Swiss Fan Cowl

Swiss Fan Cowl

Okay, here's another basic cowl, with a bit of added interest due to the scalloped cast-on edge (yes, it looks better upside down). And yeah, that's all I've got in the way of introduction...

Yarn: Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9442 Baby Rose - one skein

A close-up of the pattern.

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or yarn scrap to mark end of round 

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

Loosely cast on 126 stitches, place marker, and join in round. The design we'll be knitting is a variation of the Swiss Fan pattern, from page 324 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Row 1: * p1, k7, p1; rep from *

Rows 2 & 6: * p1, ssk, (yo, k1) 3 times, yo, k2tog, p1 *

Rows 3 & 7: * p1, k9, p1 *

Rows 4 & 8: * p1, ssk, k5, k2tog, p1 *

Rows 5 & 9: * p1, k7, p1 *

Rows 10 & 11: purl

Knit Rows 1 - 11 four times through, and then knit Rows 1 - 8 once more. Bind off loosely. Finally, tuck in ends, 'cause you're done.

Dewdrop Cowl

Dewdrop Cowl

If you've looked at a few of my patterns, you've probably already figured out that I love a cowl (so efficient! good for bicycling! less yarn! etc). So here's a basic but interesting design, worked with worsted weight yarn and a pattern that never gets more complicated than a sl1-k2tog-psso. Overall, I think it's a decent design for a variegated yarn, and easy to work.

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Colors (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 217 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5222 Oasis - one skein

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 7

The pattern

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or yarn scrap to mark end of round 

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

So let's get started! Cast on 138 stitches, place marker, and join in round. And now we'll proceed in Dewdrop Pattern, from page 149 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, which I've adapted for the round:

Rows 1 - 3: * k3, p3; rep from * 

Row 4: * yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k3 *

Rows 5 - 7: * p3, k3 *

Row 8: * k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo *

Arrow Hat

Arrow Hat

Once again, I bought this yarn because it was on sale, and once again, I'm thrilled with my decision! Not only does this yarn knit up nicely, and with a good drape-y texture, after all, but it also doesn't chafe the fingers despite being all animal fibers. Furthermore, there's enough on the skein for a good project, so much so that I totally wasn't even close to running out by the end of this hat. Huzzah!

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Tonal (50% Alpaca, 50% Wool; 215 yards [198 meters]/100 grams); #6321 (purple) - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8 (go to a size 7 if you want a tighter band), one 16" circular needle in size 10, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size 10

The pattern

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or yarn scrap to mark end of round 

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

So let's get started! Using the size 8 (or 7) circular needle, cast on 108 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Next, knit in a k1, p1 ribbing for 1 inch, then switch to your size 10 circular needle and we'll move on to the main pattern, which is an adaptation of Arrow Pattern from page 273 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns (I added a stitch, and rewrote it for the round). Anyway, it goes as follows:

Row 1 (and all other odd rows): knit

Row 2: * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2 *

Bear Track Cowl

Bear Track Cowl

Okay, I bought a bunch of skeins of this yarn a loooong time ago, back when I could afford it (also, the local yarn shop was changing hands so it was on sale). And while I've knit it up a couple of different ways, I think that the bear track pattern on this one suits the yarn's variegation and thick-to-thin worsted weight well, although you should note that if you knit it with an unchanging worsted it won't have quite the same funkiness (post pictures if you do, also - I'm curious). Anyway, let's get to it!

Yarn: Misti Alpaca Baby Me Boo (50% Baby Alpaca, 30% Merino, 20% Bamboo; 174 yards [160 meters]/100 grams); #BBH07 Rosario - 1 skein (however, I've developed an uncanny knack for finishing up a skein with little to spare, so if you're a looser knitter, you may want to have two skeins on hand. On the flip side, since this pattern ends with I-cords, you could always use something like ribbon to tie up the cowl if you run out)


Needles: one set of straight needles in size 7, two double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 7

Close-up of the pattern.
It doesn't pop too much with the
yarn's variegation, but it does add texture.

