Arrowhead Lace Cowl

Arrowhead Lace Cowl

The idea for this cowl has been brewing for some time now, and I finally got a yarn that seemed perfect for it (also, the fact that it's basically a worsted-weight cotton makes it knit up quickly, and have a nice, cozy weight).  Basically, it's buttoned in the back, with a ribbed section to go around the neck, and then it explodes into a wide lace bit for the front.  And it's really fun to knit, if I do say so myself.

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Sweet Caroline (100% Cotton; 76 yards [69 meters]/50 grams); #4021 White/Yellow - two skeins

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 1/2" or 7/16" inch buttons, plus needle and thread if your yarn won't fit through the button holes

The pattern, yo.

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started!  Cast on 21 stitches, and work the first couple of rows to include buttonholes as follows:

Row 1 (right side): * k1, p1; repeat from *

Row 2: * p1, k1 *

Row 3 (buttonhole row): k1, k2tog, yo, (p1, k1) x 3, k2tog, yo, (p1, k1) x 3, p1, yo, ssk, k1

Continue to work fabric in a k1, p1 ribbing until piece measures about 4 inches in length, and you're just about to begin a right-side row.  Now it's time to work some short rows for shaping.

Dimpled Eyelet Hat

Dimpled Eyelet Hat

Okay, so here's the deal.  I made the Dimpled Eyelet Cowl and really liked the tiny section of the pattern that wasn't fully eyeleted (which came as a result of the circular knitting and such).  I've also had this sock yarn kicking around my stash for years now, and this seemed like a perfect opportunity to use it.  Of course, as soon as I started making it, my four-year-old claimed it as his, which is why he insisted on being in many of the photos.  Even better, due to his enormous head and the hat's natural slouchiness, it fits everyone from a four-year-old to an adult!

Yarn: ShibuiKnits Sock (100% Superwash Merino; 191 yards [175 meters]/50 grams); #51305 Zinnea - one skein, but I got WICKED close to the end on this one, so you will probably want slightly more yarn, or two skeins just in case


Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 3, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 3

A close-up of the pattern

Notions: one stitch marker or scrap of yarn, tapestry needle

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 160 stitches, place marker, and join in round.  Next, knit one inch in the following ribbing pattern:

Ribbing pattern: * k1, p2, k1; repeat from *

And now it's time to switch to the main pattern, which goes as follows:

Row 1: * k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk *

Row 2: knit all stitches except double yo's, where you will p1 in first yo, and k1 in back loop of second yo

Rows 3 & 4: knit

Dimpled Eyelet Cowl

Dimpled Eyelet Cowl

Okay, I hate to sound like an orange-yarn-hating jerk here, but I'm SO GLAD I FINISHED KNITTING THE TWO SKEINS OF THIS STUFF I BOUGHT (since I already knit the Feather Lace Cowl and the Gathered Mesh Cowl out of the same yarn).  Pheee-eeeew.  And now that that's off my chest, let's talk about the pattern.  At heart, this thing is based on an upside-down picot eyelet, and it's knit from the top down with stitches added every other row for shape (this also helps stagger the eyelet pattern).  It's a shape that's been brewing in my head for awhile now too, so I'm glad it's finally come to fruition.  It's also got a very lovely texture!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sateen (100% Acrylic; 300.7 yards [275 meters]/100 grams); #24 Orange Poppy - one skein


Ze pattern, mes amis.

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 4

Notions: two stitch markers or scraps of yarn, tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 161 stitches, place marker, join in round. 

Set-up Row 1: purl 80 stitches, place second marker, purl

Set-up Row 2: knit, slipping second marker when you come to it

Madeira Mesh Cowl

Madeira Mesh Cowl

I'll be honest: I bought this yarn because it was on sale, and I thought it was very pretty in a neutral sort of way.  And then I found this nice stitch pattern, which is both reversible and open, and I FINALLY convinced myself to make a simple cowl, without any shaping, whose difficulty lies in the stitch pattern alone.  Yup, that pretty much covers it.

