Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Minky Mittens

Minky Mittens

I've been plotting another pair of mittens for awhile now. In fact, I've been plotting them for so long that I didn't manage to complete them until our first spring-ish week here in Wisconsin (oops). While my timing is terrible, however, these mittens are not; made with a slip stitch color pattern, they are thick and warm, and can be sized from toddlers to adults. Now I just have to hope my kids don't grow out of them before next winter...

Sizes: Toddler (Child Small; Child Medium; Child Large/Adult Small; Adult Medium; Adult Large)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #1946 Silver Grey - one skein (color A), #810 Teal - one skein (color B for the toddler sized mittens) & #9863 Spring Meadow - one skein (color B for the children's small mittens)

The pattern. Plus an eye! Notice how the variegated color B
yarn changes the look of the mitten.
Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 5, one set of dpns in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

So let's do this thang! Using your size 5 needles and your color A yarn, cast on 30 (34; 36; 40; 44; 48) stitches and divide evenly between 3 dpns. Join in round. Then knit the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1.5" (1.5"; 1.75"; 2.25"; 2.25"; 2.5"). Then switch to your size 7 needles and knit one row around, still in your color A yarn. And once that's done, we'll work a few more rows before we gusset in the thumb, as follows:

Rows 1 & 2: using color B, * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib) *

Row 3: using color A, knit

Rows 4 & 5: using color B, * slip 1 wyib, k1 *

Row 6: using color A, knit

Knit rows 1 - 6 once (once; once; twice; twice; twice), and then we'll set up our gusseting rows, as follows:

Set-up Gusset Rows 1 & 2: using color B, * k1, slip 1 wyib * 

Set-up Gusset Row 3: using color A, m1r, place marker, knit until end of round

Set-up Gusset Rows 4 & 5: using color B, k1, slip marker, * slip 1 wyib, k1 *

Set-up Gusset Row 6: using color A, k1, m1r, slip marker, knit across remainder of stitches in row, place marker, m1l

And once you've completed these 6 set-up gusset rows, we'll continue with the main gusset rows, as follows:

Gusset Row 1: using color B, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, * k1, slip 1 wyib * until you reach next marker, slip marker, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 2: using color B, slip 1, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, * k1, slip 1 wyib * until you reach next marker, slip marker, knit until end of round (in case you're wondering, slipping that first stitch will help you create a jogless stripe)

Gusset Row 3: using color A, knit until you reach first marker, m1r, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, m1l, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: using color B, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, * slip 1 wyib, k1 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 5: using color B, slip 1, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, * slip 1 wyib, k1 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 6: using color A, knit until you reach first marker, m1r, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, m1l, knit until end of round

Knit gusset rows 1 - 6 until you've added 9 stitches (11 stitches; 13 stitches; 13 stitches; 15 stitches; 17 stitches) in total and you've just finished gusset row 3 or gusset row 6 of the pattern. Clip both yarn tails and, using a tapestry needle, transfer all added stitches from your first and third dpns to a scrap of yarn to work later. Remove markers. Then, we'll resume the main pattern, beginning with the stitches you have remaining on your first dpn, and joining the mitt back in the round at the thumb break. Please note: if you ended on row 6 of the gusset pattern, you'll begin the following main pattern rows on row 1. If, on the other hand, you ended on gusset row 3, you'll begin the main pattern below beginning at row 4. So let's continue like so:

Rows 1 & 2: using color B, * k1, slip 1 wyib *

Row 3: using color A, knit

Rows 4 & 5: using color B, * slip 1 wyib, k1 *

Row 6: using color A, knit

Knit rows 1 - 6 until piece measures roughly 2.5" (2.75"; 3.25"; 3.5"; 4"; 4.25") from the thumb break and you've just finished row 2 or row 5 of the pattern. Clip the tail of your color B yarn, and knit the following marker placement row:

Marker Placement Row: knit 15 (17; 18; 20; 22; 24) stitches, place marker, knit until end of round

And once that's done, let's move on to the decreases, which go as follows:

Decrease Row 1: ssk, knit until 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until 2 stitches before end of round, k2tog (26 stitches left (30; 32; 36; 40; 44))

