Bricklayer's Lace Baby Blanket

Bricklayer's Lace Baby Blanket

The story behind this project is simple: I've reached the age where my friends are starting to have babies, so I've started to knit baby blankets. Therefore, as soon as I knew a friend was pregnant, I began looking for the right fiber at my local yarn store. And I passed this one by for months and months before I finally saw it knit up, and loved the way the stitches looked like rain drops. So I brought it home and found this lovely stitch pattern, which shows off both the yarn and the pattern. And it's a quick knit, since it's chunky and all!

Yarn: James C. Brett Flutterby (100% Supersoft Polyester; 192 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #B3 Blue - 3 skeins

The pattern. For all the bricklaying
babies out there.

Needles: 32" or longer circular needle in size US 10

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 11 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Okay dudes, are you ready to make a baby blanket? Then let's get started! First, cast on 96 stitches loosely. And then we'll knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): knit

Set-up Row 2: knit

Set-up Row 3: knit

Set-up Row 4: knit

Five Pillars Hat

Five Pillars Hat

I would tell you how many times I frogged this thing, except I can't count that high. Okay, so I'm exaggerating. But it is no exaggeration that I put extra work into the Five Pillars Hat to make it not just run of the mill, but extraordinary. And although the design is unisex, I highly recommend knitting it with a slightly larger gauge yarn if you're making it for a larger-headed person or a man (think 15 stitches = 4 inches instead of 16, and possibly a size US 10 needle to get your gauge). Oh, and, as of October 6, 2015, I've charted this pattern. You can find the chart below*. :)

* Updated as of 08/22/16

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Aran (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 150 yards [137.5 meters]/100 grams); #817 Aran - one skein

The back.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 7, one 16" circular needle in size US 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 9, and a cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle for cabling


Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches on size 9 needles

So let's make a hat, eh? First, then, using your size 7 needle, cast on 85 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a few ribbing rows, as follows:

Ribbing Row: * knit two stitches through their back loops (k2-tbl), (p1, k1) 6 times, p1, k2-tbl; rep from *

Kids' Banana Beanie

Kids' Banana Beanie

The baby is 6 months old now, so I figured it was high time he made his debut. And what better way to do it than sporting a chunky weight baby hat that can be sized all the way up to 12 years (he's wearing the 9 month size, though - I just couldn't bring myself to knit something he would outgrow immediately)? Anyway, there's not really much else to say about this piece, except for the fact that it's a quick and easy knit, and that its subtle pattern is oh-so-cute.

Sizes: 6 months (9 months; 12 months; up to 3 years; up to 12 years) (to be clearer on sizes: the 6 month will fit up to a 16" head, the 9 month a 17" head, the 12 month an 18" head, the 3 year a 19" head, and the 12 year up to a 21" head)

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6122 Banana - 1 skein, plus roughly 10 yards of contrasting color, if desired for pompom

A better shot of the pattern,
And the pom pom.

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 10, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 10

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches on size 10 needles

So let's get started! First, as a side note, I knit this entire hat with my size 10 needles. However, you could cast on and knit the first five-ish rows with a size 9, if you desired, for a bit of extra snugness at the bottom of the hat. And now that the note is out of the way - using the 16" circular needle of your desired gauge, cast on 52 (56; 60; 64; 68) stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit one set-up row, like so:

Set-up Row: * k3, p1; rep from *

And once that's done, let's move straight to our main pattern, which goes as follows:

Row 1: * k1, p1 *

Rows 2 & 4: * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back, k1, p1 *

Row 3: * k3, p1 *

Ruched Shawlette

Ruched Shawlette
(According to my spellchecker,
I made up both of those words)

The story of this item is simple - I received a box full of beautiful homespun yarns as a gift, and this particular yarn told me exactly what it wanted me to do with it. Namely, it wanted to be made into a beautiful and simple triangle scarf (shawlette? I am still struggling with the vocabulary of this particular design). Whatever you call it, though, this is a perfect pattern for that gorgeous handspun you've had your eye on, one that's made especially nice by the column of ruching down the front of the piece. Blah blah blah, how about I stop talking now and start knitting instead?

Yarn: Homespun I received as a gift (100% Superfine Merino; 356 yards [326 meters]/?? grams); hand-dyed - 1 skein

The ruching. It's subtle in this yarn
but I promise it's there.