Yarn: Berroco Linsey (64% Cotton, 36% Linen; 114 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); #6556 Shell - two skeins

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 6

A close-up of the pattern

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or yarn scrap to mark end of round

Gauge: 21 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 144 stitches, place marker, and join in round.  Next, knit one set-up row in a knit one, purl one design.  Finally, it's time to begin the main pattern, which is Madeira Mesh from page 151 of Barbara G. Walter's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Rows 1, 3, & 5: * yo, p3tog, yo, k3; rep from *

Peaks & Cables Hat

Peaks & Cables Hat

Okay, so I lost track sometime during last week's vacation, but I ripped this hat out either three or four times before I finally left it sitting around as nothing more than a band of ribbing (luckily, I didn't have to finish it three or four times before I realized each of those times was ugly).  Then I made the cowl for my mom and forgot about the hat entirely.  But since I'm trying to finish the projects I start (except for that quilt from 7 years ago, of course), I finally got some inspiration and hammered through.  And I have to say, my husband thinks it's my best one yet (on a completely unrelated note, I just remembered that my post-apocalyptic New Orleans dream last night featured a whole segment where the tops of my hats, where I pull the stitches together y'know, were starting to tug undone and it was IMPERATIVE that I fix them all right then despite the chaos.  not that I have knitting anxiety dreams or anything...).

Update (4/24/14): For anyone out there who prefers to knit with charts, Raveler bebamima was kind enough to whip some up and then pass them along. You can find charts for both the main pattern and the decreases at the bottom of this post, or shoot me an email if you'd prefer jpgs (ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com). Thanks bebamima!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9863 Spring Meadow - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8 and a set of double-pointed needles in size 8

The pattern.  A cable, and then a peak.

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using size 8 needles, cast on 112 stitches, place marker, and join in round.  Knit 1" in k1, p1 ribbing.  Now it's time to begin your main pattern, for which you'll need the following notation:

bc (back cross): slip two stitches to cn and hold in back; knit two stitches, knit two stitches from cn

So let's get to it!

Row 1: * k4, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo; rep from *

Row 2 and all even rows, including final row 8: knit

Row 3: * bc, k1, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k1 *

Tie-Closure Lace Cowl II

Tie-Closure Lace Cowl II (yeah, the picture is lopsided.  there was baby intervention)

First, let me apologize for how long it's been since my last pattern post - there was a disastrous family vacation and all kinds of illness that got in the way.  Of course, on the plus side, said disastrous vacation resulted in one good thing: I raided my mom's yarn stash and found a single decent skein, which was as petite as it was pretty (146 yards isn't a lot, you know) (also, mom, what's up with all the novelty yarns???).  So in exchange for stealing it, I promised to make it into something nice for her, even though I was limited by the very limited amount.  So I came up with this.  Also, both of the ties are made from my embroidery floss collection, although of course you could make them with the same yarn, or even ribbon if you didn't want to bother with the I-cords.

Yarn: Blue Sky Alpacas Alpaca & Silk (50% Alpaca; 50% Silk; 146 yards [133 meters]/50 grams); #136 - this color is discontinued and older than either of my children, so I have no idea what the name of it is, but I used just one skein!

A poorly-lit close-up of the pattern.
Once again, I blame the baby.

Embroidery Floss: Sullivan's (100% Cotton; 8.7 yards [8 meters]); #45325 - one skein, but you will need pretty much the whole thing

Embroidery Floss: Sullivan's (100% Cotton; 8.7 yards [8 meters]); #45000 (Ecru) - also one skein, and you will also need all of this one

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 5 (well, I knit this on a circular needle, but you get the point - it goes back and forth), and two dpns in size 1, for knitting the embroidery floss

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's get to it!  First, using your size 5 needles and your regular yarn, cast on 5 stitches and knit one row.  Now we're going to work some increases and get started on the pattern, which goes as follows:

Italian Wheat Hat

Italian Wheat Hat

Um, so it's a hat?  Yes, definitely a hat.  I got the idea for this after knitting the Wheat Ear Cuff, since I thought the cabling could be retooled into a cool hat.  And that's pretty much all I've got for this one...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Quatro (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5019 Green Tea - I used what was left after I made the Zig Zag Legwarmers, which was almost exactly 3/4 of a skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one 16" circular needle in size 10, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 10, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

The finishing.

