Wednesday, February 10, 2016

I'm Lichen This Hat

I'm Lichen This Hat
No, really. I'm really, really, REALLY lichen it.

If recent years have taught me anything, it's that I am one of about six Americans who would rather eat rocks than watch a televised singing competition. Of course, I do have one odd exception to my music-free reality television preferences, the always-delightful The Sing-Off (I'm also lying when I say it's always delightful - 2014's weird Christmas special was no good. I miss Sara Bareilles). What's my point here? OH YEAH, PUNS! I think I like the show because of the constant and terrible puns that are constantly coming forth from host Nick Lachey's mouth. And, based on the name I came up with for this pattern, I also think the nice folks on TV's best a cappella singing competition program might tap me as a writer if the show ever gets another season.

Speaking of this hat, I got the design idea from a strange, ruched-looking entrance way I pass by every day on my way to my kids' schools, but you're just going to have to take my word for it because I've been too lazy to take a picture. I did get a lovely shot of some similarly-colored lichen, though, which made for a better pattern name anyway. You can find that below!

Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #031 Mostaza - one skein

A better view of the back, cute little
braid and all!
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 10, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, one set of double pointed needles in size US 11, and a cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, 4 stitch markers

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles

Which brings us to the pattern! Using your size 10 circular needle, then, cast on 66 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a few edging rows, for which you'll need the following terminology. Remember you can always skip your cable needle, if you'd like.

back cross (bc): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in back; k2, k2 from cn

front cross (fc): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; k2, k2 from cn

And once you've got that covered, we'll continue like so:

I'm also lichen this lichen!
Edging Rows 1, 3, & 5: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, k6, p1

Edging Row 2: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, bc, k2, p1

Edging Row 4: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, k2, fc, p1

Knit edging rows 1 - 5. Transfer work to your size 11 circular needle. And then we'll move to the main pattern, which goes as follows. And, as a note, it's important to leave the yarn behind your six slipped stitches loose-ish, but it's not as important as it would be in mosaic knitting, so you don't need to stress about it too much! Anyway, let's work like so:

Row 1: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, bc, k2, p1

Rows 2 & 3: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, slip 6 with yarn in back (sl6 wyib), p1

Row 4: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, k2, fc, p1

Rows 5 & 6: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, sl6 wyib, p1

Knit row 1 - 6 four times, and then knit rows 1 - 4 once more. Now, we'll knit one marker placement row (which will also serve as a decrease row), as follows: 

Marker Placement Row: k1, ssk, k19, k2tog, place marker, k10, place marker, ssk, k19, k2tog, place marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (62 stitches)

Knit this row, and then we'll continue in our decrease as follows:

Decrease Row 1: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (-4 stitches)

Decrease Row 2: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, bc, k2, p1 (-4 stitches)

Decrease Rows 3 & 4: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (-4 stitches) 

Decrease Row 5: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, k2, fc, p1 (-4 stitches)

Decrease Row 6: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (-4 stitches)

Knit decrease rows 1 - 6 once, and knit decrease rows 1 - 3 once more, remembering to transfer work to your dpns once it gets too small for the circulars. Then we'll knit one final row, as follows, during which you can remove any extra stitch markers you may still have in place:

Final Row: k2, k2tog, k10, ssk, k2, p1, sl6 wyib, p1

Complete this final row, after which you should have 24 stitches left. Our next step will be to divide our remaining 24 stitches into two groups of 12. We'll do this by knitting the first two stitches of the next row, and then transferring the following 12 stitches to a dpn for grafting. Place remaining 12 stitches on a second dpn (and yes, this means that the end of your row will end up between the tenth and eleventh of those twelve stitches, and not at the end, and those first two knit stitches will be the last two stitches of these twelve). Using the Kitchener stitch, graft these final 24 stitches together. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. 






60 comments:

  1. So does that make #7 on that list? I'd rather stab out my eardrums with an ice pick than watch people butcher classics with endless trilling.

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    1. Yeah, most recently I tried watching the first season of the Voice (I realize that was like five years ago, but I'm still suffering flashbacks). Needless to say, that didn't last!!!

