Gumdrop Beanie

Gumdrop Beanie

As you can see, I'm still having fun with this yarn. But this time, I've decided to employ it for something other than fingerless gloves - a hat! And not just a hat, but a mid-weight, slouchy number with a touch of color detail for extra fun. So let's get started!

The back. Simple, but pretty.

Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Baby Micro (51% Virgin Wool, 49% Acrylic; 106 yards [97.5 meters]/25 grams); #03 Teal - two skeins (color A) & #05 Lilac - one skein (color B)

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 3, one 16" circular needle in size 4, one set of double pointed needles, also in size 4

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches 

Using color A and your size 3 circular needle, cast on 126 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Work in a * k3, p3 * ribbing until piece measures about 1.25". Then, switch to your size 4 circular needle and begin the pattern, as follows:

Rows 1 & 2: using color A, knit

Mellow Yellow Cowl

Mellow Yellow Cowl

This is a pattern I designed for my mother, who wanted something simple enough to work effortlessly while watching plot-heavy television, but also two-color with at least a bit of interest value. So while this is a simple design, it also has a certain amount of textured charm, which you can see even more clearly in the swatch I knit up with contrasting colors. It's also extremely versatile, and could be knit with larger yarns or needles, or even a saucy novelty yarn alongside a plainer one.

A swatch with two more distinct colors.
The knit/purl design breaks up the two-row stripes for
a bit of interest.

Yarn: Bristol Yarn Gallery Somerset (85% Pima Cotton, 15% Silk; 115 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); #103 Yellow (color A) - one skein & Plymouth Yarn Sweet Caroline (100% Cotton; 76 yards [69 meters]/50 grams); #32 Pale Yellow (color B) - one skein

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers or scraps of yarn to mark stitches

My two yarns, to give you perspective
on how similar they are.

Gauge: 18 - 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (my two yarns are slightly different gauges, and I'm not at all worried about it)

So let's get started! First, using color A, cast on 120 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then, knit 6 rows in a k1, p1 ribbing. And once that's done, let's move on to the pattern, which goes as follows:

Rows 1 & 2: using color B, * k2, p2; rep from *

Tons of Triangles Cowl

Tons of Triangles Cowl

As promised, the yarns from the Field of Tulips Cowl are making a reappearance (and yes, that means that those three skeins will get you both of these cowls, plus whatever I decide to make with the leftover reddish one). And for this pattern, I mixed a slipped stitch triangle pattern with an overall triangle theme for an effect that's a bit tribal and of a larger size (when folded in half, which is how I blocked it for the crease effect, the piece measures about 15" along the neck and 20" along the bottom). Overall, it's also a pretty striking knit, and reasonably fun to make as well.

Oh, the triangles!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sierra (80% Pima Cotton, 20% Merino Wool; 191 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #03 Vanilla - one skein (color A), #21 Royal Blue - one skein (color B)

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 8


Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Using color A, cast on 166 stitches, place marker, and join in round. K63, place marker, k40, place another marker, and knit until the end of the round. Then, we'll knit one set-up row, which goes as follows:

Set-up Row: using color A, p2, * k2, p1; rep from * until you are one stitch before first marker, p1; then, slip marker, and knit until second marker, slip marker, and then p2, * k2, p1 * until you are one stitch before end of round, p1

And now, let's move on to the main pattern, which is a combination of Chain of Triangles from page 100 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and another slipped stitch pattern. So let's keep going!

Spring Fling Fingerless Gloves

Spring Fling Fingerless Gloves

As you may be able to tell, I really struggled to come up with a good name for these gloves (the stitch I used, Russian Stitch, just didn't have much of a ring, or seem appropriate given the final product). I also struggled with finding the exact right way to deploy the yarn I had left over from the Little Arrowhead Fingerless Gloves, and ripped these bad boys out a couple of times before I was satisfied. Of course, the good news is that I am, indeed, satisfied with the finished product, which is a short, spring-weight fingerless glove that relies on a little bit of texture and a little bit of color for oomph. In general, I would also say that these fit a little on the large side, and if you've got super-petite hands, you're welcome to hit me up for revised pattern instructions. If your hands are small and above, however, I think one of the sizes below should work (I'm a women's small in most glove-like things, and the smaller size fits me fine).

Thumb and stuff.

Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses

Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Baby Micro (51% Virgin Wool, 49% Acrylic; 106 yards [97.5 meters]/25 grams); #05 Lilac - one skein (color A) & #04 Light Blue - one skein (color B)

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 3, one set of dpns in size 2

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 26 stitches = 4 inches 

Using your size 2 dpns and your color A yarn, cast on 55 stitches loosely (65 stitches) and distribute among your dpns as follows: 20 stitches on your first needle, 15 stitches on your second needle, and 20 stitches on your third needle (for the larger size: 20 stitches on your first needle, 25 stitches on your second needle, and 20 stitches on your third needle). Join in round, and knit 4 rows in the following ribbing row:

Field of Tulips Cowl

Field of Tulips Cowl

I grew up near the Skagit Valley in Washington, which celebrates spring each year with a tulip festival that drives all the locals nuts with insane traffic. On the plus side, of course, is the acres and acres of tulips all blooming at once, and of which this cowl reminds me. Or in other words, I designed this in what I consider to be the spirit of spring, and in tulip-y colors. It also combines two slip stitch patterns which evoke two different plowed-fields effects.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sierra (80% Pima Cotton, 20% Merino Wool; 191 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #03 Vanilla - one skein (color A), #21 Royal Blue - one skein (color B), #55 Sunset - one skein (color C)

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 8, one 16" or 20" circular needle, also in size 8


The back; the slip stitch color pattern reminds me
of the fields.

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Using color A and your 24" needle, cast on 149 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit 20, place extra marker, and then knit until you're 20 stitches from the end of the round and place another marker. Knit until the end of the round. And now, let's get right to the pattern, which you'll find below. As you'll notice, you will have fewer stitches on your needle on rows 3 and 9, which you'll add back on rows 4 and 10.

Little Arrowhead Fingerless Gloves

Little Arrowhead Fingerless Gloves
I went with Legos for the photo this time.

As promised, I'm adding more fingerless gloves to the repertoire. And the Little Arrowhead pair has a couple of nice features, including a simple repeating lace pattern and the fact that both gloves can both be knit from the same pattern (so no left hand, right hand mumbo jumbo!). I should note, however, that these gloves are designed with a slightly looser fit in mind (as you can see from the pictures, they're not stretching tight over my hands or anything), and if you want them to be snug, you may want to knit them a size smaller than I give directions for. In fact, if you have itty bitty hands and want really tight gloves, I would even recommend casting on 45 stitches instead of the small size's recommended 54, omitting those 9 stitches from your second dpn. Remember, however, that this will make your cast-on and cast-off edges tight, and you'll have to take extra care to cast on and bind off such that you can still get your hands in these bad boys!

I just realized why I like this color.
It's the same shade we painted the house!

Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses

Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Baby Micro (51% Virgin Wool, 49% Acrylic; 106 yards [97.5 meters]/25 grams); #04 Light Blue - two skeins

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 3, one set of dpns in size 2

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 26 stitches = 4 inches

Using your size 2 dpns, cast on 54 stitches loosely (63 stitches) and distribute among your dpns as follows: 18 stitches on your first needle, 18 stitches on your second needle, and 18 stitches on your third needle (for the larger size: 18 stitches on your first needle, 27 stitches on your second needle, and 18 stitches on your third needle). Join in round, and then we'll knit the following ribbing row:

Turquoise V Cowl

Turquoise V Cowl

I knew I had to have this yarn as soon as I saw it; the colors, the feel (it's a bit ropey, but soft), and the general aesthetic of the fiber really appealed to me. But then I struggled a bit more when it came to knitting it up, tearing through who-knows-how-many ideas before settling on this one. And, in short, this one relies on a cabled edge down one side of the cowl and a stitch pattern which adds and drops stitches for a very textured effect. Furthermore, while the pattern below looks complicated, that's mostly just increases and decreases along the edge; the basic stitch pattern remains the same throughout.

The stitch pattern, closer up.