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or scrap of yarn

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Cast on 108 stitches, place marker, and join in round.  Knit one inch in a k1, p1 ribbing.  Now it's time to switch to your size 10 circular needle, and your main pattern, which is a mash-up of Italian Chain Ribbing (from page 47 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns) and the Wheat Ear Cable (from page 244 of the same).  You'll need the following notation to get 'er done:

fc (front cross): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in front; knit 3, knit 3 from cn

fc-2: slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; knit 2, knit 2 from cn

Wheat Ear Cuff

Wheat Ear Cuff
Even the baby had to get in on this action...

As an avid knitter, I have what feels like thousands of small piles of yarn laying around the house; skeins with too little left to make anything "real", but just enough that my grandmother would yell at me if I threw them away (you should have seen her refrigerator!).  Hence the Wheat Ear Cuff, which not only makes an attractive bracelet, but would also make a sweet headband if knit to about 21" in size for an adult (unsurprisingly, I didn't have enough yarn for that!).

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - less than 1/3 skein

Needles: Straight needles in size #7 (to be fair, I knit this on a couple of double-pointed needles, but you know what I mean - it goes back and forth, not around!), cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

The buttons I found in the bottom of my knitting bag

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 7/16" buttons (or whatever you have laying around, as long as they will fit through the holes and secure the piece)

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette - however, for this piece, it doesn't matter much

First, let's talk about sizing.  This piece will look best with a tight fit, and since everyone's wrists are different, you will pretty much just want to knit it to the exact dimension of your own (or of the person you're giving it to).  However, my finished piece measures just over 7", if you really want to know.

Anyway, let's get started.  To begin, cast on 22 stitches.  The main pattern we're using is a very slight variation on the Wheat Ear Cable from page 244 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, but first we're going to work the buttonholes.  Or in other words:

Lace Butterfly Hat

Lace Butterfly Hat

Okay, so this hat is for the same person who requested the Mesh Flower Hat, and she wanted something that was similar and in the same yarn, but that had larger holes.  And that pretty much covers it, although I will note that this hat is slightly slouchier, and I had more yarn left over, so it didn't get quite as scary at the end.  Oh, and I think the "butterfly" aspect of the lace would show up better in a lighter-colored yarn, but I still like the vine-y nature of the pattern.

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light (50% Super Fine Alpaca, 50% Peruvian Wool; 144 yards [133 meters]/50 grams); #4277 Peat Mix - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 5, one 16" circular needle in size 8, one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size 8

Close-up of pattern

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or yarn scrap to mark end of round (the scrap might work better, given the gauge)

Gauge: 23 stitches = 4 inches on size 5 needles

So let's get started!  Using the size 5 circular needle, cast on 120 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round.  Work one inch in a k1, p1 ribbing and then switch to your size 8 needle; now it's time to begin the main pattern, which is Lace Butterfly from page 189 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. 

Row 1: * (yo) twice, ssk, k2tog; rep from *

Oopsie Daisy Diagonal Hat

Oopsie Daisy Diagonal Hat

Okay, so before we get any further - pretty much the only reason I made this hat was to see if I could make both the hat and the Lady Lawyer Arm Warmers with one skein of yarn.  And guess what?  It totally worked, and my children are rejoicing as we speak (that's a lie.  they're actually just yelling at me).  And besides that - well, the reason I called it the "Oopsie Daisy Diagonal Hat" was because the stitch pattern was a total accident, a cock-up if you will, since I meant to do something else.  By the time I realized it wasn't working out, though, I was too far along to care.  And I ended up liking the textured diagonals anyway, so it all worked out.  Especially the whole one-skein business.  So let's get to it

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine (50% Peruvian wool, 20% Super Fine Alpaca, 30% Nylon; 433 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #12171 Berry Pie Mix - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 3, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size 3

Close-up of the accidental pattern

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or scrap yarn

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 2 needles

Using circular needle, cast on 154 stitches, place marker or scrap yarn, and join in round.  Knit 1 inch in k1, p1 ribbing.

Now it's time to begin the main pattern.  Here goes!

