Wednesday, March 9, 2016

She's A Betty Bonnet

She's A Betty Bonnet
She's A Betty Bonnet
Isn't she, though?

When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way.

Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins

She's A Betty Bonnet
A closer view of the back finish.
It's different, no?
Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11

Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles

So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 *

Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows:

Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8

And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well):

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)



And once you have that down, we'll continue like so:

Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches)

Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them 

Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches)

Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them

Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows:

Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them

Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times

Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them

Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1

Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows:

Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches)

Decrease Row 2: knit

Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches)

Decrease Row 4: knit

Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches)

Decrease Row 6: knit

You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now...

Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches)

Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches)

Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches)

Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches)

Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches)

Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches)

Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.

She's A Betty Bonnet

She's A Betty Bonnet

She's A Betty Bonnet

She's A Betty Bonnet

She's A Betty Bonnet

She's A Betty Bonnet

46 comments:

  1. I love your designs, but this one is the best of the bunch. Super, super cute. Definitely on my to-do list.

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    1. Glad you like it! I struggled over this one a bit, but was very happy with how it finally turned out!!! :)

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  2. I'm an idiot and just accidentally deleted a comment on this post... so, Kimmy, if you see this, know I appreciated your kind words and am always here to help! :)

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  3. Thank you for sharing your lovely pattern! I can't wait to make it.
    Have a great weekend!
    Toni

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    1. Thank you! I'm glad you like it! :) And please, let me know if you have any questions.

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  4. My new favourite hat! Thank you!!

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    1. I had to frog it a few times to get it right, but I was very pleased with the way it turned out. Glad you like it too! :)

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  5. Love this hat pattern! I already knitted 2 for my granddaughters. Thank you so much! I am hooked on your site and have knitted many of your hat patterns. Have you thought of creating a pattern for a baby cocoon? I knitted a few, but I just know that I would love whatever pattern you came up with.

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    1. I'm so glad to hear that you're enjoying this pattern, and others! And yes, I've totally thought of a baby cocoon (you're talking a newborn photo prop, yes?). I've just missed the opportunity on all of my actual kids, although I do know a newborn photographer or two that I might hit up for photos if I still do! :)

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  6. I would like to make this with a different yarn. Do you know how I could adapt the pattern for a worsted weight yarn?

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    1. I am happy to take a stab at an adaptation, if you'd like, but you would definitely be the test subject for the decrease since this design is quite different from the standard. Or in other words, I can't guarantee I'll get the look of the decrease in a lighter gauge yarn 100% right the first time, but if you're willing to take the chance and/or rip back and get in touch again for modifications, I'm happy to try. Let me know what you think! :)

      Oh, and I do have one worsted weight bonnet out there that you may or may not know about - the Iris Bloom Bonnet, here: http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/2015/02/iris-bloom-bonnet.html

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  7. Thank you so much for the great, great patterns that you share with us. I just have a question...can you please explain the slip marker? Do you just slip that stitch onto the other needle?

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    1. Hi there! Glad you like the pattern! And the stitch marker is just there so you don't have to count your stitches every row. So yes, when you reach it just slip it from one needle to the other without knitting it or working it in any way... Then when you're done using it you can just remove it, but it will save you a lot of counting along the way!

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  8. So I just finished this pattern. I made a little change, put Lion Brand Pompoms on the end instead of the tassels. I'm definitely going to try more of your patterns! <3

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    1. Glad to hear it worked out well!!! :) And please, let me know if you ever have any questions!

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  9. I made this darling hat. I love it. Thank you.

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    1. Yay! So glad to hear it. Glad everything worked out!!! :)

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  10. I have a question, when it says to "Knit rows 1 - 4 three times," do you mean knit it three times more, or just two more times since I have already completed rows 1-4 once already?

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  11. Three times in total! :) Let me know if you have any other questions!!!

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  12. I'm fascinated by the shaping in this pattern, and grateful for all the photos too! I've gotten to the point where you join in the round, but I'm not sure what you mean by "swap first and last stitches". I'm thinking it means to start the round one stitch later by putting the the last stitch on the right needle. I have to use the loop method because I couldn't find 16" circular needles in any of the jumbo sizes.

    Thank you for publishing this brilliant pattern!

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    1. Hi there!