Yarn: Schachnmayr Original Multicolor (100% Cotton; 98 yards [90 meters]/50 grams); color #85 Jade Mix – two skeins

Needles: Straight needles in size 7, cable needle (cn) or double-pointed needle for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker 

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! First, let's define some terminology as follows:

front cross (fc): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, p3, k2 from cn

back cross (bc): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k2, p3 from cn

Now, cast on 14 stitches loosely, and knit the following row: p2, place marker, k4, p4, k4. Then, we’ll repeat a few set-up rows to get the piece started. Or in our pattern notation,

Set-up Rows 1 & 3 (right side): p4, k4, p4, slip marker, knit until one stitch before end of row, yo, k1

Set-up Rows 2 & 4: purl until marker, slip marker, k4, p4, k4 

Lucina Shell Cowl

Lucina Shell Cowl

In my experience, at least half of making a nice pattern is finding the right blend of yarn and design. And with these particular yarns - the grey one is textured, and the yellow one is glossy smooth - I wasn't quite sure if I could pull off a mixed design. But then I found this gathered stitch pattern, which adds stitches on rows 1, 3, and 5 and then pulls them all together in row 7, and I thought that it was just the right combination of whimsy and texture to make the yarn pop.

The pattern. Well, I didn't do a very good job of
straightening it out but I think you get the point...

Yarn: Bristol Yarn Gallery Bradford (97% Pima Cotton, 3% Nylon; 120 yards [110 meters]/50 grams); #112 Mirage (color A) - one skein & Bristol Yarn Gallery Somerset (85% Pima Cotton, 15% Silk; 115 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); #103 Yellow (color B) - one skein

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers or scraps of yarn to mark stitches

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Using color A, cast on 130 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Purl 14, place extra marker, and then purl until you have 14 stitches left in round, and place another marker. Purl till the end of the round. And now, let's begin the main pattern, which is Lucina Shell from page 226 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round and stripes (and blended with a slipped stitch pattern). So here goes!

American Beauty Hat

American Beauty Hat

It may be spring in most of the country, but in my neck of the woods, we're still in single-digits, driving down roads rutted with ice. Of course, I think that this three-color, slipped stitch hat will transition nicely to warmer temperatures as well, and hopefully now that I've made it for my husband, that's exactly what we'll get. Or at least his ears will stay warm...

Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Juvel (100% New Wool; 116 yards [106 meters]/50 grams); #575 Light Moss - one skein (color A), #2 Medium Grey Heather - one skein (color B), #500 Mottled Bark - one skein (color C)

I couldn't bring myself to do a boring back -
hit me up if you want one, though, and I'll come up
with something.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 4, one 16" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches on size 6 needles

Using your size 4 circular needle and your color A yarn, cast on 116 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit 1.5" in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, and then switch to your size 7 needle and knit one row. Next, we'll begin the pattern, which is American Beauty Tweed from page 39 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. So here goes!

Row 1: using color B, * slip 2 with yarn in back, k2; rep from *

Cloverleaf Eyelet Fingerless Gloves

Cloverleaf Eyelet Fingerless Gloves

I recently received a lovely email suggesting that I make a pair of lacy, fingerless gloves. And I was immediately on board - I've been plotting fingerless gloves for a while now, other projects just keep getting in the way. Unfortunately, I didn't have any good yarn for a particularly lacy project, so I ended up with these kind of starter-lace gloves instead, which use a little bit of eyeletted ribbing, but are a fairly straightforward pattern. Now that I've patterned my first pair, however, expect to see more in the near future - and of a lacier variety!

The pattern. A cloverleaf, if you look closely.

Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses

Yarn: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #821 Daffodil – one skein (both sizes)

Needles: one set of double-pointed needles in size 6, one set of double-pointed needles in size 4

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches on size 6 needles

First and foremost: since these fingerless gloves have a pattern that's intended to be in different places on the two gloves (left of the thumb on the left side, right of the thumb on the right), we'll have to knit the right and left gloves with slightly different patterns. So let's begin with the left, and when that bad boy's done, we'll move on to the right!

Porcelain Moon Cowl

Porcelain Moon Cowl

Okay, I know the name for this one is goofy. But the design reminds me of something between fine china and Sailor Moon, and I don't have a name for the stitch, so I got stuck. And, either way, it's a closer-fitting, quick-knitting cowl that gets a bit of a different look from the faux-bow gather of the front.

