River Rush Slouch Hat

River Rush Slouch Hat
size Adult Large (hence the extra slouch
on Hedwig)

I wish I had a snappy story about this hat, but I really don't; basically, I designed it as a nice unisex number in order to give it away in a gift exchange, but didn't because I (rather stupidly!) made an Adult Large and then wondered if it would be too large for a woman of average head size, if a woman of average head size were to receive it, and then descended into a morass of self-doubt, etc etc etc. So now it lives in an IKEA bag in my closet, ready to be sent out to a new recipient as soon as I build up the courage to revisit the post office (my last trip was an unmitigated disaster; this mailing-stuff-in-German stuff is hard, even if my German is now approaching kindergarten level). Oh yeah, but my husband DID pick out the yarn, so that was very nice of him!!!

Sizes: Toddler (Child; Teen/Adult Small; Adult Medium; Adult Large)

Yarn: Lana Grossa Alpaca Peru 100 (100% Alpaca; 109 yards [100 meters]/50 grams); #109 Grège - 1 skein (1-2 skeins; 2 skeins; 2 skeins; 2 skeins)

A closer look at the pattern.
And Hedwig.
She looks pensive, no?

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 8, one 16" circular needle in size US 9, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 9

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 9 needles

So let's make a hat! Using your size US 8 needle, then, cast on 76 (84; 92; 100; 108) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * p2, k2; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1.5" (2"; 2"; 2"; 2") and transfer work to your size US 9 needle. Then we'll begin our main pattern, as follows. To do this, we'll need the following terminology (and please notice I've embedded a video of this technique below the description as well!):

Reflecting Pool Cowl

Reflecting Pool Cowl

There's no denying it: this is one of those yarns that I bought because my raccoon brain demanded it (okay fine, maybe raccoon isn't accurate - it's not shiny although it's colorful. You get what I mean). And, as always with these yarns, as soon as I got it home I wondered what to do with it - with a variegated I prefer a pattern that's not too plain but that also doesn't get eaten by the colors of the fiber, after all. Luckily it didn't take long before I came up with this cable and openwork design, which shows off both the texture of the fabric and the beauty of the yarn. And, as a side note, I think it would also work well on larger needles (US 8 or even larger!) if you want a more drapey look. :)

Yarn: Lang Yarns Riva (52% Cotton, 48% Acrylic; 115 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); #0079 - 2 skeins

A look at the cable and the
openwork design.

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 6 (4.0 mm), cable needle (cn) or dpn for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 19 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette, 22 stitches = 4 inches in pattern

Okay, let's make a cowl! First, then, cast on 110 stitches loosely (or 121, 132, or any multiple of 11 if you'd like a looser-fitting cowl - this one clocks in at only 20" around unstretched), place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a combination of Vandyke Faggoting from page 187 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns and a basic chain cable, as follows. You'll need the following notation to continue. Remember you can always cable without a cable needle, if you'd like.

back cross (bc): transfer next 2 stitches to your cn and hold in back; k2, k2 from cn

front cross (fc): transfer next 2 stitches to your cn and hold in front; k2, k2 from cn

Reverb Shawl

Reverb Shawl

First off, I hate to admit how long I've been working on this shawl, because, to be quite honest, I can no longer even remember when I started (nevertheless, I am 98% sure it was last year). And I know that may not sound like *that* long to some of you with years-old WIPs sitting around in your drawers, but I'm one of those people who loses steam VERY EASILY the minute I set something down, and will often literally throw out a project to ease the psychic burden of staring at it, unfinished, for too long (but I swear I've gotten better about this as I get older!!! really, it's true!!!). Anyway, what was my point? I have no idea, but I did make a shawl! And quite a shawl it is - made with worsted weight so it doesn't work up too slowly, the Reverb Shawl also combines twisted stitches and mesh for some interesting textural detail. So make one of your own, if you want! I will send lots of good energy your way so you don't get bogged down halfway through. :)

Update: As of April 9, 2020, I am also including instructions to make this pattern in Russian in a PDF in my Ravelry page (I tried to add them here too, but my site was very angry about mixing English and Russian). Many thanks to Galina Kostikova for the translation!!! :)

Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted (100% Merino Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #193 Jacinto - 2 skeins

