|Kids' Teensy Treasures Bag|
pictured in size medium
I came up with the idea for this bag for a very simple reason: you can find this style EVERYWHERE in Switzerland. Seriously, what I remember (perhaps incorrectly) as a passing fad in the United States took deep roots in Swiss soil, much like the "Parental Advisory" branded clothing and hats that, while virtually extinct stateside, still roam the Swiss countryside like long-hunted wolves. Wait! What am I talking about? Oh yeah - the bag! They're everywhere here, and they're all the same size: adult. Which gave me the oh-so-clever idea to create a variety of kid sizes, since kids, without question, freakin' love bags. Oh, and if you love the look of this too, you're in luck, since the extra-large size is basically just adult. :)
Sizes: Small (Medium; Large; Extra-Large) (approximate finished dimensions: 6" wide by 7.5" tall [8" x 9.5"; 10" x 11.5", 12" x 13.5"])
Yarn: Patons Grace (100% Mercerized Cotton; 136 yards [125 meters]/50 grams); #62628 Fiesta - 2 skeins (2 skeins; 3 skeins; 3 - 4 skeins)
|A closer view of the grommet|
hole thingamabob. I know, I'm a poet.
Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 stitch markers
Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette
So let's get this started! To begin this bag, then, we'll start by knitting the two drawstring-holding portions at the top separately and back-and-forth before joining them in the round (so the purled strips at the top that your straps lace through). With that in mind, and using your size US 4 needles, cast on 36 (48; 60; 72) stitches loosely. Then work the following rows:
Row 1 (right side): slip 1 stitch, purl until end of row
Row 2: slip 1 stitch, knit until end of row
Knit rows 1 & 2 five times and then knit row 1 once more (all sizes). Then, clip yarn tail and transfer work to your size US 5 circular needle to resume later. Again, using your size US 4 needles, cast on 36 (48; 60; 72) stitches loosely and work rows 1 & 2 five times and row 1 once more, although this time, when you finish, don't clip the tail. Transfer the work you've just finished to your size 5 needle, next to your other piece, making sure that the right sides (purl sides) are both oriented correctly, and that the piece you've just finished, with the running yarn connected, is lined up on the right-hand needle of your circulars so that you can continue work in the round. At that point, join in round, place row marker, and then knit one row around. Then we'll knit one transition/marker placement row, as follows. Since it's different for the different sizes, I have listed each size's row separately for ease.
Transition/Marker Placement Row (small): [(k2, m1r) twice, k2, p2, k20, place marker, p2, (k2, m1r) twice, k2] twice (80 stitches)
Transition/Marker Placement Row (medium): [(k2, m1r) twice, k2, p2, k32, place marker, p2, (k2, m1r) twice, k2] twice (104 stitches)
Transition/Marker Placement Row (large): [(k2, m1r) twice, k2, p2, k44, place marker, p2, (k2, m1r) twice, k2] twice (128 stitches)
Transition/Marker Placement Row (extra-large): [(k2, m1r) twice, k2, p2, k56, place marker, p2, (k2, m1r) twice, k2] twice (152 stitches)
Knit this transition/marker placement row, and then we'll begin our main pattern, as follows. You will need the following notation, although bear in mind that you can always cable without the cable needle, if you'd prefer:
back cross (bc): slip next two stitches to cn and hold in back; k2; k2 from cn
front cross (fc): slip next two stitches to cn and hold in front; k2; k2 from cn
Anyway, once you've got that down, we'll continue like so for all sizes:
Row 1: (k8, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, k8) twice
Row 2: (fc, bc, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, fc, bc) twice
Rows 3 - 5: (k8, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, k8) twice
Row 6: (bc, fc, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, bc, fc) twice
Rows 7 & 8: (k8, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, k8) twice
Knit in pattern until piece measures roughly 6" (8"; 10"; 12") from bottom of purled section and you've just finished row 6 of the pattern. Then we'll work a few finish rows, as follows:
Finish Row 1: [k2, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k2, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, k2, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k2] twice
Finish Row 2: (k8, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, k8) twice, working a (k1, p1) in each double yo
Finish Row 3: (k8, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, k8) twice
Finish Row 4: (fc, bc, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, fc, bc) twice
Finish Rows 5 - 7: (k8, p2, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, p2, k8) twice
Knit finish rows 1 - 7. Then, you can either seam the bottom of the bag by turning it inside out, dividing your stitches in half (these divides should, of course, line up with the ends of the purled sections above), and using a three needle bind off (this is what I did), or you can divide the stitches in half and then graft, or you can simply bind off regularly and seam. In any case, now's the time to bind off and seam the bottom of the bag. Once that's done, finish the purled drawstring-holding sections at the top by whip-stitching the cast-on edge in place (I whip-stitched them to the purls on the wrong-side of the transition row), and then, if desired, whip-stitch around the double yo holes at the bottom of the bag to reinforce them. I whip-stitched both sides of mine together for extra security, but of course if you whip-stitch them separately or simply leave them be you'll be able to hide the strap knots inside of the bag, if you'd like. Whatever you choose to do, once you've done it, tuck in ends and block.
Which brings us to the straps. To make them, use your size US 5 dpns to make two 4-stitch i-cords that are 32" (40"; 48"; 56") long apiece. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. After that's done, you can lace your bag up like you see demonstrated below. And FINALLY, knot ends of i-cords and hand to nearest child.
|Please don't make fun of my picture.|
You have no idea how long it took me to
make this, guys!