Notions: tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Okay, to knit this piece we're going to start with the center bit (we'll pick up stitches along the edges to do the around-the-neck parts). So, using size 7 needles, cast on 81 stitches. The center piece will be knit in the Bear Track pattern, from page 225 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Row 1 (right side): k1, * yo, (k1, p1) 7 times, k1, yo, k1; rep from *

Row 2: k1, * p2, (k1, p1) 7 times, p1, k1 *

Row 3: k2, * yo, (k1, p1) 7 times, k1, yo, k3 *, end last repeat k2

Row 4: k2, * p2, (k1, p1) 7 times, p1, k3 *, end last repeat k2

Handkerchief Cowl

Handkerchief Cowl

Okay, let's be real here.  For some ridiculous reason, I only bought one skein of this yarn, and I bought it on vacation, so I couldn't exactly pop to the store for another.  And that has seriously limited the yarn's utility, although a combination of my small neck and industriousness (I totally had to cut off the cast-on tail and use it to cast off; that's how low on yarn I was) has produced a decent result.  That being said, let's take a moment to talk about sizing!

As mentioned, I have a small neck.  I also have a healthy stash of scraps, so finding something else to make the I-cord to finish this beast was easy (I used the leftovers from the Arrowhead Lace Cowl).  However, I strongly, STRONGLY suggest having two skeins of yarn on hand to work this piece (or at least 100 yards), especially if your neck is any bigger than mine (12" around, by my husband's measure).  Furthermore, I suggest working the lace portion of this pattern to your neck's circumference, if not larger, for fit and comfort (the overall circumference of the piece is slightly larger, based on the positioning of the eyelets for the I-cord lacing, but not much).  Then you might even have enough yarn to work a matching I-cord!

Yarn: Cascade Luna (100% Peruvian Cotton; 82 yards [75 meters]/50 grams); #727 Coral - 1 - 2 skeins (2 highly recommended), plus some stash scrap yarn in a complimentary color, should you decide to knit the I-cord from a different material

A close-up of the closure

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 7, one cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle (dpn) for cabling, one set of dpns in size 7 for working the I-cord

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Let's get this party started!  First, cast on 12 stitches.  Now, we're immediately going to begin working a double cable (from page 243 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns), which goes as follows:

Rows 1, 3, 5, & 7 (wrong side): k2, p8, k2

Row 2: p2, slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn, slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn, p2

Rows 4, 6, & 8: p2, k8, p2

Arrowhead Lace Cowl

Arrowhead Lace Cowl

The idea for this cowl has been brewing for some time now, and I finally got a yarn that seemed perfect for it (also, the fact that it's basically a worsted-weight cotton makes it knit up quickly, and have a nice, cozy weight).  Basically, it's buttoned in the back, with a ribbed section to go around the neck, and then it explodes into a wide lace bit for the front.  And it's really fun to knit, if I do say so myself.

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Sweet Caroline (100% Cotton; 76 yards [69 meters]/50 grams); #4021 White/Yellow - two skeins

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 1/2" or 7/16" inch buttons, plus needle and thread if your yarn won't fit through the button holes

The pattern, yo.

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started!  Cast on 21 stitches, and work the first couple of rows to include buttonholes as follows:

Row 1 (right side): * k1, p1; repeat from *

Row 2: * p1, k1 *

Row 3 (buttonhole row): k1, k2tog, yo, (p1, k1) x 3, k2tog, yo, (p1, k1) x 3, p1, yo, ssk, k1

Continue to work fabric in a k1, p1 ribbing until piece measures about 4 inches in length, and you're just about to begin a right-side row.  Now it's time to work some short rows for shaping.

Peaks & Cables Hat

Peaks & Cables Hat

Okay, so I lost track sometime during last week's vacation, but I ripped this hat out either three or four times before I finally left it sitting around as nothing more than a band of ribbing (luckily, I didn't have to finish it three or four times before I realized each of those times was ugly).  Then I made the cowl for my mom and forgot about the hat entirely.  But since I'm trying to finish the projects I start (except for that quilt from 7 years ago, of course), I finally got some inspiration and hammered through.  And I have to say, my husband thinks it's my best one yet (on a completely unrelated note, I just remembered that my post-apocalyptic New Orleans dream last night featured a whole segment where the tops of my hats, where I pull the stitches together y'know, were starting to tug undone and it was IMPERATIVE that I fix them all right then despite the chaos.  not that I have knitting anxiety dreams or anything...).