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  2. That is a great hat. A beautiful built in slouch! Thanks for sharing!

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    1. Yay! Glad you like it. I thought it was a fun idea! :)

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  3. Oh gosh!!! I can see why you're lichen it too. Awesome
    little pattern.
    Cheers, Anita.

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    1. Thanks Anita! I thought it was another fun thing to do with bulky yarn!!! :)

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    2. LOVE this hat! Can't wait to get some pretty wool and get started! Cold in Canada at the moment! Thanks for sharing!
      Am knitting The Rib Cable Hat right now. A great pattern!

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    3. Yay! Glad to hear you like it! And please, let me know if you have any questions about either pattern. I'm always happy to help!!! :)

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    4. What is the recommended wool weight for this hat?

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    5. Hi there! This is bulky/chunky weight yarn. And, just so you know, I do tag each pattern with this information as well - you can find it at the bottom of the post, where it says "labels." :)

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  4. You're no slouch when it comes to puns. Or cute hats!
    If you've nothing better to do with this hat, save it for me!

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  5. Gretchen, I adore this pattern! I have short hair and it looks cute even on me. Fun to make too!

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    1. Wonderful, I'm so glad to hear it! :)

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    2. Hi there! If you have 26 stitches left after the decreases just divide them into two groups of 13 and Kitchener them together. It's no problem! :)

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  6. Cannot wait to cast this on my needles; it's giving me more motivation to hurry up and finish a baby blanket. Great patter! Thanks!

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    1. Glad you like it! :) And glad I could provide motivation on the baby blanket - I always lose steam about 2/3rds of the way through those!!!

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  7. Love this hat. When slipping stitches are they done purl wise or knit wise? Thanks for all the lovely patterns.

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    1. Purlwise, so they don't get twisted! :) And let me know if you have any other questions!!!

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  8. So cute! I'm in the middle of it now but starting to run out of my skein. How many inches would you say it is before the decrease?

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    1. It's about 8" along the front of the hat (and less at the back, of course, since it gathers). Hope you make it! :)

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  9. Hi Gretchen, Really cute pattern! I'm just starting and I'm confused about the cable. There are 8 working stitches, 2 purl and 6 knit. But in the directions for the cable it slip 2, K2, then knit the 2 from the cable holder. That's 4. So now there are 2 K stitches before the purl. What am I doing wrong?

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    1. Hi Hope!

      Yes, the cable itself is 6 stitches, but it's a braid so you're only working 4 in each actual cable twist. When you find the bc and the fc in pattern, then, you'll also find them with a k2 indicated on one side or the other to account for all 6 cable stitches. Let me know if that doesn't make sense, or if you have any other questions!!!

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  10. I just love this hat! I made one for myself, but, unfortunately, I have a head the size of a small watermelon, and mine just kept inching it's way off. I have to say my 3 year old granddaughter looks adorable in it even though it's a tad large on her. You don't have an extra large version written up?

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    1. Not yet but I'm happy to work on one! How many extra inches in circumference do you think you need? :)

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    2. My head is 23" just above the ears. I've only been knitting for two years and so I figured I could just add stockinette in to accommodate the extra girth, but not so sure what to do at the top end. I'd love to be able to make one for me because it really is an adorable hat. This will be my fourth hat of your collection and I'm looking forward to many more. Thanks for all of your designs!

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    3. Ah ha, so the circumference is fine but it needs more length? That's an easy fix! When the pattern says, "Knit row 1 - 6 four times, and then knit rows 1 - 4 once more," go ahead and knit rows 1 - 6 six times, and then 1 - 4 once more instead. That should give you plenty of extra room to keep it on your head! Also, if it's just a little tight, you could always go up a needle size as well. That will make it just a tad bit slouchier! :)

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    4. I'll try this and see if that fix works. Thanks!

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  11. Do you think a recent high school grad would like this hat?

