Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Fan Lace Hat

Fan Lace Hat

Well, I figured it was high time for me to use the rest of this yarn. And after completing the Field of Tulips Cowl and the Tons of Triangles Cowl, all I had left was the reddish color, and just enough for a slouchy, spring-weight hat. Therefore, the Fan Lace Hat was born. And it's a fun knit, if I may say so myself!

The fan lace pattern, closer-up
Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sierra (80% Pima Cotton, 20% Merino Wool; 191 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #55 Sunset - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 8, one 16" circular needle in size US 6

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

So let's do this thing! First of all, then, using your size 6 needle, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll begin with this ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * (k1, p1) twice, k1; rep from *

Knit ribbing row 6 times and then switch to your size 8 needle and knit the following transition row:

Transition Row: * k1, p1, kfb, p1, k1 * (120 stitches)

And now, it's time to move to our pattern, which is a slight variation on Fan Lace from page 216 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Row 1 and all odd rows: knit

Row 2: * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *

Row 4: * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *

Row 6: * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1 *

Row 8: * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, k1 *

Knit rows 1 - 8 three times (you could even knit one more repeat, if you desire an extra-slouchy hat and have enough yarn). And now it's time to begin the decreases, which go as follows:

Decrease row 1: knit

Row 2: * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3 through back loops, k1, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 * (110 stitches)

Row 3: knit

Row 4: * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2 through back loops, k1, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 * (100 stitches)

Row 5: * k14, sl1-k2tog-psso, k3 * (90 stitches)

Row 6: * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 * (80 stitches)

You'll probably want to switch to your dpns right about now, if you haven't already

Row 7: * k12, sl1-k2tog-psso, k1 *  (70 stitches)

Row 8: * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, sl1-k2tog-psso * (60 stitches)

Row 9: * ssk, k7, k2tog, k1 * (50 stitches)

Row 10: * ssk, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k2tog, k1 * (40 stitches)

Row 11: * ssk, k3, k2tog, k1 * (30 stitches)

Row 12: * k1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2 * (20 stitches)

Row 13: * sl1-k2tog-psso, k1 * (10 stitches)

Clip tail, thread through remaining 10 stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.




47 comments:

  1. That's a b. e. a-utiful design and I love the slouch.
    Since you seem to love to design, could you make recommendations to make this more chemo-patient friendly? Something smaller, no slouch perhaps? I love having options to take to our Infusion Unit ;)

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    1. I'm glad you like my design! I think the best way to convert this to a less-slouchy shape (without completely rewriting the pattern) would be as follows:

      Instead of using a worsted-weight yarn, use a sport weight yarn where 23 stitches = 4 inches. You'll probably be knitting on a size 4 or 5 16" circular needle to accomplish this. Then, using a 16" circular needle that's one size smaller than your gauge size, cast on 120 stitches, and complete 6-8 repeats of a simple k1, p1 ribbing (depending on how long you want the ribbed section - and the reason I don't recommend the ribbing as given is that it won't line up with the pattern in this variation). Anyway, once you're done with that, change to your gauge-size needle, skip the transition row, and move straight to the pattern as given. You will probably need to knit the pattern rows one more time than I did (you'll want the hat to measure 6 or so inches before you begin the decreases), but other than that, the directions should be exactly the same, and the hat won't puff out after the ribbing any more, but fit closer to the head instead. Hope that helps!

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  2. Replies
    1. Thanks Debby, I'm glad to hear it! Please let me know if you ever choose to knit any of them and have trouble. I'm always happy to help :)

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  3. Português do Brasil:Eu adoro gorros, e os seus,são maravilhosos!! Agora, vou tentar escrever em Inglês, mas entenda, eu não sei falar inglês bem, ok? Um grande abraço!!
    English: I love hats, and yours, are wonderful!! Now, I am trying to write in english, but you must undestand that I don't know speak english well, ok? A big hug!!

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    1. Well, your English is definitely better than my Portuguese! And I'm glad to hear you like my patterns :) If you every knit any and have questions, please let me know!

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  4. Gretchen,
    I love this pattern, but it doesn't have the number of stitches per line. Do you have them, it will make it easier for me to knit.
    Thank you!

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    Replies
    1. Hi! I've been out of town, so I apologize for the delayed response. But I will get to this just as soon as I can - worst case scenario it will be later this afternoon, and hopefully sooner! :)

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  5. When ever you can, its a holiday weekend.