Update (4/24/14): For anyone out there who prefers to knit with charts, Raveler bebamima was kind enough to whip some up and then pass them along. You can find charts for both the main pattern and the decreases at the bottom of this post, or shoot me an email if you'd prefer jpgs (ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com). Thanks bebamima!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9863 Spring Meadow - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8 and a set of double-pointed needles in size 8

The pattern.  A cable, and then a peak.

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using size 8 needles, cast on 112 stitches, place marker, and join in round.  Knit 1" in k1, p1 ribbing.  Now it's time to begin your main pattern, for which you'll need the following notation:

bc (back cross): slip two stitches to cn and hold in back; knit two stitches, knit two stitches from cn

So let's get to it!

Row 1: * k4, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo; rep from *

Row 2 and all even rows, including final row 8: knit

Row 3: * bc, k1, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k1 *

Italian Wheat Hat

Italian Wheat Hat

Um, so it's a hat?  Yes, definitely a hat.  I got the idea for this after knitting the Wheat Ear Cuff, since I thought the cabling could be retooled into a cool hat.  And that's pretty much all I've got for this one...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Quatro (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5019 Green Tea - I used what was left after I made the Zig Zag Legwarmers, which was almost exactly 3/4 of a skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one 16" circular needle in size 10, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 10, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

The finishing.

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or scrap of yarn

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Cast on 108 stitches, place marker, and join in round.  Knit one inch in a k1, p1 ribbing.  Now it's time to switch to your size 10 circular needle, and your main pattern, which is a mash-up of Italian Chain Ribbing (from page 47 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns) and the Wheat Ear Cable (from page 244 of the same).  You'll need the following notation to get 'er done:

fc (front cross): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in front; knit 3, knit 3 from cn

fc-2: slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; knit 2, knit 2 from cn

Wheat Ear Cuff

Wheat Ear Cuff
Even the baby had to get in on this action...

As an avid knitter, I have what feels like thousands of small piles of yarn laying around the house; skeins with too little left to make anything "real", but just enough that my grandmother would yell at me if I threw them away (you should have seen her refrigerator!).  Hence the Wheat Ear Cuff, which not only makes an attractive bracelet, but would also make a sweet headband if knit to about 21" in size for an adult (unsurprisingly, I didn't have enough yarn for that!).

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - less than 1/3 skein

Needles: Straight needles in size #7 (to be fair, I knit this on a couple of double-pointed needles, but you know what I mean - it goes back and forth, not around!), cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

The buttons I found in the bottom of my knitting bag

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 7/16" buttons (or whatever you have laying around, as long as they will fit through the holes and secure the piece)

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette - however, for this piece, it doesn't matter much

First, let's talk about sizing.  This piece will look best with a tight fit, and since everyone's wrists are different, you will pretty much just want to knit it to the exact dimension of your own (or of the person you're giving it to).  However, my finished piece measures just over 7", if you really want to know.

Anyway, let's get started.  To begin, cast on 22 stitches.  The main pattern we're using is a very slight variation on the Wheat Ear Cable from page 244 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, but first we're going to work the buttonholes.  Or in other words:

Zig Zag Legwarmers

Zig Zag Legwarmers

So, in case you can't tell from the socks I'm wearing in this picture, I love me some bright colors.  That's probably why I fell in love with this yarn as soon as I saw it.  And besides that - well, I wanted a zig zag pattern and I thought it would be cool to change the texture of the stripes (hence the seed stitch).  The use of the twisted stitches also adds another interesting dimension to the legwarmers, especially when scrunched up.  And finally, each iteration of this pattern (the two zig zag stripes) is 12 stitches in total, which adds 2 inches to the circumference, so these legwarmers are easy to size up and down.  As they're knitted, they have a 12 inch circumference and are about 11 inches top to bottom - add 12 more stitches and they'll be 14 inches around, subtract 12 and they'll be 10 and good for a child.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Quatro (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5019 Green Tea - two skeins (I knit almost exactly 1.5 legwarmers with one skein, so you should still have plenty of yarn if you size them up)

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 8, one set double-pointed needles in size 7 

A close-up of the pattern.  So cheery!

