Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Coin & Medallion Hat

Coin & Medallion Hat

Everything about this hat was inspired by the yarn, since the color strikes me as a perfect match for the coin and medallion cables. And not only is this stuff a gorgeous shade, it also has a lovely feel, as buttery as the hue. I will note, however, that if you're making this hat for a larger-headed person, you will probably want to use a slightly heavier weight worsted, or even a light chunky (think more like 16 stitches per four inches). You can size your needles up as needed.

Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted (100% Merino Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #022 Sauterne – one skein

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 9, one 16" circular needle in size US 6, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size 9, and one cable needle (cn)

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Edit as of 3/07/15: Raveler sandeleh has very kindly created charts for this hat, which you can find as images at the bottom of this post. The only note is that the cables in the chart do not contain twisted stitches, while as in the written pattern, they do. You can twist or not twist at your leisure. Also, row 1 of the chart is the ribbing row - you will, naturally, want to repeat it more than once, as directed. And please just email if you want a bigger version of the charts (ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com). Thanks again sandeleh!!! :)

So let's get started! Using your size 6 needle, cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work on the ribbing row, as follows:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1 * 

Knit this ribbing row until piece measures about 1 1/4", and then switch to your size 9 needle. Now, it's time to begin our main pattern, which is a combination of Coin Cable and a modified version of Tyrolean Medallion, from Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns (on pages 261 and 247, respectively). To do these, let's first define some terms.

coin cable (cc): slip next 4 stitches to cn and hold in back; k1, the slip the last 3 stitches from cn back to left-hand needle and bring final stitch from cn to the front of the work, k3 from left-hand needle, and finally knit stitch from cn

twisted back cable (tbc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3 stitches through their back loops (k3-tbl), then k3-tbl from cn

twisted front cable (tfc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3 stitches through their back loops (k3-tbl), then k3-tbl from cn

And now that we've got that covered, let's move on to the pattern.

Row 1: * k8-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k7-tbl *

Row 2: * k2-tbl, tfc, p2, cc, p2, tbc, k1-tbl *

Rows 3 - 7: * k8-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k7-tbl *

Row 8: * k8-tbl, p2, cc, p2, k7-tbl *

Rows 9 - 13: * k8-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k7-tbl *

Row 14: * k2-tbl, tbc, p2, cc, p2, tfc, k1-tbl * 

Rows 15 - 18: * k8-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k7-tbl *

Knit rows 1 - 18 and then knit rows 1 - 13 again. Now, it's time to begin the decreases, which will go as follows:

Decrease Row 1: * k6-tbl, k2tog, p2, cc, p2, ssk, k5-tbl *

Decrease Row 2: * k7-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k6-tbl *


Decrease Row 3: * k5-tbl, k2tog, p2, k5, p2, ssk, k4-tbl *

Decrease Row 4: * k6-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k5-tbl *

You may want to switch to your dpns about now...

Decrease Row 5: * k2-tbl, k2tog, k2tog, p2, k5, p2, ssk, ssk, k1-tbl *

Decrease Row 6: * k4-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k3-tbl *

Decrease Row 7: * k2-tbl, k2tog, p2tog, cc, p2tog, ssk, k1-tbl *

Decrease Row 8: * k3-tbl, p1, k5, p1, k2-tbl *

Decrease Row 9: * k1-tbl, k2tog, p1, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1, ssk *

Decrease Row 10: * k2-tbl, p1, k3tog, p1, k1-tbl *

Decrease Row 11: * k2-tbl, p3tog, k1-tbl *

Decrease Row 12: * k2tog *

Clip yarn, thread through your final 8 stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.

 





29 comments:

  1. That is a totally awesome pattern and the colour!!!! wow!!
    Thanks for sharing the patterns, we love it out here in blogland.
    Happy New Year to you and yours.
    Cheers, Anita.

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    1. Thanks Anita! This color is definitely one of my favorites :) And Happy New Year to you as well!!!

