Zigzag Ribbon Stitch Cowl

Zigzag Ribbon Stitch Cowl

There's only one way to intro this piece, and that's with an extensive discussion of the yarn. I knew I had been eyeing this particular fiber for awhile, but I didn't realize how long it had been until I finally bought it and brought it home. I say that, of course, because as much as I look for this yarn online, I can't find it. By the label alone, in fact, it appears to be the exact same yarn that I used for the Pretty Plum Cowl. But it isn't - it's lighter weight, and a different color. At the end of the day, then, all I can really tell you about this yarn is that it's a cotton bamboo blend that's more of a sport weight (even if the label calls it a dk).

And now that that's out of the way, let's talk about the pattern! Since I knit a lighter-weight yarn on slightly larger needles, the piece gets that nice stretched-stitch look. The subtle stitch pattern is also very suitable for both solids and variegated yarns, and adds nice texture to the piece. Furthermore, although this piece is knit back-and-forth, it's seamless, and is joined by a provisional cast-on and a Kitchener stitch graft. This gives the mesh neck even more delicacy, and really suits the airiness of this cowl!

Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Cotton Bamboo Batik (50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #95 - one to two skeins (I got by with one)

Close-up, for your viewing pleasure

Needles: Size 6 straight needles

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches on size 4 needles

So let's get started! We're going to begin this piece with a provisional cast-on, instructions for which you can find here. So, using this technique, cast on 20 stitches. Then, knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Row 1 (right side): knit

Set-up Row 2: purl

And once that's done, we're going to work the following row until the piece measures about 8" long and you've just finished a wrong-side row. So here's how you'll proceed:

Neck Row: k1, * yo, ssk; rep from *, end k1

Twilled Stripe Hat

Twilled Stripe Hat

There's no doubt about it: I fell in love with this Twilled Stripe stitch pattern the first time I used it, in the Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers. But when I got the idea for this hat, which uses a combination of Twilled Stripes and dropped stitches, I thought that the combo might add a new dimension to the stripes. And, indeed, this slouchy hat gives the stitch pattern a whole different look. Not that it wouldn't still match the arm warmers...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #8906 Blue Topaz - one skein

A closer view

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 7 (optional but recommended: one 20" or 24" circular needle in size 7)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

So let's get this thing going! Before we start, I should point out that the magic doesn't really happen with this hat until you start dropping stitches, so don't worry if it just looks like an oversized rib at first. And now that the disclaimer has been issued, let's begin! Using your size 5 circular needle, cast on 108 stitches, place in marker, and join in round. Then, we'll knit the following ribbing row.

Ribbing row: * p1, k2; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 6 times and switch to your size 7 16" circular needle. Now it's time to move on to the main pattern, which is a combination of Twilled Stripe from page 147 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and some stitches we'll drop later. There's only one notation note, which goes a little something like this:

Left Twist (lt): skip 1 stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop, then slip the skipped stitch purlwise onto right-hand needle, then slide the knit stitch off of the needle as well

And now that the ribbing is complete and we have our notation down, let's knit one set-up row and then begin the pattern! So first, we'll knit this bad boy:

Vertical Drop-Stitch Scarf

Vertical Drop-Stitch Scarf

As a much younger woman, I was obsessed with scarves. I made them, I bought them, and I received them as thoughtful gifts. Then I had kids, and all of my beautiful scarves became glorified teething rings and/or nooses (and I discovered the cowl). Nevertheless, when I found this yarn, I knew it was time to design my first-ever scarf, this Vertical Drop-Stitch number. As an added bonus, it even has an I-cord edging, so it's as polished as it is pretty.

Yarn: Berroco Weekend DK (75% Acrylic, 25% Peruvian Cotton; 268 yards [247 meters]/100 grams); #2924 Rhubarb - one skein

The end detail

Needles: Size 6 straight needles

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

Okie-dokie-o, let's get started! As I've mentioned, we will be working this scarf with I-cord edgings, and as you can probably tell from the pictures, we will be tapering the ends for the prettiness factor. So, before we get to the main pattern, we will cast on 8 stitches and then work the following set-up rows. Your I-cord edgings will consist of 3 stitches on either edge of the piece, and if you want a tutorial about the process, please go here. Basically, we will be slipping these stitches on the right sides and purling them on the wrongs; that's really all you need to do to create what looks like an I-cord. Anyway, did you get those 8 stitches cast on? Good, then let's continue like so:

Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): p3, k2, p3

Set-up Row 2: slip 3 wyib (with yarn in back), m1r, p2, m1l, slip 3 wyib

Set-up Row 3: p4, k2, p4

Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves

Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves

You know what? I'm not even gonna intro these fingerless gloves. And you know why? Because Rihanna can definitely do it better -- not only was her song "Diamonds" the inspiration for the name of the Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves, but her video has it all; finger tattoos, wild horses, and burning roses. It's almost like my eleven-year-old self directed this video, except I would have included more crying in the rain. Ah, to be young again...

Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses

A bit closer look at the pattern.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9496 Buttercup – one skein (both sizes)

Needles: one set of double-pointed needles in size US 7, one set of double-pointed needles in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

And now that we've gotten that out of our system, let's make some gloves! So, using your size 5 needles, cast on 38 stitches (44 stitches) and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 13 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 13 on your third (place 13 stitches on your first needle, 18 on your second, and 13 on your third). Join in round. Then, knit the following set-up row 4 times (as you can see, it's different for the two sizes, but I've also used parentheses in the instructions for the smaller size. That's to indicate that a direction is repeated, and will occur again in the notation. Just remember that the alternate larger instructions will always occur after the smaller instructions in each row, and not in the middle of them):

Set-up Row:  k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1 (larger size: (p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times)

Sunny Stripes Hat

Sunny Stripes Hat
... plus a very wiggly child...

Sometimes, I feel as if I'm trapped in an endless hat knitting cycle with my children; as soon as I finish a hat for one of them, the other one immediately gets jealous and demands yet another hat. Which is how the Sunny Stripes Hat came to be, in all of its stripe-y glory. And it's not just the stripes that make it fun; it's also the slip stitch accentuated finish, which make it look almost like the celestial body it's named for. Plus, it comes in all sizes, so you can knit one for every member of your family (pets excluded)!

Sizes: Small (Medium; Large) (Small is 7.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 20" circumference head - think pre-schooler to young elementary, unless the kid's got a huge noggin like my children; Medium is 8.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 22" circumference head - think older kid to teen to smaller-headed adult (this would be my size); and Large is 9.5" from crown to bottom, and will fit up to a 24" circumference head - perfect for my husband)

The finishing. Slipped stitches
give it an extra sunny feel.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #8906 Blue Topaz - one skein (color A), Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #2439 Gelato - one skein (color B)

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Before we begin, a quick note about sizing; as you may have noticed, I recommend medium for anyone between, like, 5 and adult. This is simply because most head growth occurs in the first couple of years, and, for instance, my five-year-old's head is only 1" smaller than mine in circumference and 1/2" smaller than mine crown-to-base-of-ear. Which means, yes, we would both wear the medium. Of course, not everyone's children have such monstrous heads, and the small size could fit a much older child. Finally, if you're knitting this hat as a gift and have no idea about sizing, I recommend large for most men, medium for most women and teens, and small for most everyone between 2 and 8 or so. Go up a size if they seem large-headed, or add 1/2" to 1" to the length. And now that we're all thoroughly confused, let's get started!

Colorblocked V Cowl

Colorblocked V Cowl

Guess what, dudes?!?! Today marks the publication of my 100th pattern (this one, of course), and to celebrate, I'm posting something I love so much that I'm even going to keep it. And not only is the Colorblocked V Cowl next-level cute, but it's also an excellent choice for your leftover yarns (in fact, I made it with the yarn remaining after I knit the Arrowhead Lace Cowl II and the Striped for Spring Cowl). So let's get right to it!

Update (10/23/14): As of today, you can also find back-and-forth instructions for this piece following the regular instructions (so that means no circular knitting at the top)!

Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Cotton Bamboo (75% Cotton, 50% Bamboo; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #64 Aqua - one skein (color A), Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3777 African Violet - 1 skein (color B); #3705 Heathered Pansy - 1 skein (Color C)

Here you can see the detail a few slipped
stitches adds

Needles: One 16" or 20" circular needle in size 6

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! Using your color A yarn, cast on 112 stitches, place marker, and join in round (please note that this cowl, when finished, will be just over 20 inches in circumference. This should accommodate most head sizes, since knit stuff stretches and all, but if you want instructions for a slightly larger piece, just hit me up. It's still ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com). Anyway, then you'll knit the following row to place your extra stitch markers:

Stitch Marker Placement Row: k1, (p1, k1) 27 times, place marker, p2, place marker, k1, * p1, k1; rep from * to end of round

And now, we'll move on to a seed stitch for the top band of this cowl, like so:

Row 1: p1, * k1, p1 * to first marker, slip marker, p2, slip marker, p1, * k1, p1 * to end of round

Striped Anemone Cowl

Striped Anemone Cowl

Since I've been on maternity leave (the baby is now over two months old! and so cute!), I've been trying to use up all of my leftover yarn instead of going out and buying more. So, although my soul is suffering serious separation anxiety after going so long without a trip to the yarn store, my odds-and-ends pile is getting slimmer and slimmer. And this particular cowl is knit with the leftovers from the Long-Slip Striped Table Runner. Luckily, I'm still not tired of knitting with this yarn, although at this point I have very little left.

Detail. It really does look like little sea anemones, no?

