Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Okay, I bought this yarn a couple of years ago (I think my plan, at the time, was to knit a sock monkey out of it.  But then I knit two OTHER sock monkeys, got bored, and put my yarn in the closet).  Anyway, I've been looking for a good use for it ever since, because it is admittedly quite girly but a big enough gauge that it's never going to look dainty.  And while I considered doing fingerless gloves (with a thumb hole, you know), ultimately I decided that this pattern would look best without the disruption.  And I have to say - I love the pattern, and the way that the variegation knitted up in stripes.  With one less pattern repeat, this would also be an excellent design for little girls.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - just one skein, baby!

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 8

A close-up!  Dude, I love this pattern.

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (well, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch.  The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's and I can't spend the $$$ to buy a set.  Either way it worked)

Before we get started, let's take a moment to talk about sizing.  My forearms are about 8 inches in circumference and each iteration of this pattern (7 stitches per repeat) adds about an inch to the total circumference.  Therefore, if your forearms are one inch bigger, you can always add another set of 7 stitches (or if they're two inches bigger, two more sets, etc. - just remember that, if you choose to use this yarn or a similar one, the variegation won't knit up the exact same way).  Basically, this pattern is a deep rib, and you have lots of room to play.  So let's get to it!

Cast on 42 stitches (49, 56, etc.) and divide between 3 dpns in groups of 7 as evenly as possible.  Join in round.  If you cast on an even number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a k1, p1 ribbing.  Or, if you cast on an odd number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 ribbing.

Tie-Closure Lace Trellis Cowl

Tie-Closure Lace Trellis Cowl

I can't help it: I'm a sucker for a cotton yarn, even though they're heavy, and have a tendency to curl.  To combat this, I've knit another one-piece, open-work cowl which can be left unblocked and still looks pretty, especially with the I-cord ties.  And again, it's another good piece for spring, what with its rakish, rustic charm and all.  Yeah, I'm done...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3721 Ginseng - just one skein needed.

Needles: Straight or circular needle(s) in size 6, one set double pointed needles (dpn) in size 6 (I used 5's, but hey, that's what I've got!)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (this will have a much looser gauge)

This cowl is knit in the Vertical Lace Trellis pattern from Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.  However, as a note, I've written this pattern to add stitches to the work, which will change the appearance of the trellis slightly.  You will probably notice the change when you stop increasing, just fyi.  But let's get started!

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Okie dokie!  First of all.  The reason I started knitting this hat was to test my hypothesis that I could knit two of the beasts out of the same ball of yarn (since this is the same stuff I made the Twisted Check Hat out of).  And guess what?  It couldn't be done!  However, instead of going the boring route and buying yet another ball of the same color, I decided to switch it up and change colors, partially so that I wouldn't have to knit a THIRD hat out of the gray (I've got big plans for the blue, though, let me tell you).  Obviously, you wouldn't have to change colors to make this hat, if you didn't want to, or you could even stripe it every six rows, since if you look closely at the color change (there's a better picture below), the way the fabric tugs into the cables actually looks pretty good.  Or you could trim it with a crochet stitch on the bottom, if you wanted to tie the blue back in, or even add a tassel or a pom-pom of the gray.  So many options!  Any way you do it, I think this is a gorgeous texture for a hat.  So let's get this party started!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #500 Duo Tone - one skein, and #505 Caribbean blue - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 8, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

And... from the back!

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1 inch

Now, before we begin the main pattern, which is adapted to the round from the Marrowbone Pattern from page 204 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, let's do a little notation note:

fc (front cross): slide 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, then k3 from cn

fc2 (front cross 2): slide 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cn

fc1 (front cross 1): slide 1 stitch to cn and hold in front, k1, then k1 from cn