      Glad you like the pattern! :) And really all I mean is that you should join the hat in the round using this swap method: http://www.dummies.com/crafts/knitting/designs-patterns/avoid-a-gap-at-the-join-in-circular-knitting/

      Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  13. Thank you very much! It´s amazing, I love it! Kisssssses and knitting forever!

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    1. Yyyyyyaaaaayyyyy I'm so happy you're happy! Kisses and knitting is right!!! :)

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  14. Hi Gretchen! What size is this pattern designed for? I would love to knit it for my 5yo niece... The yarn I have and I was hoping to use is a lot thinner than the one you suggested (Heartland medium - 251yd/230m/5oz, Lion Brand).
    Is it all (size and yarn) too different that it's better just try another pattern instead?
    Thank you!!

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    1. Hi there!

      First off, sorry for my delayed response - somehow I didn't get an email about your comment! Anyway, I actually think that you could use that yarn and the recommended needles (looks like a US 9 for the main pattern and probably US 7 or 8 for the ribbing) and this pattern, written exactly as is, and produce something that would be just about right for a 5 year old! Of course, I can't *guarantee* success but if like the pattern and are willing to take the risk I think it would probably be worth it! :)

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  15. Thank you for the great pattern! Knitted it twice for my daughter and me! :-)

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    1. That's so lovely to hear! I'm glad that you enjoyed it. :)

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  16. Hey there, I am getting brave and turning this pattern in to a scoodie (instead of tassels, I have a long, skinny scarf). You mention that you completed in one scein but barely. Did that include the tassels? Trying to use up the full two sceins of the awesome mecha and want to make sure I don’t cut myself short by being overly greedy with the scarf length. Thanks!

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    1. Cool, that sounds fun! And yes, that included tassels. Can't wait till hear how yours turns out! :)

      Also, you could always think about starting with a provisional cast on, finishing the hat, and then going back to the scarf part. :)

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  17. HELP, I don't do circular needles at all. Afraid. Can I do this beautiful hat flat all the way IF YOU HELP

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    1. Hi there!

      I would love to be able to help but unfortunately I'm not sure how to adjust the finish (with the grafting and all). Apologies! :)

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  18. Thank for your guiding. I had done this, but then i had done wrong side.😂

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  19. This is definitely going to be my next project, I love ❤️ this x

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    1. Wonderful, let me know if you have any questions! :)

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  20. Hi Gretchen
    Please can you share this with straight needles. Thanks
    Rachna

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    1. Hi there!

      I would love to be able to help but unfortunately I'm not sure how to adjust the finish (with the grafting and all). Apologies! :)

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  21. Hi Gretchen we do not get yarns here that use 10.5 and 11 needles so how many stitches would I need for the yarn that works with Size 5 and 6 needles.

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    1. Hi there!

      I don't know the exact gauge of your yarn, but this is a simple calculation to make. Here we have 12 stitches per 4 inches, and we cast on 80 stitches.

      Therefore if we perform (80/12)x4, we'll know how wide in inches the project is at the cast on. Since (80/12)x4 is 26.6666, that's how wide it is.

      Once we know that, we can figure out how to adapt it for a different yarn weight. Assuming that your yarn is 22 stitches per 4 inches, then we can divide our width (26.666) by 4 and then times that value by 22 in order to determine how many stitches we need in the different yarn weight. In this case, 26.6666/4x22 = 146. Therefore you need to cast on 146 stitches in order to work this pattern in a yarn weight of 22 stitches per 4 inches.

      All of that being said, I'm no longer knitting and this isn't a pattern I feel comfortable rewriting for a different yarn weight without being able to test it, so I can't help you with the conversion of the pattern any more than that.

      Good luck!

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  22. Hermoso, por favor puedes hacer tutorial, seria grandioso

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    1. Me alegro que te guste el sombrero. Desafortunadamente no puedo tejer más debido, así que no puedo hacer un tutorial.

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  23. Hi! You can certainly do a k2, p2 ribbing if want; it looks the exact same except the ribbing as I wrote it lines up slightly better with the twisted stitches (that's why I wrote it slightly offset, you're correct that it's the same as a k2, p2 at heart). Hope that helps! :)

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  24. Lovely, thank you! I almost finished it. I like very much also your way of "telling" the pattern. Awesome!

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  25. İ'm writing from Türkiye. I know little english and don't understand. Please help me. I need video.

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    1. Hi, sorry, I can't make a video due to injuries. If there's a certain technique you're struggling with I can try to find a video to help though!

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