Decrease Row 2: knit

Decrease Row 3: ssk, knit until 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until 2 stitches before end of round, k2tog (22 stitches left (26; 28; 32; 36; 40))

Decrease Row 4: knit

Decrease Row 5: (ssk) twice, knit until 4 stitches before marker, (k2tog) twice, slip marker, (ssk) twice, knit until 4 stitches before marker, (k2tog) twice (14 stitches left (18; 20; 24; 28; 32))

If you're knitting sizes toddler, child small, or child medium, do the final decrease row, as follows:

Final Decrease Row for sizes toddler, child small, and child medium: * k2tog * (7 stitches left (9; 10))

Using tapestry needle, thread through final stitches, pull tight, thread to inside of mitten and knot. 

If you're knitting sizes child large/adult small, adult medium, or adult large, continue like so:

Decrease Row 6: knit

Decrease Row 7: (ssk) twice, knit until 4 stitches before marker, (k2tog) twice, slip marker, (ssk) twice, knit until 4 stitches before marker, (k2tog) twice (-- stitches left (--; --; 16; 20; 24))

Final Decrease Row for sizes child large/adult small, adult medium, and adult large: * k2tog * (-- stitches left (--; --; 8; 10; 12)

Using tapestry needle, thread through final stitches, pull tight, thread to inside of mitten and knot. 

Finally, for all sizes, using your size 7 dpns and your color A yarn, pick up your thumb stitches again, taking care not to put a seam where the break in the stitches occurs (where you rejoined your glove in the round after removing the thumb stitches from your dpns). Knit around, picking up one extra stitch at the break, until thumb measures 1.25" (1.5"; 1.75"; 2"; 2.25"; 2.5"). Then knit the following row:

Thumb Decrease Row: * k2tog * 5 stitches (6 stitches; 7 stitches; 7 stitches; 8 stitches; 9 stitches)

Clip yarn tail and, using your tapestry needle, thread through remaining stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of them, and knot. Tuck in ends. Finally, as with all slipped stitch patterns, you may need to do some stitch-scootching at this point to achieve perfection.

My three-year-old in the toddler size.

My five-year-old in the small children's size





90 comments:

  1. How cool- I just found your post by searching for a mitten pattern on ravelry today- the same day you posted!
    Just wondering, do you know the palm circumference of each mitten size? I'm making mittens for my dad - 9" palm circumference. We live 8hrs apart, so unfortunately I can't have him try them on as I'm knitting.

    Thanks for the pattern :)

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  2. I was going to cast on for Adult Large, but I'm wondering if I'd need to cast on a few extra stitches.

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    1. Hello there!

      It sounds like I picked the right day to post this pattern. :) And the adult large should turn out around 9.5" in palm circumference, which sounds like it would work. If you're concerned that the slipped stitch pattern might narrow your gauge a bit, though, it's very easy to modify this pattern - simply cast on any multiple of 2, and then follow the directions for adult large for the thumb gusset. Adding another for stitches, for instance, would add almost another inch to the palm circumference (and adding another 2 would get you close to 10" around). Please let me know if you have any more questions!

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    2. Whoops! I meant "adding another four stitches," not "for stitches." Guess I should have proofread my response sooner! :)

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  3. Cute mittens on cute kittens...

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  4. These are beautiful!! Thank you for sharing!! I love patterns created by people with young children. They are usually the easiest to understand and best use of time. Thank you again!!! I can't wait to make these for my niece's twins!

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    1. Yay! Glad to hear you like them. And please, let me know if you have any questions. :)

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    2. Hi, I am making my 1st mittens and liked it minky so as an experienced knitter having trouble is true. Making smallest size
      ●row 3 set up gusset
      1.m1r done place marker done

      ● now have 2 sm
      1 at beginning of round
      2nd after M1R
      ☆is this correct

      ●row 4&5 says slip marker
      ☆ sounds like only 1 sm
      And row 3 sounds like 2 sm

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    3. Hi there!

