Build-Your-Own DK Weight Hat |
I designed this pattern with one goal in mind; namely, that it could be the first in-the-round project for a beginning knitter who had learned how to knit and purl but not much else. Or in other words, it's supposed to be a tutorial. Of course, you don't have to be a beginning knitter to enjoy it - with a basic design like this, there's all sorts of customization you can add. Throw in stripes or a stitch pattern with a 2-, 4-, or 8-stitch repeat, and you can turn this basic little hat into another beast entirely! Or, add a few inches and omit the knit rows in the decrease and you'll have a gathered crown. And add a few extra inches to THAT and it's slouchy as well!!!!
Oh, and another thing, guys - this is my first tutorial style pattern. So if I seem to be missing an instruction, please let me know! We can make it perfect together. :)
Sizes: 12 Months (Toddler; Child; Teen/Small Adult; Large Adult)
A closer view of the crown. |
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5; one 16" circular needle in size US 6, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 6
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches on size 6 needles
Let's make a hat, shall we? First, a note about the sizing. As with virtually any sized knitting pattern, I will give directions in the same order as the sizes appear above. If you're making an adult small, for instance, you'll always use the direction second from the end of the line (or in other words, you'll be casting on 112 stitches here in a moment). My only tip with this direction is that it can be useful to print your pattern and highlight the correct sizes if you're knitting something with a lot of them - otherwise, the numbers can run together. So go ahead and do that if need be. And, once you're done, it's time to get down to business!
So, using your size 5 circular needle, cast on 88 (96; 104; 112; 120) stitches using a long tail cast on, place marker, and join in round (so, to be totally clear on the sizing, 12 month = 88 stitch cast on, toddler = 96 stitch cast on, child = 104 stitch cast on, adult small = 112 stitch cast on, adult large = 120 stitch cast on). Questions about either of these steps? Never fear. Here's a guide to the long tail cast on:
And here's some info regarding joining your piece in the round:
Anyway, once you've gotten your cast on done and your knitting joined in the round, we're going to make some ribbing, which you'll find below. If you're new to knitting patterns, this is also very standard terminology. Your row will be named or numbered, and then you'll get instructions in one of two ways: without *'s, and with a specific instruction for each stitch, or with *'s, which indicate that the instruction between the *'s should be repeated over and over until you reach the end of your row or round. Here, we're using rounds, since we're knitting in a circle, and we're repeating instructions, because I don't dislike you enough to give you a pattern without any repeats. :) So we'll continue like so:
Ribbing Row: * k2, p2; rep from *
Knit this ribbing row until piece measures 3" (3.5"; 4"; 4.5"; 5"). Since I'm making the small adult size, this step looks like this for me:
See? 4.5", on the dot! |
And now I'm at 8.25"! |
Now that we're up to speed on how to make our k2togs and ssks, let's discuss the crown decreases for this pattern. As you may have noticed, each size of this pattern is 8 stitches larger than the size before it (so the adult large has 8 more stitches than the adult small, which has 8 more stitches than the child, etc). I have also written the decrease to reduce the hat by 8 stitches each row. Therefore, the adult large will contain the same number of stitches as the adult small after your first decrease row. Long story short(ish), this means that you will be beginning the decreases on a different row for each size - if you're making the child size, obviously you can skip the four decrease rows that contain more stitches than your hat ever had. So, with that in mind, when you start your decrease, you'll begin on Decrease Row 9 (Decrease Row 7; Decrease Row 5; Decrease Row 3; Decrease Row 1). Furthermore, we're going to switch to our dpns after Decrease Row 8 (you'll find more directions below). If you're making the 12 month size, you'll notice that this happens before you even knit your first decrease row. But enough talking - let's begin our decreases below.
