Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Twilight Rose Beanie

Twilight Rose Beanie
Twilight Rose Beanie

I have developed a weird fetish for the game of yarn chicken, and found the completion of this hat very exciting for exactly that reason; for a good hour or two, I was convinced I would have to run to the store for another skein of my fiber, and then for an hour or two after that I felt bold enough to continue without. At the end of the day, I finished this bad boy with about 2 yards of my first skein remaining, something I would brag about incessantly if anyone in my household actually cared (the boys are far more concerned about whether or not I'm going to feed them vegetables, and the husband makes an effort to nod politely, but I still know he doesn't know what I'm talking about, which ruins the fun). So what's my point? Oh yeah, this hat is lightweight, pretty, and a reasonably easy knit considering the look of the finished result, whether you require one skein or two.

Yarn: Lang Fantomas Superwash (75% Virgin Wool, 25% Polyamide; 153 yards [140 meters]/50 grams); #0209 Rosa Dunkel - 1-2 skeins

Twilight Rose Beanie
A better view of the finish.
I'm pleased with how it turned out.
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 3; one 16" circular needle in size US 4; one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 4, cable needle (cn) or dpn for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 25 stitches = 4 inches on size US 4 needles 

So let's make a hat, shall we? Using your size US 3 needle, then, cast on 130 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. We'll need the following definitions to continue - and remember, you can always skip the cable needle if you're so inclined:

front cross (fc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front; k3, k3 from cn

back cross (bc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back; k3, k3 from cn

And with that defined, we'll continue as follows. If you're a chart person, you can find a chart of the entire hat below all of the written instructions; please note that I have included all rows in the chart, including the knit-only ones from the main pattern below the ribbing. Oh yeah, and if you're not a chart person we're working like so:

Ribbing Rows 1 - 2: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *

Ribbing Row 3: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, fc, k3 *

Ribbing Rows 4 - 6: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *

Ribbing Row 7: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k3, bc *

Ribbing Row 8: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *

Knit ribbing rows 1 - 8 and then knit rows 1 - 7 once more. Transfer work to your size US 4 circular needle. Then we'll begin the main pattern, which contains an adaptation of Pointed Chevron from page 276 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and a braided cable, as follows:

Row 1 and all odd rows: knit

Row 2: * yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1) twice, k1, ssk, yo, k9 *

Row 4: * yo, k2tog, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *

Row 6: * yo, k2tog, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, ssk, yo, k9 *

Row 8: * yo, k2tog, k5, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k3, bc *

Row 10: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *

Row 12: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *

Row 14: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *

Row 16: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3, bc * 

Knit rows 1 - 16 twice and then knit rows 1 - 9 once more. Then we'll begin our decrease, as follows:

Decrease Row 1: * yo, k2tog, ssk, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 * (130 stitches - no actual decrease in this one!)

Decrease Row 2: * k2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k11 * (120 stitches) 

Decrease Row 3: * yo, k2tog, (ssk) twice, (k1, yo) twice, k1, (k2tog) twice, ssk, yo, fc, k3 * (110 stitches)

Decrease Row 4: * k2, (ssk) twice, k1, (k2tog) twice, k11 * (90 stitches)

At this point you'll want to transfer your work to your dpns...

Decrease Row 5: * yo, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 * (80 stitches)

Decrease Row 6: * k2, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k11 * (70 stitches)

Decrease Row 7: * ssk, k1, k2tog, k3, bc * (60 stitches)

Decrease Row 8: * slip 1-k2tog-psso, k9 * (50 stitches)

Decrease Row 9: * k1, ssk, k5, k2tog * (40 stitches)

Decrease Row 10: * k1, ssk, k3, k2tog * (30 stitches)

Decrease Row 11: * k1, ssk, k1, k2tog * (20 stitches)

Decrease Row 12: * k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso * (10 stitches)

Knit decrease rows 1 - 12. Clip yarn tail, and, using tapestry needle, thread through remaining 10 stitches and pull tight. Tuck in ends. 
Twilight Rose Beanie
Twilight Rose Beanie
Twilight Rose Beanie
Twilight Rose Beanie
Twilight Rose Beanie
Twilight Rose Beanie

8 comments:

  1. Just finished this hat and, while the finished product was perfect in the cable section, the feathered SSK sections don't look quite the same as your photo. However, all-in-all an okay outcome. Thank you for sharing

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    Replies
    1. If your ssk's get a little funny you can always scootch the stitches a bit with the tip of your needle... anyway, glad you enjoyed the pattern! :)

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  2. Hi Gretchen, I love your hat patterns! I have a quick question about your yarn notations....when you mention two different yarns - Are these suggestions for yarn that will give us the proper gauge for the pattern?
    I want to make so many of your designs...

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    Replies
    1. Glad to hear you like my patterns! And I don't ever list yarn suggestions, just the one/ones I used. :) Is there a specific pattern that you have questions about?

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  3. Hi Gretchen, i like your hat patterns too! i walnt to ask you about the cast of stitches. So, 130 stitches isn't a lot for the hat? or than number of stitches give us an ordinary size?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there!

      The cast on number is really just dependent on the gauge of your yarn... so, since this yarn is small, giving you 25 stitches per four inches, 130 is perfectly appropriate! :)

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  4. First off, thank you for all of your free patterns! I just found your site and am working on your "Friend of the Forest Hood". I love complex patterns!

    Secondly, I don't really like hats that don't come down all the way over my ears(it looks like there's a bit of the manikin's ear that's not covered), is there any way to make the body of the hat longer?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there!

      Glad to hear you're finding patterns you like on my site. :) And yeah, with this hat I was limited by my yarn so it's not terribly long. You can always add another repeat of the pattern if you'd like, though - so instead of the direction "Knit rows 1 - 16 twice and then knit rows 1 - 9 once more" you can knit rows 1 - 16 three times, then rows 1 - 9, and then begin the decrease!!! Just make sure you have enough yarn. :)

      Delete