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  2. Aannnnnd you've done it again, Gretchen ... another beautiful hat! I love the colour but can't wear it as it makes me look anemic. lol. Thank you soooo much and Happy, Happy New Year, Gretchen! xo

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    1. Yeah, it's definitely a tough color to pull off (although it's gorgeous, at least in my opinion). I'm glad you like the pattern, though :) And Happy New Year to you as well!

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  3. This is a really stunning pattern. One of your best! I like the colour too, but it would not be good on me.

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    1. Thank you! And perhaps you could do this color in mittens! Definitely socks...

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  4. I'm a beginner and I didn't understand what or how to do the tbl

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    1. Hi Linda!

      Knitting stitches through their back loops twists them, which gives them that slightly different look. Here's a video, with instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjZl_aIMNmQ

      Please let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  5. Very pretty hat. Would it work for a chemo hat? I would need to use a soft yarn such as Caron Simply Soft so it wouldn't irritate the recipients head.

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    1. Hello there!

      Yes, I think that yarn would be an excellent substitution. :) Please let me know if you have any more questions.

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  6. Boy, did I hit the jackpot finding your blog! I was in a hat making mood & stumbled upon this beauty. I'm going to put this one on my needles after this comment! I checked out your gallery too & was amazed to find so many beautiful patterns. That's very cool of you to make so many free patterns (although I do respect those who sell their lovely creations; I just don't always have the money to support them). Thank you for the inspiration! :)

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    1. Glad you're inspired - that's what I aim for! :) And please, let me know if you ever have any questions - I'm always happy to help!!!

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  7. Hi Gretchen. I live your site and this is a really great pattern. I just have a question. When I look at the pictures there are 6 medallions and then it seems the decrease starts. But the pattern calls for rows 1-13 to be repeated which includes another two rows of twists. Should I start the decrease after the second repeat? Many thanks. Steve

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    1. Hi Steve! I think what you're calling the medallions I'm calling the coins. :) And you're right that there are six in total, but the final one is done during the decrease. So you'll make your first one between rows 2 & 8, your second between rows 8 & 14, your third between rows 14 & 2 (when you begin knitting rows 1 - 13 again), your fourth again between rows 2 & 8, your fifth between rows 8 & the first of the decrease, and the sixth in the course of the decrease. So you're going to want to knit rows 1 - 18, then rows 1 - 13, then begin the decrease, as stated. :)

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    2. Hi Gretchen , thank you for your rapid response. Sorry for being a thick, or maybe , I have done something wrong but I already seem to have six coins (or five and nearly a competed coin) after knitting rows 1-18 twice. I think that if I repeat rows 1-13 for a last time and then decrease the hat will be quite long? I do love this pattern and don't want to get it wrong, as I would like to do more for friends. Maybe I should just have faith in your instructions and stop whining. Ha ha.

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    3. Hi! Okay, now I see your problem! :) You don't knit rows 1 - 18 twice, just once, and then 1 - 13 again (so you have 5 extra rows at this point). Hope that helps!!! :)

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    4. Yes I was a dumbkopf, but it still work out brilliantly. I understood the instructions wrong, but even after continuing after a row 17 it still worked out fine. Thank you for your help. I'm off to do another.

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    5. Wonderful! :) Glad everything turned out well either way!!!

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  8. How many stitch repeat does the ribbing and the main pattern for this hat has before repeating? example 17,18 or 19 thanks

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    1. Hi there! The main pattern repeat is 24 stitches. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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    2. Thanks..what about the ribbing? Is it also 24?

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    3. Thanks can I use the size 9 needle for the cast on and the ribbing? I can't change the needle once I start the main pattern. Any suggestions thanks

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    4. Hi! Of course you *can* use the same needle for the whole pattern, but your ribbing will likely end up a bit baggy in that event. If I had designed this pattern to add stitches after the ribbing that would be less pronounced, but since I mostly relied on gauge it will probably be a problem. If you can't switch needle sizes, though, perhaps you could cast on fewer stitches for the ribbing, then do a more simple one (a k1, p1 or k2, p2) and then add stitches before you begin your main pattern. For instance, cast on 90 stitches, work a *k1, p1* ribbing, and then add 6 stitches on your last ribbing row before beginning the pattern.

