All in the Family Earflap Hat

All in the Family Earflap Hat
Child Size

Although I've made hats of many other silhouettes, a reader recently reminded me that I had yet to post an earflap. And this reminder instantly reminded me of yet another thing - namely, that the last time I made an earflap hat, I had far fewer knitting techniques in my toolbox, and ended up having to cobble together a hat, some flaps, and some weird cast-ons with a crocheted edging, to hide the mess. Now that I've progressed, however, I designed this All in the Family Earflap Hat with a basic but rather elegant design that uses a provisional cast on for a seamless, nicely finished look. Plus, it doesn't require any crocheted hoo-ha for the edging (although of course you're welcome to crochet as much hoo-ha as you like; no judgment here). Also, as a note, I should mention that, though I very much enjoyed this yarn, I found the gauge recommendations to be WAY off. Thusly (and especially with a basic stockinette hat such as this), I highly recommend that you check your gauge before accidentally knitting a hat that would fit the Jolly Green Giant better than your kid.

Sizes: Toddler (Child; Small Adult; Large Adult) (in measurements, and roughly, the toddler size should fit an 18" - 19" inch head, the child a 19.5" - 21" inch head, the small adult up to a 21" head, and the large adult up to a 23" head)

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca (50% Alpaca, 50% Wool; 215 yards [198 meters]/100 grams); #6288 Blueberry Mix - 1 skein

From the side.

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 8, and one 10 or 10 1/2 needle for the provisional cast on

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! Using your largest needle and a provisional cast on, cast on 70 (77; 77; 84) stitches. Then, transfer stitches to your size 8 circular needle, place marker, and join in round. Knit until piece measures about 5.5" (6"; 7.5"; 8"), and then we'll begin the decreases, as follows. Remember to switch to your dpns once you're down to about 60 stitches.

Decrease Row 1: * k5, k2tog; rep from *

Decrease Row 2: knit

Decrease Row 3: * k4, k2tog *

Kids' Banana Beanie

Kids' Banana Beanie

The baby is 6 months old now, so I figured it was high time he made his debut. And what better way to do it than sporting a chunky weight baby hat that can be sized all the way up to 12 years (he's wearing the 9 month size, though - I just couldn't bring myself to knit something he would outgrow immediately)? Anyway, there's not really much else to say about this piece, except for the fact that it's a quick and easy knit, and that its subtle pattern is oh-so-cute.

Sizes: 6 months (9 months; 12 months; up to 3 years; up to 12 years) (to be clearer on sizes: the 6 month will fit up to a 16" head, the 9 month a 17" head, the 12 month an 18" head, the 3 year a 19" head, and the 12 year up to a 21" head)

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6122 Banana - 1 skein, plus roughly 10 yards of contrasting color, if desired for pompom

A better shot of the pattern,
And the pom pom.

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 10, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 10

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches on size 10 needles

So let's get started! First, as a side note, I knit this entire hat with my size 10 needles. However, you could cast on and knit the first five-ish rows with a size 9, if you desired, for a bit of extra snugness at the bottom of the hat. And now that the note is out of the way - using the 16" circular needle of your desired gauge, cast on 52 (56; 60; 64; 68) stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit one set-up row, like so:

Set-up Row: * k3, p1; rep from *

And once that's done, let's move straight to our main pattern, which goes as follows:

Row 1: * k1, p1 *

Rows 2 & 4: * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back, k1, p1 *

Row 3: * k3, p1 *

Super Slouch Hat

Super Slouch Hat

Some of you asked, and now I'm delivering! The Super Slouch Hat is not just an airy puff of head-topping goodness, it's also knit entirely (wait for it... wait for it...) BACK AND FORTH! So yes, that means that this is the perfect hat for the dpn-adverse among you. It also doesn't have to be nearly as slouchy as it's shown in the picture - with one less pattern repeat and a smaller needle, this would make a more fitted but equally delectable hat. And hey, if you do it that way - take pictures, I'd love to see it!

Yarn: Berroco Folio (65% Superfine Alpaca, 35% Rayon; 219 yards [200 meters]/50 grams); #4502 Orr - 1 skein

The finish.