Decrease Row 1: * k13, k2tog, ssk, k13; rep from * (112 stitches) (size adult large only)
Decrease Row 2: knit (size adult large only)
Decrease Row 3: * k12, k2tog, ssk, k12; rep from * (104 stitches) (sizes adult large and adult small only)
Decrease Row 4: knit (sizes adult large and adult small only)
Decrease Row 5: * k11, k2tog, ssk, k11; rep from * (96 stitches) (sizes adult large, adult small, and child only)
Decrease Row 6: knit (sizes adult large, adult small, and child only)
Decrease Row 7: * k10, k2tog, ssk, k10; rep from * (88 stitches) (sizes adult large, adult small, child, and toddler only)
Decrease Row 8: knit (sizes adult large, adult small, child, and toddler only)
No matter which size you're knitting, you're going to want to transfer your work to your size 6 double pointed needles at this point. I made a really cool video for the transfer part, but my husband had his thumb over the audio so it sounded like I was shouting from underwater and I could only recover the second half of the video. To summarize what you missed, then, here's what I said: dpns come in packages of five, and you can knit using either three or four needles to hold your work. I think using three is slightly easier, but for a hat like this, which decreases in four places, four needles makes more sense. In the future, when you're knitting a new pattern, you'll probably want to look at said pattern in order to figure out whether it's best to use 3 or 4.
Since we're working on this pattern, though, we're going to transfer our work to four dpns, with 22 stitches on each needle (all sizes). If you need a refresher in dpn knitting, you can watch the second half of said video, below. And yes, I'm well aware that I shouldn't be allowed anywhere NEAR a video camera. I tried to get my six year old to sub in for me, but he just staged a mini sword fight with the needles.
Anyway, the decrease will continue like so for all sizes:
Decrease Row 9: * k9, k2tog, ssk, k9; rep from * (80 stitches)
Decrease Row 10: knit
Decrease Row 11: * k8, k2tog, ssk, k8; rep from * (72 stitches)
Decrease Row 12: knit
Decrease Row 13: * k7, k2tog, ssk, k7; rep from * (64 stitches)
Decrease Row 14: knit
Decrease Row 15: * k6, k2tog, ssk, k6; rep from * (56 stitches)
Decrease Row 16: knit
Decrease Row 17: * k5, k2tog, ssk, k5; rep from * (48 stitches)
Decrease Row 18: knit
Decrease Row 19: * k4, k2tog, ssk, k4; rep from * (40 stitches)
Decrease Row 20: knit
Decrease Row 21: * k3, k2tog, ssk, k3; rep from * (32 stitches)
Decrease Row 22: knit
Decrease Row 23: * k2, k2tog, ssk, k2; rep from * (24 stitches)
Decrease Row 24: knit
Decrease Row 25: * k1, k2tog, ssk, k1; rep from * (16 stitches)
Decrease Row 26: * k2tog, ssk; rep from * (8 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 9 - 26 (7 - 26; 5 - 26; 3 - 26; 1 - 26). At this point, you should have 8 stitches left on your dpns. Clip your yarn tail, leaving a roughly 18" tail, and thread that tail on to your tapestry needle.
I'm beginning to thread, see? |
Oh, and before I forget - there are definitely people who would recommend blocking your hat before you wear it. I am not one of those people. And it's not because I don't block - I do - I just don't block most hats. I know, I'm the worst.
I love this hat! Do you think I could use Rios Malabrigo yarn instead? I have a skein I don't know what to do with!!
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteYes, you absolutely can, but you'll have to change your cast on number and fiddle with the decrease a bit, since it's worsted weight instead of dk. What size do you want to make?
I'd like to make small adult size!
DeleteAt 20 stitches per 4 inches you can cast on 104 stitches instead of 112, and then follow the length directions for the adult small, but start the decrease on the row of the child size. Let me know if that doesn't make sense! :)
DeleteThank you Gretchen! Yes it makes sense. I appreciate it! Can't wait to start. My problem is I have too many things I want to knit and I'm not the fastest knitter quite yet :)
DeleteI totally understand. :) Just let me know if you have any other questions!
DeleteDo you need to adjust the size of the needles with worsted weight or still using 5 and 6's?
DeleteYup, use the needle you need to get gauge to knit the bulk of the hat, and a needle one size smaller for the ribbing. :)
DeleteSo pretty!
ReplyDeleteThank you! The husband loves it too. :)
DeleteSo pretty!