Needles: Size US 10 needles, 16" or longer size US 8 circular needle (for length, not for circular knitting), plus a size US 11 or larger needle for your provisional cast-on


Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 15 stitches = 4 inches

Using your size 11 or larger needle and the provisional cast-on technique, cast on 54 stitches. Transfer to your size 10 needles and proceed as follows:

Row 1: knit until there are four stitches left in row, k2tog, k2

Rows 2 & 4: k2, purl until there are two stitches left in row, k2

Row 3: knit

Knit rows 1 though 4 until you have 38 stitches left on your needle and you've just completed row 4 (if you have yarn to spare, you could continue these four rows longer. As is, the piece measures 52" across. Each additional time you repeat these four rows before moving on to the next set will add about 1/2" to the finished length). Anyway, when you're ready, we'll proceed as follow:

Honeycomb Legwarmers

Honeycomb Legwarmers

So I'm going to be honest, here; the main reason I knit these legwarmers in these yarns is because I had no idea what else to do with them. The accent yarn is a chunky acrylic-based variegated, which has not only a color change, but is also always two colors at any given time. And the main color yarn is mostly-white, but has occasional flecks of black. Long story short, I was worried that knitting either of them up plain would swallow the pattern. And, while I may be delusional, I think that the slipped stitch, ribbing pattern I've developed here shows off both yarns, while also creating a warm, lofty ribbing that's well suited to a legwarmer.

I even made two!

Sizes: I recommend sizing these close to the biggest part of your calf (it's your choice whether you'd like them to turn out tighter or looser). Therefore, I will give sizing instructions for a calf of roughly 12" (14", 16"), and you can scale up or down by roughly 2" by casting on more or less stitches in sets of 9. You can also change your needle gauge for more incremental variations in size.

Yarn: Lana Gatto Bon Bon (56% Wool, 24% Acrylic, 20% Nylon; 126 yards [115 meters]/50 grams); #5589 White Grey - 2 skeins (color A) & Schachenmayr Original Boston Style (42% Acrylic, 39% Polyester, 19% Wool; 66 yards [60 meters]/50 grams); #599 Black - 2 skeins (color B)

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 10.5

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 15 stitches = 4 inches

Cable Chevron Hat

Cable Chevron Hat

The inspiration for this hat was simple: our neighbors keep blowing the snow out of our driveway, and my husband suffers from a monumental guilt complex about it. So he asked me to make a hat for the man across the street, presumably to keep his head warm while he's taking care of our snow... 

Update 12/24/2014: I have had a few comments that this hat has ended up on the small side, when finished. As a cabled hat worked in large yarn, it will definitely get a bit tighter than gauge. Therefore, I highly recommending working it on size US 11 needles if you're making it for a large head, and to double-check gauge! Furthermore, this yarn is very sturdy and chunky, and doesn't compress much. If you're working with a fluffy fiber, you may need even larger needles to produce the correct result. Or, you could simply cast on 12 extra stitches, for a total of 84 rather than 72. This modification will change the finished appearance of this hat very little :)

Yarn: Berroco Blackstone Tweed Chunky (65% Wool, 25% Superkid Mohair, 10% Angora Rabbit Hair; 60 yards [55 meters]/50 grams); #6656 Narragansett - 2 skeins

The back. Pretty, no? (in a manly way of course)

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one 16" circular needle in size 10.5, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10.5, and a cable needle (cn) or double-pointed needle for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or scrap yarn to mark row

Gauge: 13 stitches = 4 inches

Using your size 9 needle, cast on 72 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit six rows in a k2, p2 ribbing, and then switch to your size 10.5 circular needle. Now, we'll get started on the main pattern, which is Cable Chevron from page 290 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. And it goes like so:

Diagonal Weave Cowl

Diagonal Weave Cowl

So here's the deal; I was so inspired by the yarn-mixing of my Little Bowknot Hat that I finally allowed myself to buy another one of the loner skeins of clearance yarn I've been dying for (in this case, the Berroco Versa, which is a light chunky-weight cotton acrylic blend that comes in sort of a knit tube, if you're looking for something similar). And I have to admit that I've very pleased with the results of this pattern, especially considering how little yarn I used, and how fun it was to knit. Worked with an asymmetrical line of eyelets, then, the Diagonal Weave Cowl is a great opportunity to combine a couple of stash skeins into a striking project.

