Fantastic Welted Cowl

Fantastic Welted Cowl

Sometimes, all you need is a simple cowl with a lot of texture. And if that's what you're looking for, the Fantastic Welted Cowl fits the bill, with both a ripple effect and purled accents. Furthermore, though I've pictured the child size, you can also make it for an adult or a toddler. So cute!

Sizes: Toddler (Child; Adult)

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jeannee (55% Cotton, 45% Acrylic; 111 yards [101 meters]/50 grams); #08 - 1 skein (2 skeins ; 2 skeins)

A better picture of the pattern

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 8, 16" circular needle in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

So let's do this! First, using your size 7 needle, cast on 77 (88; 99) stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit a few edging rows, as follows:

Edging Row: * (k1, p1) twice, k3, (p1, k1) twice; rep from *

Knit edging row 4 (4; 6) times, and then switch to your size 8 needle. Next, we'll move on to our main pattern, which is Welting Fantastic from page 143 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. And it goes as follows:

Rows 1, 3, & 5: purl

Five Pillars Hat

Five Pillars Hat

I would tell you how many times I frogged this thing, except I can't count that high. Okay, so I'm exaggerating. But it is no exaggeration that I put extra work into the Five Pillars Hat to make it not just run of the mill, but extraordinary. And although the design is unisex, I highly recommend knitting it with a slightly larger gauge yarn if you're making it for a larger-headed person or a man (think 15 stitches = 4 inches instead of 16, and possibly a size US 10 needle to get your gauge). Oh, and, as of October 6, 2015, I've charted this pattern. You can find the chart below*. :)

* Updated as of 08/22/16

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Aran (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 150 yards [137.5 meters]/100 grams); #817 Aran - one skein

The back.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 7, one 16" circular needle in size US 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 9, and a cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle for cabling


Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches on size 9 needles

So let's make a hat, eh? First, then, using your size 7 needle, cast on 85 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a few ribbing rows, as follows:

Ribbing Row: * knit two stitches through their back loops (k2-tbl), (p1, k1) 6 times, p1, k2-tbl; rep from *

Around We Go Headband

Around We Go Headband

The story behind this piece is simple: recently, I saw one of the other moms at my kids' preschool in a knitted headband similar to this one and I thought, "hey, that's cool." And yes, the story is boring, but the finished product is still striking, with lots of graphic appeal. It's also very easy to size to various lengths, which I'll talk about more in a bit, and is a great stashbuster. Yay, busting stashes!

Sizes: Child (Adult)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #2439 Gelato - one skein

The pattern.
Plus some of the fine make up airbrushing that went into
my lovely fake head.

Needles: One set of needles in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! To begin, cast on 18 (22) stitches. Then we'll move right to the main pattern, which I've written separately for each size. First, then, the terminology:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)

Sailor's Rib Cowl

Sailor's Rib Cowl

I bought this yarn nearly a year ago, I believe, with the intention of making a nice scarf for my husband with it. But since he was never very enthusiastic about said scarf, it never got made. And then he renewed his determination to bike commute this winter and it dawned on both of us: he didn't need a scarf, he needed a cowl. A nice, snug, long cowl that he can pull up over his face when the temperatures dip into the teens and the winds are blowing. And, to be quite honest, I'm kind of amazed that the idea never occurred to me before. After all, while I doubt he'll start wearing this cowl as a new man fashion statement (not because it isn't pretty, but because I haven't seen many men in cowls), it tucks into a jacket with much less bulk than a scarf, and looks just as nice.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9458 Bainbridge Island Heather - 1 skein

A closer look at the pattern

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

So let's make this bad boy! First, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll move straight to the main pattern, which is Fisherman's Rib from page 4 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. Anyway, it goes as follows:

All in the Family Earflap Hat

All in the Family Earflap Hat
Child Size

Although I've made hats of many other silhouettes, a reader recently reminded me that I had yet to post an earflap. And this reminder instantly reminded me of yet another thing - namely, that the last time I made an earflap hat, I had far fewer knitting techniques in my toolbox, and ended up having to cobble together a hat, some flaps, and some weird cast-ons with a crocheted edging, to hide the mess. Now that I've progressed, however, I designed this All in the Family Earflap Hat with a basic but rather elegant design that uses a provisional cast on for a seamless, nicely finished look. Plus, it doesn't require any crocheted hoo-ha for the edging (although of course you're welcome to crochet as much hoo-ha as you like; no judgment here). Also, as a note, I should mention that, though I very much enjoyed this yarn, I found the gauge recommendations to be WAY off. Thusly (and especially with a basic stockinette hat such as this), I highly recommend that you check your gauge before accidentally knitting a hat that would fit the Jolly Green Giant better than your kid.

Sizes: Toddler (Child; Small Adult; Large Adult) (in measurements, and roughly, the toddler size should fit an 18" - 19" inch head, the child a 19.5" - 21" inch head, the small adult up to a 21" head, and the large adult up to a 23" head)

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca (50% Alpaca, 50% Wool; 215 yards [198 meters]/100 grams); #6288 Blueberry Mix - 1 skein

From the side.

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 8, and one 10 or 10 1/2 needle for the provisional cast on

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! Using your largest needle and a provisional cast on, cast on 70 (77; 77; 84) stitches. Then, transfer stitches to your size 8 circular needle, place marker, and join in round. Knit until piece measures about 5.5" (6"; 7.5"; 8"), and then we'll begin the decreases, as follows. Remember to switch to your dpns once you're down to about 60 stitches.

Decrease Row 1: * k5, k2tog; rep from *

Decrease Row 2: knit

Decrease Row 3: * k4, k2tog *

Rose Briar Bag

Rose Briar Bag

I'll admit it; my reasons for designing this Rose Briar Bag are totally self-serving. Namely, I think it will make a nice holiday gift, when the time comes. Of course, it has other nice details as well, such as the triangular base (it's knit bottom-up) and the lace stripes. As pictured, it's also finished with a three needle bind off to attach the handles, although you're welcome to seam them instead.

Yarn: Lily Sugar 'n Cream (100% Cotton; 120 yards [109 meters]/70.9 grams); #01322 Lilac - 3 skeins

A closer look

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 7, size 10 or larger needles for provisional cast on, and one 24" circular needle in size US 7 (recommended but not required)

Notions: Tapestry needle, four stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

First and foremost, let's knit some handles! So, using your largest needles and a provisional cast on, cast on 11 stitches (if you plan to seam this bag rather than use the three needle bind off to attach the handles, you don't need to use a provisional cast on). Then switch to whichever set of size 7 needles you want to work back and forth on and knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 & 3 (wrong side): p11

Set-up Row 2: k11

Gradated Rib Leg Warmers

Gradated Rib Leg Warmers

I had the idea for these leg warmers ages ago, and then got distracted by too many other projects to make them happen. Since I had already bought the yarn, however, I finally got to them this last week. And what sets these guys apart is that they actually use two different weights of yarn, as well as a number of different needle sizes, in order to create a small-to-large-to-small-again gradated look. Of course, you could just as easily knit them with a single weight of yarn, with or without the needle size changes (well, you'd definitely want to change needle sizes for the ribbing, but skip the changes for everything else). This pattern is also easy to size, as long as you add or subtract a multiple of four. As written, the pattern is sized to be about 12" around at the top and bottom, and each four stitches added or subtracted will change the size by about 3/4".

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #802 Green Apple - one skein (size A), Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Aran (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 150 yards [137.5 meters]/100 grams); #802 Green Apple - one skein (size B)

A close up. This pattern uses eyelets and twisted stitches
for a very deep ribbing.

Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size 5, one set of dpns in size 7, one set of dpns in size 8, and one set of dpns in size 10


Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles for size A yarn, 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles for size B yarn

So let's get started! First, using your size 5 needles and your size A yarn, cast on 60 stitches (or 56, or 64, or whatever multiple of four you need to get the size you want) and distribute evenly between 3 dpns (just make sure you have a multiple of four stitches on each needle). Join in round. Then, we'll work the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Notched Front Cowl

Notched Front Cowl

At this point, I imagine that everyone who looks at my patterns regularly has already figured out that I like to come up with new shapes for cowls. And I do, mostly because scarves have become impractical now that my children can use them to try to strangle me (unintentionally, of course). So the Notched Front Cowl is yet another entry into my new-shapes-for-cowls canon, and one that can be styled a couple of different ways (see below for pics). It's also a good design for those who have just begun to knit in the round, or who want more practice with basic increases and decreases.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sierra (80% Pima Cotton, 20% Merino Wool; 191 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #01 (White) - one skein


The back.
I would have done a close up, but I'm pretty sure you've seen
seed stitch before.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 101 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll go straight into a seed stitch for the first part of the pattern. Or in knitting terms, we'll proceed like so:

Row 1: k1, * p1, k1; rep from *

Row 2: p1, * k1, p1 *

Knit rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 3". It doesn't matter which row you end on. And now, we'll knit one transition row to place our extra markers, like so:

Stepping Stones Beanie

Stepping Stones Beanie

 

Buying this yarn was a no-brainer; I dig the Berroco Vintage line, and I will still swear that it's a lovely blend of gray and purple (even if my husband, and perhaps everyone else in the world, sees it as a lovely blend of gray and gray). However, it took me a long time to devise a pattern that seemed to suit it. Fortunately, I think the Stepping Stones Beanie takes advantage of both the yarn's weight and its variegation, and would also make a suitable hat for either gender. I would also love to see someone knit the main pattern in a larger needle - perhaps a 10 - to create an even slouchier design that really showed off the yarn overs (and if you do, I want pictures!).

 

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Colors (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 217 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5215 Smokestack - one skein

 

A closer view of the pattern.

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 6, one 16" circular needle in size US 8, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

 

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's make a hat! Using your size 6 circular needle, cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * p1, k2, p2, k2, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 8 times, and then switch to your size 8 circular needle (or a 10, if you want to make a slouchier hat. Let me reiterate: I want pictures!). Now, we'll move on to the main pattern, for which we'll need the following notation:

Chevron Market Bag

Chevron Market Bag

When I first considered the idea of making a bag like this one, I picked a lovely yarn that I knew would be perfect and started to design the thing in my head. Unfortunately, however, while I PICKED a yarn, I didn't actually BUY it, and it was gone by the next time I visited the shop. So the Chevron Market Bag is the redesigned version of my imaginary-yarn bag, not that you would know it in a glance. This bad boy turned out pretty striking on its own, after all, even if it might be a bit rainbow-y for some people's tastes (luckily, you can pick your own yarn!). Furthermore, while I knit this bag with a provisional cast-on and a three-needle bind off to attach the handles, I am providing two sets of instructions, one for a bag exactly like the one I made, and one for a bag that skips the provisional cast-on and seams the handles in place rather than attaching them with the three-needle bind off. So, it's your choice how you want to make it, and you'll find the second set of instructions following the first!

Yarn: Lily Sugar 'n Cream (100% Cotton; 95 yards [86 meters]/56.7 grams); #02739 Over the Rainbow - 4 skeins

A close-up of the chevron pattern

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 10 or 10.5, one 24" circular needle in size 7, one 16" circular needle in size 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

Let's begin with the handles! Using your largest gauge needles and the provisional cast-on technique (we'll be working back-and-forth for these guys, and using a three-needle bind off to attach them to the top of the bag so we want live stitches on either end of each handle), cast on 9 stitches. Transfer stitches to any of your size 7 needles and knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 & 3: knit

Set-up Rows 2 & 4: purl

Twilled Stripe Hat

Twilled Stripe Hat

There's no doubt about it: I fell in love with this Twilled Stripe stitch pattern the first time I used it, in the Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers. But when I got the idea for this hat, which uses a combination of Twilled Stripes and dropped stitches, I thought that the combo might add a new dimension to the stripes. And, indeed, this slouchy hat gives the stitch pattern a whole different look. Not that it wouldn't still match the arm warmers...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #8906 Blue Topaz - one skein

A closer view

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 7 (optional but recommended: one 20" or 24" circular needle in size 7)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

So let's get this thing going! Before we start, I should point out that the magic doesn't really happen with this hat until you start dropping stitches, so don't worry if it just looks like an oversized rib at first. And now that the disclaimer has been issued, let's begin! Using your size 5 circular needle, cast on 108 stitches, place in marker, and join in round. Then, we'll knit the following ribbing row.

