Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Super Slouch Hat

Super Slouch Hat

Some of you asked, and now I'm delivering! The Super Slouch Hat is not just an airy puff of head-topping goodness, it's also knit entirely (wait for it... wait for it...) BACK AND FORTH! So yes, that means that this is the perfect hat for the dpn-adverse among you. It also doesn't have to be nearly as slouchy as it's shown in the picture - with one less pattern repeat and a smaller needle, this would make a more fitted but equally delectable hat. And hey, if you do it that way - take pictures, I'd love to see it!

Yarn: Berroco Folio (65% Superfine Alpaca, 35% Rayon; 219 yards [200 meters]/50 grams); #4502 Orr - 1 skein

The finish.
Needles: Size US 4 needles, size US 7 needles (or US 5 or US 6 for a less relaxed fit)

Notions: Tapestry needle, 8 stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 5 needles

So let's get started! First, then, using your size 4 needles, cast on 114 stitches loosely (if you want to be extra clever, leave a tail long enough for seaming later). Then we'll knit the following ribbing rows, to create the bottom edge of the hat:

Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from *

Ribbing Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 *

Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1 1/4" and you've just finished row 1 of the pattern. Now it's time to switch to our size 7 needles (size 5 or 6 needles if you'd like a more fitted hat) and knit one set-up row to place our extra markers, which goes as follows:

Set-up Row 1 (right side): (k2, place marker, k26, place marker) four times, k2

And once we've knit our set up row, it's time to begin our main hat pattern, which includes stripes of faggoting and stockinette, as follows. I've also added a video (as of March 15, 2015), which demonstrates the (yo, ssk) stitch in case you're having trouble with it. You can watch it below, or simply skip straight to the pattern just a bit below that!



Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, & 9 (wrong side): purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them

Rows 2, 4, 6, & 8: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them

Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, & 18: k2, (slip marker, k1, * yo, ssk * until you're one stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k2) four times

Rows 11, 13, 15, 17, & 19: p2, (slip marker, k1, * yo, ssk * until you're one stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, p2) four times

Row 20: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them

Knit rows 1 - 20 three times (twice for the less slouchy version) and then knit row 1 once more. Now it's time to begin the deceases, which proceed as follows:

Decrease rows 1 & 3: k2, (slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2) four times

Decrease rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, & 12: purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them

Decrease row 5: k2, (slip marker, ssk, k7, k2tog, ssk, k7, k2tog, slip marker, k2) four times

Decrease row 7: k2, (slip marker, ssk, k5, k2tog, ssk, k5, k2tog, slip marker, k2) four times

Decrease row 9: k2, (slip marker, ssk, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, k2tog, slip marker, k2) four times

Decrease row 11: k2, (slip marker, ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog, slip marker, k2) four times

Decrease row 13: k2, (slip marker, [slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso] twice, slip marker, k2) four times

Decrease row 14: purl, removing extra markers when you come to them

Decrease row 15: * k2tog; rep from *

Clip tail of yarn and thread final 9 stitches to scrap of yarn. Seam, starting at bottom edge, until seam is finished except for those final 9 stitches at the top. Thread seaming yarn through final 9 stitches and pull tight. Knot and tuck in ends. Block, taking care not to stretch out ribbing at the bottom of the hat.





77 comments:

  1. Hey...super cool looking slouch hat! That yarn looks
    so soft. Lovely creation.
    Cheers, Anita.

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    1. Thanks Anita! This is my first back and forth hat, and I thought it turned out nicely. Now I just need to give it to someone with lots of hair! :)

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  2. Love the look of this and the fact is knit back and forth... sold! Thank you.

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    1. I'm glad you like it! :) This was my first back and forth hat, and I think it turned out nicely. You can't even tell it's seamed!

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  3. Can I make it in the round on circular needle?