ReplyDeleteI am on Dial-Up Internet...slowest thing ever!! Sooo slow, in fact, that I am unable to watch any UTube tutorials, because of the buffering...would take 3+ hours to watch a 3 minute clip!!! Could you explain how to do the ssk, please? Thank you in advance... By the way, LOVE your blog/site!!
ReplyDeleteOh my goodness, you poor thing! :) I remember dial-up, and not fondly! Anyway, there are plenty of descriptions and tutorials out there. Here's one I like: http://knitting.about.com/od/knittingglossary/g/slip-slip-knit.htm
DeleteAnd in case clicking through takes a millennium, here is the main description of the stitch from that page. :)
"To execute this decrease, slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together."
Umm if you cast of 112,you will be ending in 2 knit not 2 purl so it will acually be knitting 4 in a row. If I cast on 2 more it will throw the decrease off. Can you help me on the decrease if i cast on 114 please?
ReplyDeleteCindy
Hi Cindy!
DeleteSince the ribbing for this hat is a * k2, p2 *, which has a four-stitch repeat, and 112 is divisible by 4, you should have a seamless * k2, p2 * ribbing all around the hat. I can certainly help if you'd prefer to cast on 114 stitches, but you will end up with a bit of a funkier decrease since 114 is only divisible by 2 and 57. This means you'll have unevenly spaced decrease lines. Let me know if that's what you'd like to do and I can help you with some modifications! :)
Ok this time i was so careful co 112 and paid close attentionto what i was doing and it worked perfectly. I ended up with 2 purls. I am so sorry i bothered you with a problem that was my fault. Thank you for taking the time to reply. Btw I love your hats and will keep making them.
ReplyDeleteCindy
Hi Cindy!
DeleteNo worries; I once yelled at a guy at the bank for a long time before I realized that my problem was my own fault (and then I was horribly embarrassed for days). Anyway, it happens. Let me know if you have any other issues or questions! :)
I am making the adult large....my first project znd I am working on the first decrease and after doing the row I am left with 106 stitches. O actually do the k2tog,ssk 5 times on this row. I must be doing something wrong.?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteYes, it does sound like something is going awry. :) My best guess is that you are missing the second k13 from the pattern directions in one of your repeats somewhere - since the first decrease row reads * k13, k2tog, ssk, k13; rep from *, you will actually end up having 26 knit stitches together between all of your groups of k2tog, ssk decreases, even though the k13's don't seem to appear together at first. Anyway, like I said, that's just a guess. Let me know if that's not the problem and I'll take another stab at helping! :)
As a new knitter, I am really enjoying using your pattern here. I do have a decrease question. I'm making the child size (104 stitches) and in your comments you say to begin that decrease on row 9 but you also mention in Decrease row 5 that it is for child size. I'm confused as to which row to start on. Thanks in advance for your help.
ReplyDeleteHi there! Glad you're liking the pattern. And correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm guessing that it's this line that tripped you up: "So, with that in mind, when you start your decrease, you'll begin on Decrease Row 9 (Decrease Row 7; Decrease Row 5; Decrease Row 3; Decrease Row 1)." Since you're making the child size, you will begin on decrease row 5, as you stated above in your comment. My guess is that it just wasn't super clear that this direction contained different information for different sizes. :) Anyway, if that's not what happened and there's another place in the pattern that confused you, please let me know! I am aiming for clear directions, after all! And either way - yes, you'll begin on decrease row 5. :)
DeleteHi Gretchen, my sister and i have a wool shop in Devon, we like to get involved in community projects. The local high school are collecting all sorts of items for a shoe box appeal included knitted items. We are a collection point I am currently knitting a toddler had with some stash yarn to donate. I just wondered if it would be possible to put a link to your pattern on our website and Facebook page as a suggestion for what people could knit for the boxes? Completely understand if this is not ok! Thank You Tori
ReplyDeleteHi Tori!
DeleteThanks for the question! And you're in luck - I definitely encourage sharing! Thanks for getting in touch and let me know if you have any other questions!!!