Row 1: * k1, yo, ssk, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k1; rep from *

Lady Lawyer Arm Warmers

Lady Lawyer Arm Warmers

Okay!  So much like the last hat I posted, these arm warmers are for a friend, by request.  And as you've probably guessed by now, she's a lady lawyer in Alaska, where the courtrooms are cold but the justice is hot (or so they say).  Either way, she wanted something delicate and eggplant-y, and I loved this stitch pattern too much to use any other (none of the pictures show it really well, but the basic pattern is a big hole in the center of a four-stitch rib, and then two little holes on the side two rows up, repeated over and over).  Or in other words, it's perfect for all your Alaskan justice-related needs.

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine (50% Peruvian wool, 20% Super Fine Alpaca, 30% Nylon; 433 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #12171 Berry Pie Mix - one skein

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 1

Notions: Tapestry needle

A little bit better view of the pattern, with a twist

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 2 needles

Now, before we get started, let's talk about sizing for a moment.  To make these arm warmers, I cast on 72 stitches, and they're intended for a person whose forearms and base-of-thumb hand-parts measure roughly 9.5" around.  Each iteration of the pattern is 6 stitches and little under 1"; for that reason, you can change the size of these arm warmers by simply casting on more or less stitches.  If your forearms are smaller than 9.5" you can comfortably wear larger arm warmers, but they won't stretch and show the pattern off as well.  So if your forearms/base-of-thumb-hand-parts measure about 8.5", consider casting on 66 stitches, cast on 60 stitches if they measure 7.5", and even less if you're making these for a child (and conversely, cast on 78, 84, etc. stitches if your forearms and hands are larger).  Luckily, this is only something you have to think about once, when you do your initial cast-on!  So let's get started.

Mesh Flower Hat

Mesh Flower Hat

Alrighty!  First of all, I have to admit that I am super excited about this hat, pretty much exclusively because I knit it to specification for a friend.  Or in other words, she wanted something black, slouchy, and light-weight that would serve for multiple seasons.  And this hat is all of those things, and is even knit in a mesh (although I wasn't able to get a good close-up, so you're just going to have to trust that there are little holes between all of those nubblies).  Plus, a flower!  Awww....

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light (50% Super Fine Alpaca, 50% Peruvian Wool; 144 yards [133 meters]/50 grams); #4245 Pitch Black - I used one skein but I only had 15 feet or so left by the end - so you may need two skeins, ESPECIALLY if you decide to make this hat a bit slouchier

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 5, one 16" circular needle in size 4, one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size 4

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or yarn scrap to mark end of round (the scrap might work better, given the gauge)

Gauge: 23 stitches = 4 inches on size 5 needles

So let's get started!  Using the size 5 circular needle, cast on 120 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round.

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1 inch, then switch to your size 4 circular needle and the mesh pattern, which is as follows:

Row 1: * yo, ssk; rep from *

Row 2: * yo, p2tog *

Repeat rows 1 & 2 until piece measures about 6 inches in length (if you want to make sure you can knit it with one skein, maybe only knit until it measures 5 1/2" here) and you've just completed row 2.  You can add another inch or so if you have another skein and want it extra-slouchy.  Then, to continue, you'll need the following notation:

Zig Zag Legwarmers

Zig Zag Legwarmers

So, in case you can't tell from the socks I'm wearing in this picture, I love me some bright colors.  That's probably why I fell in love with this yarn as soon as I saw it.  And besides that - well, I wanted a zig zag pattern and I thought it would be cool to change the texture of the stripes (hence the seed stitch).  The use of the twisted stitches also adds another interesting dimension to the legwarmers, especially when scrunched up.  And finally, each iteration of this pattern (the two zig zag stripes) is 12 stitches in total, which adds 2 inches to the circumference, so these legwarmers are easy to size up and down.  As they're knitted, they have a 12 inch circumference and are about 11 inches top to bottom - add 12 more stitches and they'll be 14 inches around, subtract 12 and they'll be 10 and good for a child.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Quatro (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5019 Green Tea - two skeins (I knit almost exactly 1.5 legwarmers with one skein, so you should still have plenty of yarn if you size them up)

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 8, one set double-pointed needles in size 7 

A close-up of the pattern.  So cheery!

