Thursday, January 19, 2017

Super Baby Beanie

Super Baby Beanie
Super Baby Beanie
Pictured in size Adult Large

Before we dive into the specifics of the pattern, let's get one thing straight: yes, this hat is practically the same color as the last one I posted, the Four Winds Hat. As you'll remember, though, that's the yarn I snatched away from my husband before he could get too attached to it, and subsequently, the yarn that made me feel very, very guilty for the snatching. Hence the Super Baby Beanie for the Super Baby himself (hmm, that doesn't sound quite as flattering as I imagined it did). Anyway, this hat is made with an extra bulky fiber and big ol' needles, which makes it a perfect quick knit that still has plenty of pizazz. And while my girl Hedwig here looks pretty freakin' nice with it on (yes, I spent time braiding her wig), I should mention that it looks ever cuter on my husband!

Sizes: Adult Small (Adult Large)

Yarn: Lana Grossa Alta Moda Super Baby (67% Wool, 30% Alpaca, 3% Polyamide; 65 yards [60 meters]/50 grams); #01 Oliv Meliert - 2 skeins

A closer look at the pattern
and the finish.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 11, one 16" circular needle in size US 15, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 15

Notions: Tapestry needle, 1 stitch marker

Gauge: 10 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's make a hat! Using your size 11 needle, then, cast on 52 (56) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then, we'll work the ribbing as follows:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

Work this ribbing row until hat measures just over 2". Transfer work to your size US 15 circular needle, and then we'll begin the main pattern, which is Ringlet Stitch from page 136 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. To do it, you'll need the following notation:

make ringlet (mr): purl 2 stitches, then keeping the yarn in front slip these 2 stitches back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the 2 stitches back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the 2 purled stitches

And once you've gotten that down, continue as follows:

Row 1: knit

Row 2: * mr *

Knit these two rows until piece measures roughly 7" (8") in length and you've just finished row 1 of the pattern. Then we'll work the decrease, as you'll find below. For the decrease, you'll need some more notation, which is basically just a few variations of the ringlet, that go as follows:

make ringlet with purl 2 together (mr w/ p2tog): p2tog, then keeping the yarn in front slip this stitch back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the stitch back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the p2tog 

make ringlet with 1 stitch (mr w/ p1): p1, then keeping the yarn in front slip this stitch back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the stitch back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the p1

And once you've got that covered, proceed as follows. Notice that the final decrease row is different for each size.

Decrease Row 1: * mr, mr w/ p2tog * (39 stitches (42 stitches))

You'll want to transfer your work to your dpns now... 

Decrease Row 2: knit

Decrease Row 3: * mr w/ p2tog, mr w/ p1 * (26 stitches (28 stitches))

Decrease Row 4: knit

Decrease Row 5: * mr w/ p2tog * (13 stitches (14 stitches))

Decrease Row 6 (size adult small): mr w/ p1, * mr w/ p2tog; rep from * until end of round (7 stitches)

Decrease Row 6 (size adult large): * mr w/ p2tog * (7 stitches)

Clip yarn tail, thread through final 7 stitches and to inside of hat, pull tight and knot. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. 

9 comments:

  1. I measured my nephew's head at 23 inches around. (I looped the tape around where the bottom of a hat would go, pretty much.) Would that be a small or a large?

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    Replies
    1. Oooh, that's probably right in the middle! Make a small if you want it tighter-fitting; larger if he'd prefer something looser. :)

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  2. How can i do this on straight needles? (Newbie here!)

    Thanks in advance!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Okay, I've posted modified directions below. However, I highly recommend that you take the plunge and learn the basics to knitting in the round... it has many advantages, including zero seaming for hats like this and no wrong side at all!!! :)

      Using your size 11 needle, then, cast on 54 (58) stitches loosely. Then, we'll work the ribbing as follows:

      Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * k1, p1; rep from * until you have one stitch left, end p1

      Ribbing Row 2: k1, * k1, p1; rep from * until you have one stitch left, end k1

      Work these ribbing rows until hat measures just over 2" and you’ve just finished a right side row. Transfer work to your size US 15 needle, and then we'll begin the main pattern. To do it, you'll need the following notation:

      make ringlet (mr): purl 2 stitches, then keeping the yarn in front slip these 2 stitches back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the 2 stitches back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the 2 purled stitches

      And once you've gotten that down, continue as follows:

      Row 1 (wrong side): purl

      Row 2: k1, * mr; rep from * until you have one stitch left, end k1

      Knit these two rows until piece measures roughly 7" (8") in length and you've just finished row 1 of the pattern. Then we'll work the decrease, as you'll find below. For the decrease, you'll need some more notation, which is basically just a few variations of the ringlet, that go as follows:

      make ringlet with purl 2 together (mr w/ p2tog): p2tog, then keeping the yarn in front slip this stitch back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the stitch back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the p2tog

      make ringlet with 1 stitch (mr w/ p1): p1, then keeping the yarn in front slip this stitch back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the stitch back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the p1

      And once you've got that covered, proceed as follows. Notice that the final decrease row is different for each size.

      Decrease Row 1 (right side): k1, * mr, mr w/ p2tog; rep from * until you have one stitch left, k1 (41 stitches (44 stitches))

      Decrease Row 2: purl

      Decrease Row 3: k1, * mr w/ p2tog, mr w/ p1; rep from * until you have 1 stitch left, k1 (28 stitches (30 stitches))

      Decrease Row 4: purl

      Decrease Row 5: k1, * mr w/ p2tog; rep from * until you have 1 stitch left, k1 (15 stitches (16 stitches))

      Decrease Row 6: purl

      Decrease Row 7 (size adult small): k1, mr w/ p1, * mr w/ p2tog; rep from * until you have one stitch left, k1 (9 stitches)

      Decrease Row 7 (size adult large): k1, * mr w/ p2tog; rep from * until you have 1 stitch left, k1 (9 stitches)

      Thread remaining 9 stitches onto a piece of scrap yarn to work later. Beginning at brim of hat, seam. When you reach final 9 stitches, thread seaming yarn through them and pull tight. Thread seaming yarn to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends and block, if desired.

      Delete
  3. Is it okay to continue pattern in the round instead of switching to dpns?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If you're using the Magic Loop then you don't need to make the transfer - otherwise, unfortunately, as you reduce stitches and your hat gets smaller you won't be able to hold the stitches on a needle as long as your 16" circular without pulling apart the top of the hat.

      Let me know if you have any other question! :)

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  4. Hi Gretchen, I love the pattern but want to knit it in worsted weight. If I modify the pattern would this weight work?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, totally! I suggest knitting the body of the hat with whichever needles gives you 18 stitches = 4 inches. First, though, cast on 92, 96, or 100 stitches with a needle that's one size smaller (just depending on kind of a small/medium/large thing - you could even go to 104 if you wanted quite large), work the ribbing, switch to your gauge needles and continue from there! :)

      Delete
    2. Cool, I will try this, thank you!

      Delete