    I think it's cool, in a San Diego type of way. ;-)

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    1. I think this hat is definitely appropriate for that age range... and please, let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  12. Thanks so much for designing and publishing this awesome, awesome hat! I've made one and am taking it with me for my first visit to New York City next month. Actually, it's my first visit to the USA so I'm super excited. So, a big thank you from a fan in Melbourne, Australia!

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    1. Yay!!! I'm so glad you like it! And I hope you have a wonderful time in NYC... Eat some tacos for me!!! :)

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  13. "would rather eat rocks than watch a televised singing competition"
    OMG, I love you!! ....and the hat (which is how I found you, LOL)

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    1. I'm glad someone thinks I'm funny!!! And I really am serious about the rocks thing... ;)

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  14. Can you knit this pattern on straight needles not very good with circular knitting

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    1. Hi there!

      So I've looked at the pattern again and I think I *can* write it for straights, but it will include some funky details (like cabling on a wrong-side row and some weird stuff with the finish). If you're okay with that, let me know and I'll work it up! :)

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    2. I would love a straight needle version. Have 3 generations of straight needles; reluctant to start a new collection of rounds.

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    3. So it turns out that this hat is a bit of a mess flat, but I did my best! I haven't actually knit it this way, though, of course, so let me know if there are any problems. :)

      Needles: Straight needles in size US 10 and size US 11 needle, one set of double pointed needles in size US 11, and a cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle for cabling

      Notions: Tapestry needle, 4 stitch markers

      Which brings us to the pattern! Using your size 10 needles, then, cast on 68 stitches loosely. Then we'll work a few edging rows, for which you'll need the following terminology.

      back cross (bc): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in back; k2, k2 from cn

      front cross (fc): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; k2, k2 from cn

      And once you've got that covered, we'll continue like so:

      Edging Rows 1, 3, & 5 (wrong side): purl until you have 9 stitches left in row, k1, p6, k1, p1

      Edging Row 2: k1, p1, bc, k2, p1, knit until end of row

      Edging Row 4: k1, p1, k2, fc, p1, knit until end of row

      Knit edging rows 1 - 5. Transfer work to your size 11 needles. And then we'll move to the main pattern, which goes as follows. And, as a note, it's important to leave the yarn behind your six slipped stitches loose-ish, but it's not as important as it would be in mosaic knitting, so you don't need to stress about it too much! Anyway, let's work like so:

      Row 1 (right side): k1, p1, bc, k2, p1, knit until end of row

      Row 2: purl until you have 9 stitches left in row, k1, sl6 with yarn in front, k1, p1

      Row 3: k1, p1, sl6 with yarn in back, p1, knit until end of row

      Row 4: purl until you have 9 stitches left in row, k1, slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; p2, p2 from cn, p2, k1, p1

      Row 5: purl until you have 9 stitches left in row, k1, sl6 with yarn in front, k1, p1

      Row 6: k1, p1, sl6 with yarn in back, p1, knit until end of row

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    4. Knit row 1 - 6 four times, and then knit rows 1 - 4 once more. Now, we'll knit one marker placement row (which will also serve as a decrease row), as follows:

      Marker Placement Row (right side): k1, p1, sl6 with yarn in back, p1, k1, ssk, k19, k2tog, place marker, k10, place marker, ssk, k19, k2tog, place marker, k2 (64 stitches)

      Knit this row, and then we'll continue in our decrease as follows. Also, you can use a slip, slip, purl (ssp) or a p2tog-tbl wherever I've marked an ssp.

      Decrease Row 1 (wrong side): p2, slip marker, p2tog, purl until you're 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, slip marker, purl until you reach next marker, slip marker, p1tog, purl until you're 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, p1, k1, sl6 wyif, k1, p1 (-4 stitches)

      Decrease Row 2: k1, p1, bc, k2, p1, k1, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2 (-4 stitches)

      Decrease Row 3: p2, slip marker, p2tog, purl until you're 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, slip marker, purl until you reach next marker, slip marker, p1tog, purl until you're 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, p1, k1, sl6 wyif, k1, p1 (-4 stitches)

      Decrease Row 4: k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1, k1, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2 (-4 stitches)