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    Replies
    1. They should be up now! Let me know if that's not what you mean, though :)

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  6. Thank you, I just don't see it for the pattern part. Sorry to bug you!!

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    1. No worries! There is no change in stitch count for any of the pattern rows - the 120 stitches are maintained, with a 12 stitch pattern repeat. Is that what you're asking?

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  7. I love, love, love this pattern! So well written and so much fun to watch it take shape! I will make another! Thank you!

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    1. Hi Jane!

      I'm so glad to hear it! Can't beat a pretty hat :)

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  8. Help please I'm working on this pattern down to row 8 of dec's I put all 70 sts on dpn which took 5 needles evenly space. I now know this was a mistake. Can I use a straight needle to get to my next step? Will this ruin the hat? I don't have another dpn. Will you help me move on to my next step ? Thank you . Cassandra

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    1. Hi Cassandra!

      Sorry for the delay in replying - yesterday was busy with the kids! Anyway, just distribute your stitches on three dpns and you should be fine (even if you can't distribute your stitches exactly evenly). You may need to scoot a stitch or two between needles at some point, but it should definitely work out! Let me know if that doesn't make sense or if you have any more questions - I should be quicker to reply during the week :)

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  9. Hi Gretchen Tracy!

    I know how it is when you have little ones. It makes sense to me I have taken care of that problem, I have a even bigger problem while I was putting the stitches on dpn's some of the stitches fell off the needles and I don't have a clue on how to fix lace stitches on dpn's. I can't find the lose stitches all I see are long loops. That is one reason why I don't like using dpn's. And this is my first lace hat. Can you help me please. Thank you in advance. Cassandra

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    1. Hello again!

      Unfortunately, I have no magic solutions (wouldn't that be nice!). However, I did find this youtube video that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3D18epTwq0. It shows what dropped yo's look like and how to fix them. As a last resort, if you're unable to find your yo's, you can always also rip out a few rows very carefully and pick your stitches back up a few rows down. And please, let me know if I've misunderstood your problem and I'll try to find another resource for you! :)

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  10. I am hoping to knit this hat but need to buy the circular needles, are the sizes UK or US? Could you please advise, thank you.

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    1. They are US! I am trying to add this info to my new patterns (and I'll update this one now), and I apologize for the confusion :)

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    2. Thank you. I have got my circular needles 16" (40cm), but they look a bit small?

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    3. Do you mean that 16" looks too small for a hat? Don't worry, you can fit 20-some inches of stitches on a 16" needle, and this hat is definitely sized for adults! :)

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  11. I don't know what it means to 'knit through the back loop', because all my knit stitches are in the back of my work. I knit Eastern European style.

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    1. Hi Kay!

      The purpose of knitting through the back loop is to twist the stitch. As far as your question is concerned, I am not familiar with Eastern European style, but I looked a video up on YouTube, and it seems like you would twist a stitch by simply knitting through the front loop. I may be wrong about this (since I don't knit this way and watched a basic instructional video), but, like I said, all you're really trying to do is twist the stitch. Hope that helps :)

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  12. Your Fan Lace Hat is beautiful! Just one question. When you say "knit 3 through back of loops," do you mean knit 3 "together" through back of loops or each of the 3 stitches separately through the back of the loops? Thank you so much. I really want to make this hat.

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    1. Hello there! And nope, not k3 together, just knit three stitches individually through their back loops. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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    2. Thanks again!. I certainly did not expect such a quick reply, but I do appreciate it. Think I'll get the yarn to start the hat today. Hope you had great Thanksgiving.

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    3. You're welcome! And happy knitting (and belated Thanksgiving)! :)

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  13. Hello! I love this pattern, but I was hoping you might be able to help me scale it down to a smaller size? Thank you!

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    1. Sure! :) What size are we talking about?

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  14. I was hoping to scale it down to maybe 70 or 80 stitches? But I wasn't sure what multiples the stitches are worked in. And thank you for replying so quickly

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  15. Replies
    1. Hello again! Just to be clear, you still want this to be an adult sized hat, right? Assuming that to be true, you need a yarn and needles that yield about 12 stitches per 4 inches (this will be a chunky yarn, likely on size 11 needles). Using a size 10 16" circular needle, then, cast on 60 stitches. Then follow the pattern exactly, switching to your size 11 needle right before your transition row. This row will take you to 72 stitches, which will work with the pattern as written. The only other difference is that you'll have 6 stitches at the end rather than 10. Of course, changing the yarn gauge will change the look of the hat as well - it is likely that the lace will be less well defined :)

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  16. Replies
    1. You're welcome! Just let me know if you have any more questions :)

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  17. Hi Gretchen, I think your hat pattern is beautiful, but I do not have circular needles...is there a way I could do this on straight needles?