That is fabulous, thank you I will get on in it in the morning
DeleteCould this be knit with a sport weight yarn?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Hi there!
DeleteYes, it absolutely could! Let me know which size you'd like to make and I'll suggest some modifications for you! :)
Hi Gretchen
DeleteI would like to make a woman's size. Thanks so much Robin
Gretchen I really don't want the ribbing to fold over. Is there a way to adjust this too? Thanks
DeleteHi again!
DeleteOkay, so I'm assuming a gauge of 24-25 stitches per 4 inches (which is in the sport range, probably using the larger of the needles suggested on the yarn package). So using your smaller 16" circular needle (probably a size US 3 or 4) you can go ahead and cast on 136 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Follow the directions for the ribbing, but only knit between 2" and 2.5" in ribbing instead of the 4.5" given - that way it won't roll over (and I only give you the range so you can decide how you like the look - you can stop any time you feel done since the next instruction is for total length and not based on ribbing size). So, once you're happy with your ribbing, transfer work to your gauge needle (probably a US 4 or 5), and knit in stockinette until hat measures 6" in total. Then, you'll begin your crown decreases. Since you have more stitches than the largest size of the hat I've given above, you'll need to start with these decrease rows:
Supplemental Decrease Row 1: * k15, k2tog, ssk, k15; rep from * (128 stitches)
Supplemental Decrease Row 2: knit
Supplemental Decrease Row 3: * k14, k2tog, ssk, k14; rep from * (120 stitches)
Supplemental Decrease Row 4: knit
Knit these four decrease rows and then begin the instructions for the size large hat given above - that should take you to the end! And please, let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Hi Gretchen I completed the hat but it's a little too large. I think maybe my tention is loose. I used a size 3 needle. Should I go down a size?
DeleteHi Robin!
DeleteFirst off, I'm sorry to hear it's a bit too large! I know this makes me a lazy person, but that's one reason I don't knit too many stockinette hats - the gauge really matters! :) That being said, yes, I would just go down one size - you can always swatch first if you're worried, but, again, as a lazy person I would probably just go for it. Anyway, good luck!!!
Do you have another hat pattern that I could knit with this sport weight yarn
DeleteProbably! What gauge are you getting?
DeleteWell from one lazy person to another... I don't know I didn't do a swatch.....
DeleteHa! Okay, when I read that I actually laughed! Anyway, I looked back through some of my patterns and I think the two best for indeterminate sport-weight gauge are the XOXO Beanie (http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/2016/01/xoxo-beanie.html) and the Twilight Rose Beanie (http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/2016/05/twilight-rose-beanie.html), since they both have stretch built into the patterns. Oh, and the Sweetheart Beanie (http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/2014/05/sweetheart-beanie.html) might also be a good choice!
DeleteThank you. I will give one of these a try.
DeleteLet me know if you have any other questions! :)
DeleteI have to make the man's hat with head does not petite. I advice the small adult or large adult? I would like to adhering to overhead. Use yarn DK.
ReplyDeleteGrazie mille
But are 275 yards 50 grammi.
DeleteHi! If your gauge matches mine, I suggest the adult large. :) I also definitely suggest double-checking gauge before you start since your yarn might be a bit heavier than mine, based on weight and yardage!
DeleteI don't know if you remember me but I made this hat and showed you the pic. Well I wear it to work alot and a few of my Co workers loved it so much but don't knit asked me to make them hats like mine. I have made several of the and just gave them away for free to my friends at work and gave you credit for the design. I hope that's ok. I sent them a link to the website .
ReplyDeleteP.S. this is my all time favorite hat to make. Thank you so much for sharing your amazing patterns and ideas. I am very greatful.
ReplyDeleteHi Cindy!
DeleteFirst off, of course I am happy that you made hats for your friends at work!!! :) Share the love, that's what I say! And I'm glad to hear that they are all so well-loved. I'm happy I could be a part of it. :)
I plan on using this for a color work hat that the design is a little to large for worsted weight. I just have a question. Why did you slip all the stitches on to the bigger needle instead of knitting it onto the bigger needle?
