Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Little Red Hooded Cowl

Little Red Hooded Cowl
Size 4 - 6, on a giant-headed 4-year-old

So here's the thing. I made the Baby Bear Hooded Cowl for my six-year-old, and then my four-year-old demanded a similar hat of his own. And while many elements of the two designs are the same (I made them with the same weight yarn and same basic premise), the Little Red Hooded Cowl adds a cute little cable, just for fun. That same cable also makes it fit a tad snugger than the Baby Bear Hooded Cowl, which also gives it a slightly different look.

Note: As of 1/14/17, I've corrected the cast on number for the large adult. :)

Sizes: Toddler (Ages 4 - 6; Ages 7 - 12; Teen/Small Adult; Large Adult)

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Encore Chunky (75% Acrylic, 22% Wool, 3% Rayon; 143 yards [131 meters]/100 grams); #999  - one skein (two skeins; two skeins; two skeins; two skeins)

A closer look at the cable.
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 9, one 16" circular needle in size US 10, cable needle (cn)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches on size 10 needles 

So let's get started! Using your 16" size 9 circular needle, then, cast on 64 (68; 72; 76; 80) stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: p3, k6, p2, * k2, p2; rep from * until you have 13 stitches left in round, then k2, p2, k6, p3

Knit ribbing row 5 (5; 6; 6; 6) times. Then, transfer work to your size US 10 16" needle, and we'll begin the main pattern, as follows. To complete it, you'll need the following notation:

front cross (fc): slip next stitch to cn and hold in front, k2, k1 from cn

back cross (bc): slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in back, k1, k2 from cn

And now that we've got that down, we'll work like so:

Row 1: p3, bc, fc, p2, knit until you have 11 stitches left in round, p2, bc, fc, p3

Row 2: p3, k6, p2, knit until you have 11 stitches left in round, p2, k6, p3

Rows 3 & 4: p3, k2, slip 2 stitches with yarn in back (slip 2 wyib), k2, p2, knit until you have 11 stitches left in round, p2, k2, slip 2 stitches with yarn in back (slip 2 wyib), k2, p3

Knit rows 1 - 4 until piece measures roughly 2.5" (4"; 5.5"; 7.5"; 9.5") and you've just finished row 1 of the pattern. Switch to your size 9 needle, and we'll do a few more ribbing rows before we move on to the hood, like so:

Ribbing Row 1: p3, k6, p2, * k2, p2; rep from * until you have 13 stitches left in round, then k2, p2, k6, p3

Ribbing Rows 2 & 3: p3, k2, slip 2, k2, p2, * k2, p2; rep from * until you have 13 stitches left in round, then k2, p2, k2, slip 2, k2, p3

Ribbing Row 4: p3, bc, fc, p2, * k2, p2; rep from * until you have 13 stitches left in round, then k2, p2, bc, fc, p3

Knit ribbing rows 1 - 4 (1- 4; 1 - 4 and 1 & 2; 1 - 4 and 1 & 2; 1 - 4 and 1 & 2). Transfer work back to your 16" size US 10 needle. Now we're going to be working back and forth from the break, although we'll continue to use circular needles. We're going to begin with some decrease rows, as follows. If you're knitting the toddler or the 4 - 6 size, you'll begin with Decrease Row 1. If you're knitting any of the larger sizes, begin with Decrease Row 3.

Decrease Row 1 (wrong side): k3, p6, k2, purl until you have 11 stitches left in row, k2, p6, k3

Decrease Row 2: k1, p2, k2, slip 2 wyib, k2, p2, ssk, knit until you have 13 stitches left in row, k2tog, p2, k2, slip 2 wyib, k2, p2, k1

Decrease Row 3: k3, p2, slip 2 with yarn in front (wyif), p2, k2, purl until you have 11 stitches left in row, k2, p2, slip 2 with yarn in front (wyif), p2, k3

Decrease Row 4: k1, p2, bc, fc, p2, ssk, knit until you have 13 stitches left in row, k2tog, p2, bc, fc, p2, k1

Knit decrease rows 1 - 4 until you have 54 (58; 62; 66; 70) stitches left on your needle. Then resume the main pattern, which you'll find below, beginning with the appropriate row (e.g. if you reached your stitch count on Decrease Row 2, you'll begin with Row 3 of the pattern below).