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    1. You can! See instructions below. Please note, however, that the mesh rows are going to be more annoying to knit in the round than they are back and forth, since you'll have to use a fancier decrease to get the same effect :) Speaking of which, for more info on the slip, slip, purl (ssp) you can go here: http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/35-features/1093-decoding-decreases

      So let's get started! First, then, using your size 4 needles, cast on 112 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following ribbing rows, to create the bottom edge of the hat:

      Ribbing Row 1: * k1, p2, k1; rep from *

      Knit ribbing row 1 until piece measures roughly 1 1/4". Now it's time to switch to our size 7 needles (size 5 or 6 needles if you'd like a more fitted hat) and knit one set-up row to place our extra markers, which goes as follows:

      Set-up Row 1 : (k1, place marker, k26, place marker, k1) four times

      And once we've knit our set up row, it's time to begin our main hat pattern, which includes stripes of faggoting and stockinette, as follows:

      Rows 1 - 9: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them

      Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, & 18: (k1, slip marker, k1, * yo, ssk * until you're one stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k1) four times

      Rows 11, 13, 15, 17, & 19: (k1, slip marker, p1, * ssp, yo * until you're one stitch before marker, p1, slip marker, k1) four times

      Row 20: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them

      Knit rows 1 - 20 three times (twice for the less slouchy version) and then knit row 1 once more. Now it's time to begin the deceases, which proceed as follows:

      Decrease rows 1 & 3: (k1, slip marker, ssk, until you're two stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1) four times

      Decrease rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, & 12: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them

      Decrease row 5: (k1, slip marker, ssk, k7, k2tog, ssk, k7, k2tog, slip marker, k1) four times

      Decrease row 7: (k1, slip marker, ssk, k5, k2tog, ssk, k5, k2tog, slip marker, k1) four times

      Decrease row 9: (k1, slip marker, ssk, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, k2tog, slip marker, k1) four times

      Decrease row 11: (k1, slip marker, ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog, slip marker, k1) four times

      Decrease row 13: (k1, slip marker, [slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso] twice, slip marker, k1) four times

      Decrease row 14: knit, removing extra markers when you come to them

      Decrease row 15: * k2tog; rep from *

      Clip tail of yarn and thread through final 9 stitches. Pull tight. Thread to inside of hat, knot, and tuck in ends. Block, taking care not to stretch out ribbing at the bottom of the hat.

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  4. I love everything you create! You are such a talented designer!

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  5. Finished your slouchy hat, and I love it! I think there may be s small error in the first decrease rows 1 and 3. Pattern states "ssk, until you're two stitches from marker," this did not leave me enough stitches between markers to follow remaining decrease rows. I believe it should state "ssk, k until you're two stitches from marker" does this make sense? Still worked, just decreased faster! Thanks for the pattern!

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    1. Hello there!

      Yes, you are totally right - it should be "KNIT until there are two stitches left." Thank you for letting me know - I fixed it already :) And I'm so glad you like the pattern!!!

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    2. I did the same thing as mommyvan - and couldn't figure out why I didn't have enough stitches to finish - so reread it, reworked it and finished it. I only did two repeats not three and it turned out lovely

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    3. Again, I apologize for the confusion. And I'm glad it still worked out well for you! :)

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  6. Hi! Love this pattern! Thanks so much for sharing...I've just made one for myself and I'm now making one for my Mum! X You can see my hat here:
    http://prettyflowersinthewindow.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/a-knitted-hat-and-crocheted-blanket.html

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    1. Hi Maggie!

      Thanks for the link - I love your colorway. So pretty!!!! :)

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  7. Hi Gretchen, I've just made another one for my Mum!
    http://prettyflowersinthewindow.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/mums-slouchy-knitted-hat.html
    and now I'm making one for my sister! I love this pattern! I want to try some of your other patterns but I need to pluck up courage to try using circular needles! Thanks again, Maggie xx

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  8. does a gage of 20 st = 4 in still work, or are those two extra stitches imperative? (i finished the twilled stripe hat, by the way :) thank you so much for your advice; it came out great!)

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    1. Yay! I'm glad to hear it. :) And you just need to make a few adjustments for the different weight yarn... give me a little while, and I'll reply again with modified instructions!

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    2. Okay, so it's not THAT different or anything, but I do think you should modify it a bit. This gauge doesn't work out exactly like the other, so I'm giving you two size options, one a bit larger than the original and one a bit smaller. For a larger size, then, modify as follows:

      First, cast on 106 stitches rather than 114. Then your marker placement row will go as follows:

      Set-up Row 1 (right side): (k2, place marker, k24, place marker) four times, k2

      Then everything else will proceed as usual, except you can skip decrease rows 1 & 2!