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Using the size 7 dpns, cast on 72 (60, 84) stitches, divide between three dpns in groups of 12 stitches, and join in round

Knit in p1, k1 ribbing for 1 inch (please note that's purl one, knit one, NOT k1, p1), and then you're going to switch patterns AND needles - it's time to head to the #8's.  You'll need the following notation to proceed:

Feather Lace Cowl

Feather Lace Cowl

Okay.  So I had more orange yarn after making the Gathered Mesh Cowl, but my fingers weren't up to the task of knitting another cowl on size 4 needles (I don't know about you, but smaller gauges really tax my hands).  Anyway, since I wanted to use bigger needles, I definitely had to work another mesh/lace design, so I came up with this.  It's very simple, with the only shaping coming in the form of the bind-off, and it's reversible and great for spring!  So let's get to it.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sateen (100% Acrylic; 300.7 yards [275 meters]/100 grams); #24 Orange Poppy - once again, just one skein

A close-up of the pattern.  Once again, it's reversible!

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 8

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 4 needles (but since we're using 8's, who cares, eh?)

Cast on 180 stitches, place marker, join in round

Slouchy Baby-Cabled Stocking Hat

Slouchy Baby-Cabled Beanie.  To the stars.

All right!  So I had this yarn left over after finishing the Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat, and I wanted to make something that screamed '80s ski bunny, while also being versatile.  And hence this hat was born.  Basically, it's a hat with a little more give than your average beanie, which makes it perfect for multiple styles or big hair, and the pom pom is an optional accent.  I love the way this yarn's variegation knitted up in this pattern, too!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #505 Caribbean blue - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 8

Hey look!  You can fold the edge up too, if you want!

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 104 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k2, p2 ribbing for 4 inches, and then you're going to switch patterns.  You'll need the following notation to proceed:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)

Now let's get to it!

Heart Headband

Heart Headband

As you may have guessed, I mostly knit this headband as a good way to get rid of some more of that skein of yarn I used for the Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers.  I also, admittedly, love hearts.  Finally, the adult version of this headband is intended for a head of about 22 inches in circumference; it would be easy to knit this pattern for a child by omitting 12 stitches, which would shave about 2 inches from the final circumference (and you'd cast on 84 stitches instead of 96).  And that's all I've got...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - maybe 1/3 skein?

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size #8

How it looks without the whole head-stretching-out aspect.

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (once again, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch. The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and yet again I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's in a circular needle either.  However, it's a pretty standard worsted weight, so any worsted weight yarn should work)

Cast on 96 (84) stitches, place marker, join in round.  Knit two rows in seed stitch, or in other words,

Row 1: * k1, p1; rep from *

Row 2: * p1, k1 *

Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Okay, I bought this yarn a couple of years ago (I think my plan, at the time, was to knit a sock monkey out of it.  But then I knit two OTHER sock monkeys, got bored, and put my yarn in the closet).  Anyway, I've been looking for a good use for it ever since, because it is admittedly quite girly but a big enough gauge that it's never going to look dainty.  And while I considered doing fingerless gloves (with a thumb hole, you know), ultimately I decided that this pattern would look best without the disruption.  And I have to say - I love the pattern, and the way that the variegation knitted up in stripes.  With one less pattern repeat, this would also be an excellent design for little girls.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - just one skein, baby!

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 8

A close-up!  Dude, I love this pattern.

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (well, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch.  The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's and I can't spend the $$$ to buy a set.  Either way it worked)

Before we get started, let's take a moment to talk about sizing.  My forearms are about 8 inches in circumference and each iteration of this pattern (7 stitches per repeat) adds about an inch to the total circumference.  Therefore, if your forearms are one inch bigger, you can always add another set of 7 stitches (or if they're two inches bigger, two more sets, etc. - just remember that, if you choose to use this yarn or a similar one, the variegation won't knit up the exact same way).  Basically, this pattern is a deep rib, and you have lots of room to play.  So let's get to it!

Cast on 42 stitches (49, 56, etc.) and divide between 3 dpns in groups of 7 as evenly as possible.  Join in round.  If you cast on an even number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a k1, p1 ribbing.  Or, if you cast on an odd number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 ribbing.