Needles: Size US 4 needles, size US 7 needles (or US 5 or US 6 for a less relaxed fit)

Notions: Tapestry needle, 8 stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 5 needles

So let's get started! First, then, using your size 4 needles, cast on 114 stitches loosely (if you want to be extra clever, leave a tail long enough for seaming later). Then we'll knit the following ribbing rows, to create the bottom edge of the hat:

Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from *

Ribbing Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 *

Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1 1/4" and you've just finished row 1 of the pattern. Now it's time to switch to our size 7 needles (size 5 or 6 needles if you'd like a more fitted hat) and knit one set-up row to place our extra markers, which goes as follows:

Rose Briar Bag

Rose Briar Bag

I'll admit it; my reasons for designing this Rose Briar Bag are totally self-serving. Namely, I think it will make a nice holiday gift, when the time comes. Of course, it has other nice details as well, such as the triangular base (it's knit bottom-up) and the lace stripes. As pictured, it's also finished with a three needle bind off to attach the handles, although you're welcome to seam them instead.

Yarn: Lily Sugar 'n Cream (100% Cotton; 120 yards [109 meters]/70.9 grams); #01322 Lilac - 3 skeins

A closer look

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 7, size 10 or larger needles for provisional cast on, and one 24" circular needle in size US 7 (recommended but not required)

Notions: Tapestry needle, four stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

First and foremost, let's knit some handles! So, using your largest needles and a provisional cast on, cast on 11 stitches (if you plan to seam this bag rather than use the three needle bind off to attach the handles, you don't need to use a provisional cast on). Then switch to whichever set of size 7 needles you want to work back and forth on and knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 & 3 (wrong side): p11

Set-up Row 2: k11

Horseshoe Cable Muffler

Horseshoe Cable Muffler

Where do I start with this one? How about at the very beginning, back when my sister and I were wee little girls and loved to play nothing more than "Old Days," where we dressed up in Little House on the Prairie-worthy thrift store clothes and pretended to be princesses-turned-scullery-maids, or occasionally scullery-maids-turned-princesses. And how is this relevant? Well, because the Horseshoe Cable Muffler is exactly the type of piece that we would have relished back then, with its rustic color and snuggly, old-timey aesthetic. Of course, this cowl/scarf isn't just relegated to the past, as you can dress it up three different ways for a very modern look. As a note, however, if you're planning to use it mainly as a scarf, you will need extra yardage of your yarn and you'll want to continue the piece longer than I made it for the best effect.

The end of the muffler.

Yarn: Skacel Alpaca Seta (75% Baby Alpaca, 18% Silk, 7% Nylon; 137 yards [125 meters]/50 grams); #11 Lemon Grass Twist - 2 skeins

Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 6, two double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 6, and a size US 8 or larger needle for your provisional cast on

Notions: Tapestry needle, cable needle (cn), stitch holder

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started!

Using a provisional cast on and your larger needles, cast on 38 stitches. Then switch to your size 6 needles and we'll move straight to our pattern. You'll need the following terminology to continue:

cable front (cf): transfer next 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

Ruched Shawlette

Ruched Shawlette
(According to my spellchecker,
I made up both of those words)

The story of this item is simple - I received a box full of beautiful homespun yarns as a gift, and this particular yarn told me exactly what it wanted me to do with it. Namely, it wanted to be made into a beautiful and simple triangle scarf (shawlette? I am still struggling with the vocabulary of this particular design). Whatever you call it, though, this is a perfect pattern for that gorgeous handspun you've had your eye on, one that's made especially nice by the column of ruching down the front of the piece. Blah blah blah, how about I stop talking now and start knitting instead?

Yarn: Homespun I received as a gift (100% Superfine Merino; 356 yards [326 meters]/?? grams); hand-dyed - 1 skein

The ruching. It's subtle in this yarn
but I promise it's there.