ReplyDeletePersonally, I think that slipping them first makes that row of stitches look *ever so slightly* better but you are welcome to knit it on the bigger needle instead! :)
DeleteIs there a way to print this pattern without all the pictures etc. I just need the pattern.
ReplyDeleteYes, just use the PrintFriendly button at the bottom of the pattern (and above the comments). It will allow you to remove photos, etc, before printing - just be aware that the button only loads when the website is not in mobile view!!! :)
DeleteThis is my first hat and I am wanting to make the Large Adult with worsted weight yarn. Should I modify my stitches and needle size?
ReplyDeleteYes, you should! Let me know your exact gauge and I can help you!!! :)
DeleteThank you, I am a machine knitter. I made this to be my first 100% hand knit hat using a Caron Cupcake (with pom-pom!). Gave me a chance to learn dpn knitting.
ReplyDeleteWonderful! So glad you were able to jump right in! And you can't go wrong with a good pompom... ☺️
DeleteI want to make a hat that my adult son can easily carry in his coat pocket. I have berroco vintage dk weight yarn and size 8 needles. Is it possible to use these two together and get a good result? Thanks so much!
ReplyDeleteHmm, the yarn sounds good but the size US 8 needles might be a bit troublesome for the size. You can knit your yarn on them, but your stitches will be a bit too tall, which tends to create a bit of a baggy look and feel. And I definitely wouldn't use those needles for the ribbing - it wouldn't "rib" much at all. :) However, if you have a smaller needle (US 4 or 5, ideally) to work the ribbing you could use the 8s for the body if you make some small adjustments to the gauge. If you'd like to do that, I recommend knitting a swatch on the 8s for gauge, and if you let me know what you get, I can help modify the pattern!
DeleteHi Gretchen. Thanks so much for your quick reply. I thought the jump in needle size might be too much and distort the design, but I wasn't sure. I like your pattern so much, I'll just put the size 6 on my shopping list. I'm following you on youTube and Facebook now. I appreciate all of the help and ideas you share with the world.
ReplyDeleteOh, that's very nice, I'm glad to hear it! And unfortunately, it's pretty easy to the up with a vast array of circulars over time... :)
Deletetried the child size (104 st) - worked great until the decrease; by the end of the round, there weren't enough stitches left to complete
ReplyDeleteHmm, did this happen on the first row or later? I can try to give you some tips for overcoming the issue if you give me more details. :)
DeleteHi Gretchen, I’m making my hat for a friend with alopecia who needs a nice, cool summer hat. I’m doing it to (hopefully) fit her very bald head in bamboo and cotton DK in a seed stitch which she really likes... all of which has left me now at the decrease point with 109 stitches. What shall I do?
ReplyDeleteHi there! I suggest beginning with a modified decrease row 3, like so:
DeleteDecrease Row 3: k12, k2tog, ssk, k24, k2tog, k25, k2tog, k25, k2tog, k13 (104 stitches)
Then you should be set up for the rest of the decrease! :)
Hi Gretchen
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your pattern and great instructions!
I'm knitting the child size for my granddaughter who often wears her hair high in a ponytail. If I wanted to leave a hole for her hair to pop through how would you advise I should modify your pattern?
Thanks
Jacky
Hi there!
DeleteThe easiest is just to stop doing the decrease about 8 rows before the end, and then bind it off in the round! Let me know if you have any other questions. :)
For the child size hat (starting at decrease row 5), how many inches in total is the decrease portion of the hat? I don't have enough yarn for the long cuff and I'm trying to adapt it.
ReplyDeleteHi there! There's probably about 5" of decrease (this hat has a long one). If you're worried about running out of yarn, however, you could start with a provisional cast on and go straight to the stockinette and the decrease. Then when you're finished you could pick up your provisional stitches and add the ribbing. :)
DeleteIt takes a full 5" to decrease in 21 rows - do I have that right? I have 3.5 inches so far and I read that a typical child's hat should be about 8 inches high, so theoretically I should start now. But i counted the rows in one inch on my hat and it's only 9 rows per inch. Wouldn't that be a decrease of less than 2.5 inches? I haven't used this much algebra since I was in middle school - I don't trust that I'm interpreting this correctly!