      Decrease Row 5: p2, slip marker, p2tog, purl until you're 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, slip marker, purl until you reach next marker, slip marker, p1tog, purl until you're 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, p1, k1, slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; p2, p2 from cn, k1, p1 (-4 stitches)

      Decrease Row 6: k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1, k1, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2 (-4 stitches)

      Knit decrease rows 1 - 6 once, and knit decrease rows 1 - 3 once more. Then we'll knit one final row, as follows, during which you can remove any extra stitch markers you may still have in place:

      Final Row (right side): k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1, k2, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3

      Complete this final row, after which you should have 26 stitches left. Clip yarn tail, leaving about 3'. Using a tapestry needle, transfer remaining stitches to scrap of yarn to hold, making the break in the stitches (so where you begin/end transferring them) between the final k2tog and k3 of the final row (so inset by 3 stitches). Beginning at bottom of hat, seam to top. Our next step will be to divide our remaining 26 stitches into two groups of 13. We'll do this by transferring the first 13 stitches from your held stitches to a dpn for grafting (so these stitches should be the k1, ssk, k10, k2tog from your final row). Place remaining 13 stitches on a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft these final 26 stitches together. Tuck in ends and block, if desired.

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    5. Also, I had to post in two comments for space limitations. :)

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  15. Howdy. Love this Lichen hat. I'm wondering why the pattern calls for dpns. Wouldn't the cable needles suffice?

    K

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    1. Hi there!

      The reason you need dpns is because you decrease enough stitches that you can no longer fit them around your 16" circular (or you would stretch them out a lot if you tried). Of course if you prefer the magic loop you could use that instead of dpns, however!

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  16. Hello. Is 66 enough for cast-on? Seems small, even though I have a pin-head.

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    1. If your gauge is correct, it should be! With 12 stitches per 4 inches, 66 stitches should give you a 22" hat. :)

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  17. Hi, on your pdf you left off that you need to repeat decrease rows 1-3. It'd be cool if you correct that for people who print this off. I love this pattern. Thanks so much!

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    1. Glad you like the pattern! However, I don't have an official pdf... Did you use Printfriendly to make one?

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  18. I want t make this hat but I have worsted weight and not bulky. Any way to do that - double yarn? Change needle size? not possible?

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    1. Hi there! Try doubling the yarn, as you suggested... Do a test swatch, I can't promise it will work but it is at least possible! :)

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  19. Is this knit in the round from the bottom up? And, if I wanted a ribbed brim, would I just CO the 66 and rib and then begin with your "Row1" in the pattern?
    Thank You! This hat is so cute, I'd love to make it. Thanks for sharing.

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    1. Hi! Of course you can add a ribbed brim. You could just make a ribbing first, as you suggested, or if you want the back cable to run the whole length of the hat, you can also work the edging rows once or twice through, replacing the knit parts with ribbing but preserving the final 8 stitches in the row, since that's what makes the cable. :)

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  20. Thank you! I'm shocked I got a reply, lol. It may be the first time ever from a blog :^)
    Looking forward to making this hat.

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    1. Ha! Once in a while my comment notifications fail and I miss something but otherwise I always reply. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  21. I love this hat but I’m not an expert knitter. Would you consider doing a YouTube Instruction? I’m a visual learner!

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    1. Hi! I wish I could but I had to stop knitting due to injury. If there's anything specific you're struggling with I can try to find you a video to help though! :)

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  22. How would I go about knitting this in a worsted weight? I have a lovely hand-dyed merino yarn that this would be perfect for.

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    1. Hmm, with this particular hat that's going to be a bit complicated, as you would need to scale everything up (including the number of stitches in the braid) to try and maintain the proportions. I would start by getting gauge with your yarn and then doing the math to start to adjust stich count.... Finishing the top in the same way might require a little trial and error though!

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    2. Thanks so much! Argh, math!! ( I’lll see what I can do.) I would double it but I only have one skein. I love your patterns, by the way! Very cute.

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    3. Thank you! And yes, this one is an unfortunately math-y beast to convert. I do think you could probably do it with one skein though!

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