Needles: Size US 10 needles, 16" or longer size US 8 circular needle (for length, not for circular knitting), plus a size US 11 or larger needle for your provisional cast-on


Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 15 stitches = 4 inches

Using your size 11 or larger needle and the provisional cast-on technique, cast on 54 stitches. Transfer to your size 10 needles and proceed as follows:

Row 1: knit until there are four stitches left in row, k2tog, k2

Rows 2 & 4: k2, purl until there are two stitches left in row, k2

Row 3: knit

Knit rows 1 though 4 until you have 38 stitches left on your needle and you've just completed row 4 (if you have yarn to spare, you could continue these four rows longer. As is, the piece measures 52" across. Each additional time you repeat these four rows before moving on to the next set will add about 1/2" to the finished length). Anyway, when you're ready, we'll proceed as follow:

Gradated Rib Leg Warmers

Gradated Rib Leg Warmers

I had the idea for these leg warmers ages ago, and then got distracted by too many other projects to make them happen. Since I had already bought the yarn, however, I finally got to them this last week. And what sets these guys apart is that they actually use two different weights of yarn, as well as a number of different needle sizes, in order to create a small-to-large-to-small-again gradated look. Of course, you could just as easily knit them with a single weight of yarn, with or without the needle size changes (well, you'd definitely want to change needle sizes for the ribbing, but skip the changes for everything else). This pattern is also easy to size, as long as you add or subtract a multiple of four. As written, the pattern is sized to be about 12" around at the top and bottom, and each four stitches added or subtracted will change the size by about 3/4".

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #802 Green Apple - one skein (size A), Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Aran (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 150 yards [137.5 meters]/100 grams); #802 Green Apple - one skein (size B)

A close up. This pattern uses eyelets and twisted stitches
for a very deep ribbing.

Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size 5, one set of dpns in size 7, one set of dpns in size 8, and one set of dpns in size 10


Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles for size A yarn, 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles for size B yarn

So let's get started! First, using your size 5 needles and your size A yarn, cast on 60 stitches (or 56, or 64, or whatever multiple of four you need to get the size you want) and distribute evenly between 3 dpns (just make sure you have a multiple of four stitches on each needle). Join in round. Then, we'll work the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Notched Front Cowl

Notched Front Cowl

At this point, I imagine that everyone who looks at my patterns regularly has already figured out that I like to come up with new shapes for cowls. And I do, mostly because scarves have become impractical now that my children can use them to try to strangle me (unintentionally, of course). So the Notched Front Cowl is yet another entry into my new-shapes-for-cowls canon, and one that can be styled a couple of different ways (see below for pics). It's also a good design for those who have just begun to knit in the round, or who want more practice with basic increases and decreases.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sierra (80% Pima Cotton, 20% Merino Wool; 191 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #01 (White) - one skein


The back.
I would have done a close up, but I'm pretty sure you've seen
seed stitch before.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 101 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll go straight into a seed stitch for the first part of the pattern. Or in knitting terms, we'll proceed like so:

Row 1: k1, * p1, k1; rep from *

Row 2: p1, * k1, p1 *

Knit rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 3". It doesn't matter which row you end on. And now, we'll knit one transition row to place our extra markers, like so:

Stepping Stones Beanie

Stepping Stones Beanie

 

Buying this yarn was a no-brainer; I dig the Berroco Vintage line, and I will still swear that it's a lovely blend of gray and purple (even if my husband, and perhaps everyone else in the world, sees it as a lovely blend of gray and gray). However, it took me a long time to devise a pattern that seemed to suit it. Fortunately, I think the Stepping Stones Beanie takes advantage of both the yarn's weight and its variegation, and would also make a suitable hat for either gender. I would also love to see someone knit the main pattern in a larger needle - perhaps a 10 - to create an even slouchier design that really showed off the yarn overs (and if you do, I want pictures!).

 

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Colors (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 217 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5215 Smokestack - one skein

 

A closer view of the pattern.

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 6, one 16" circular needle in size US 8, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

 

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's make a hat! Using your size 6 circular needle, cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * p1, k2, p2, k2, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 8 times, and then switch to your size 8 circular needle (or a 10, if you want to make a slouchier hat. Let me reiterate: I want pictures!). Now, we'll move on to the main pattern, for which we'll need the following notation:

Star Cluster Mini Shawl

Star Cluster Mini Shawl

I was only a few rows into the Twin Leaf Cowl when I realized that I absolutely wanted to work with the yarn again, especially since it was on clearance at my local store and I didn't know how much longer it would be available. So I bought another color of the stuff, this (in my opinion) gorgeous red. Then, I held on to it for a few months until inspiration struck in the form of this scarf-like thing, the Star Cluster Mini Shawl. Long story short, I've had this item on my mind for a while, and I couldn't be happier about how it turned out! As a warning, however, this item does use a few intermediate techniques, such as a provisional cast on and some short rows.

Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Spray (100% Cotton; 153 yards [140 meters]/50 grams); #8 - two skeins

The pattern

Needles: Straight needles in size US 8, straight needles in size US 10 - 11

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 4 needles

To make this piece, we're going to begin in the middle, work one half, and then pick up stitches from the middle to work the other half again (by using a provisional cast on, not by actually picking up stitches). So, using your largest gauge needles and the provisional cast-on technique, cast on 71 stitches. Then switch to your size 8 needles and purl one row cross. Once that's done, we'll begin our pattern, which features the Star Cluster from page 217 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and a decrease worked every odd row. First comes the terminology, and then the pattern.

Cluster 2 (c2): slip 2 stitches with yarn in back, bring yarn to front between needles, slip the same 2 stitches back to your left hand needle, pass yarn to back between needles, and then slip the same to stitches with yarn in back again

Chevron Market Bag

Chevron Market Bag

When I first considered the idea of making a bag like this one, I picked a lovely yarn that I knew would be perfect and started to design the thing in my head. Unfortunately, however, while I PICKED a yarn, I didn't actually BUY it, and it was gone by the next time I visited the shop. So the Chevron Market Bag is the redesigned version of my imaginary-yarn bag, not that you would know it in a glance. This bad boy turned out pretty striking on its own, after all, even if it might be a bit rainbow-y for some people's tastes (luckily, you can pick your own yarn!). Furthermore, while I knit this bag with a provisional cast-on and a three-needle bind off to attach the handles, I am providing two sets of instructions, one for a bag exactly like the one I made, and one for a bag that skips the provisional cast-on and seams the handles in place rather than attaching them with the three-needle bind off. So, it's your choice how you want to make it, and you'll find the second set of instructions following the first!

Yarn: Lily Sugar 'n Cream (100% Cotton; 95 yards [86 meters]/56.7 grams); #02739 Over the Rainbow - 4 skeins

A close-up of the chevron pattern

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 10 or 10.5, one 24" circular needle in size 7, one 16" circular needle in size 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

Let's begin with the handles! Using your largest gauge needles and the provisional cast-on technique (we'll be working back-and-forth for these guys, and using a three-needle bind off to attach them to the top of the bag so we want live stitches on either end of each handle), cast on 9 stitches. Transfer stitches to any of your size 7 needles and knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 & 3: knit

Set-up Rows 2 & 4: purl

Zigzag Ribbon Stitch Cowl

Zigzag Ribbon Stitch Cowl

There's only one way to intro this piece, and that's with an extensive discussion of the yarn. I knew I had been eyeing this particular fiber for awhile, but I didn't realize how long it had been until I finally bought it and brought it home. I say that, of course, because as much as I look for this yarn online, I can't find it. By the label alone, in fact, it appears to be the exact same yarn that I used for the Pretty Plum Cowl. But it isn't - it's lighter weight, and a different color. At the end of the day, then, all I can really tell you about this yarn is that it's a cotton bamboo blend that's more of a sport weight (even if the label calls it a dk).

And now that that's out of the way, let's talk about the pattern! Since I knit a lighter-weight yarn on slightly larger needles, the piece gets that nice stretched-stitch look. The subtle stitch pattern is also very suitable for both solids and variegated yarns, and adds nice texture to the piece. Furthermore, although this piece is knit back-and-forth, it's seamless, and is joined by a provisional cast-on and a Kitchener stitch graft. This gives the mesh neck even more delicacy, and really suits the airiness of this cowl!

Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Cotton Bamboo Batik (50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #95 - one to two skeins (I got by with one)

Close-up, for your viewing pleasure

Needles: Size 6 straight needles

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches on size 4 needles

So let's get started! We're going to begin this piece with a provisional cast-on, instructions for which you can find here. So, using this technique, cast on 20 stitches. Then, knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Row 1 (right side): knit

Set-up Row 2: purl

And once that's done, we're going to work the following row until the piece measures about 8" long and you've just finished a wrong-side row. So here's how you'll proceed:

Neck Row: k1, * yo, ssk; rep from *, end k1

Twilled Stripe Hat

Twilled Stripe Hat

There's no doubt about it: I fell in love with this Twilled Stripe stitch pattern the first time I used it, in the Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers. But when I got the idea for this hat, which uses a combination of Twilled Stripes and dropped stitches, I thought that the combo might add a new dimension to the stripes. And, indeed, this slouchy hat gives the stitch pattern a whole different look. Not that it wouldn't still match the arm warmers...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #8906 Blue Topaz - one skein

A closer view

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 7 (optional but recommended: one 20" or 24" circular needle in size 7)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

So let's get this thing going! Before we start, I should point out that the magic doesn't really happen with this hat until you start dropping stitches, so don't worry if it just looks like an oversized rib at first. And now that the disclaimer has been issued, let's begin! Using your size 5 circular needle, cast on 108 stitches, place in marker, and join in round. Then, we'll knit the following ribbing row.

Ribbing row: * p1, k2; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 6 times and switch to your size 7 16" circular needle. Now it's time to move on to the main pattern, which is a combination of Twilled Stripe from page 147 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and some stitches we'll drop later. There's only one notation note, which goes a little something like this:

Left Twist (lt): skip 1 stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop, then slip the skipped stitch purlwise onto right-hand needle, then slide the knit stitch off of the needle as well

And now that the ribbing is complete and we have our notation down, let's knit one set-up row and then begin the pattern! So first, we'll knit this bad boy:

Vertical Drop-Stitch Scarf

Vertical Drop-Stitch Scarf

As a much younger woman, I was obsessed with scarves. I made them, I bought them, and I received them as thoughtful gifts. Then I had kids, and all of my beautiful scarves became glorified teething rings and/or nooses (and I discovered the cowl). Nevertheless, when I found this yarn, I knew it was time to design my first-ever scarf, this Vertical Drop-Stitch number. As an added bonus, it even has an I-cord edging, so it's as polished as it is pretty.

Yarn: Berroco Weekend DK (75% Acrylic, 25% Peruvian Cotton; 268 yards [247 meters]/100 grams); #2924 Rhubarb - one skein

The end detail

Needles: Size 6 straight needles

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

Okie-dokie-o, let's get started! As I've mentioned, we will be working this scarf with I-cord edgings, and as you can probably tell from the pictures, we will be tapering the ends for the prettiness factor. So, before we get to the main pattern, we will cast on 8 stitches and then work the following set-up rows. Your I-cord edgings will consist of 3 stitches on either edge of the piece, and if you want a tutorial about the process, please go here. Basically, we will be slipping these stitches on the right sides and purling them on the wrongs; that's really all you need to do to create what looks like an I-cord. Anyway, did you get those 8 stitches cast on? Good, then let's continue like so:

Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): p3, k2, p3

Set-up Row 2: slip 3 wyib (with yarn in back), m1r, p2, m1l, slip 3 wyib

Set-up Row 3: p4, k2, p4

Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves

Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves

You know what? I'm not even gonna intro these fingerless gloves. And you know why? Because Rihanna can definitely do it better -- not only was her song "Diamonds" the inspiration for the name of the Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves, but her video has it all; finger tattoos, wild horses, and burning roses. It's almost like my eleven-year-old self directed this video, except I would have included more crying in the rain. Ah, to be young again...

Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses

A bit closer look at the pattern.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9496 Buttercup – one skein (both sizes)

Needles: one set of double-pointed needles in size US 7, one set of double-pointed needles in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

And now that we've gotten that out of our system, let's make some gloves! So, using your size 5 needles, cast on 38 stitches (44 stitches) and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 13 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 13 on your third (place 13 stitches on your first needle, 18 on your second, and 13 on your third). Join in round. Then, knit the following set-up row 4 times (as you can see, it's different for the two sizes, but I've also used parentheses in the instructions for the smaller size. That's to indicate that a direction is repeated, and will occur again in the notation. Just remember that the alternate larger instructions will always occur after the smaller instructions in each row, and not in the middle of them):

Set-up Row:  k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1 (larger size: (p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times)

Sunny Stripes Hat

Sunny Stripes Hat
... plus a very wiggly child...