Yarn: Classic Elite Yarns Solstice (70% Organic Cotton, 30% Wool; 100 yards [91 meters]/50 grams); #2346 Faded Teal – one skein (color A) & Skacel Urban Silk (80% Silk, 20% Cotton; 93 yards [85 meters]/50 grams); #01 Cream – one skein (color B)

Needles: One 16" or 20" circular needle in size 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches (roughly - my two skeins are slightly different gauges, but I'm not worrying about it)

Using color A, cast on 117 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Next, purl 9, place marker, and purl until you're 9 stitches from the end of the round. Place a second marker, and purl until you reach the end of the round. Purl two more rows, slipping additional markers when you come to them. And now, it's time to begin the pattern, which goes as follows:

Row 1: using color A, knit until two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, and knit until second marker. Then, slip marker, ssk, and knit til end of round

Flemish Block Cowl

Flemish Block Cowl

As soon as I saw this yarn, I was in love. After all, it's ridiculously soft, delightful to knit, and a pretty pink color to boot (well, my four-year-old says it's "too pink", but he also thinks racquetball is called "rocketball," so I'm not giving him too much credit). Anyway, the challenge I had after buying this yarn was finding a decent way to knit it up. And after rejecting not one, but TWO two-color designs and ripping out false starts at least four times, I came up with this voluminous and luxuriously soft spring knit, that could also be made a few inches shorter if you wanted something with a little less bulk around the neck. But let's get on to the pattern, eh?

The Flemish Blocks

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pure Alpaca (100% Baby Alpaca; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3055 Strawberries & Cream – one skein 

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 119 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then, knit one row in a * k1, p1 * pattern, placing one marker after you've worked 37 stitches, and the next marker 45 stitches later (so this marker should be 37 stitches from the end of the round) (and yes, since you're knitting a * k1, p1 * pattern, you will have two knit stitches together on either side of the round marker, since we have an odd number of stitches). Purl one row, and then complete another * k1, p1 * row like the first, slipping extra markers when you come to them on both rows. Then we'll go straight to the pattern, which is a combination of Flemish Block Lace from page 270 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and a simple lace pattern. So let's get started!

Stripe and Spot Cowl

Stripe and Spot Cowl

At some point, I think I made an unconscious decision to knit something for everyone who works at my kids' preschool. And this particular piece is intended for a certain Miss Mary, who requested something a little bit warm and a little bit fun. So here's what I came up with - a nice weight for our frosty spring!

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool Worsted (100% Pure New Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #202 Aran – one skein (color A), Cascade 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams) #1942 Mint - one skein (color B), and #1960 Pacific - one skein (color C)

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Using color A, cast on 120 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit one row in a * k1, p1 * pattern, placing one extra marker after working 57 stitches, and another extra marker 5 stitches away from that (so the first marker should be 57 stitches from the beginning of the round and the second marker should be 58 stitches from the end of the round). On your next row, use a * p1, k1 * pattern, slipping extra markers when you reach them, and then knit one more row like your first, also slipping the markers (so you'll have three rows of seed stitch). Then we'll switch to our pattern, which is a total bastardization of Stripe and Spot Pattern from page 56 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Kids' Dice Check Balaclava

Kids' Dice Check Balaclava

So I'll be honest; I'm not sure I would have ever come up with the idea to knit a kids' balaclava on my own. But after a special request for a simple but attractive kids' piece, I came up with this design. And while it's not quite as "simple" as I originally intended, I do think that the three-color pattern I've come up with is striking, and easier to make than it looks, since the most complex thing you'll need to know how to do to make it is pick up stitches. However, as this pattern has more instructions than many of the ones I post, I highly recommend reading through it before you begin, so you know where you're going.

Sizes: Ages 18 months - 3 years (4 - 7 years)

The top. With racing stripe.

Yarn: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #1924 Midnight Heather – one skein (color A), #1942 Mint - one skein (color B), and #821 Daffodil - one skein (color C) (all sizes)

Needles: Two circular needles in size 6, one of them 16", and one of them 24" or longer; another 16" circular needle in size 5

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 stitch markers, stitch holder

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 6 needles

Before we get to the pattern, let me outline how the thing is constructed. First, then, we'll knit a strip which will end up being the top of the head, and then we'll pick up stitches along both sides of the strip, to create the sides and back of the hood. Next, once we've knit the entire head-covering part, we'll join the thing in a round and knit the neck portion. Lastly, we'll pick up stitches around the face hole to create a ribbing. And now that we know where we're going with this thing, let's get started!

Honeycomb Legwarmers

Honeycomb Legwarmers

So I'm going to be honest, here; the main reason I knit these legwarmers in these yarns is because I had no idea what else to do with them. The accent yarn is a chunky acrylic-based variegated, which has not only a color change, but is also always two colors at any given time. And the main color yarn is mostly-white, but has occasional flecks of black. Long story short, I was worried that knitting either of them up plain would swallow the pattern. And, while I may be delusional, I think that the slipped stitch, ribbing pattern I've developed here shows off both yarns, while also creating a warm, lofty ribbing that's well suited to a legwarmer.