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

Using the size 7 dpns, cast on 72 (60, 84) stitches, divide between three dpns in groups of 12 stitches, and join in round

Knit in p1, k1 ribbing for 1 inch (please note that's purl one, knit one, NOT k1, p1), and then you're going to switch patterns AND needles - it's time to head to the #8's.  You'll need the following notation to proceed:

Slouchy Baby-Cabled Stocking Hat

Slouchy Baby-Cabled Beanie.  To the stars.

All right!  So I had this yarn left over after finishing the Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat, and I wanted to make something that screamed '80s ski bunny, while also being versatile.  And hence this hat was born.  Basically, it's a hat with a little more give than your average beanie, which makes it perfect for multiple styles or big hair, and the pom pom is an optional accent.  I love the way this yarn's variegation knitted up in this pattern, too!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #505 Caribbean blue - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 8

Hey look!  You can fold the edge up too, if you want!

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 104 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k2, p2 ribbing for 4 inches, and then you're going to switch patterns.  You'll need the following notation to proceed:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)

Now let's get to it!

Heart Headband

Heart Headband

As you may have guessed, I mostly knit this headband as a good way to get rid of some more of that skein of yarn I used for the Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers.  I also, admittedly, love hearts.  Finally, the adult version of this headband is intended for a head of about 22 inches in circumference; it would be easy to knit this pattern for a child by omitting 12 stitches, which would shave about 2 inches from the final circumference (and you'd cast on 84 stitches instead of 96).  And that's all I've got...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - maybe 1/3 skein?

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size #8

How it looks without the whole head-stretching-out aspect.

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (once again, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch. The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and yet again I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's in a circular needle either.  However, it's a pretty standard worsted weight, so any worsted weight yarn should work)

Cast on 96 (84) stitches, place marker, join in round.  Knit two rows in seed stitch, or in other words,

Row 1: * k1, p1; rep from *

Row 2: * p1, k1 *

Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Okay, I bought this yarn a couple of years ago (I think my plan, at the time, was to knit a sock monkey out of it.  But then I knit two OTHER sock monkeys, got bored, and put my yarn in the closet).  Anyway, I've been looking for a good use for it ever since, because it is admittedly quite girly but a big enough gauge that it's never going to look dainty.  And while I considered doing fingerless gloves (with a thumb hole, you know), ultimately I decided that this pattern would look best without the disruption.  And I have to say - I love the pattern, and the way that the variegation knitted up in stripes.  With one less pattern repeat, this would also be an excellent design for little girls.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - just one skein, baby!

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 8

A close-up!  Dude, I love this pattern.

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (well, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch.  The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's and I can't spend the $$$ to buy a set.  Either way it worked)

Before we get started, let's take a moment to talk about sizing.  My forearms are about 8 inches in circumference and each iteration of this pattern (7 stitches per repeat) adds about an inch to the total circumference.  Therefore, if your forearms are one inch bigger, you can always add another set of 7 stitches (or if they're two inches bigger, two more sets, etc. - just remember that, if you choose to use this yarn or a similar one, the variegation won't knit up the exact same way).  Basically, this pattern is a deep rib, and you have lots of room to play.  So let's get to it!

Cast on 42 stitches (49, 56, etc.) and divide between 3 dpns in groups of 7 as evenly as possible.  Join in round.  If you cast on an even number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a k1, p1 ribbing.  Or, if you cast on an odd number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 ribbing.