Sometimes, I feel as if I'm trapped in an endless hat knitting cycle with my children; as soon as I finish a hat for one of them, the other one immediately gets jealous and demands yet another hat. Which is how the Sunny Stripes Hat came to be, in all of its stripe-y glory. And it's not just the stripes that make it fun; it's also the slip stitch accentuated finish, which make it look almost like the celestial body it's named for. Plus, it comes in all sizes, so you can knit one for every member of your family (pets excluded)!

Sizes: Small (Medium; Large) (Small is 7.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 20" circumference head - think pre-schooler to young elementary, unless the kid's got a huge noggin like my children; Medium is 8.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 22" circumference head - think older kid to teen to smaller-headed adult (this would be my size); and Large is 9.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 24" circumference head - perfect for my husband)

The finishing. Slipped stitches
give it an extra sunny feel.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #8906 Blue Topaz - one skein (color A), Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #2439 Gelato - one skein (color B)

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Before we begin, a quick note about sizing; as you may have noticed, I recommend medium for anyone between, like, 5 and adult. This is simply because most head growth occurs in the first couple of years, and, for instance, my five-year-old's head is only 1" smaller than mine in circumference and 1/2" smaller than mine crown-to-base-of-ear. Which means, yes, we would both wear the medium. Of course, not everyone's children have such monstrous heads, and the small size could fit a much older child. Finally, if you're knitting this hat as a gift and have no idea about sizing, I recommend large for most men, medium for most women and teens, and small for most everyone between 2 and 8 or so. Go up a size if they seem large-headed, or add 1/2" to 1" to the length. And now that we're all thoroughly confused, let's get started!

Colorblocked V Cowl

Colorblocked V Cowl

Guess what, dudes?!?! Today marks the publication of my 100th pattern (this one, of course), and to celebrate, I'm posting something I love so much that I'm even going to keep it. And not only is the Colorblocked V Cowl next-level cute, but it's also an excellent choice for your leftover yarns (in fact, I made it with the yarn remaining after I knit the Arrowhead Lace Cowl II and the Striped for Spring Cowl). So let's get right to it!

Update (10/23/14): As of today, you can also find back-and-forth instructions for this piece following the regular instructions (so that means no circular knitting at the top)!

Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Cotton Bamboo (75% Cotton, 50% Bamboo; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #64 Aqua - one skein (color A), Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3777 African Violet - 1 skein (color B); #3705 Heathered Pansy - 1 skein (Color C)

Here you can see the detail a few slipped
stitches adds

Needles: One 16" or 20" circular needle in size 6

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! Using your color A yarn, cast on 112 stitches, place marker, and join in round (please note that this cowl, when finished, will be just over 20 inches in circumference. This should accommodate most head sizes, since knit stuff stretches and all, but if you want instructions for a slightly larger piece, just hit me up. It's still ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com). Anyway, then you'll knit the following row to place your extra stitch markers:

Stitch Marker Placement Row: k1, (p1, k1) 27 times, place marker, p2, place marker, k1, * p1, k1; rep from * to end of round

And now, we'll move on to a seed stitch for the top band of this cowl, like so:

Row 1: p1, * k1, p1 * to first marker, slip marker, p2, slip marker, p1, * k1, p1 * to end of round

Striped Anemone Cowl

Striped Anemone Cowl

Since I've been on maternity leave (the baby is now over two months old! and so cute!), I've been trying to use up all of my leftover yarn instead of going out and buying more. So, although my soul is suffering serious separation anxiety after going so long without a trip to the yarn store, my odds-and-ends pile is getting slimmer and slimmer. And this particular cowl is knit with the leftovers from the Long-Slip Striped Table Runner. Luckily, I'm still not tired of knitting with this yarn, although at this point I have very little left.

Detail. It really does look like little sea anemones, no?