Tie-Closure Lace Trellis Cowl

Tie-Closure Lace Trellis Cowl

I can't help it: I'm a sucker for a cotton yarn, even though they're heavy, and have a tendency to curl.  To combat this, I've knit another one-piece, open-work cowl which can be left unblocked and still looks pretty, especially with the I-cord ties.  And again, it's another good piece for spring, what with its rakish, rustic charm and all.  Yeah, I'm done...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3721 Ginseng - just one skein needed.

Needles: Straight or circular needle(s) in size 6, one set double pointed needles (dpn) in size 6 (I used 5's, but hey, that's what I've got!)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (this will have a much looser gauge)

This cowl is knit in the Vertical Lace Trellis pattern from Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.  However, as a note, I've written this pattern to add stitches to the work, which will change the appearance of the trellis slightly.  You will probably notice the change when you stop increasing, just fyi.  But let's get started!

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Okie dokie!  First of all.  The reason I started knitting this hat was to test my hypothesis that I could knit two of the beasts out of the same ball of yarn (since this is the same stuff I made the Twisted Check Hat out of).  And guess what?  It couldn't be done!  However, instead of going the boring route and buying yet another ball of the same color, I decided to switch it up and change colors, partially so that I wouldn't have to knit a THIRD hat out of the gray (I've got big plans for the blue, though, let me tell you).  Obviously, you wouldn't have to change colors to make this hat, if you didn't want to, or you could even stripe it every six rows, since if you look closely at the color change (there's a better picture below), the way the fabric tugs into the cables actually looks pretty good.  Or you could trim it with a crochet stitch on the bottom, if you wanted to tie the blue back in, or even add a tassel or a pom-pom of the gray.  So many options!  Any way you do it, I think this is a gorgeous texture for a hat.  So let's get this party started!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #500 Duo Tone - one skein, and #505 Caribbean blue - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 8, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

And... from the back!

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1 inch

Now, before we begin the main pattern, which is adapted to the round from the Marrowbone Pattern from page 204 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, let's do a little notation note:

fc (front cross): slide 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, then k3 from cn

fc2 (front cross 2): slide 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cn

fc1 (front cross 1): slide 1 stitch to cn and hold in front, k1, then k1 from cn

Calla Lily Cowl

Calla Lily Cowl
My three-year-old's opinion of the piece?  "It looks like a funny one!"

Ah, where to begin with this one!  Well, for starters, I've been lusting after this yarn for months now; it's hard to tell from this picture, but it has a slight metallic edge to it that makes it super fancy/sparkly/delicious.  When I finally bought it, however, I struggled a little with how to use it.  Since it's a cotton base, it's a bit dense and heavy, and I wanted to come up with a pattern that would show its prettiness without bogging down.  I also hate finishing, so I wanted to make it a one-piece knit.  Originally, I had planned to make a cabled necklace-type thing out of it, but after I began, I realized that my initial design wouldn't show the yarn off the way I wanted it to.  Which is when I decided to open it up.  Ultimately, the design reminds me of a calla lily more than anything (obviously, from the name!), and it's a nice, not-too-warm way to keep wearing your knit goods into the spring and summer.  This pattern also has very pretty dimensionality, as you can see from the photo at the bottom of the pattern.

Oh, and before I forget - I recommend reading this pattern all the way through before you begin, since there are multiple pattern changes, as well as the initial increases and the finishing decreases.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sunseeker (47% Cotton, 48% Acrylic, 5% Metallic Yarn; 237 yards [217 meters]/100 grams); #10 Blue Turquoise - just one skein needed.

Needles: One set of double pointed needles in size 4, and a straight or circular needle in size 4 if you so desire (for when you're done knitting in the round)


I don't know why I take pictures of the balls. 
I guess I like to.