      I made these mittens on dpns, so I did not have a stitch marker at the end of my row. Therefore, in rows 3, 4, & 5, I only had one stitch marker, the one I placed in row 3. If you have a second stitch marker, that's fine of course, but as the row marker it should of course always be slipped when you reach it. The marker you placed in row 3 is only there to help you keep track of your gusset, so it should also just be slipped whenever you reach it.

      Hope that helps! :)

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  5. Gretchen, I like mindless knitting while I watch TV. However, I want to knit these mittens for my two grandchildren. These will take more concentration, but I do not mind. I have knitted complicated projects over the years. Deborah Prather (Sailor Gir)

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    1. I have seen some amazing color combinations and designs for these on Ravely! The possibilities are endless. :)

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  6. Thanks a bunch for this pattern! I just made two pairs for my little girls. They will be perfect for the cold and snow that will soon be coming!
    And I love that you have written the pattern to included so many sizes! Thank you again and again for this beautiful free knitting pattern!!

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    1. I'm so glad that you enjoyed the pattern! My boys are still wearing theirs too. :) And please, let me know if you ever have any questions. I am always happy to help!

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  7. I love the look of the mittens and would like to make a few for my grandkids. Thanks for posting. I would like to know when you slip the stitch, do you slip knitwise or purlwise or does it make a difference?

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    1. Hi there!

      I'm glad to hear you like the pattern. :) And you should slip purlwise; slipping knitwise twists the stitch, which would give a different appearance. Let me know if you have any other questions!

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  8. Lovely pattern, I think I'll try it for my 2.5-year-old. What do you mean by stitch-scooching? Is there any way you could tell me in grams or ounces how much yarn the toddler size takes? I have some yarn leftovers and want to see if I have enough. Thanks!

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    1. Hi there!

      I would love to be more precise on the yarn amount, but I used leftovers too and I'm not quite sure how much it was. It definitely wasn't a lot, though - probably under 30 yards of each color? And by stitch-scootching, all I mean is that slipped stitch patterns can tug stitches out place a little - for instance, sometimes the top stitch in the little two-stitch stacks of each color will get tugged out until they don't really show up any more. To make the stitch pattern most perfect, you can simply use the tip of one of your needles to tug on those stitches until they're visible again. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  9. Looking to make these for my 3 year old son, but not sure if I should do the child small or medium (he's a big boy). Any estimate on the palm width for these two sizes?

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    1. I would probably do the child's small. That should be about 6.8 inches around. You could also cast on enough for the medium, but follow the length directions for the small instead. :)

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  10. I am a beginner in knitting & this is the first time i have taken mittens to knit. can you please explain me in detail about this "Set-up Gusset Row 6: using color A, k1, m1r, slip marker, knit across remainder of stitches in row, place marker, m1l". In this i am confused on which needle i have to "make 1 left".

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    1. Hi there!

      Your m1l will be the very last stitch of your row, so it should occur at the end of needle 3. Let me know if this doesn't clear it up for you, or if you have any more questions! I'm always happy to help. :)

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    2. Thank you so much for helping me the mittens came perfect after that. I knit them for my daughter & she is so happy that she decided to wear them whole day.

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    3. Yay! I'm so glad to hear it. Nothing better than a happy child! :)

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  11. Hi there:
    Thanks for the great pattern. I've knitted one so far and it turned out well. Would you happen to have a pattern for a matching hat? I'd love to make a set. I'm not a very skilled knitter so I need to follow a pattern. Thanks.

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    1. Hi there!

      I'm glad to hear you're enjoying the pattern! And I don't have a hat pattern to match, but I can certainly help you with one in the comments here. What size are you looking to make?

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    2. I would like to make a matching pattern hat in child medium.

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    3. Great! Give me a day or two and I'll post something back. :)

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    4. Hi again! I'm posting the pattern below. You'll notice that I've only given a child small and child large size - that's because hat sizing isn't as finicky as mitten sizing. If you'd like some help choosing a size, let me know!