Row 1 (wrong side): k3, p6, k2, purl until you have 11 stitches left in row, k2, p6, k3

Row 2: k1, p2, k2, slip 2 wyib, k2, p2, knit until you have 11 stitches left in row, p2, k2, slip 2 wyib, k2, p2, k1

Row 3: k3, p2, slip 2 with yarn in front (wyif), p2, k2, purl until you have 11 stitches left in row, k2, p2, slip 2 with yarn in front (wyif), p2, k3

Row 4: k1, p2, bc, fc, p2, knit until you have 11 stitches left in row, p2, bc, fc, p2, k1

Knit rows 1 - 4 until portion above the neck ribbing measures 8.5" (9.5"; 10.5"; 11.5"; 12.5") and you've just finished row 1 of the pattern. Bind off loosely and then seam, or bind off and seam at the same time with a three needle bind off. Tuck in ends and block.






42 comments:

  1. This is so adorable! I don't have any kids of my own (wish I did) - but I can think of some nieces and nephews that could wear it!!

    Linda in VA

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    1. Thanks Linda! And this would definitely be a nice winter gift for a little one - it's quick-knitting and cute! :)

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  2. Thank you for sharing. Very cute pattern.

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  3. Will you send me the model please? What a smile!

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    1. He would love to ride in a box! And he picked the main picture for the pattern - INSISTED, in fact. :)

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  4. I'm working on this right now; am doing the decrease rows. Puzzled as to how the hole for the face is going to be made and the hood itself. Is something missing?

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    1. Hi there!

      I'm not sure if something is missing, but if you don't have a hole then perhaps you skipped the instruction to begin working back and forth rather than in the round? That's how the face hole is made, after all, and it turns into a hood once you seam it at the top. Hopefully that helps! :)

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  5. So if you start working back and forth to make the hole for the face, at what point do you go back to working in the round to finish it? I see where it says to work back and forth but I didn't really know I guess how to do that on a circular needle. 😫

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    1. Hi again!

      You will never go back to knitting in the round, since the top is seamed. :) And you work back and forth on a circular needle by treating each end as if it's its own needle - you simply take out your row marker and turn the work around rather than proceeding in the round when you reach that part. The reason you still need your circulars is because, especially at first, you simply wouldn't be able to transfer the work to straight needles without stretching out the neck. I hope that helps! :)

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  6. It's all making sense now, I'm loving this pattern. One more question, when the pattern says to knit rows 1-4 until 9.5 inches above ribbing for size 4-6, is it talking about the ribbing done at the very beginning of the hat? Or the rows of ribbing that were done just before starting the hood?

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    1. Oh good! And it means the ribbing done before starting the hood. I'll update the pattern to clarify. :)

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  7. can this be modified to fit an adult.

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    1. Hi there!

      The pattern has two adult sizes as written; an adult small and adult large. Simply follow the directions in parentheses (either the last directions for the large or the second to last for the adult small). Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  8. Can you modify to fit 1 year old

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    1. Hi there!

      I can certainly write up a smaller size if you'd like, but this is a tighter-fitting hood and the practical side of me would just recommend knitting the toddler size since it will last longer. My 19 month-old likes to wear his brother's hood (pictured), and it fits differently (the cowl part goes over his shoulders), but it definitely still fits adorably. Let me know if you'd like to go ahead with a smaller size, though, and I'll help you with the mods. :)

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  9. I do not understand your gauge.Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches Don't we need the number of rows to make 4"

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    1. Hi Barb!

      Yes, gauge is often given as a square. However, since the instructions for this hat are given in inches (like, do this until the hat measures this), any difference in vertical gauge shouldn't matter. Let me know if you have any more questions! :)

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  10. Love the pattern. An thinking of knitting a toddler size for my soon to be 1 year old grandson. My concern is that because our winters are very cold..... Will the opening for the face be tight enough for the ears to be completely covered. I like the bear hat too but that opening definitely looks too loose.
    Thanks in advance.

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    1. Hi there! Of course that depends somewhat on the side of the child's head (in my experience, that's about the age they start getting a lot bigger), but my best guess is that this will work. If it seems too big, however, you could always pick up stitches along the face hole as well to make it more snug!

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  11. Hi! I love this pattern! I am making the adult size and am beginning the decrease row where I will no longer be knitting in the round but will work back and forth. I have completed the previous rows 1-4, 1-2. So I will start decrease row 3. However this appears to be a wrong side row and I am on the right side (have been all along since it is in the round). Can you please clarify for me? Thanks and again, this hat is adorable!