Notions: Tapestry needle, 7/16" button, large darning needle, depending on button hole side

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started!  To begin, cast on 3 stitches and divide evenly between 3 double pointed-needles, join in round.  By convention, we're going to call the needle with the first stitch dpn 1, the needle with the second stitch dpn 2, and the needle with the third stitch dpn 3.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: * kfb; rep from * (6 stitches)

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: * kfb, k1 * (9 stitches)

Twisted Check Hat

Twisted Check Hat

First things first: I know I show this hat on my little lady friend here, but I actually knit it for my husband.  Who looks pretty good in it.  But when I tried to get him to pose for the pictures, he refused to do anything but make weird faces and quips about being a Top Model.  So... little lady friend it is.  Besides that, it's a little difficult to tell from the pictures, but the way this yarn is variegated made cool zig-zags in the pattern.  Or in other words, it's a good, basic unisex hat.  I also suspect I could make two hats out of my one ball of yarn, but I have too many other projects to complete before I test that hypothesis ("Buddy, what's a hypothesis?" "It's an idea you can test!" - Dinosaur Train).  Where was I again?  Oh yeah, the hat.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #500 Duo Tone - just one skein needed.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles, also in size 8

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1.5"

The body of this hat is worked in Twisted Check Pattern, which you can find on page 117 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Rows 1 & 2: Knit

Gathered Mesh Cowl

Gathered Mesh Cowl

So here's the thing.  When I started knitting this piece, I intended to do it differently.  First, I was going to knit it in Star Rib Mesh, from page 196 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, which includes a direction to "slip 2 knitwise" (and even includes a special instruction on why you really, really need to slip 2 TOGETHER knitwise to accomplish the look).  Of course, I didn't do this.  I slipped one stitch knitwise, then slipped the second stitch knitwise, which creates an entirely different effect.  Then, of course, I liked it.  And decided to gather it.  Which resulted in the following.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sateen (100% Acrylic; 300.7 yards [275 meters]/100 grams); #24 Orange Poppy - another one skein masterpiece.

Once again, the kid wanted to help. 
Of course, he still refused to smile.

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 4

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle, one 5/8" button

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 180 stitches, place marker, join in round.  Knit two rows in seed stitch, or in other words:

First row of seed stitch: k1, p1 around

2nd row: p1, k1 around

Now it's time for the main pattern!

Row 1: * yo, (sl 1 knitwise, sl 1 knitwise - k1 - p2sso), yo, k1; rep from *

Berry Swirl Hat



Berry Swirl Hat

And here's my second hat, which you will probably notice is in the exact same yarn as the Ripple Lattice Hat!  True story: I had two balls of the yarn.  Also, it's kind of fun to see how the same yarn knits in different designs, especially when that yarn is variegated, which always brings in an element of the unknown.  As far as this particular hat is concerned, the swirl effect is obviously a product of the variegation, so my recommendation if you're looking for a similar effect is to find a yarn that, in a ball, looks like it contains roughly the same amount of variegation.  In other words, not too much of a second color (see ball below).  And yet again, please see the Glossary if any of these terms are unfamiliar.  Otherwise, let's begin!

Yarn: SMC Riana Color (50% New Wool, 45% Acrylic, 5% Viscose; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #5843 - don't know the color name, might be discontinued, but this hat, like the other, only uses one skein.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpn), also in size 9

Notions: Marker, tapestry needle



Yeah, it's the same picture as before!!!

Gauge: 19 stitches x 25 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in a round

* k1, p1 * 1 inch in ribbing

The majority of this hat is knit in Berry Stitch, which I found in one of my favorite knitting books, or in other words on page 221 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns

Ripple Lattice Hat

Ripple Lattice Hat

All right!  So it's officially time to post my first hat, which I've named the "Ripple Lattice Hat" since it's both ripple-y and lattice-y.  Genius, I know.  Specs, recipe, and more pics below!  Oh, and quick note - if I use any terms or symbols that aren't familiar to you, please go to the Glossary!

Yarn: SMC Riana Color (50% New Wool, 45% Acrylic, 5% Viscose; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #5843 - don't know the color name, might be discontinued, but I only used one skein!!!

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpn), also in size 9

Notions: Marker, tapestry needle, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn for cabling


My three-year-old REALLY wanted to hold
the ball for the picture!

Gauge: 19 stitches x 25 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in a round

k1, p1, k1, p3 for one inch in ribbing

Rows 1 - 2: * k3, p3; rep from *

R 3: * k3, pass next 3 purled stitches to cable needle & hold in back, k3, p3 from cable needle, p3 *

R 4 – 5: * k6, p6 *