A close-up of the weave pattern itself.

Yarn: Schachenmayr Ragge Yarn (70% New Wool, 30% Polyamide; 87 yards [80 meters]/50 grams); #102 Cream (color A) - one skein & Berroco Versa (50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic; 81 yards [75 meters]/50 grams); #3671 Travertine (color B) - one skein

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 8, and one 24" circular needle in size 10

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers or scraps of yarn to mark stitches

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches

So let's do this! Using color A (for us, the cream) and your size 8 circular needle, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit 3 rows in a k2, p2 ribbing, placing your additional stitch marker after you've worked 49 stitches. Slip marker when you come to it during your ribbing rows, and transfer piece to your size 10 needle when you're finished with this. Knit one row around, still slipping extra marker when you come to it.

Slipped Cable Hat

Slipped Cable Hat

With the last couple of posts (specifically, the North Star Hat and the Basket Tweed Hat), I've been developing three color change hat patterns which can all be knit with the same three skeins of yarn (so, you know, you can buy three skeins and then make three hats, all with three colors!). So here's the last one, and, perhaps, the most attractive...

The finishing

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6167 Dewberry - 1 skein, #6123 Blush - 1 skein, and #6185 Tide Pool - skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 10, and one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using your circular needle and your main color (in our case, #6167 Dewberry), cast on 80 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit one set-up row as follows:

Set-up Row 1: * k6, p2; rep from *

And now we'll start the pattern on this one, which is Slipped Cable Rib from page 106 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. And here it is:

Basket Tweed Hat

Basket Tweed Hat

As promised with the North Star Hat, I'm currently posting a series of three color change hats that can all be knit with the same three skeins of yarn. And here's the second one, which is made by creating a cabled band, and then picking up stitches along the edge for a drop stitch pattern in the body of the hat. So let's get to it!

Finished with a star design!

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6123 Blush - 1 skein, #6185 Tide Pool - 1 skein, and #6167 Dewberry - 1 skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 10, and one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10, cable needle (cn) or double-pointed needle for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

To knit this hat, we're going to begin with the band, for which you'll use your circular needle, although you'll be knitting back and forth (well, if you want to use your dpns for this, you could do that too). Anyway, begin by casting on 16 stitches with your main color yarn (for me, that's the blush), and then we'll move straight to the pattern:

North Star Hat

North Star Hat

Much to my dismay, I recently discovered that my local yarn store was discontinuing the Berroco Vintage Chunky. So I immediately bought these three skeins, with the idea that I would combine them into as many items as I could. And the first thing I came up with is this fairly awesome hat, which uses mostly the main color yarn, and a few scraps of the other two. But let's get to the pattern already!

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6185 Tide Pool - 1 skein, #6123 Blush - 1 skein, and #6167 Dewberry - 1 skein

The finishing

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one 16" circular needle in size 10, and one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using your size 9 circular needle and your main color yarn (which in our case is #6185 Tide Pool), cast on 84 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Next, knit 4 rows in a k2, p2 ribbing, and then switch to your size 10 needles. Knit four rows around, and then it's time to begin the main pattern, which is the North Star Pattern from page 99 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. Please bear in mind that this is a slip stitch pattern, and yarn should be kept quite loose behind slipped stitches, especially when slipping multiple stitches together (this note goes double if you haven't knit many slip stitch patterns before - really, make it loose!). Oh, and before we get started, let's define the dip stitch as follows:

Moorish Lattice Hat

Moorish Lattice Hat

Okay, I made a very similar version of this exact hat last year, for someone's Christmas gift. And when I discovered that it had been loved to the point of falling apart, I figured it was time to make a new one, and this time write the pattern down. I hope you enjoy it as much as the recipient!

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca Grande (100% Baby Alpaca; 110 yards (100 grams); #701 Ink Melange – one skein

The back!

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 10.5, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 10.5

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using circular needle, cast on 72 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Next, work 1.5" in a k1, p1 ribbing. Once the ribbing is done, we'll get down to business. And the pattern we'll be using is Moorish Lattice from page 232 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, which I've adapted for the round. So let's get started!