Another look at the pattern

Needles: One 32" or longer circular needle in size US 7
 
Notions: Tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's make a shawl! Begin by casting on 3 stitches loosely, and then working 8 rows in garter stitch to create a tab. Then, without turning work, yarn over (yo) twice, pick up 1 stitch about 1/3rd of the way down along the edge of the tab, (yo) twice again, pick up 1 stitch roughly 2/3rds of the way down the edge of the tab, and (yo) twice again. Complete tab by picking up 3 stitches along cast-on edge; you should now have stitches coming from 3 sides of the tab - 3 along original working edge - 8 along the side (counting each double yo as 2 stitches), and 3 along the cast-on edge. Then, work a few set-up rows as follows. Oh, and you'll need the following terminology, as well:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

Pink Ponytail Hat

Pink Ponytail Hat

A few of you have been asking for a ponytail/messy bun hat, and I'll admit there are two reasons why I haven't jumped on the trend. #1 - Hedwig (my fake head) looks absolutely RIDICULOUS when I try to put her lovely hair in any kind of updo, which means that I have to model any version of this hat myself. Not exactly my favorite activity. And #2 - when one designs these kinds of hats, one doesn't get to design the very best part - the crown. Even in the face of this sad, crownless world, though, when I got a request to do a ponytail hat with a pattern similar to the Cellular Stitch Kids' Poncho, I put on my big girl pants and got it done. Because I couldn't make a crown, however, I had to get a bit fancier nearer to the face. But if you want to make this hat with the Cellular Stitch and that stitch alone (you can get a better view of it in the picture below - it's the top part, with the holes), simply knit the ribbing and then knit rows 26 - 29 on repeat until your hat measures roughly 6" and you've just finished row 29, and then proceed with the remaining rows as written.

Yarn: Sommer Merino 85 (100% Superwash Wool; 96 yards [85 meters]/50 grams); #867 - 2 skeins

A better view of the back.
And my small, sad little ponytail.

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 6, one 16" circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's make one of these hats, shall we? Using your size US 6 circular needle, cast on 90 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work the following ribbing:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until piece measures roughly 2". Transfer work to your size US 8 circular needle, and then we'll work a variation on the Wide Leaf Border from page 342 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns that transitions into the Cellular Stitch. I wish I had better news for you at this point, but sadly you'll have to follow the pattern for every single row of this hat, as follows:

Rows 1 & 2: knit

Row 3:* k5, k2tog, (k1, yo, k1) in next stitch, ssk, k5 *

Row 4: * p5, k5, p5 *

Four Winds Hat

Four Winds Hat

Okay, I should begin any description of this hat with an admission: that I bought the yarn for my husband, and originally intended to design this bad boy for him. Then, however, the yarn told me that it didn't want to belong to him, it wanted to belong to me instead. And then it said that this was the form that it dreamed of taking...

... sure, I'm exaggerating a bit. Truly, though, this design was 100% inspired by the fiber, and creates a very plush, delicious hat because of the twisted stitch pattern. Of course, since ALL of the stitches are twisted every other row it's a tad annoying to work, but I think the end result is definitely worth it!

Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted (100% Merino Wool; 210 yards [191 meters]/100 grams); #56 Olive - one skein 

A closer look at the stitch pattern and the
crown.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 6, one 16" circular needle in size US 9, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 9

Notions: Tapestry needle, four stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 8 needles (I'm giving you package gauge in case you're using a substitute yarn)

Okay, so let's make a hat! To start with, then, using your size US 6 needle, cast on 100 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then, we'll knit the following marker placement row:

Marker Placement Row: (k1, [p1, k1] x 12, place marker) three times; then, k1, * p1, k1; rep from * until you reach the end of the row

Knit this marker placement row. Then we'll work our ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row: (k1, * p1, k1; rep from * until you reach next marker, slip marker) four times

Knit this ribbing row until piece measures just over 2". Then, transfer work to your size US 9 circular needle, and continue to work as follows. Notice that you'll need the following terminology to continue (you can find videos below too!):

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

Gathered Rib Scarf

Gathered Rib Scarf

Okay, I wish I had a good story behind this scarf, but I don't. Basically, I've just been on kind of a variegated yarn kick lately, in part because I find it super difficult to find good patterns for but I love buying it, so... you do the math! Someone's gotta come up with some stuff, right? Anyway, I designed this particular scarf to be on the shorter side, since I only had 2 skeins of yarn. However, it would look very nice if you have a bit more yardage to work with, also, or even in a solid color yarn! 