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    1. Hi there!

      First off, I totally understand your confusion; you're right that everything has been a right side row up until this point! :) However, now that you're working back and forth, you're going to stop knitting in the round and create a break in the pattern where your row marker was. To do this, you will simply turn your work around and begin on that wrong side row (row 3) rather than continuing to knit in the round. I hope that helps clarify things; if not, let me know! :)

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    2. Yes, I understand now. Thanks for your quick reply!

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    3. Wonderful! Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help! :)

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  12. Hi! I also love this hat!! I would be making it for s 2 yr. old. I know you mentioned about picking up stitches around the face if too loose. Is there any way to give me a few pointers on how this is achieved?! Not very familiar with picking up stitches!! I'd hate to make this hat and have it be too big for his face. Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated!!

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    1. Hi there!

      First off, if you're making the toddler size it should be good for a two-year-old! :) However, if you're concerned then you can simply do some measuring & math - specifically, use your fabric tape to measure around the child's face to determine how you'd like the hat to fit around the face. Then, you have two choices - first, you could adjust the pattern to be the right size (as written, the face hole will be roughly 17" around - you can adjust the size by knitting to a measurement bigger or smaller than 8.5" as you see fit. Then you will have to pick up the correct number of stitches around the hole by simply double-checking your gauge and doing the calculation for how many stitches you need for the length). Second, you can skip the step of adjusting the length and instead just pick up slightly fewer stitches around the face hole if you want it to be smaller (for instance, if you pick up 3 stitches fewer the face hole will be just under an inch smaller in total, so more like 16").

      Oh, and as far is the actual technique is concerned - here's an overview of it here: http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/picking_up_stitches

      Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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    2. Thank you sooo much! Got my yarn today and I'll start this evening!!!!

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    3. Great! I'll keep my fingers crossed that everything goes well!!! :)

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  13. Perfect! Just the patterns I was looking for. Thank you x

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    1. Good to hear! :) Let me know if you have any questions!!!

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  14. To make one for a 1 year old or younger could we not just use finer yarn and smaller needles?

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    1. Hi Carol!

      Yes you could! :) If you're interested in trying and need help with the conversion, let me know what age child you're making it for and I can help!

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    2. Knit ribbing rows 1 - 4 (1- 4; 1 - 4 and 1 & 2; 1 - 4 and 1 & 2; 1 - 4 and 1 & 2). Transfer work back to your 16" size US 10 needle. Now we're going to be

      I have a question_ ON ribbing rows 1-4 above - do I do the rows 1-4 listed outside the parentheses plus the stuff listed inside the parentheses or only the instructions inside the parentheses??

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    3. Hi there!

      The parentheses are there to give directions for the different sizes, so it really just depends on which size you're making! If you're making the smallest, though, just go with rows 1 - 4 once. :)

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  15. I'm hoping to use a nice wool roving - it's listed as "Bulky - 5" w 15 stitches and 20 rows to get a 4" square - and wanted to make the Adult Small - am I going to have to increase the needle size and decrease the # of stitches? If so, can you advise?

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    1. Hi there!

      That yarn is already basically the right size, so you don't have to do much modification! My suggestion is to use needles one size smaller than recommended and check gauge; I think you'll be ready to go as written! :)

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    2. Thanks so much, Gretchen, I'll go for it! :) Thank you!

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    3. Great! Let me know if you have any other questions, or if that doesn't work out! :)

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  16. Hi Gretchen, I am making the Adult large and cast on 82 stitches as shown. However, when I get around to the last 13 stitches I find I will have 4 knit stitches together as I start the last 13 stitches thus breaking the k2 p2 rib pattern. Is this correct, or should there be either 80 or 84 stitches to start?

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    1. Oh my gosh, you're totally right! I actually can't believe how many projects I've seen for this pattern without this coming up before. :) Anyway, I apologize, and I'll fix it. I think casting on 80 would be perfect (although of course you can go with 84 if you want it to be extra large).

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    2. I went up to 84. I haven't gotten to the second round of ribbing quite yet, but I think 84 will work for me. I may do another one at 80 to see the difference. Thanks for the reply!

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    3. Wonderful! Let me know if you have any more questions!!! :)

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