      And for the smaller size:

      First, cast on 98 stitches rather than 114. Then your marker placement row will go as follows:

      Set-up Row 1 (right side): (k2, place marker, k22, place marker) four times, k2

      Then everything else will proceed as usual, except you can skip decrease rows 3 & 4! And, just to be clear - these sizes will both make adult-sized hats, and you should choose one or the other based simply on if you have a largerish or smallerish head. Let me know if you have any other questions. :)

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    3. Thanks so much for your thorough reply! I can't wait to get started. :]

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    4. Any time! I hope it works out well for you. :)

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  9. Hi there, thanks for this lovely pattern. İ'm a new knitter and this pattern is just the right pattern i've been looking for :) i'll try to make one for my lil sister. Wish me luck :D oh, and i have a question, what is exactly the stitch marker needs for?

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    1. Good luck, of course! :) And the stitch markers are there so that you don't have to count your stitches - since you change patterns between the mesh and two-stitch strips of stockinette, the markers prevent you from missing the transition.

      Let me know if you have any other questions!

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    2. İ see.. Thank you so much for the fast response.. Just started to knit.. Hope it can be good just like yours :D

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    3. I am always happy to help! :) But bear in mind that this mesh can be a bit difficult to knit - you'll definitely want to try to keep it loose, to make it easier!

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  10. This is a beautiful slouch hat & just THE PERFECT pattern for me. There is a girl that does the valet parking at my cancer center that loves slouch hats & I've been looking for just the right hat pattern to knit for her as a gift. I think she'll love it. I have 18 days until my next treatment , so that gives me plenty of time to make hers & one for me also. :-) Your patterns are fantastic. Thank you for sharing them.

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    1. Hi Juanita!

      That sounds like a lovely gift! Also, I hope your treatment is going smoothly. :) Please let me know if you have any questions about this pattern or any others!

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  11. I'm not sure if this is just because of my little experience in knitting or if this is a mistake: I'm finding a problem with the set-up row. With 114 total stitches cast on, K2, placing the marker, then K26, x4, and ending with K2...this is only 108 stitches accounted for. Where do the other 6 stitches go?

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    1. Hi there!

      You're actually performing the whole (k2, place marker, k26, place marker) 4 times (so you will be placing 8 markers). Then you have 28 stitches four times, plus an extra two, and everything works out. Let me know if you have any more questions! :)

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  12. The ssk stitch is a decrease stitch. Correct? If so then I'm not going to have any stiches left to work with . I am so confused.

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    1. Yes, the ssk is a decrease but the yo (yarn over) is an increase so you will maintain your stitch count throughout. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  13. I want to knit this on circulars with the modified version that has 96 stitches. Can I use the circulars pattern you wrote and is there a point where I would pick it up?

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    1. Hi Debbie!

      Yes, you use the circular pattern above, but you'll want to modify the set up row as follows:

      Set-up Row 1 : (k1, place marker, k22, place marker, k1) four times

      You an also begin the decrease at decrease row 5 from the circular pattern!

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  14. Can you please demonstrate the 'ssp yo'?

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    1. Hi!

      Unfortunately I can't right now because I'm out of town... You can find a link to the ssp below, though, and if that doesn't help comment back and I can get a video up for you next week! :)

      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lTCoak_KNDY

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  15. Thanks so much! I will let you know if I need any more help.

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  16. Hi Gretchen, I would really appreciate a video of the 'ssp yo' in this pattern. It helps me a lot if I actually see it being done. Thanks again, Debra

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    1. Okay, I'll work on it as soon as I'm back from vacation. :)

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  17. Thank you very much! :-)

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    1. Sorry for the wait! Hopefully this helps. :)

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLs52r3UCls&feature=youtu.be

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  18. You are such a rock star. I can finally try knitting a hat!

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    1. Yay! Please let me know if you have any questions!!! :)

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  19. Love the pattern couldn't wait to start it, your printer friendly used up all my ink on the pictures of the hat and by the time I got to first page there was no ink left. I would recommend you limit the amount of pictures to spare the ink. Just a suggestion. Thanks for sharing your patterns

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    1. Hi Doris!

      I'm sorry to hear that happened! However, printerfriendly gives you the option to delete any element you don't want to print... so next time, just delete 'em all before you print! :)

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  20. I have a quick question, How many inches was it across? Before you sewed it up?
    I have to use a little bigger needles to start and I'm trying to figure out how many stitches to take off

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    1. Hi! I would cast on with enough stitches to make the band roughly 21" around, if it were knit in stockinette. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  21. Gretchen ,I would like to knit this for my 10 year old granddaughter. I have looked at the instructions for 98 stitches but still think that it will be too big. Can you suggest number of stitches that would work. Your original pattern doesn't state the finished size. Thank You

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    1. Hi there!

      The original hat has a band just under 21" across, which is of course stretchy (and then the mesh pattern opens the hat up a bit more). Provided your gauge is also 22 stitches = 4 inches, I suggest casting on 106 stitches for a child of that age (for a band just over 19"). 98 would probably also work, but it might be a bit on the tight side. Anyway, if you cast on 106 simply use this set-up row:

      Set-up Row 1 (right side): (k2, place marker, k24, place marker) four times, k2

      And then start the decrease from row 3 instead of row 1. :)

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  22. Is it possible to make this without the lace part? I like the hat but only have a set of sz 4 needles

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    1. Hi there!

      I actually used my size US 7 needles for the whole hat except for the ribbing, so there isn't really any skippable part if you want to knit your hat on size 4s alone. However, you certainly COULD just knit the whole thing on size 4s if you wanted. With that, you would have two options: first, you could just follow the pattern without the needle switch, and have a tighter-fitting hat (and possibly a floppier ribbing - the main reason you see hat patterns with a ribbing knit on smaller needles is because ribbing has a different gauge than stockinette, and typically looks and fits better if it's made with smaller needles. That doesn't mean that people haven't tried, and succeeded, at knitting hats on all the same size needles, of course). Your second option would be to knit the ribbing normally and then add stitches, so that you still get the looser fit of the main hat but on smaller needles.

      And actually - a third option if neither of the last two appeal - you could swap out the ribbing for a rolled brim (so basically just knit stockinette for roughly 2" instead of the ribbing to begin), and then you would avoid your floppy ribbing issue without also having to deal with added stitches and pattern modification. :)

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  23. I must be doing something wrong. There is a cast on 114 sts. then it ends up at 108 sts. I adjusted them accordingly but when doing the pattern. K2, K1 yo ssk ends up with 2 sts before the stitch divider, not 1 please help me

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    1. Hi there!

      After you cast on 114 you divide them as follows: (k2, place marker, k26, place marker) four times, k2. So you have 4*(26+2) plus an extra two stitches, or 4*28 + 2, which is 114. Then, when you get to the pattern you only repeat the stuff in parentheses. So, for lines 10, etc, which reads like this: [k2, (slip marker, k1, * yo, ssk * until you're one stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k2) four times] what you do is k2, then slip the marker, then k1, then only repeat the (yo, ssk) until you're one stitch before the next marker, NOT the whole k2, k1, yo, ssk.

      Hope that helps, and let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  24. Hi!

    I'm really really bad at using DPN, could I use circular needles instead?

    Thanks!

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    1. Hi!

      This hat is written back and forth on straight needles so you definitely don't need dpns! :)

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  25. HI Gretchen,
    I am still quite the beginner and have miraculously almost finished this hat, but I am in the decrease section now and somehow I have a different number of stitches to the pattern. I think originally I may have cast on fewer stitches than the pattern said.

    I am on decrease row number 5 - and instead of having 4 x 26 stitches in between my markers I have 20/20/22/22.

    How would I amend the rest of the decrease instructions to work with this?

    Thanks so much!

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    1. Hi there!

      First off, don't worry about this at all - I don't think you'll notice anything! And here is what I suggest:

      Basically, on Row 5 you're just introducing another decrease midway through each of your big sections - the (ssk, k7, k2tog, ssk, k7, k2tog ) is just adding another in the middle. So, divide each of your big sections in half, and then do this: ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from center of bigger section, k2tog, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from stitch marker, k2tog. You can use that technique all the way to the finish!

      Hope that helps, and let me know if you have any more questions! :)

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    2. Hi Gretchen! Thank you SOO much for this. Just a few more questions :)
      So I do the same for all 4 sections (ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from center of bigger section, k2tog, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from stitch marker, k2tog) even though they have a different amount of stitches? So my first 2 blocks will be divided in the middle between stitch 10 and 11, and the last 2 blocks, the middle will be between stitch 12 and 13?

      The other questions is, can I continue in this fashion until I get to decrease row 13? I was quite excited to try that little challenge?

      Lastly, Do you have any videos of seaming I can use for the end?

      Thanks so Much!

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    3. You can do the same thing, or you can try to even it out by skipping decreases for the sections where you have fewer stitches. One row around skipping middle decreases should do it (and be virtually unnoticeable at the end). Or you can worry about that later, when you're approaching 13. Either way you do it, it should work just fine!!

      As far as row 13 is concerned, once you have 6 stitches in your larger sections you can move to that. You can fudge a little on decreases in the previous sections if you're working out to get 8 or 4 at that point (and by fudge I mean skip some decreases in the middle, if needed).