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    5. Thank u..1 more question.. how do I add 6 stitches on my last ribbing row before the pattern. I want to start. Thanks

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    6. Hi again! I would just work in your ribbing pattern and then do an increase (maybe a kfb - a knit front & back) on every 15th stitch. :)

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  9. Thank u for your help. I will give it a go xxx

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  10. Please can I have this on straight needles. Rachna

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    1. Here it is!

      Using your size 6 needle, cast on 98 stitches. Then we'll work on the ribbing row, as follows:

      Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * k1, p2, (k2, p2) twice, k1, p2, (k2, p2) twice, k1, p1; rep from *, end p1

      Ribbing Row 2: k1, * k1, p1, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1 *, end k1

      Knit this ribbing row until piece measures about 1 1/4" and you’ve just finished a right side row and then switch to your size 9 needle. Now, it's time to begin our main pattern, which is a combination of Coin Cable and a modified version of Tyrolean Medallion. To do these, let's first define some terms.

      coin cable (cc): slip next 4 stitches to cn and hold in back; k1, the slip the last 3 stitches from cn back to left-hand needle and bring final stitch from cn to the front of the work, k3 from left-hand needle, and finally knit stitch from cn

      twisted back cable (tbc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3 stitches through their back loops (k3-tbl), then k3-tbl from cn

      twisted front cable (tfc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3 stitches through their back loops (k3-tbl), then k3-tbl from cn

      And now that we've got that covered, let's move on to the pattern.

      Rows 1, 3, 5, & 7 (wrong side): p1, * p7-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p8-tbl *, end p1

      Row 2: k1, * k2-tbl, tfc, p2, cc, p2, tbc, k1-tbl *, end k1

      Rows 4 & 6: k1, * k8-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k7-tbl *, end k1

      Row 8: k1, * k8-tbl, p2, cc, p2, k7-tbl *, end k1

      Rows 9, 11, & 13: p1, * p7-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p8-tbl *, end p1

      Rows 10 & 12: k1, * k8-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k7-tbl *, end k1

      Row 14: k1, * k2-tbl, tbc, p2, cc, p2, tfc, k1-tbl * , end k1

      Rows 15 & 17: p1, * p7-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p8-tbl *, end p1

      Rows 16 & 18: k1, * k8-tbl, p2, k5, p2, k7-tbl *, end k1

      Knit rows 1 - 18 and then knit rows 1 - 13 again. Now, it's time to begin the decreases, which will go as follows:

      Decrease Row 1 (right side): k1, * k6-tbl, k2tog, p2, cc, p2, ssk, k5-tbl *, end k1

      Decrease Row 2: p1, * p6-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p7-tbl *, end p1

      Decrease Row 3: k1, * k5-tbl, k2tog, p2, k5, p2, ssk, k4-tbl *, end k1

      Decrease Row 4: p1, * p5-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p6-tbl *, end p1

      Decrease Row 5: k1, * k2-tbl, k2tog, k2tog, p2, k5, p2, ssk, ssk, k1-tbl *, end k1

      Decrease Row 6: p1, * p3-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p4-tbl *, end p1

      Decrease Row 7: k1, * k2-tbl, k2tog, p2tog, cc, p2tog, ssk, k1-tbl *, end k1

      Decrease Row 8: p1, * p2-tbl, k1, p5, k1, p3-tbl *, end p1

      Decrease Row 9: k1, * k1-tbl, k2tog, p1, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1, ssk *, end k1

      Decrease Row 10: p1, * p1-tbl, k1, p3tog, k1, p2-tbl *, end p1

      Decrease Row 11: k1, * k2-tbl, p3tog, k1-tbl *, end k1

      Decrease Row 12: p1, * p2tog *, end p1

      Clip yarn, thread through your final 10 stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Seam from bottom and tuck in ends.

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