Yarn: Lana Grossa Cinque Multi (60% Virgin Wool, 40% Polyacrylic; 164 yards [150 meters]/50 grams); #013 - two to three skeins

A better look at the rib,
and the gathering. See how it
works with the variegation???

Needles: Straight needles in size US 6

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

And now that we've got all of that covered, let's make a scarf! To begin with, then cast on 50 stitches loosely. Then, we'll work as follows:

Rows 1, 3, 5, & 7 (wrong side): slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back (sl1 wyib), k1, (p6, k4) four times, p6, k2

Rows 2, 4, & 6: slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front (sl1 wyif), p1, (k6, p4) four times, k6, p2

Row 8: sl1 wyif, p1, (k2tog through back loops [k2tog-tbl], k2, k2tog, p4) four times, k2tog-tbl, k2, k2tog, p2

True Blue Shawlette

True Blue Shawlette

On most occasions, I try to keep my knitting fairly seasonal (or representative of the months to come). I'm sure that's why I bought this yarn and started this shawlette months ago, only to get hung up by my uncooperative forearms. Now that I've finally finished the piece, though, we should all just pretend it's summer again, and that the cold breeze I felt this afternoon was actually as balmy as July's winds. Or not, in which case you can file this pattern away for next year, when you've got 300+ yards of a cotton-, silk-, linen-, or bamboo-based fiber and a hankering for a short shawl (or even a big one, if you want to keep working and you've got enough yarn!).

Yarn: Lana Grossa 365 Cotone (88% Cotton, 12% Polyamide; 153 yards [150 meters]/50 grams); #026 Türkisgrün - two skeins

A better look at the pattern.
Basically, just lace and garter stitch!

Needles: One 32" or longer circular needle in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's make a little shawl thing! And in case I wasn't clear enough before, this pattern is good for those occasions when you're not sure if you've got enough yarn or not; since it's designed from the rounded bottom up, it's completely scalable in size - make it small if you've only got 300 yards, or bigger with more. No matter how much yarn you've got, however, you'll begin by casting on 3 stitches loosely, and then working 8 rows in garter stitch to create a tab of sorts. Then, without turning work, yarn over (yo) twice, pick up 1 stitch about 1/3rd of the way down along the edge of the tab, (yo) twice again, pick up 1 stitch roughly 2/3rds of the way down the edge of the tab, and (yo) twice again. Complete tab by picking up 3 stitches along cast-on edge; you should now have stitches coming from 3 sides of the tab - 3 along original working edge - 8 along the side (counting each double yo as 2 stitches), and 3 along the cast-on edge. Then, work a few set-up rows as follows:

Bürkliplatz Cowl

Bürkliplatz Cowl

I've been in Zürich about three weeks now, which has proven to be enough time to both find my favorite grocery store (I love you Central Coop!), and buy and knit up my first Swiss yarn (fine, the yarn is actually Italian. WHAT DO YOU PEOPLE WANT FROM ME??!?!?!). And although I had a myriad of projects to choose from, I went for something that we NEED. Namely, a cowl for my poor freezing husband, since I wouldn't let him move with his last one. It's also my first project that's directly inspired by the city, and the large architectural stones that make up so many of Zürich's buildings. Indeed, that's what the name represents - Bürkliplatz is the tram stop that I got off on to take the picture below, and also near the location at which a nice young woman gave me a puzzled look when she saw me taking a picture of a wall.

Yarn: Sommer Merino 85 (100% Superwash Wool; 93 yards [85 meters]/50 grams); # 131 Charcoal (I made up that color name!) - two skeins

A closer view of the pattern.
Blocked aggressively, the blocks would stretch into
bricks and the architectural inspiration would be more
defined.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 8 (4.5 mm)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches

And now that we've taken care of that, let's make a cowl! First, then, cast on 90 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll move right to the main pattern, which you'll find right after the wall picture that represents the look I was going for with this cowl.