      Minky Hat

      Sizes: Toddler (Child Small; Child Large/Adult Small; Adult Large)

      Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #1946 Silver Grey - one skein (color A), #810 Teal - one skein (color B for the toddler sized mittens)
      Needles: One 16” circular needle in size US 6, one 16” circular needle in size US 7, and one set of dpns in size US 7
      
      Notions: Tapestry needle

      Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

      Using your size US 6 circular needle and your color A yarn, cast on 88 (96; 104; 112) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then knit the following ribbing row:

      Ribbing Row: using color A, * k1, p1; rep from *

      Knit this ribbing row until piece measures roughly 1.5” (1.5”; 2”; 2”). Transfer work to your size US 7 circular needle. Then, we’ll knit one transition row, like so:

      Transition Row 1: using color A, knit

      And once that’s done, we’ll move to our main pattern, as follows:

      Rows 1 & 2: using color B, * k1, slip 1 wyib *

      Row 3: using color A, knit

      Rows 4 & 5: using color B, * slip 1 wyib, k1 *

      Row 6: using color A, knit

      Knit rows 1 – 6 until hat measures roughly 4.5” (5”; 6”; 7”) and you’ve just finished row 3 or row 6 of the pattern. Clip your color B yarn tail, since you’re done with it. Then work the decrease, as follows. Remember to switch to your dpns once you’re getting ready to drop below 80 stitches.

      Decrease Row 1: * k6, k2tog * (77 stitches (84 stitches; 91 stitches; 98 stitches))

      Decrease Row 2: knit

      Decrease Row 3: * k5, k2tog * (66 stitches (72 stitches; 78 stitches; 84 stitches))

      Decrease Row 4: knit

      Decrease Row 5: * k4, k2tog * (55 stitches (60 stitches; 65 stitches; 70 stitches))

      Decrease Row 6: knit

      Decrease Row 7: * k3, k2tog * (44 stitches (48 stitches; 52 stitches; 56 stitches))

      Decrease Row 8: knit

      Decrease Row 9: * k2, k2tog * (33 stitches (36 stitches; 39 stitches; 42 stitches))

      Decrease Row 10: knit

      Decrease Row 11: * k1, k2tog * (22 stitches (24 stitches; 26 stitches; 28 stitches))

      Decrease Row 12: * k2tog * (11 stitches (12 stitches; 13 stitches; 14 stitches))

      Clip yarn tail, thread through remaining stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot; tuck in ends.

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    5. Thank you so much for doing this! I cant wait to try it! I will let you know how it turns out when I am done (it might be a while, I'm not the fastest knitter :) )

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    6. No worries, I'm not timing you! :) And let me know if you have any questions!!!

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  12. Love this pattern , I think I've lost it because I can't fathom the abbreviation wyib - sorry

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    1. Glad you like it! And it just means with yarn in back - I'll clarify above. And please, let me know if you have any other questions!!! :)

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  13. Could you tell me if you're using worsted weight or dk yarn or fingering. We don't need the kind of yarn. We need the weight. Thanks

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    1. Hi there! All of my posts are tagged with the weight, right below the pictures but above the comments. Also, I always give the gauge given on the package or make a note if the yarn doesn't live up to the specifications - that information should also help! :) (oh and in this particular case it's worsted)

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  14. I just happened across this pattern while surfing on AllFreeKnitting.com, and I love it! I love slip stitch patterns because they are so easy and look so complicated when they're finished. I can't wait to make these for my grand-nephews for Christmas. Mittens are so quick and useful. Does anyone that has made them have suggestions for color combinations?

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    1. Glad to hear you like the pattern! I love slip stitch stuff too! :) Anyway, I thought I'd point you in the direction of the Ravelry projects page if you're looking for inspiration: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/minky-mittens/people

      I've seen tons of beautiful stuff!!! :)

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  15. I wanted to thank you for the mitten and hat patterns. I've made both in pretty girlie colors but the slipped stitch part of both projects seem a bit tight. This is my first color work project so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Normally my gauge is on the loose side. Help!

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    1. Hi Kathy!

      Long story short, slipped stitch patterns always end up a bit on the tighter side, and the biggest thing you can do to help that is leave your yarn loose behind your slipped stitches - I usually recommend leaving it as loose as you possibly can, looser than you even think might be right, because I've personally never been able to make it SOOO loose that it becomes a problem, although I'm sure there's someone out there who can. :) It's definitely just one of those techniques that requires practice!!!

      Hope that helps! And let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  16. Hi Nina!