Ribbing row: * p1, k2; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 6 times and switch to your size 7 16" circular needle. Now it's time to move on to the main pattern, which is a combination of Twilled Stripe from page 147 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and some stitches we'll drop later. There's only one notation note, which goes a little something like this:

Left Twist (lt): skip 1 stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop, then slip the skipped stitch purlwise onto right-hand needle, then slide the knit stitch off of the needle as well

And now that the ribbing is complete and we have our notation down, let's knit one set-up row and then begin the pattern! So first, we'll knit this bad boy:

Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves

Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves

You know what? I'm not even gonna intro these fingerless gloves. And you know why? Because Rihanna can definitely do it better -- not only was her song "Diamonds" the inspiration for the name of the Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves, but her video has it all; finger tattoos, wild horses, and burning roses. It's almost like my eleven-year-old self directed this video, except I would have included more crying in the rain. Ah, to be young again...

Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses

A bit closer look at the pattern.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9496 Buttercup – one skein (both sizes)

Needles: one set of double-pointed needles in size US 7, one set of double-pointed needles in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

And now that we've gotten that out of our system, let's make some gloves! So, using your size 5 needles, cast on 38 stitches (44 stitches) and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 13 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 13 on your third (place 13 stitches on your first needle, 18 on your second, and 13 on your third). Join in round. Then, knit the following set-up row 4 times (as you can see, it's different for the two sizes, but I've also used parentheses in the instructions for the smaller size. That's to indicate that a direction is repeated, and will occur again in the notation. Just remember that the alternate larger instructions will always occur after the smaller instructions in each row, and not in the middle of them):

Set-up Row:  k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1 (larger size: (p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times)

Sunny Stripes Hat

Sunny Stripes Hat
... plus a very wiggly child...

Sometimes, I feel as if I'm trapped in an endless hat knitting cycle with my children; as soon as I finish a hat for one of them, the other one immediately gets jealous and demands yet another hat. Which is how the Sunny Stripes Hat came to be, in all of its stripe-y glory. And it's not just the stripes that make it fun; it's also the slip stitch accentuated finish, which make it look almost like the celestial body it's named for. Plus, it comes in all sizes, so you can knit one for every member of your family (pets excluded)!

Sizes: Small (Medium; Large) (Small is 7.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 20" circumference head - think pre-schooler to young elementary, unless the kid's got a huge noggin like my children; Medium is 8.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 22" circumference head - think older kid to teen to smaller-headed adult (this would be my size); and Large is 9.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 24" circumference head - perfect for my husband)

The finishing. Slipped stitches
give it an extra sunny feel.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #8906 Blue Topaz - one skein (color A), Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #2439 Gelato - one skein (color B)

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Before we begin, a quick note about sizing; as you may have noticed, I recommend medium for anyone between, like, 5 and adult. This is simply because most head growth occurs in the first couple of years, and, for instance, my five-year-old's head is only 1" smaller than mine in circumference and 1/2" smaller than mine crown-to-base-of-ear. Which means, yes, we would both wear the medium. Of course, not everyone's children have such monstrous heads, and the small size could fit a much older child. Finally, if you're knitting this hat as a gift and have no idea about sizing, I recommend large for most men, medium for most women and teens, and small for most everyone between 2 and 8 or so. Go up a size if they seem large-headed, or add 1/2" to 1" to the length. And now that we're all thoroughly confused, let's get started!

Striped Anemone Cowl

Striped Anemone Cowl

Since I've been on maternity leave (the baby is now over two months old! and so cute!), I've been trying to use up all of my leftover yarn instead of going out and buying more. So, although my soul is suffering serious separation anxiety after going so long without a trip to the yarn store, my odds-and-ends pile is getting slimmer and slimmer. And this particular cowl is knit with the leftovers from the Long-Slip Striped Table Runner. Luckily, I'm still not tired of knitting with this yarn, although at this point I have very little left.