I even made two!

Sizes: I recommend sizing these close to the biggest part of your calf (it's your choice whether you'd like them to turn out tighter or looser). Therefore, I will give sizing instructions for a calf of roughly 12" (14", 16"), and you can scale up or down by roughly 2" by casting on more or less stitches in sets of 9. You can also change your needle gauge for more incremental variations in size.

Yarn: Lana Gatto Bon Bon (56% Wool, 24% Acrylic, 20% Nylon; 126 yards [115 meters]/50 grams); #5589 White Grey - 2 skeins (color A) & Schachenmayr Original Boston Style (42% Acrylic, 39% Polyester, 19% Wool; 66 yards [60 meters]/50 grams); #599 Black - 2 skeins (color B)

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 10.5

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 15 stitches = 4 inches

Cable Chevron Hat

Cable Chevron Hat

The inspiration for this hat was simple: our neighbors keep blowing the snow out of our driveway, and my husband suffers from a monumental guilt complex about it. So he asked me to make a hat for the man across the street, presumably to keep his head warm while he's taking care of our snow... 

Update 12/24/2014: I have had a few comments that this hat has ended up on the small side, when finished. As a cabled hat worked in large yarn, it will definitely get a bit tighter than gauge. Therefore, I highly recommending working it on size US 11 needles if you're making it for a large head, and to double-check gauge! Furthermore, this yarn is very sturdy and chunky, and doesn't compress much. If you're working with a fluffy fiber, you may need even larger needles to produce the correct result. Or, you could simply cast on 12 extra stitches, for a total of 84 rather than 72. This modification will change the finished appearance of this hat very little :)

Yarn: Berroco Blackstone Tweed Chunky (65% Wool, 25% Superkid Mohair, 10% Angora Rabbit Hair; 60 yards [55 meters]/50 grams); #6656 Narragansett - 2 skeins

The back. Pretty, no? (in a manly way of course)

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one 16" circular needle in size 10.5, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10.5, and a cable needle (cn) or double-pointed needle for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or scrap yarn to mark row

Gauge: 13 stitches = 4 inches

Using your size 9 needle, cast on 72 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit six rows in a k2, p2 ribbing, and then switch to your size 10.5 circular needle. Now, we'll get started on the main pattern, which is Cable Chevron from page 290 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. And it goes like so:

Diagonal Weave Cowl

Diagonal Weave Cowl

So here's the deal; I was so inspired by the yarn-mixing of my Little Bowknot Hat that I finally allowed myself to buy another one of the loner skeins of clearance yarn I've been dying for (in this case, the Berroco Versa, which is a light chunky-weight cotton acrylic blend that comes in sort of a knit tube, if you're looking for something similar). And I have to admit that I've very pleased with the results of this pattern, especially considering how little yarn I used, and how fun it was to knit. Worked with an asymmetrical line of eyelets, then, the Diagonal Weave Cowl is a great opportunity to combine a couple of stash skeins into a striking project.

A close-up of the weave pattern itself.

Yarn: Schachenmayr Ragge Yarn (70% New Wool, 30% Polyamide; 87 yards [80 meters]/50 grams); #102 Cream (color A) - one skein & Berroco Versa (50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic; 81 yards [75 meters]/50 grams); #3671 Travertine (color B) - one skein

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 8, and one 24" circular needle in size 10

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers or scraps of yarn to mark stitches

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches

So let's do this! Using color A (for us, the cream) and your size 8 circular needle, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit 3 rows in a k2, p2 ribbing, placing your additional stitch marker after you've worked 49 stitches. Slip marker when you come to it during your ribbing rows, and transfer piece to your size 10 needle when you're finished with this. Knit one row around, still slipping extra marker when you come to it.

Kids' Blue Ice Beanie

Kids' Blue Ice Beanie. Taken while my husband was removing a certain
scratchy jammy tag.

Why did I name this hat the Blue Ice Beanie? Well, definitely not because I was inspired by one of the singles off of indie pop group Shout Out Louds' 2013 release. Whatever I named it for, however, I knit the toddler version of this hat with the yarn I had left over from the Little Bowknot Hat, and it's another medium-weight, springy hat. I also recommend that you knit it on smaller needles than I did if you've got a one-year-old in mind (I knit the toddler version on size 7s, and you could probably go down to size 4 - 5 for a 1-year-old, gauging down your ribbed band as well). Anyway, let's get started!