    Yes, this would make a great scarf! And I would definitely recommend a faux i-cord edging for a slip stitch pattern like this one - you'll be able to hide your weirdness beautifully, and you won't even see your color changes. The only issue with this pattern is that you will have to work with 2 balls of your color B yarn, since you’ll begin with color B on the right side on row 1, end with it at the end of the wrong side after row 2, and then pick up with it at the end of the right side after row 3 (am I making any sense here? You’ll quickly see why you need two balls if I’m not). However, even though you’re using two balls and have more rows between the color changes, the faux i-cord edging will allow you to carry your yarn rather than tucking in ends – just make sure you wrap your color A and color B every time you change colors and you should be good to go!

    So, here's what I would do (and of course you can change your edging if you'd prefer). Oh, and remember that you’ll want to keep your slipped stitches loose behind the main pattern, but that you can tug them tighter for the 3 slipped stitches at either edge.

    Using color A, cast on (whatever even number you'd like) stitches, and then work the edging as follows:

    Edging Row 1 (right side): slip 3 stitches with yarn in back (sl 3 wyib), purl until you have 3 stitches left in row, end sl 3 wyib

    Edging Row 2: p3, knit until you have 3 stitches left in row, end p3

    Knit edging rows 1 & 2 twice, and then knit edging row 1 one more time. Next, purl one row across (this will be a wrong side row, in place of edging row 2). Then we'll begin our main pattern, as follows:

    Row 1 (right side): using color B, sl 3 wyib, k1; then, * k1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left in row; end k1, sl 3 wyib

    Row 2: using color B, p3, k1; then, * sl 1 stitch with yarn in front (sl 1 wyif), p1; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left in row; end k1, p3

    Row 3: using color A, sl3 wyib, knit until you have 3 stitches left in row, end sl3 wyib

    Row 4: using color B, p3, k1; then, * p1, sl 1 stitch with yarn in front (sl 1 wyif); rep from * until you have 4 stitches left in row; end k1, p3

    Row 5: using color B, sl 3 wyib, k1; then, * sl 1 wyib, k1; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left in row; end k1, sl 3 wyib

    Row 6: using color A, purl

    Knit rows 1 – 6 until scarf reaches desired length and you’ve just finished row 6 of the pattern. Then, work edging as follows:

    Edging Row 1 (right side): sl 3 wyib, purl until you have 3 stitches left in row, end sl 3 wyib

    Edging Row 2: p3, knit until you have 3 stitches left in row, end p3

    Knit edging rows 1 & 2 twice, and bind off loosely in pattern!

    Anyway, hope this works for you, and let me know if you have any questions. My baby woke up halfway through typing this, so, while I believe it to be accurate, the child-in-my-lap issue complicates things. :)

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  17. Hi Nina!

    Yes, using circular needles and sliding is a choice; the only issue you face then is with the faux i-cord border. If you slide instead of using 2 balls of color B, you won't always be able to slip the edge stitches on one side of the fabric or the other - you'll have to alternate between slipping them on the right side and the wrong side. Also, your yarn won't always be in the proper position to snug the edging in, which won't be a huge issue, but may make things slightly less tidy. If this sounds more convenient to you, let me know and I'll revise the pattern. :)

    Oh, and looking into this question for you I realize that I made one error in the pattern above - Row 6 should read "using color A, p3, k1, purl until you have 4 stitches left in row, k1, p3" in order to maintain the one row of seed stitch that separates the i-cord edging from the main pattern (which is necessary for more stitch-slipping/edging reasons, as well). Anyway, let me know what you think! :)

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  18. I knit one of theses mittens and in the end it turned out to be to small for my little one. So, I started a new pair in the next size up, but this time I knit 2 at a time! It worked out really well for me since I tend to get one done and never finish the other. I started on the hat you posted above, but it has taken me so long that now winter is over and my little will probably outgrow it by next winter :(

    But, it all looks beautiful!

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    1. Ah, that's totally my problem! I either don't finish or don't make the season!!! Such is life. :) Anyway, glad to hear it all looks good, at the very least!!!