ReplyDeleteHi again! It is very normal for everyone to knit with a different gauge, so if you have measurements from your work you should definitely use those over my approximations! If you're getting 9 rows per inch then you should plan for the decrease to measure about 2.5", like you said. :) Let me know if you have any other questions!!!
DeleteHi - love your hat, but when I tried it, I came out with this little pointy thing on to - twice. I'm pretty sure I counted correctly. I'm going to rip it out Again and try again, for the third time. Are there any pointers or tips you can give me? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteIf you're getting a weird point then I would just work up to decrease row 23 and then, instead of doing the next three rows, just k2tog for the entire next row, and then finish the hat with the 12 stitches you have after doing that (So cut the yarn and thread it through those final 12 stitches). That should help! :)
DeleteI am using Manos del Uruguay Maxima yarn with this pattern. Is there anything I need to do to adjust for adult small and will one skein be enough it’s 219 yards. Thanks!!!
ReplyDeleteHi there! First off, one skein will definitely be enough. And the gauge is close enough that I can't tell you whether or not you will need to make adjustments - I hate to say this, but you should probably make a gauge swatch on size six needles and see how it turns out! This pattern is written for a 22 stitches = 4 inches gauge, and the Maxima suggests that you might get around 20, but of course you might also get 22 and not need to adjust. If you get back to me with your exact gauge I can give you more advice. :)
DeleteHi Gretchen - I know that this is an old post but this hat is what I would like to make as a chemo beanie for my sister. She wants a single cable. How many stitches should I add to get one simple cable in this hat?
ReplyDeleteThank you for the help. Shelley
Hi Shelley! I'm not exactly sure if you want only one cable or a repeating cable pattern. In either case, I would go with:
Deletep1, k6, p1
for either five or seven rows, and then
p1, slip next three stitches to cable needle and hold in front, k3, slip three held stitches back to left hand needle, k3, p1
for the final pattern row.
Hope that helps! :)
Hi! Sorry if I already posted. I don’t see it. I’m making an adult small. My friend wants it to be slouchy. How long should I make the stockinette section? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi there! Depends on how slouchy you want it! I would suggest adding two inches as a baseline, a bit less or more depending on taste. :)
DeleteI have 122 meters of DK yarn. What is the largest size hat that I would be able to make? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteI didn't knit this hat in every size, but it looks like the general consensus online is that it takes 200-300 yards of dk to make an adult hat.
Deletehttps://www.dummies.com/crafts/knitting/knitting-yarn/knitting-estimating-how-much-yarn-you-need/
So I would say 12 months or toddler, *maybe* child, but definitely half the brim so it's not fold-over!
I just finished my hat - child's size with only half the brim as you suggested - and I just had enough left to sew in the tail. Can't wait to give it to my grandson. Thanks for the pattern.
DeleteYay, I'm so glad it worked out!!!!! :)
DeleteThank you. Very nice looking neat hat!
ReplyDeleteGlad you like it! :)
DeleteWorking on adult small. I have 112 stitches and started my decrease on row 3 but keep ending up with 98 stitches left instead of 104? What am I doing wrong?
ReplyDeleteHi there! Decrease row 3 reads, "k12, k2tog, ssk, k12" - my guess is you're missing that second k12 after the decreases, so you're knitting "k12, k2tog, ssk" instead... Is that possible? :)
DeleteYou're absolutely right! Duh. I love this hat. Thanks for sharing your pattern
DeleteI've definitely done stuff like this before! Glad you like the pattern!!!
DeleteI am working on an adult large hat. I love the pattern, but I am also having difficulty as I have started the decreases. Like the last comment, I ended decrease row 3 with 112 stitches, did my knit row, still 112 stitches, but at the end of my decrease 4 row I had fewer than 104 stitches. Took out that row, and have charted it out on paper, counted it out multiple times, and I am stumped about what I am doing wrong! I do the repetition of k12, k2tog, ssk, k12 tog around, but it seems that 112 only allows for 7 decrease sets, not 8. I will say that math is NOT my strong suit. I know I‘m going to feel sheepish when I get back on track, but enlighten me, please! I want to finish this hat. 😊 Can you tell me how many repeats from * to * I should have at the end of the round? And should I be ending the round with a decrease set or a k12? Thank you so much!
