Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Funner Summer Beach Bag

Funner Summer Beach Bag

Yeah, I know "funner" isn't a word. But my kids don't, and that was the inspiration for this brightly striped, cleverly constructed (in my opinion, at least!) bag. Designed seamlessly with faux i-cords for structure and a fun lace pattern, this is one of the sturdier and prettier knit bags you'll find. Knit it, and you'll make your summer more fun. Or, you know, go to the water slides or something like that instead. Your call. :)

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Whitney (91% Cotton, 9% Nylon; 87 yards [89 meters]/50 grams); #1001 Natural - three skeins (color A), #1009 Cranberry - two skeins (color B)

The lace pattern. So purty!
Needles: One set of double pointed needles in size US 8, one 16" circular needle in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, 9 stitch markers

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches 

So let's make a bag! First, then, I should mention that any time you're slipping stitches in this bag, you're pulling the yarn tight behind them. This will help to create that faux i-cord rib, and the edges of the strap. I should also mention that this bag is worked bottom-up. So with that in mind, using your color A yarn and your dpns, cast on 8 stitches loosely, divide evenly between four dpns, and join in round. Then we'll work a few set-up rows, as follows:

Set-up Row 1: using color A, * p1, m1r, p1; rep from * (+4 stitches)

Set-up Row 2: using color A, * p1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1 *

Set-up Row 3: using color A, * p1, m1r, k1, m1l, p1 * (+8 stitches)

Once these three set-up rows are done, we'll knit a marker placement row, as follows:

Set-up Row 4: using color A, * p1, place marker, slip 3 wyib, place marker, p1 *

And once that guy is done, we'll move on to our main increase pattern, like so:

Increase Row 1: using color A, * p1, knit until you reach marker, m1r, slip marker, k3, slip marker, m1l, knit until you have one stitch left on needle, p1 * (and yes, that means that you will not have any stitches to knit between your purls and your increases on your first repeat of this row) (+ 8 stitches)

Increase Row 2: using color A, * p1, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, slip 3 wyib, slip marker, knit until you have one stitch left on needle, p1 *

Increase Rows 3 - 8: using color B, knit increase rows 1 & 2 three times (+24 stitches)

Increase Rows 9 - 14: using color A, knit increase rows 1 & 2 three times
(+24 stitches)

Increase Rows 15 - 20: using color B, knit increase rows 1 & 2 three times
(+24 stitches)

Increase Rows 21 - 24: using color A, knit increase rows 1 & 2 twice
(+16 stitches)

Knit increase rows 1 - 24. At this point, you should 116 stitches on your needles. Transfer work to your circular needle, placing a row marker when you do so. If desired, you can remove your extra markers now, or you can leave them in to remind you where your faux i-cord are. Anyway, once it's transferred we'll knit two transition rows, as follows:

Transition Row 1: using color A, * p1, k27, p1 *

Transition Row 2: using color A, * p1, k12, slip 3 wyib, k12, p1 *

Knit these two transition rows, and then we'll begin the main pattern, which incorporates stripes of Little Lace Chain from page 234 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and for which you'll need the following notation:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together.

And now that we know that, let's continue as follows:

Row 1: using color B, * p1, k3, k2tog, yo, rt, yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo, rt, yo, ssk, k3, p1 *

Row 2: using color B, * p1, k12, slip 3 wyib, k12, p1 *

Row 3: using color B, * p1, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, yo, ssk, k2, p1 *

Row 4: using color B, * p1, k5, (p1, k1) in double yo, k5, slip 3 wyib, k5, (p1, k1) in double yo, k5, p1 *

Row 5: using color B, * p1, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k11, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, p1 *

Row 6: using color B, repeat row 2

Rows 7 - 12: using color A, knit rows 1 - 6

Knit rows 1 - 12 six times. Now, we're going to divide our stitches into four groups in order to complete the strap and the edging. With that in mind, thread the 13 stitches on either side of the row marker (so 26 in total) on to one scrap of yarn. Thread the next 32 stitches onto a second scrap of yarn; the next 26 onto a third scrap of yarn, and the final 32 onto a fourth scrap of yarn. Your 32-stitch clumps will become the strap, so let's work on those first. Choosing either section of 32 stitches, place stitches back on needles and we'll begin to work back and forth as follows. Notice the marker placement row to start.