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jeannee (51% Cotton, 49% Acrylic; 111 yards [102 meters]/50 grams); #0023 (Lavender) - one skein (color A), #0006 (Sage) - one skein (color B), #0022 (Gray) - one skein (color C), & #0033 (Teal) - one skein (color D)

Needles: 16" or 20" circular needle in size 8

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Using your color A yarn, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Purl one row around. And now, it's time to begin our main pattern, which is a four-color, in-the-round variation on Anemone Stitch from page 131 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. As you'll notice when you're knitting it, your back seam will be very loose. The best way to combat this is by clipping the tail of each color yarn after you work it and knotting the tails instead of trying to carry them up the piece. Oh, and the pattern won't start looking good until you knit a few rows, so don't get scared if it looks weird at first! Anyway, let's proceed like so:

Row 1: using color B, * k1, (yo) twice; rep until *

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat - right side

My five-year-old picked out this yarn ages ago, and has been bugging me to make something with it ever since. And after rejecting my first two designs (what can I say? the kid knows what he wants!), this fun hat finally passed muster. Even better, the wrong side of the design is just as charming as the right side, so the child you knit it for can wear it either way!

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat - wrong side

Sizes: Ages 18 months - 3 years (Ages 4 - 6; Ages 7 - 10)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Fingering (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 273 yards [250 meters]/50 grams); #9430 Forest Green - one skein

Needles: 16" circular needle in size 3, one set of double pointed needles, also in size 3

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches

So let's do this thang! First, using your circular needle, cast on 128 (144; 144) stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit 1" (1.75"; 1.25") in a k1, p1 ribbing. And then we'll get right to the main pattern, which is Cocoon Stitch from page 131 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. As you can see, there is no difference in pattern between the three sizes. And here we go!

Arrowhead Lace Cowl II

Arrowhead Lace Cowl II

When I first bought this yarn, I had a certain idea of what to do with it. Then, of course, the minute I started knitting, I realized that this fiber was unsuited for my plan - although it drapes nicely in this particular piece, it was too stiff for my original design. And THEN I remembered how lovely the lace pattern from the original Arrowhead Lace Cowl was, and I knew I had a winner for this fiber. To create a more necklace-like appearance, I also decided to seam the stockinette portion at the back of this piece. This also keeps it a lighter weight for warmer weather!

The pattern, again.

Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Cotton Bamboo (75% Cotton, 50% Bamboo; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #64 Aqua - two skeins

Needles: 24" circular needle in size 4

Notions: Tapestry needle, five stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! First, cast on 181 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then, knit 10, place first extra marker, k71, place second extra marker, k19, place third extra marker, and then knit until the you have 10 stitches left in the round and place your final extra marker. Then, knit until end of the round. And once that's done, it's time to begin our pattern, which incorporates Arrowhead Lace from page 193 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. As a side note, I read somewhere on the Internet (wish I remembered where!) that you can straighten out your ssk's by knitting the ssk stitch through the back loop when you come to it on the next round. I used that technique. You can too, if you want! Anyway, we'll proceed as follows:

Wickerwork Hat

Wickerwork Hat

I stumbled across this yarn in my stash the other day and I realized that it would make the perfect gift for a friend who's about to move away. So I got right down to work and created this fun Wickerwork Hat, complete with pompom (there is a photo of it without the pompom below, in case you want to see it without). It would also make a great stash-busting holiday gift, since I think most of us have at least a skein or two of worsted-weight wool hanging around!

* Note: As of November 2, 2015, I have added a chart to this pattern using the ever-wonderful chart generator here. You can find it below. Please note, however, that I had to do some funky stuff with the charting to make it work (it should all be explained in the chart graphic, but let me know if there's a problem. Also, let me know if there's a better way to chart any of my issues, and I'll fix it! :) )

Sans pompom. In a different color, this would
make a nice man-hat as well.

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure New Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #202 (Cream) - one skein

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 5, 16" circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

So let's get started! First, using your size 5 needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then, knit 1.5" in the following ribbing:

Ribbing Row: k1, * p2, k2; rep from *; end p2, k1

And once that's done, we'll switch to our size 8 needles and our main pattern, which is Wickerwork Pattern from page 146 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. For this pattern, we'll need the following notation (you can find videos for the techniques below them):

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

How to Make a Yarn Pompom

I'm getting ready to post a hat that needs a pompom, so I figured that it was finally time to suck it up and write out some pompom-making instructions. And while I know there are many methods, this is the one I think works best. So let's get started!

1. Notice my circles aren't perfect. They don't need to be!

1. Cut out two cardboard circles that are roughly 3” in diameter, and cut a 1” hole in the middle. As you’ll notice, exact precision isn’t necessary. You can also cut bigger or smaller circles, depending on how big you want your pompom to be (this one will be a shy two inches, since that's the difference between your outer circle and your inner circle, and it shrinks a little with the tight wrapping. If you make a mondo pompom, you'll want to cut a bigger center hole, since you'll need a boatload of wrapping to make it look right).

2. And now, start wrapping that sucker up!

2. Thread a long tail (3+ yards, or as much as you’re willing to use, really) of yarn on your tapestry needle, and then, holding your two cardboard pieces together, loop through center hole repeatedly, with some care not to get your end tangled up in the loops.