Sizes: Toddler (Youth) - Toddler is roughly ages 1 - 3, and Youth is roughly ages 4 - 10

A clearer picture of the pattern.

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn VITA (85% Recycled Cotton, 15% Recycled Cashmere; 136 yards [124 meters]/50 grams); #120 Blue Mist (color A) - one skein & Plymouth Yarn Grass (65% Cotton, 35% Hemp; 115 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); #9088 Multi (color B)

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size 5, one 16" circular needle in size 7, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

And now that we've gotten the details out of the way, let's get to the pattern. Using color A and your size 5 circular needle, cast on 90 (96) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Knit 3/4" (1 1/2") in a k1, p1 ribbing and then switch to your size 7 needle and knit one row around. And then it's time to begin the main pattern, which goes like so:

Little Bowknot Hat

Little Bowknot Hat

Ordinarily, I tend to think that my yarns need to match in any given project; I'm much less likely to pick up two completely different skeins in different colors than I am to get two different shades of the exact same yarn. When I saw the gray-ish yarn that I used in this pattern, however, there was only one skein left, and it was on closeout so I knew there would never be more. So I decided to go out on a limb and knit it with a completely different yarn. And luckily, the ropiness of the gray yarn and the softness of the blue created even more texture in this mid-weight, springtime hat, and I ended up loving the results. Or in other words, this is a perfect pattern for a couple of skeins of dk-weight stash yarn that you've never quite figured out what to do with before.

The little bowknots, close up.

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn VITA (85% Recycled Cotton, 15% Recycled Cashmere; 136 yards [124 meters]/50 grams); #120 Blue Mist (color A) - one skein & Plymouth Yarn Grass (65% Cotton, 35% Hemp; 115 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); #9088 Multi (color B) - one skein

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size 5, one 16" circular needle in size 7, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

Using color A and your size 5 circular needle, cast on 110 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Knit 1 inch in a k1, p1 ribbing, and then switch to your size 7 needle and knit one row around. Switch to color B, and knit one more row around. And now that these rows are complete, let's move on to the main pattern, which is a small, two-color adaptation of Bowknot Stitch from page 133 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. So let's get started!

Star Stitch Cowl

Star Stitch Cowl

So, my local yarn store is having a huge sale on a bunch of discontinued yarns, which is great because some of them are super nice and cheap, and terrible because I know that they won't be available for long. However, the yarn I chose for this piece has a texture that I think would be best replicated by Berroco Comfort DK, if you're looking to duplicate the look and texture of this piece but can't find the yarn. And I'm sure this cowl would also be lovely in any number of cottons, linens, bamboos, acrylics or wools, if the fancy strikes you. Either way, let's get started.

The eyelet design of the front panel

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn VITA (85% Recycled Cotton, 15% Recycled Cashmere; 136 yards [124 meters]/50 grams); #301 Grey (color A) - one skein & #117 Pink Carnation (color B) - 1 skein

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, five stitch markers or scraps of yarn to mark stitches

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches 

Please note: I have updated these instructions as of 2/03/14 for clarity.

Using color A, cast on 123 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Purl 4 rows, placing one of your two additional stitch markers after 60 stitches, and your second additional marker after 63 (so these two markers will be three stitches apart, and centered in middle of piece). Slip stitch markers when you come to them during these purl rows. And once they're done, it's time to begin the pattern, which is Two-Color Star Stitch from page 92 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Row 1: using color B, knit until first stitch marker; slip marker, k1, yo, knit until you're one stitch before next stitch marker, yo, k1, slip marker, knit until end of row

Cat's Eye Cowl

Cat's Eye Cowl

I know this yarn is discontinued, but I loved the Arrowhead Lace Cowl I knit out of it so much that I couldn't resist picking up another couple of skeins when I saw it in the store again. Of course, this voluminously draped cowl would look just as nice in another worsted-weight cotton or linen or bamboo or whatnot, and knits up relatively quickly, even with the very wide middle panel (the width is what gives it that drape).