Detail. It really does look like little sea anemones, no?

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jeannee (51% Cotton, 49% Acrylic; 111 yards [102 meters]/50 grams); #0023 (Lavender) - one skein (color A), #0006 (Sage) - one skein (color B), #0022 (Gray) - one skein (color C), & #0033 (Teal) - one skein (color D)

Needles: 16" or 20" circular needle in size 8

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Using your color A yarn, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Purl one row around. And now, it's time to begin our main pattern, which is a four-color, in-the-round variation on Anemone Stitch from page 131 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. As you'll notice when you're knitting it, your back seam will be very loose. The best way to combat this is by clipping the tail of each color yarn after you work it and knotting the tails instead of trying to carry them up the piece. Oh, and the pattern won't start looking good until you knit a few rows, so don't get scared if it looks weird at first! Anyway, let's proceed like so:

Row 1: using color B, * k1, (yo) twice; rep until *

Wickerwork Hat

Wickerwork Hat

I stumbled across this yarn in my stash the other day and I realized that it would make the perfect gift for a friend who's about to move away. So I got right down to work and created this fun Wickerwork Hat, complete with pompom (there is a photo of it without the pompom below, in case you want to see it without). It would also make a great stash-busting holiday gift, since I think most of us have at least a skein or two of worsted-weight wool hanging around!

* Note: As of November 2, 2015, I have added a chart to this pattern using the ever-wonderful chart generator here. You can find it below. Please note, however, that I had to do some funky stuff with the charting to make it work (it should all be explained in the chart graphic, but let me know if there's a problem. Also, let me know if there's a better way to chart any of my issues, and I'll fix it! :) )

Sans pompom. In a different color, this would
make a nice man-hat as well.

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure New Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #202 (Cream) - one skein

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 5, 16" circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

So let's get started! First, using your size 5 needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then, knit 1.5" in the following ribbing:

Ribbing Row: k1, * p2, k2; rep from *; end p2, k1

And once that's done, we'll switch to our size 8 needles and our main pattern, which is Wickerwork Pattern from page 146 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. For this pattern, we'll need the following notation (you can find videos for the techniques below them):

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

Long-Slip Striped Table Runner

Long-Slip Striped Table Runner

I'm not exactly sure why I decided to knit a table runner, but I think it was some combination of wanting to create a non-wearable knit for summer and NOT wanting to knit four whole placemats (if the baby won't even let me knit more than one coaster, you know a gaggle of placemats will never happen). Whatever my inspiration was, however, I totally dig the end result - colorful, cheerful, and functional, this table runner is a great choice if you want to keep knitting through the summer but don't want to make winter-y items. It would also make a lovely gift, if Christmas knitting is already on your mind...

A close-up of the pattern. So stripey!

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jeannee (51% Cotton, 49% Acrylic; 111 yards [102 meters]/50 grams); #0023 (Lavender) - two skeins (color A), #0006 (Sage) - one skein (color B), #0022 (Gray) - one skein (color C), & #0033 (Teal) - one skein (color D)

Needles: Straight needles in size 8, at least a 24" circular needle in size 6 (there's no circular knitting here, but you will need something long to pick up stitches along the edge of the runner)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Using your color A yarn and your size 6 needles, cast on 53 stitches loosely. Then, work the following rows:

Set-up Rows 1 - 9: using color A, k1, * p1, k1; rep from *

Cellular Stitch Kids' Poncho

Cellular Stitch Kids' Poncho

As I'm sure I've mentioned, I have a hard time letting a house guest leave without a knit good or two. And since a friend stayed for weeks to help with our family's latest addition (who I'm sure I'll knit something for soon as well), I designed this poncho for her daughter in return. Since I was working with a variegated yarn, I tried to keep the pattern simple but appealing, and worked a basic openwork for the majority of the design with a couple of lace stripes for the shoulders. As I found out as soon as my friend's daughter put it on, however, it looks just as good with the stripes going up the front and the back of the poncho as it does with them on the shoulders!