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  19. I was knitting right along and loving this pattern and then things went wonky setting up my gusset. I am not sure where I went wrong. In gusset row 3 I m1r placed a marker and knit all the way around. Gusset Row 4 & 5 went fine. Gusset row 6 I k1 m1r Knit across to my last stitch placed a marker and m1l. That all seemed to make sense but in

    Gusset row 1 "knit until first marker" is that only 2 stitches?and then 1 knit at the end? Gusset row 2 again is only knitting one at the beginning?
    Gusset row 3 is making one at beginnng and one just after the marker? With jus a stitch to the end??

    Not sure if this makes any sense, unusually confused ��

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  20. Brain Burp over! I ripped it all out and started over, and this time it is as clear as can be. You can disregard the previous rambling :-)

    Thanks for the great pattern.

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    1. Ha! No worries; I started reading your first comment and then skipped right here. Glad you sorted everything out! :)

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  21. I love this mitten pattern! It's so easy, yet looks so complicated. One question tho: when you're finishing the two color pattern, just before you clip the tail of your color B yarn, when you say, "...and you've just finished row 1 or row 4 of the pattern.", shouldn't it say row 2 or row 5? Otherwise color B is a different size. Next I'm going to try the matching hat! Thanks for sharing!!

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    1. Yes, you're totally right! Even funnier - I've seen many finished pairs of these mittens and I'm not sure anyone else has noticed! Anyway, I'll fix it. Glad you like it! :)

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  22. Hi Gretchen
    Just have to say a huge thank you for all your fabulous patterns. As well as being hugely creative, I suspect you are one of the most generous designers out there. It really is appreciated.

    Michelle UK

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    1. Hi Michelle!

      Thanks for your kind words. :) It's certainly my goal to be accessible and helpful with my patterns, so I'm glad it's appreciated!

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  23. Hi Gretchen. Love this pattern. I was wondering if on set-up gusset row 3 if there should be a M1L at the end or if it does not need one because of the pattern? Thanks so much. Sherri

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    1. Hi Sherri!

      Glad you like the pattern. :) And the reason I don't have a m1l there is because it's hard to put two together (and you already have that m1r at the beginning of the round). So it is intentional. :)

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  24. Hi Gretchen! I have a couple questions, first, is the slip one done Knut or Purl Wise? Second, I’m not quite sure what to do after rows 1-6 after the ribbing. What does once, once, twice, twice, twice mean? Thanks for your time. I’ve never made mittens with more than one color as I’m not very experienced with knitting! Denise

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    1. Hi Denise!

      In general (and definitely on my site), stitches are slipped purlwise unless otherwise stated, since slipping them knitwise twists them. Also, the once twice etc business is just giving instructions for the different sizes; directions for the size you're making will always come in the same place, as listed in the sizes above.

      And let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  25. Ahhh, thanks so much! I get it now!

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  26. I think I am addicted to your pattern. They are so much fun to make...and you seem so helpful. Thanks for sharing. My only problem is the jogless seam...When I look up the side of my mitten...they seem a little off kilter. Not too noticeable...but you know how we knitters are...we can see every mistake. Thanks for sharing your beautiful pattern.

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    1. Hi there!

      First off, sorry for my delayed response - my messaging system hasn't been sending me emails about comments and I've been so busy that I forgot to check! Apologies. Anyway, yes, this pattern is a bit difficult to get exact on the seam you're only knitting one row at a time in each color. You might be able to slip the first stitch of your color A row if you have a color A stitch below it too (if that makes any sense) or just try to re-tension the stitches by hand at the end! :)

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  27. I desperately need help with the gussets. I'm on my fourth try and its just not working. I love the pattern and don't want to frog my 1/4 finished mittens. Thanks.
    sue

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    1. Hi Sue!

      First, I apologize for my delayed response - I'm having trouble with my commenting system! However, I really am happy to help - what seems to be the problem with the gusset? Or rather, how exactly is it going wrong? Let me know and I'll see if I can figure out the trouble. :)

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  28. just found this pattern I am going to try it I am knitting some kids mittens for charity thanks for the pattern

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    1. Wonderful, let me know if you have any questions! :)

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  29. Is the marker replacement row knit in color B ? Gorgeous pattern. Thank you.