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jeannee (51% Cotton, 49% Acrylic; 111 yards [102 meters]/50 grams); #0023 (Lavender) - one skein (color A), #0006 (Sage) - one skein (color B), #0022 (Gray) - one skein (color C), & #0033 (Teal) - one skein (color D)

Needles: 16" or 20" circular needle in size 8

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Using your color A yarn, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Purl one row around. And now, it's time to begin our main pattern, which is a four-color, in-the-round variation on Anemone Stitch from page 131 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. As you'll notice when you're knitting it, your back seam will be very loose. The best way to combat this is by clipping the tail of each color yarn after you work it and knotting the tails instead of trying to carry them up the piece. Oh, and the pattern won't start looking good until you knit a few rows, so don't get scared if it looks weird at first! Anyway, let's proceed like so:

Row 1: using color B, * k1, (yo) twice; rep until *

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat - right side

My five-year-old picked out this yarn ages ago, and has been bugging me to make something with it ever since. And after rejecting my first two designs (what can I say? the kid knows what he wants!), this fun hat finally passed muster. Even better, the wrong side of the design is just as charming as the right side, so the child you knit it for can wear it either way!

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat - wrong side

Sizes: Ages 18 months - 3 years (Ages 4 - 6; Ages 7 - 10)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Fingering (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 273 yards [250 meters]/50 grams); #9430 Forest Green - one skein

Needles: 16" circular needle in size 3, one set of double pointed needles, also in size 3

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches

So let's do this thang! First, using your circular needle, cast on 128 (144; 144) stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit 1" (1.75"; 1.25") in a k1, p1 ribbing. And then we'll get right to the main pattern, which is Cocoon Stitch from page 131 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. As you can see, there is no difference in pattern between the three sizes. And here we go!

Arrowhead Lace Cowl II

Arrowhead Lace Cowl II

When I first bought this yarn, I had a certain idea of what to do with it. Then, of course, the minute I started knitting, I realized that this fiber was unsuited for my plan - although it drapes nicely in this particular piece, it was too stiff for my original design. And THEN I remembered how lovely the lace pattern from the original Arrowhead Lace Cowl was, and I knew I had a winner for this fiber. To create a more necklace-like appearance, I also decided to seam the stockinette portion at the back of this piece. This also keeps it a lighter weight for warmer weather!

The pattern, again.

Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Cotton Bamboo (75% Cotton, 50% Bamboo; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #64 Aqua - two skeins

Needles: 24" circular needle in size 4

Notions: Tapestry needle, five stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! First, cast on 181 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then, knit 10, place first extra marker, k71, place second extra marker, k19, place third extra marker, and then knit until the you have 10 stitches left in the round and place your final extra marker. Then, knit until end of the round. And once that's done, it's time to begin our pattern, which incorporates Arrowhead Lace from page 193 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. As a side note, I read somewhere on the Internet (wish I remembered where!) that you can straighten out your ssk's by knitting the ssk stitch through the back loop when you come to it on the next round. I used that technique. You can too, if you want! Anyway, we'll proceed as follows:

Wickerwork Hat

Wickerwork Hat

I stumbled across this yarn in my stash the other day and I realized that it would make the perfect gift for a friend who's about to move away. So I got right down to work and created this fun Wickerwork Hat, complete with pompom (there is a photo of it without the pompom below, in case you want to see it without). It would also make a great stash-busting holiday gift, since I think most of us have at least a skein or two of worsted-weight wool hanging around!

* Note: As of November 2, 2015, I have added a chart to this pattern using the ever-wonderful chart generator here. You can find it below. Please note, however, that I had to do some funky stuff with the charting to make it work (it should all be explained in the chart graphic, but let me know if there's a problem. Also, let me know if there's a better way to chart any of my issues, and I'll fix it! :) )

Sans pompom. In a different color, this would
make a nice man-hat as well.

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure New Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #202 (Cream) - one skein

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 5, 16" circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

So let's get started! First, using your size 5 needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then, knit 1.5" in the following ribbing:

Ribbing Row: k1, * p2, k2; rep from *; end p2, k1

And once that's done, we'll switch to our size 8 needles and our main pattern, which is Wickerwork Pattern from page 146 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. For this pattern, we'll need the following notation (you can find videos for the techniques below them):

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

How to Make a Yarn Pompom

I'm getting ready to post a hat that needs a pompom, so I figured that it was finally time to suck it up and write out some pompom-making instructions. And while I know there are many methods, this is the one I think works best. So let's get started!