The cellular stitch, closer up.

Sizes: Toddler (2 - 3 years); Child (4 - 7 years) (the instructions for the larger size will follow the instructions for the smaller size in parentheses)

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jelli Beenz (75% Acrylic, 25% Wool; 214 yards [196 meters]/100 grams); #2385 Flamingo - two skeins (if you have the 50 gram skeins instead, 3 will do you)

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one 24" circular needle in size 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, four stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

So let's begin! Using your 16" circular needle, cast on 72 stitches loosely (80 for the larger size), place marker, and join in round. Knit 1" in a k1, p1 ribbing, and then we'll knit the following addition row:

Addition Row: * k2, m1, k1 * (larger size: * k3, m1, k2; rep from *) (96 stitches, both sizes)

And once that's done, we'll knit the following transition row, in order to place our extra stitch markers. It is the same for both sizes.

Slip-Stitch Mesh Hat

Slip-Stitch Mesh Hat

After I finished the Slip-Stitch Mesh Fingerless Gloves, I figured I had just enough yarn left in my skein for a hat. And it seemed like a good idea to make a hat that matched the gloves, since they're knit from the same stuff and all. So, if you're interested in knitting the smaller size of the gloves and the hat as written (I give a variation to make it slightly larger below, and I'm not sure you have enough yarn to accomplish it if you're making the gloves too), you can probably do it with just one ball. Otherwise, of course, they're both good stash projects that don't use too much yardage!

The back. Simple and clean.

Yarn: Berroco Vintage (52% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 8% Nylon; 218 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5120 Gingham - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 9, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 9

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Using your size 7 needle, cast on 90 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit one inch in a p1, k1 ribbing and then switch to your size 9 needle. And then, we'll be moving on to the main pattern, which uses a variation on Slip-Stitch Mesh from page 156 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Slip-Stitch Mesh Fingerless Gloves

Slip-Stitch Mesh Fingerless Gloves

The idea behind this pair of fingerless gloves was simple; not everyone likes to knit on double pointed needles, but even the dpn-adverse should be able to enjoy a nice fingerless glove. And as far as these bad boys are constructed, we'll begin by working the thumb, then we'll make the body of the glove, and then we'll put them all together!

Thumbs up, if you will...

Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses

Yarn: Berroco Vintage (52% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 8% Nylon; 218 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5120 Gingham - one skein

Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 8 (optional: another set of straight needles in size US 7)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

So, as I mentioned, we'll begin with the thumb. And, if desired, here's your chance to use a smaller gauge needle, if you want the thumb to fit a little more tightly. Either way, the thumb will look better if you knit on the tighter side of things through the short rows. Anyway, cast on 14 stitches (16 for the larger size) loosely, and then purl one row across. And then we'll work the following (notice that you will be working short rows from row 4 - 12. There's a nice tutorial on the technique here, if you're rusty):

Chevrons & Cables Hat

Chevrons & Cables Hat

Before I get any further, I should warn you - this is not the ideal yarn for this hat, if only because I needed about 102 yards of it rather than the 100 yards in a single skein (luckily, I had a bit left over from the Porcelain Moon Cowl). Of course, if you ignore the yardage, this cotton/wool worsted weight blend makes a pretty excellent lighter-weight hat, and the cables stand out crisply in the smooth texture. The Chevrons & Cables Hat is also kind of a riff on the Peaks & Cables Hat, since both use a lace pattern and a cable pattern to nice effect.

The finishing.
It's nice, in my opinion at least...

Yarn: Classic Elite Yarns Solstice (70% Organic Cotton, 30% Wool; 100 yards [91 meters]/50 grams); #2346 Faded Teal – two skeins

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 6, one 16" circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 8, and one cable needle (cn)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches 

Using your size 6 needle, cast on 92 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit one inch in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, and then switch to your size 8 needle. And now that that's done, we'll start on the main pattern, which is a combination of Lace Chevron from page 202 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns and Elliptical Cable from page 180 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Row 1 and all odd rows: * p2, k2 stitches through their back loops (k2-tbl), k4, k2-tbl, p2, k11; rep from *