ReplyDeleteHi! You should be working the repeat 4 times per round, not 7 or 8, which gives you only 8 decreases per round. I think you're getting the last bit wrong - it's not k12, k2tog, ssk, k12tog per repeat, it's k12, k2tog, ssk, k12. Then when you work it four times you get 8 decreases in total. I hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions! :)
ReplyDeleteThanks to you, I just knitted my very first hat! Thank you for the detailed instructions and fun commentary along the way. :)
ReplyDeleteAwesome, I'm so glad to hear it! :)
DeleteI think I remember seeing something about skipping the knit rows in the decrease so it doesn’t have the X. I don’t remember if that’s correct or not? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi! If you don't like the x I recommend changing the decrease entirely, the easiest would be to do a * k10, k2tog * then * k9, k2tog * then * k8, k2tog * etc. If you have rows of knit in-between it will be more shaped to the head; if you don't, it will be sloucher. In either case I would add more length before you begin though! As written this hat has quite a long decrease.
DeleteWhat length would you recommend the hat being when we start the decreases for a hat with no X?
DeleteHi! I would add about an inch or an inch and a half. The fold over brim makes this hat very adjustable with length, so you don't have to be too precise! :)
DeleteGretchen, This will be my 3rd time making this hat. It’s so well written and it always turns out great. However, each time I make it I wonder why it says to slip stitches to the larger size needle when you finish the ribbing instead of just knitting the stitches with the larger needle. Is there a reason why you do it that way?
ReplyDeleteNot really, it's mostly just because I never found an easy and quick way to explain the other method! If you slip them all beforehand they might end up the tiniest bit more regular as well I suppose, but it's mostly for the ease of pattern writing. :)
DeleteGlad you like the pattern though!
Just want to say THANK you for publishing a wonderful pattern. I've just knitted a hat for my mother in law for Christmas. I'm so pleased with how it has turned out. I'm already planning to knit another for me and then one for my husband. Thank you from a first time knitted anything properly knitter 😍
ReplyDeleteYay! I'm so glad to hear that this pattern worked out for you! Let me know if you ever have any questions. :)
DeleteExperienced knitter here... In the pattern for starting the decrease, it says
ReplyDelete*K 13, K 2tog, SSK, K 13* To me, that meant I had 26 stitches between the markers. As I decrease, I am leas than halfway through the stitches I need to decrease but I seem to be close enough to the top of the hat to be closing off. If Ikeep going, I think the hat will be pointed. What gives? Was the * supposed to be after SSK?
Hello there! This decrease is worked in a cross and it makes a smooth and slow finish rather than a bunched one that is worked more quickly. It sounds like you're making a size large - since the pattern reads *K 13, K 2tog, SSK, K 13*, that means you should have 30 stitches in each section to start (13 plus 13, plus four to work the k2tog and the ssk). This hat is designed with a foldover brim so it's true that it is especially long and you might be getting close to what looks like full length already - the adjustable brim should mean that this isn't a problem at the end, though!
DeleteAs far as the pointed thing is concerned - it looks like there are a few hundred finished projects on Ravelry and none of them look too pointed to me, but you're welcome to check them out and decide for yourself! https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/build-your-own-dk-weight-hat/people :)
Really well written tutorial. Greater beginner pattern! Thank you for sharing your expertise. Does the combination of SSK and k2tog create the raised decreased areas on the top? I'm making this as a chemo hat :'( and want it to be as smooth and comfortable as possible by eliminating any possible pressure points.
ReplyDeleteHi! Yes, you're correct that the ssk and the k2tog create the raised decrease. :) I wouldn't expect them to create any additional sensation or discomfort though. If you'd rather, however, you could always go with a more traditional decrease!
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