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    1. Hi! Glad you like it! :) And no, you're done with color B now - the decrease is all worked in color A.

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  30. Awesome mittens. Will try this pattern for fingerless gloves.

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  31. Where it says knit rows 1-6 once, and then we’ll set up our gusseting rows as follows, am I suppose to knit rows 1-6 again? Or do I go right to the set up gusset rows?

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    1. Hi there! If you're making one of the smallest three sizes, then yes, just once, no repeats. :)

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  32. Hello,
    I'm making the adult large and if I'm understanding the pattern correctly I should have 20 gusset stitches held on a scrap of yarn for the thumb. It seems big so I wanted to confirm. Thanks for the pattern!

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    Replies
    1. Yes, you're correct on the stitch count. If it seems bigger than you'd like, however, just stop a few rows beforehand. :)

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    2. How many stitches on the scrap of yarn for Adult Medium? 18?

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  33. Hello, I have fallen in love with your mitten pattern. I am going to purchase the yarn next week to make it. Lucky for me in these strange times I have a dealer ;) I was hoping you had a hat pattern to accompany the mittens. I looked everywhere on ravelry and cannot find anything. Thank you in advance!

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    Replies
    1. Hi there! I've never written up a hat pattern for this stitch but it wouldn't be much work... Give me a day or two and I'll comment one back. :)

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    2. After I did this I realized I posted child sizes above in the comments as well... oops! Oh well. Here you go, let me know if you have any more questions. :)

      Sizes: Toddler (Child; Small Adult; Large Adult)

      Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #1946 Silver Grey - one skein (color A), #810 Teal - one skein (color B)

      Needles: One 16” circular needle in size US 5, one 16” circular needle in size US 7, and set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 7

      Notions: Tapestry needle

      Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

      So let's make a hat! Using your size 5 circular needle and your color A yarn, cast on 80 (96; 102; 108) stitches and join in round. Then knit the following ribbing row:

      Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

      Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1.5" (1.5"; 2"; 2"). Then switch to your size 7 needles and knit one row around, still in your color A yarn. And once that's done, we'll continue as follows:

      Rows 1 & 2: using color B, * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib) *

      Row 3: using color A, knit

      Rows 4 & 5: using color B, * slip 1 wyib, k1 *

      Row 6: using color A, knit

      Knit rows 1 – 6 until hat measures roughly 5.5” (6"; 7.5"; 8.5") in length, and you've just completed row 3 or row 6 of your pattern. Clip the tail for your color B yarn, since you’re done with it. And now, if you're knitting the toddler or the small adult size, you'll need a transition row, which you'll find below. If you're knitting one of the other sizes, skip to the next instruction.

      Toddler Transition Row: (k11, k2tog) 6 times, knit until end of row (84 stitches)

      Small Adult Transition Row: (k11, k2tog) 3 times, k12, (k11, k2tog) 3 times, knit until end of round (96 stitches)

      Once your transition row is done (if you needed one), we'll move on to the main decreases, which you'll find below. Notice that the final row is different for each size. Also, remember to switch to your dpns once you drop to about 80 stitches.

      Decrease Row 1: * k10, k2tog * (77 stitches (88 stitches; 88 stitches; 99 stitches))

      Decrease Row 2: * k9, k2tog * (70 stitches (80 stitches; 80 stitches; 90 stitches))

      Decrease Row 3: * k8, k2tog * (63 stitches (72 stitches; 72 stitches; 81 stitches))

      Decrease Row 4: * k7, k2tog * (56 stitches (64 stitches; 64 stitches; 72 stitches))

      Decrease Row 5: * k6, k2tog * (49 stitches (56 stitches; 56 stitches; 63 stitches))

      Decrease Row 6: * k5, k2tog * (42 stitches (48 stitches; 48 stitches; 54 stitches))

      Decrease Row 7: * k4, k2tog * (35 stitches (40 stitches; 40 stitches; 45 stitches))

      Decrease Row 8: * k3, k2tog * (28 stitches (32 stitches; 32 stitches; 36 stitches))

      Decrease Row 9: * k2, k2tog * (21 stitches (24 stitches; 24 stitches; 27 stitches))

      Decrease Row 10: * k1, k2tog * (14 stitches (16 stitches; 16 stitches; 18 stitches))

      Decrease Row 11: * k2tog * (7 stitches (8 stitches; 8 stitches; 9 stitches))

      Complete these decrease rows. Clip yarn tail, leaving roughly 18”, and thread through final 7 (8; 8; 9) stitches. Pull tight and knot. Tuck in ends.

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  34. There's more
    ●row 6 k1, m1r Sam
    This is the 1st 2 sts of row 6
    Right?
    ●knit row place stm
    ☆▪︎now have 3 stm? Right
    ●after place atm as states m1r
    ☆☆☆ m1r would be done in round 7
    Right????

    This makes as have done stm beginning & end if 30 beginning co sts. Yes?
    ● 1st stm, then 2 sts end 30 atm
    Please tell me correct. Making thumb. I have stopped until hear from u? Thank you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi again,

      Yes, the k1, m1r are the first two stitches in round 6, and you also place a second marker (or third, if you're using a round marker) in round 6, to keep track of the other side of your gusset. The m1l at the end of round 6 is still in round 6, however - that's the other side of the gusset. There is no round 7, as you're moving on to the gusset rows at that point. You will be adding two more stitches on Gusset Row 3 however. And yes, you will always have your same number of cast on stitches between your two added markers - like you said, 30 for the small. After Set-Up Row 6 you should have two stitches before the marker, then thirty stitches, then your final m1l.

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  35. Hi Gretchen, I bought the yarn yesterday and started right in on a mitten - such a cute pattern, thank you!
    Question - when the pattern says 'clip both yarn tails', does that mean to actually CUT the yarn when the thumb gusset is done, and then start back on the mitten body with new ends for both yarn A & B?
    I'm not going to cut that yarn unless you say so!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, that's exactly what I mean! :) Let me know if you have any other questions.

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  36. Thank you so much Gretchen. The mittens are so awesome looking.
    I did a folded cuff, doing 2 mittens at a time. I read through the whole pattern and all the comments and your responses. I'm excited about the hat pattern also. From what I could tell there is no right or left mitten. Am I right about that? Thanks for all you do. Kitty

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Kitty!

      Yes, you're right, that's how I typically make mittens because I'm very lazy (also you only need a left and a right when they have patterns that run specifically across the backs; here the pattern is all over). Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  37. Hi,
    Your pattern is great but I am struggling on the marker placement. I did the gusset set up and have found the end of the round marker the second marker are in the same place. I am making adult medium and have completed gusset row 6. Are you able to help? I am very new to colorwork...
    The pattern is great, any help would be much appreciated!
    Thanks,
    K

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! Do you mean set-up gusset row 6? In that case, there will be one stitch between the marker and the end of the round - that m1l at the end. There will be more stitches as you continue to work. I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  38. That is perfect. Thank you so much for your help. This is a great pattern! :)

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    Replies
    1. Wonderful, let me know if you have any other questions!!!

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  39. Hi! Great pattern so far!. I am working with a magic loop and am wondering where to start after finishing the gusset and putting the extra stitches aside. The pattern says "beginning with the stitches you have remaining on your first dpn, and joining the mitt back in the round at the thumb break.", When working in the magic loop, I'm not sure where to start knitting again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! If you've already put your stitches aside then you just start knitting at the next stitch, the first in the round. I'm not sure I've understood your question properly though - just let me know if you still have questions! :)

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    2. Thanks! Yeah, I think you understood. I just wasn't sure if I was supposed to start before the thumb or just the first stitch after.

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    3. Great, let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  40. I love this pattern. I knit about 50 Pairs of mittens every year, and knit or crochet hats as well as baby blankets. I was going to figure out a hat pattern to match, but I found one in your comments. Please consider posting this as a separate pattern for those of us who don’t read all of the comments. Thanks for this. I continue to come back to this pattern, but I just found the hat today.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! Glad you like the pattern! :) And I wish I could post the hat, I'm just not able to knit anymore and I've never made one so I wouldn't have anything to photograph! Sorry the the inconvenience.

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