1. Notice my circles aren't perfect. They don't need to be!

1. Cut out two cardboard circles that are roughly 3” in diameter, and cut a 1” hole in the middle. As you’ll notice, exact precision isn’t necessary. You can also cut bigger or smaller circles, depending on how big you want your pompom to be (this one will be a shy two inches, since that's the difference between your outer circle and your inner circle, and it shrinks a little with the tight wrapping. If you make a mondo pompom, you'll want to cut a bigger center hole, since you'll need a boatload of wrapping to make it look right).

2. And now, start wrapping that sucker up!

2. Thread a long tail (3+ yards, or as much as you’re willing to use, really) of yarn on your tapestry needle, and then, holding your two cardboard pieces together, loop through center hole repeatedly, with some care not to get your end tangled up in the loops.

Long-Slip Striped Table Runner

Long-Slip Striped Table Runner

I'm not exactly sure why I decided to knit a table runner, but I think it was some combination of wanting to create a non-wearable knit for summer and NOT wanting to knit four whole placemats (if the baby won't even let me knit more than one coaster, you know a gaggle of placemats will never happen). Whatever my inspiration was, however, I totally dig the end result - colorful, cheerful, and functional, this table runner is a great choice if you want to keep knitting through the summer but don't want to make winter-y items. It would also make a lovely gift, if Christmas knitting is already on your mind...

A close-up of the pattern. So stripey!

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jeannee (51% Cotton, 49% Acrylic; 111 yards [102 meters]/50 grams); #0023 (Lavender) - two skeins (color A), #0006 (Sage) - one skein (color B), #0022 (Gray) - one skein (color C), & #0033 (Teal) - one skein (color D)

Needles: Straight needles in size 8, at least a 24" circular needle in size 6 (there's no circular knitting here, but you will need something long to pick up stitches along the edge of the runner)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Using your color A yarn and your size 6 needles, cast on 53 stitches loosely. Then, work the following rows:

Set-up Rows 1 - 9: using color A, k1, * p1, k1; rep from *

Eiffel Tower Eyelet Cowl

Eiffel Tower Eyelet Cowl

So, there's not too much I need to explain about this cowl, except that it accomplishes the impossible; it makes me love both a purl-background fabric and the freakin' garter stitch, which I typically avoid like the plague (and yes, it's completely irrational how much I dislike garter stitch. I apologize to those of you who love it). It's also a simple enough design to look good with a variegated yarn, although I imagine it would pop even more with a single-color fiber. Anyway, let's cut the chitchat and head to the pattern instead!

A detail shot. See the tiny towers???

Yarn: Berroco Boboli Lace (42% Wool, 35% Acrylic, 23% Viscose; 350 yards [320 meters]/100 grams); #4366 Fondant - one skein

Needles: 24" circular needle in size 6, 20" circular needle in size 6

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! First, then, using your 24" needle, cast on 192 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. And now, we'll work the bottom border, which is Swiss Ribbing from page 340 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. Or in knitting terms, let's begin like so:

Rows 1 - 4: * k3, p3; rep from *

Rows 5 & 6: * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), k1, p3 *

Little Ladders Coasters

Little Ladders Coasters. Er, coaster...

I suppose I should begin this post with a clarification; despite the fact that I called it "Little Ladder Coasters," I only actually knit one (the yarn is leftover from the Mirage Cowl, in case you're wondering. And I could have knit many, many more). Anyway, it turns out that knitting with a new baby is not easy, and one single coaster has now become an entire week's worth of knitting. Luckily, one is all you need if you're drinking alone!

Some pattern detail... with terrible color! Whoops.

Yarn: Regia Angora Merino (65% New Wool, 25% Polyamide, 10% Angora; 219 yards [200 meters]/50 grams); #7080 Fuchsia - one skein (color A) & #7083 Teal - one skein (color B)

Needles: Straight needles in size 2

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches

Using your color A yarn, cast on 30 stitches loosely. Then, we'll work the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 - 3: using color A, * k1, p1; rep from *

Set-up Row 4: using color B, knit