Row 1 (right side): using color B, k3, ssk, k10, place marker, p2, place marker, k10, k2tog, k3 (-2 stitches)

Rows 2, 4 & 6: using color B, slip 3 with yarn in front (wyif), purl until you reach marker, slip marker, k2, slip marker, purl until you have 3 stitches left in row, slip 3 wyif

Rows 3 & 5: using color B, k3, ssk, knit until you reach stitch marker, slip marker, p2, slip marker, knit until you have five stitches left in row, k2tog, k3 (-2 stitches each)

Row 7 - 12: using color A, knit rows 1 - 6, replacing row 1 with row 3 (since you don't need to place markers again) (-6 stitches)

Rows 13 - 18: using color B, knit rows 1 - 6, replacing row 1 with row 3 (-6 stitches)

Knit rows 1 - 18 and cut your color B yarn tail, since we're done with it. Then we'll begin our main strap pattern, as follows:

Strap Row 1 (right side): using color A, knit

Strap Row 2: using color A, slip 3 wyif, purl until there are 3 stitches left in row, slip 3 wyif

Knit strap rows 1 & 2 until the main strap section measures roughly 24" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer live stitches to a scrap of yarn for safekeeping and then place the other set of 32 stitches on your needles (this set should be across from the first one). Continue like so:

Row 1 (right side): using color B, k3, ssk, k10, place marker, p2, place marker, k10, k2tog, k3 (-2 stitches)

Rows 2, 4 & 6: using color B, slip 3 with yarn in front (wyif), purl until you reach marker, slip marker, k2, slip marker, purl until you have 3 stitches left in row, slip 3 wyif

Rows 3 & 5: using color B, k3, ssk, knit until you reach stitch marker, slip marker, p2, slip marker, knit until you have five stitches left in row, k2tog, k3 (-2 stitches each)

Row 7 - 12: using color A, knit rows 1 - 6, replacing row 1 with row 3 (since you don't need to place markers again) (-6 stitches)

Rows 13 - 18: using color B, knit rows 1 - 6, replacing row 1 with row 3 (-6 stitches)

Knit rows 1 - 18 and clip your color B yarn tail. Then knit the following two strap rows:

Strap Row 1 (right side): using color A, knit

Strap Row 2: using color A, slip 3 wyif, knit until there are 3 stitches left in row, slip 3 wyif

Now, you should have live stitches on either end of your strap. Use the Kitchener stitch to graft strap together. Finally, transfer one of your remaining sets of 26 stitches on to your needles. Complete the edging as follows:

Edging Row 1 (right side): using color B, knit

Edging Row 2: using color B, knit

Edging Row 3: using color B, purl

Edging Row 4: using color B, knit

Knit these four edging rows and bind off loosely. Repeat with final 26 stitch section. Stitch edging in place where it curls under naturally, and then throw in a couple of stitches between the edge of the edging and the strap in order to secure them. Tuck in ends and block.









12 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. Glad to hear it! I was really pleased with how this one turned out. And please, if you decide to make it, let me know if you have any questions. :)

      Delete
    2. Can you tell me the approximate dimensions when full of swim gear, please. Thanks, Ruthie

      Delete
    3. Hi Ruthie!

      The bag is about 27" in circumference (and can stretch, of course, since it's knit) and 18" from the bottom center to the beginning of the strap, or roughly 14" from the edge of the bottom to the strap. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

      Delete
  2. You are so talented and creative. We will get so much use out of this. Can't wait for the weekend to cast on. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I found this to be a reasonably quick, fun knit, and I love the way it turned out!!!! I hope it goes equally well for you. :)

      Delete
  3. I think I'll have to make about of dozen of these to replace the plastic bags that are holding my various hibernating WIPs. I love this!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yay! :) I think I'm going to play around with the faux i-cord idea more too, in some other bag designs. Seems like a good summer project. :)

      Delete
  4. Hello! First of all, I love the patterns you have on your blog! Now to my question: this sounds stupid but what does m1r/l mean? I'm still fairly a beginner to knitting so don't know all the short hand used in patterns. Thanks in advance!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there!

      First of all, I'm glad to hear that you enjoy my patterns! I always aim to please. :) And secondly, you have uncanny timing - you're the second person who's asked this today! Which makes it very easy for me to copy and paste my response below. But before we get to that - as always, please let me know if you have any more questions!

      Oh, and here's the response to your question:

      "M1r and m1l are make 1 right and make 1 left, respectively, and you can find directions for these stitches here: http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/92-how-to/1046-make-1-left-or-right-m1-m1l-m1r

      Also, in general, you can find answers to any terminology questions here: http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/p/glossary-of-knitting-terms.html (there's also a link to this page at the top of every page, below the header)"

      Delete
  5. I love this bag! It might end up being a bit longer than I wanted, since I plan to use it as a huge purse, and I think I'm going to make the strap longer so I can get it over my shoulder, but it's so cute and capacious!

    Just one thing - in the strap instructions, I'm guessing it's knit the right side, purl the wrong side?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes! Great catch, I'll fix it! Thanks, and let me know if anything else comes up! :)

      Delete