The back

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Sweet Caroline (100% Cotton; 76 yards [69 meters]/50 grams); #32 Pale Yellow - two to three skeins (I squeaked by with two, but had about 8 inches of yarn left at the end)

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! Begin by casting on 8 stitches. Then, we'll go to the set-up pattern, which starts as follows (and whose two rows we'll knit multiple times, until we've increased our stitch count from 8 to 31):

Set-up Row 1 (right side): k1, yo, knit until there are three stitches left in row; p1, k1, p1

Striped for Spring Cowl

Striped for Spring Cowl

Considering this is the... fourth? cowl I've knit in this yarn, you've probably gotten the impression that I dig me some Ultra Pima. And I do. Which is why I thought it would be super fun to knit a wide color change piece with some nice drape. And I have to say, I like the way it turned out... 

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3777 African Violet - 1 skein (Color A), #3705 Heathered Pansy - 1 skein (Color B)

The back.

Needles: One 32" circular needle in size 6, one 24" circular needle, also in size 6

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers or yarn scraps to mark stitches

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using your 32" circular needle and whichever color you've designated as color A (for us, it's African Violet), cast on 210 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then, purl four rows, placing one marker after 35 stitches, and the second marker when you're 35 stitches away from your row marker on the other side. For now, slip both extra markers when you come to them.

Now that the set-up is complete, let's move on to the pattern. And it goes as follows:

Starry Night Cowl

Starry Night Cowl

I fell in love with this yarn as soon as I touched it; the bamboo and superwash wool give it a very nice feel, and it knits up really nicely, giving the finished fabric a beautiful drape. And as far as my design goes, I started with a cables and lace pattern and then dropped the cables towards the top, so it would drape more gently around the neck. Ultimately, I'm sure a solid color would show off the pattern better than this variegated one does, but this delicate cowl still feels super-good on.

The shoulder. Here, you can see the transition
of the cable into the "starry night" eyelets
above it.

Yarn: Crystal Palace Yarns Panda Superwash (51% Bamboo, 39% Superwash Wool, 10% Nylon; 186 yards [172 meters]/50 grams); #2004 Mint Print - 2 skeins

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 2, cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle (dpn) for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle and 3 stitch markers, or scraps of yarn to mark your stitches (this is probably the better option, given the gauge)

Gauge: 31 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's get started! First, cast on 248 stitches loosely, place marker or yarn scrap, and join in round. Then, knit 24, place another marker, and knit until you have 24 stitches left in your row and place another. Finish the row knitting. And before we get started on the main pattern, let's complete the following rows:

Row 1: purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them

Row 2: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them

Heather's Hat

Heather's Hat

My sister is currently visiting for the weekend (possibly longer, if my children successfully execute their plan to lock her in the closet so she has to play with them indefinitely), so I thought I might knit her a hat. And after seeing something similar-ish out and getting inspired, I came up with this simple but very attractive slipped-stitch hat, knit in a textured cotton that I already had on hand. Furthermore, while I think you could reduce the hat's texture by blocking it (the tension of the slipped stitch stripes causes the knit-only portions to bulge), I kind of think the rippling is one of the hat's best features. Whatever you decide to do with yours, however, here's the pattern!

From ze back.

Yarn: Queensland Collection Pima Fresca (100% Pima Cotton; 145.4 yards [133 meters]/100 grams); #20 Limestone - 1 skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 8, one 16" circular needle in size US , and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 8

Notions: tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using your size 6 circular needle, cast on 96 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Knit 5 rows around, and then switch to your size 8 circular needle. And now, let's start on the pattern! Also, remember to keep your yarn loose when you slip stitches; otherwise, your slipped-stitch stripes will close up.

Row 1: * slip 4 stitches with yarn in front, k8; rep from *

Slipped Cable Hat

Slipped Cable Hat

With the last couple of posts (specifically, the North Star Hat and the Basket Tweed Hat), I've been developing three color change hat patterns which can all be knit with the same three skeins of yarn (so, you know, you can buy three skeins and then make three hats, all with three colors!). So here's the last one, and, perhaps, the most attractive...

The finishing

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6167 Dewberry - 1 skein, #6123 Blush - 1 skein, and #6185 Tide Pool - skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 10, and one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using your circular needle and your main color (in our case, #6167 Dewberry), cast on 80 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit one set-up row as follows:

Set-up Row 1: * k6, p2; rep from *

And now we'll start the pattern on this one, which is Slipped Cable Rib from page 106 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. And here it is: