Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves

Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves

Did you knit the Sailor's Rib Cowl, but still can't find anything to wear with it? Never fear, these Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves will do just the trick! Made with a reinforced palm and plenty of ribbing to keep them snug around the wrists and fingers, these mitts are sturdy, stylish, and warm. They are also suitable for either a man or a woman, with three sizes for your knitting pleasure.

Sizes: small (medium; large) - directions for larger sizes will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses (and, for clarification, the small is for a hand roughly 7" - 7.5" in circumference at the base of the thumb, medium for 7.5" - 8.25", and large for 8.25" - 9")

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9458 Bainbridge Island Heather - 1 skein

Needles: one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 5, one set of dpns in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

And with that, let's make some gloves! These mitts are designed as mirror images, so we'll work them one at a time, as follows.

Left Mitt

Using your size 5 needles, cast on 36 (40; 44) stitches and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 12 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 12 on your third (12, 16, 12; 14, 16, 14). Join in round. Then we'll work the ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Work ribbing row until mitt measures 2" (2.5"; 3"). Then, switch to your size 7 needles and we'll begin incorporating the main pattern, which is Fisherman's Rib from page 4 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. Anyway, we'll continue as follows. Notice I have given each size's instructions separately, for clarity.

Size Small:

Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Row 3: (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Size Medium:

Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Row 3: k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Row 3: k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Knit rows 1 - 4 of whichever size you're making, and then we'll set up our gusseting rows as follows:

Gusset Set-Up Row 1: complete Row 1 of whichever size mitt you're making

Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, complete Row 2 of whichever size mitt you're making

And once those two are done, we'll continue like so:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, complete row 3 of your desired mitt size, knit until end of round (yes; on your first repeat of this row, there will be nothing left to knit at this point)

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, complete row 4 of your desired mitt size, m1l, knit until end of round (yes; on your first repeat of this row, there will be nothing left to knit at this point)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, complete row 1 of your desired mitt size, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, complete row 2 of your desired mitt size, m1l, knit until end of round

Knit gusset rows 1 - 4 until you've added 8 (8; 9) extra stitches to your first needle and 7 (7; 8) to your third and you've just completed either row 2 or row 4 of the gusset pattern. Knit across first 8 (8; 9) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and  final 7 (7; 8) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb. Then, we'll continue the same pattern we worked before, joining mitt back in round at thumb hole. I've rewritten the pattern rows below, for your convenience, but remember that, if you quit knitting your gusset at row 2, you'll begin the below pattern at row 1, whereas if you quit knitting your gusset at row 4, you'll begin the below pattern at row 3. 

Size Small:

Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Row 3: (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Size Medium:

Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Row 3: k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Row 3: k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Knit rows 1 - 4 of your desired size mitt until mitt measures roughly 1" from thumb break and you've just finished row 2 or row 4 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size 5 needles, and we'll work a ribbing as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1" (1.25"; 1.5"). Bind off loosely in pattern. Next, transfer thumb stitches to your size 5 needles. Knit 5 (6; 7) rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break when you reach it (if that stitch should be a purl, it's fine to pick up a knit stitch on that first row around!). Bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends and block.

Right Mitt

Using your size 5 needles, cast on 36 (40; 44) stitches and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 12 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 12 on your third (12, 16, 12; 14, 16, 14). Join in round. Then we'll work the ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Work ribbing row until mitt measures 2" (2.5"; 3"). Then, switch to your size 7 needles and we'll begin incorporating the main pattern, which is Fisherman's Rib from page 4 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. Anyway, we'll continue as follows. Notice I have given each size's instructions separately, for clarity.

Size Small:

Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 3: k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4

Size Medium:

Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 3: k20, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 2: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 3: k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, k2

Row 4: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2

Knit rows 1 - 4 of whichever size you're making, and then we'll set up our gusseting rows as follows:

Gusset Set-Up Row 1: complete Row 1 of whichever size mitt you're making

Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, complete Row 2 of whichever size mitt you're making

And once those two are done, we'll continue like so:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, complete row 3 of your desired mitt size, knit until end of round (yes; on your first repeat of this row, there will be nothing left to knit at this point)

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, complete row 4 of your desired mitt size, m1l, knit until end of round (yes; on your first repeat of this row, there will be nothing left to knit at this point)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, complete row 1 of your desired mitt size, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, complete row 2 of your desired mitt size, m1l, knit until end of round

Knit gusset rows 1 - 4 until you've added 8 (8; 9) extra stitches to your first needle and 7 (7; 8) to your third and you've just completed either row 2 or row 4 of the gusset pattern. Knit across first 8 (8; 9) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and  final 7 (7; 8) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb. Then, we'll continue the same pattern we worked before, joining mitt back in round at thumb hole. I've rewritten the pattern rows below, for your convenience, but remember that, if you quit knitting your gusset at row 2, you'll begin the below pattern at row 1, whereas if you quit knitting your gusset at row 4, you'll begin the below pattern at row 3. 

Size Small:

Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 3: k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4

Size Medium:

Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 3: k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 2: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 3: k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, k2

Row 4: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2

Knit rows 1 - 4 of your desired size mitt until mitt measures roughly 1" from thumb break and you've just finished row 2 or row 4 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size 5 needles, and we'll work a ribbing as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1" (1.25"; 1.5"). Bind off loosely in pattern. Next, transfer thumb stitches to your size 5 needles. Knit 5 (6; 7) rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break when you reach it (if that stitch should be a purl, it's fine to pick up a knit stitch on that first row around!). Bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends and block.






33 comments:

  1. Gretchen, thanks so very much for designing these gloves. They look great in the pictures. I will get started this evening. I commented under the cowl. You might have sent me an email that I overlooked. I get a bunch and don't check my emails as much like I used to. I think I will be knitting the sailor's rib cowl and the fingerless gloves for Christmas presents. Don't forget the hat to match. I might be knitting a set for each of the guys going on the sailing trip with my son in January around the Caribbean. Again, THANKS from Deborah S Prather, Sailor Girl.

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    1. Hi Deborah!

      Yes, I did email you when I posted this pattern, but I'm glad you found it either way. I hope you like them! And I do still have the hat in my queue, although I have a few other projects to finish first. :)

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  2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. I went back and found the email. I just have not been checking my emails like I used to. I have moved from Louisville, Kentucky to Fredericksburg, Virginia. I am having trouble getting unpacked and settled. I drove back to Louisville to take care of some business and to attend a conference. Turns out I do not have the right needles with me to get started on the gloves. I had brought the circular needles that I used to knit the cowl. I plan to go by Jo Ann's Monday. I do not want to wait until I get back to Virginia next week. I had time to get started tonight (Sunday). Bummer.

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    2. I'm sorry to hear you don't have the right needles with you. That's always the worst! Anyway, let me know if you have any questions about this pattern once you get started. :) And I hope you have a good time back in Louisville!

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  3. Gretchen, after the ribbing do knit Rows 1-4 just one time before the gusset set-up? My brain froze. I think it's just one time. I just want to be sure. Thanks

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  4. I'm sorry, but I'm not really understanding the Gussest Rows. When you say "knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn" do you mean actually knit (not following the pattern) putting 14 stitches on your first dpn?

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  5. This is a continuation of the above. Then you write Complete row 3, knit until end of round. I take it that you are to pick up the pattern to finish each row, but I'm just not understanding this.

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    1. Hi again!

      I tried my best to make the gusset for this pattern fit each different size without having to rewrite it three times, which is why my instructions refer back to the original pattern rows. Basically, you're just knitting every new stitch you add in the gusset, and continuing to work all of your original stitches in your four-row pattern. Therefore, when I say to knit until you have 14 stitches left, all I'm trying to say is to knit all new stitches, and then resume your original pattern row once you're back to your original stitches. The same thing goes for the end of the pattern - again, you'll be knitting all of the stitches once you've completed working your original 44 stitches in pattern (since it sounds like you're making a large). I hope that helps! :)

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    2. I am still trying to figure this out. The knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn is throwing me off. From what you wrote I'm interrupting it that I am continuing to follow the four row pattern and that at the beginning I'll be knitting the added stitches along with the k2 that starts off each row in the pattern. Then I'll be knitting the added stitches that are added in the row. Meaning I'll be "knitting" extra stitches at the end of the rows. Thus the added stitches at the beginning and the added stitches towards the end will all be in stockinet pattern. Does this make sense? If need be could you call me on my cell (502) 550-4798? Thanks.

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    3. Another thing. How do you keep from getting a hole when you m1?

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    4. Hi again!

      Unfortunately I've got a sick kid home from school today so it's hard to get on the phone (since I get yelled at!!!). However, I definitely think you have the right idea. :) You'll be adding extra stitches at the beginning of your first needle and at the end of your third needle, so the thumb will end up being basically centered around your row break. After you complete your gusset set-up rows, you should have 15 stitches on your first needle (since you already completed a m1r on your first needle in the set up). So, you should knit 1 (your added stitch), and then complete the full pattern row, which covers exactly 44 stitches (and begins with that k2 instruction. When you add stitches on your first needle, they will always happen right before that k2). On the first time you knit gusset row 1, that will cover all of your stitches, since you should have 45 on your needles at that point. When you reach gusset row 1 again, you'll have 17 stitches on your first needle and 16 on your third, so you'll have more added stitches to knit in stockinette before and after you complete your pattern row (since you're right, the thumb is completed in stockinette).

      As far as holes when you make your stitches - sometimes I get little ones, but they usually disappear as you keep working. I like this page for m1r/m1l instructions: http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/92-how-to/1046-make-1-left-or-right-m1-m1l-m1r

      At any rate, I really hope that helps. Let me know! :)

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  6. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'll get back to knitting tonight. I'm sorry about your sick child. I hope they are feeling better. Though night time can seem worse. I hope the fall weekend goes well for you and your family.

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    1. Don't worry, he's not very sick, just not well enough to go to school. And I think that you have the right idea; if you just muscle through the instructions I think it will all start to make sense! :)

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  7. Another question - You write knit until one inch from "thumb break". What do you mean by thumb break? Is this where you slipped a total of 17 stitches to a yarn holder?

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    1. Yes, that's exactly what I mean! Those stitches will become your thumb. :)

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  8. I do not understand gusset row 1. I am working on a 9" circular needle.
    I am not understanding how to knit this gusset row 1. Thankyou

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    1. Hi there!

      If you tell me which size you're making I can write it out explicitly for you. If, on the other hand, you're just worried that the directions are written for dpns and not circulars, you can just go ahead and place markers where your dpn ends would be. Then you can keep your count straight and continue on your circulars! :)

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  9. Thank you for your prompt response. I am making a size medium. I would love it if you could write out the directions for me. Thank you so very much!

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    1. Hi again!

      At this point, you've only added one stitch to your pattern. Therefore, gusset row 1 will look like:

      Gusset Row 1: k1 (since that's all you need to knit to have only 12 stitches left on your first dpn); then, k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round (since that's what you need to do to complete row 3 of the medium size)

      Let me know if you have any more questions! :)

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    2. Thank you again. I ended up putting markers as if I were using the dpn's based on your suggestion. This is helping but I have only finished gusset row. 1-4 once. I hope I get the right amount of stitches on dpn 1 and 3 to put on the scrap yarn.
      Thank you again for your help!

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    3. Keep working at it and let me know if you have any more problems! I am happy to help. :)

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  10. Hi Gretchen, Andrea from Boise... I also would like to knit these gloves on circulars instead of DPN's. I have reviewed your emails and think I have it, but do you have any suggestions with regard to this pattern by working in circulars vs double pointed needles?... I may have to switch to ADP N to do the thumb gusset, but any suggestions you may have will be appreciated... Meaning any area I may encounter a problem. I also will be knitting medium, but hope to knit a large at a later time once I get the pattern down. Thank you for your kind assistance and sharing.

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    1. Hi Andrea!

      My only real advice for knitting on circulars instead is to place stitch markers where the ends of the dpns would be, since I often count in relation to the ends. Other than that, things should work out! And, as always, let me know if you have any more questions. :)

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  11. Gretchen, I need to thank you for making my Christmas gifting so easy this year. I made a pair for my husband earlier this year, and he loves them so much (and wears them almost daily in the cold mornings and evenings) that I decided to make a pair for all of the men in my life. I just finished making my 3rd pair, and only have 1 more pair to go. These are beautiful, quick to make, and I know will be appreciated. Thank you again with all of my heart.

    Julie Whetzel (Silverado CA)

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    1. Yay!!!! I'm so glad to hear that they're getting so much use and love!!! :) Thanks for sharing!

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  12. Hi Gretchen, just finished the ribbing and starting row 1 size large. I have 44 stitches. So when the pattern says p1 k2 p1 til end of round, by my math I will be ending the first row with the k2 and not the p1; is this correct? Thank you.

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    1. Hi Andrew!

      Actually, you only (p1, k1, p1) once, and then knit until the end of the round. Does that make sense? Also, let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  13. Also, using size 6 as opposed to size 7 which is 22 stitches = 4 inches so I am
    Not sure if I need to adjust the pattern.

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    Replies
    1. Hi again!

      So the gauge is always a tricky question - I give the needles I use, and the gauge of course, so that you know how many stitches I'm getting per inch, and what to aim for. Some people might get the same gauge working on a different needle size; if that's the case, they should work on different needles than I used, since gauge is more important than needle size.

      All of that being said, if you didn't swatch (no judgement!) and aren't sure of your gauge, but you're typically a package-gauge knitter (not a tight knitter or a loose knitter), I don't think that being off by one needle size on this project is going to affect your finished size very much unless you're knitting for someone with HUGE hands and you were worried they might not fit the mitts in the first place. Just make sure to leave your yarn loose behind your slipped stitches and you should be good to go! :)

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  14. Oh geez I misread the pattern! Thanks for getting right back to me. Another question: slip 1 wyib, is that slip knitwise or purl wise?

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    1. On my site you can always assume purlwise if I don't say otherwise; this is because a knitwise slip twists the stitch (although I have been trying to be better about specifying on my newer patterns). :)

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