First, we'll knit three set-up rows, which go as follows:

Set-up rows 1 - 3: * p3, k3; rep from *

Rib & Cable Hat

Rib & Cable Hat

The name isn't flashy but the hat looks pretty darn good anyway; pairing cables which jump ribs and, well, ribbing, this thing squeezes up tight until you're ready to stick it on your head. Yeah, I have no idea what I'm talking about. So let's just make a hat already!

The finishing!

Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6176 Pumpkin – one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 10, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10, and a cable needle (cn) or double-pointed needle for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Cast on 80 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Now we're going to work a ribbing row, which looks like so:

Ribbing row: * p1, k2, p1, (k1, p2, k1, p1) twice, k2; rep from *

Twisted Rib Hat

Twisted Rib Hat

Okay folks, here we have another sale yarn special, born from a great deal at the back rack of a Wisconsin Craft Market. That being said, I think this turned into a fairly attractive, gender-neutral beanie which pairs vertical ribbing with ever-so-slight horizontal stripes of slouch. And it's got a nice finishing. That counts for something, right?

The pattern, with its subtle twisted ribs

Yarn: Berroco Blackstone Tweed Chunky (65% Wool, 25% Superkid Mohair, 10% Angora Rabbit Hair; 60 yards [55 meters]/50 grams); #6607 Wintry Mix - 2 skeins

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 10.5, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10.5

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker or scrap yarn to mark row

Gauge: 13 stitches = 4 inches

Note (2/03/14): Since I made this hat for my husband, I've been able to observe how it wears. And while it's his favorite hat, it's also gotten looser with time, so I recommend knitting at least the band with a smaller needle size (size 9 or 10), for fit. The whole thing could also be knit on a size 10 needle if you prefer a slightly more snug hat.

So let's get started. Using your circular needle, cast on 72 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Knit five rows of the following ribbing row before moving on to the main pattern:

Chunky Triangle Rib Hat

Chunky Triangle Rib Hat

I've been eyeing this yarn for a while, but it took it finally going on sale for me to buy it (I think this color is discontinued). And once I brought it home, I knew that I needed to make a pattern simple enough that the variegation and chunkiness wouldn't hide the design. So here's what I came up with. Incidentally, I gave it the slouchy shape because I had enough yarn to do it; if you prefer a more traditional beanie shape, repeat the main pattern 6 times instead of 9, and the work the decreases as stated. Also, if you have a 16" circular needle in a 10 1/2 or a 10, you may want to work the ribbed band in that instead of the size 11, if you want it to fit tighter.

Yarn: Berroco Borealis (60% Acrylic, 40% Wool; 108 yards [100 meters]/100 grams); #5079 Hekla - 1 skein 


A close-up of the pattern.

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size #11, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size #11

Notions: tapestry needle

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches

Using circular needle, cast on 70 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit 4 rows in a (k1, p1, k1, p2) ribbing. Then we'll move on to the main pattern, which goes like so:

Row 1: * yo, k3tog, yo, p2; rep from *

Rows 2 & 3: * k3, p2 *

Tilting Ladder Hat

Tilting Ladder Hat

Okay, so I made a hat like this for myself nearly a year ago, but, like a genius, I didn't write down the pattern. Then I didn't have any chunky yarn. Finally, however, I bought some and recreated the hat, as I think it's a really fun to knit, fast, and interesting pattern that's a nice weight for fall (with the holes and all). So let's get to it!

Yarn: Bernat Alpaca (70% Acrylic, 30% Alpaca; 120 yards [110 meters]/100 grams); #93310 Plum - 1 skein 


Needles: one 16" circular needle in size #10, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size #10, cable needle (cn) or dpn for cabling

The finishing

Notions: tapestry needle

Gauge: 15 stitches = 4 inches

Using circular needle, cast on 78 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Work 6 rows in a ribbing, which goes like so:

Ribbing row: * (k1, p1) five times, k1, p2 *

Once your six ribbing rows are complete, it's time to move to the Tilting Ladder pattern, which comes from page 210 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. It also goes as follows (after being adapted for the round, of course):

Row 1: * k5, p1, k5, p2 *

Row 2: * k5, p1, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, p2 *