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Okie dokie!  First of all.  The reason I started knitting this hat was to test my hypothesis that I could knit two of the beasts out of the same ball of yarn (since this is the same stuff I made the Twisted Check Hat out of).  And guess what?  It couldn't be done!  However, instead of going the boring route and buying yet another ball of the same color, I decided to switch it up and change colors, partially so that I wouldn't have to knit a THIRD hat out of the gray (I've got big plans for the blue, though, let me tell you).  Obviously, you wouldn't have to change colors to make this hat, if you didn't want to, or you could even stripe it every six rows, since if you look closely at the color change (there's a better picture below), the way the fabric tugs into the cables actually looks pretty good.  Or you could trim it with a crochet stitch on the bottom, if you wanted to tie the blue back in, or even add a tassel or a pom-pom of the gray.  So many options!  Any way you do it, I think this is a gorgeous texture for a hat.  So let's get this party started!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #500 Duo Tone - one skein, and #505 Caribbean blue - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 8, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

And... from the back!

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1 inch

Now, before we begin the main pattern, which is adapted to the round from the Marrowbone Pattern from page 204 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, let's do a little notation note:

fc (front cross): slide 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, then k3 from cn

fc2 (front cross 2): slide 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cn

fc1 (front cross 1): slide 1 stitch to cn and hold in front, k1, then k1 from cn

Twisted Check Hat

Twisted Check Hat

First things first: I know I show this hat on my little lady friend here, but I actually knit it for my husband.  Who looks pretty good in it.  But when I tried to get him to pose for the pictures, he refused to do anything but make weird faces and quips about being a Top Model.  So... little lady friend it is.  Besides that, it's a little difficult to tell from the pictures, but the way this yarn is variegated made cool zig-zags in the pattern.  Or in other words, it's a good, basic unisex hat.  I also suspect I could make two hats out of my one ball of yarn, but I have too many other projects to complete before I test that hypothesis ("Buddy, what's a hypothesis?" "It's an idea you can test!" - Dinosaur Train).  Where was I again?  Oh yeah, the hat.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #500 Duo Tone - just one skein needed.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles, also in size 8

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1.5"

The body of this hat is worked in Twisted Check Pattern, which you can find on page 117 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Rows 1 & 2: Knit

Berry Swirl Hat



Berry Swirl Hat

And here's my second hat, which you will probably notice is in the exact same yarn as the Ripple Lattice Hat!  True story: I had two balls of the yarn.  Also, it's kind of fun to see how the same yarn knits in different designs, especially when that yarn is variegated, which always brings in an element of the unknown.  As far as this particular hat is concerned, the swirl effect is obviously a product of the variegation, so my recommendation if you're looking for a similar effect is to find a yarn that, in a ball, looks like it contains roughly the same amount of variegation.  In other words, not too much of a second color (see ball below).  And yet again, please see the Glossary if any of these terms are unfamiliar.  Otherwise, let's begin!

Yarn: SMC Riana Color (50% New Wool, 45% Acrylic, 5% Viscose; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #5843 - don't know the color name, might be discontinued, but this hat, like the other, only uses one skein.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpn), also in size 9

Notions: Marker, tapestry needle



Yeah, it's the same picture as before!!!

Gauge: 19 stitches x 25 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in a round

* k1, p1 * 1 inch in ribbing

The majority of this hat is knit in Berry Stitch, which I found in one of my favorite knitting books, or in other words on page 221 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns

Ripple Lattice Hat

Ripple Lattice Hat

All right!  So it's officially time to post my first hat, which I've named the "Ripple Lattice Hat" since it's both ripple-y and lattice-y.  Genius, I know.  Specs, recipe, and more pics below!  Oh, and quick note - if I use any terms or symbols that aren't familiar to you, please go to the Glossary!

Yarn: SMC Riana Color (50% New Wool, 45% Acrylic, 5% Viscose; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #5843 - don't know the color name, might be discontinued, but I only used one skein!!!

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpn), also in size 9

Notions: Marker, tapestry needle, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn for cabling


My three-year-old REALLY wanted to hold
the ball for the picture!

Gauge: 19 stitches x 25 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in a round

k1, p1, k1, p3 for one inch in ribbing

Rows 1 - 2: * k3, p3; rep from *

R 3: * k3, pass next 3 purled stitches to cable needle & hold in back, k3, p3 from cable needle, p3 *

R 4 – 5: * k6, p6 *