      Finally, I haven't made any seaming videos but here's a good one!

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lULXxuAcIEg

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  26. Hi Gretchen! I just found your pattern and am hoping to knit it up for a friend beginning chemo - shes's got a big head and I'm wondering how I might upsize the pattern for a larger noggin...

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    1. Hi there!

      This pattern is pretty darn slouchy already, so honestly you might just be able to block it bigger! Another option is to use one size larger needles for the whole hat, or even just one size larger for the ribbing. :)

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  27. I'm having difficulty doing yo, ssk due to arthritis. Would it make much difference to do yo, k2tog instead? Making this for my 16 year old granddaughter for Christmas.

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    1. Hi there!

      It definitely makes a different sort of lace to use a k2tog instead, not that that's a bad thing, just different! You might get a little closer with a k2tog-tbl though... Either way,you could always try a small swatch of both and see what works best for you! :)

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  28. Is it possible to do this pattern with chunkier yarn?

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    1. Yes, as long as you have an even number of stitches for each of the four sections. What I would suggest would be to calculate your estimated stitch count based on your yarn gauge, and then look at how the pattern is divided into four sections and make sure you still have four even sections and your edge stitches, adjusting your stitch count as necessary.

      Also be aware that the pattern will of course change appearance when worked with larger gauge yarn. :)

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  29. (Just lost my first comment - 2nd go!)

    Thanks for your generosity with sharing such a great pattern! Really appreciated the video!

    I knitted this for my sister who loves it. I'd like to put up a photo but that doesn't look possible.

    I knitted it in cheap synthetic wool (self-isolating - couldn't get anything else).

    Ribbing and 4 final decrease rows in red
    Stocking rows in caramel
    Pattern rows in cream

    Lovely! And thank you - my three adult nieces all want the same hat in different colours now!

    Ravelry name: KnittingMandyLou

    Would be GREAT if you could post this pattern on ravelry - then we could share our projects with you!

    ReplyDelete
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    1. Hi there!

      So glad to hear that this pattern worked out so well for you. :) It sounds lovely! And the pattern is on Ravelry - you can find it here:

      https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/super-slouch-hat-4

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  30. Replies
    1. Hi there! It is exactly the same as row 10, except the four k2 bits become p2 bits so you get rows of stockinette stitches from the right side... Maybe if you had a more specific question I could help you more? :)

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  31. Extremely confused with pattern

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    1. I'm sorry to hear that! If you can give me any more details about what's tripping you up I might be able to help. :)

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  32. I love this hat and have stitched it many times. My question is that I am doing this in the round for the first time and want to know what I am doing wrong on the p1*ssp, yo*p1 It decreases down to 25. I am including the yos, so don't know what I am doing wrong. Your help would be appreciated

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    1. Hi there! If I'm following you correctly, the problem you're having is that, when you're knitting the main lace pattern part of the hat (before the decreases), you're losing one stitch per each of the four sections. Does that sound right? My best guess is that you're losing your last yarn over per section. In any case, you can check by finishing one quadrant and then counting your stitches and their types. I'm going to write out how it should look stitch by stitch below - just remember that I'm counting both purls and knits and stitches.

      So, that being said, the 26 stitches should look like this:
      stitch, stitch, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, yo, stitch, stitch

      Like I said, I bet you're missing the yo before the final 2 stitches, but you'll have to check to be sure! Hope that helps!!! :)

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    2. Oops, counting both purls and knits *as* stitches. And I'm counting the ssps that way too!

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    3. Thanks for responding so quickly. Yes it is the lace pattern.

      I should have mentioned I do count every quadrant. The yo, as ssk goes fine. It is just the ssp

      Also, I think u were saying stitches as ssp. Is what u meant to say? L
      Also, am I doing 2 stitches at the beginning of work and at end vs. 1?

      I don't know if I am making sense. So confused on my end

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    4. Hi! All I'm trying to say is that if you look back at your work you should be able to tell the difference between a yarn over and a stitch (whether that stitch is a knit, purl, or ssp, it will look different from a yarn over). So if you look back the stitches and yarn overs should go in the order I stated above - there should be three stitches before the first yarn over, and then it should alternate between yarn overs and stitches until you get to the end, where there should be two stitches after your final yarn over. Hopefully if you look carefully you can see what's happening - chances are you're just missing a yarn over somewhere. Hope that helps!

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