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    1. Hello there!

      Yes, this pattern could be converted to be knit on straight needles. I have another pattern conversion in the queue ahead of this one, so give me a few days and I'll get it up!

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    2. Awesome, thanks!

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    3. Will it be posted separately? or on this page?

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    4. I'll post it as a reply to your comment. That way you can't miss it! :)

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    5. Oh perfect! Thank you :)

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    6. Hello again! I have worked up this pattern for you, but I should warn you of one thing; in order to maintain the decrease as-is, I had to put in some weird wrong-side decrease stitches. Namely, the ssp and the sssp. You will find a link to instructions for them below (when you reach them). If you'd rather not do them, you can replace them with a p2tog and p3tog, but of course that will change the finished look of the hat. Oh, and make sure you're knitting the right one - ssp does look an awful lot like sssp, after all! :)

      Anyway, let me know if you have any questions! Good luck!

      So let's do this thing! First of all, then, using your size 6 needle, cast on 102 stitches. And then we’ll move straight to the ribbing rows, like so:

      Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * (p1, k1) twice, p1; rep from * until you’re one stitch before end of row; end p1

      Ribbing Row 2: k1, * (k1, p1) twice, k1 *; end k1

      Knit ribbing rows 1 – 2 three times and then knit row 1 once more. Then, switch to your size 8 needle and knit the following transition row:

      Transition Row (right side): k1, * k1, p1, kfb, p1, k1 *; end k1 (122 stitches)

      And now, it's time to move to our pattern, which is a slight variation on Fan Lace from page 216 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns and goes as follows:

      Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl

      Row 2: k1, * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1

      Row 4: k1, * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1

      Row 6: k1, * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1 *; end k1

      Row 8: k1, * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, k1 *; end k1

      Knit rows 1 - 8 three times (you could even knit one more repeat, if you desire an extra-slouchy hat and have enough yarn). And now it's time to begin the decreases, which go as follows:

      Decrease row 1 (wrong side): purl

      Row 2: k1, * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3 through back loops, k1, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (112 stitches)

      Row 3: purl

      Row 4: k1, * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2 through back loops, k1, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (102 stitches)

      Row 5: p1, * p3, sssp, p14 *; end p1 (92 stitches) (okay, I had to make up the sssp. It stands for “slip, slip, slip, purl” and should be performed the same as the “slip, slip, purl” except with one extra stitch. Here’s a link to the ssp, for instruction: http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/92-how-to/1141-slip-slip-purl-ssp)

      Row 6: k1, * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (82 stitches)

      Row 7: p1, * p1, sssp, p12 *; end p1 (72 stitches)

      Row 8: k1, * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, sl1-k2tog-psso *; end k1 (62 stitches)

      Row 9: p1, * p1, p2tog, p7, ssp *; end p1 (52 stitches)

      Row 10: k1, * ssk, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (42 stitches)

      Row 11: p1, * p1, p2tog, p3, ssp *; end p1 (32 stitches)

      Row 12: k1, * k1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2 *; end k1 (22 stitches)

      Row 13: p1, * p1, sssp *; end p1 * (12 stitches)

      Clip tail, and transfer final 12 stitches to a scrap of yarn to hold. Seam hat from the bottom edge. When you reach the top, thread seaming yarn through final 12 stitches and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.

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    7. yay! I hope this wasn't too much work! thank you :)

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  18. Made this hat for myself (that's rare, me knitting for myself!) and love this hat (and I don't wear hats!) A couple of tips that helped me keep from making mistakes - I put markers in at each of the 5 sections, that way I could quickly count to make sure I had the right number of stitches before moving on to the next section. I also chose to go for "extra slouchy" by adding one more repeat of 1-8 which was perfect for accommodating my abundant curls and not flattening them out. I used exactly one ball (literally, 5 inches ish left ~) of Red Heart Boutique Midnight "Nightfall" yarn. It's lovely. Thank you for sharing your patterns.

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    1. Yay! I'm glad to hear that this hat turned out so well for you. :) It sounds like you're full of good lace-knitting tips. And finally: don't you love it when that happens with the yarn? I love feeling like I'm not wasting anything!!!!

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