Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Mossy Path Mitts

Mossy Path Mitts

I've been noticing a lot of things as I walk around recently; pretty windows, even prettier balconies, and a plethora of semi-indecent carvings and statues. I've also noticed a lot of moss. It creeps between bricks, climbs up walls, and spreads over stones. It was also the inspiration for the slipped stitch color pattern of these lovely, snuggly mitts. :)

Oh, and a big note on the sizing of these bad boys, too: I debated casting on an extra 5 stitches for each size (i.e. instructing to cast on 45 stitches for the smalls instead of 40), but ultimately decided that the sizing is correct as given because, at the very upper end of the size small, I love the snug hug of these mitts. However, if you have any trouble keeping your yarn loose behind your slipped stitches or if you don't want a super snug-fitting mitt, I highly recommend that you knit one size larger than you might otherwise. Same goes if you're making these as a gift - don't make the small unless you've got specific hand dimensions or you're making them for a child, a bird, or a frenemy you want to feel guilty about the time you put into knitting mitts that she simply can't squeeze on.

Sizes: small (medium; large) (the small will fit a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb, the medium up to 9", and the large goes up to about 9.75")

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Sport (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 136 yards [125 meters]/50 grams); #859 Lake Chelan Heather - one skein (color A) & #220 Spring Green - one skein (color B)

A closer look at the mitts.
Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 5, one set of dpns in size US 6

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 6 needles (roughly 26 inches = 4 inches unstretched in pattern)

So let's make some mitts! Using your size US 5 needles and your color A yarn, then, cast on 40 (45; 50) stitches loosely, dividing stitches between three dpns as follows: 15 stitches on your first needle; 10 on your second; and 15 on your third ([15; 15; 15]; [15; 20; 15]). Join in round. Then we'll work some ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row: * (k1, p1) twice, k1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 6 (6; 7) times. Then, transfer work to your size 6 needles. Once that's done, we'll move to our main pattern, as follows:

Row 1: using color A, knit

Row 2: using color A, * ssk, m1r, k1, m1l, k2tog *

Row 3: using color B, * (slip 1 stitch with yarn in back (sl1 wyib), k1) twice, sl1 wyib *

Row 4: using color B, * (sl1 wyib, p1) twice, sl1 wyib *

Some of the prettier moss I've seen
recently. And I know - it looks like
the picture is sideways. It's not!
It's really growing on a wall.
Knit rows 1 - 4 until piece measures roughly 3.5" (4"; 4.5") and you've just finished row 4 of the pattern. Then we'll begin to gusset in our thumb with the following transition rows. Note that you'll want to use your color A running thread for all of your gusset m1r's and m1l's through the transition rows and the gusset rows that follow, not the color B running thread from the row immediately preceding each addition row. Anyway, we'll work like so:

Transition Row 1: using color A, m1r, knit until end of round

Transition Row 2: using color A, k1, * ssk, m1r, k1, m1l, k2tog *

Transition Row 3: using color B, sl1 wyib, * (sl1 wyib, k1) twice, sl1 wyib *

Transition Row 4: using color B, sl1 wyib, * (sl1 wyib, p1) twice, sl1 wyib *

Knit transition rows 1 - 4, and then we'll move on to the main part of our gusset, as follows:

Gusset Row 1: using color A, knit until you have 15 stitches left on your first needle, m1r, knit across remainder of stitches on your first and second needles; then, k15 from 3rd needle, m1l, knit until end of round (yes, the first time you knit this row you will only have 15 stitches left on your 3rd needle, and will therefore end the round with a m1l and no subsequent knitting)

Gusset Row 2: using color A, knit until you have 15 stitches left on your first needle, (ssk, m1r, k1, m1l, k2tog) 8 (9; 10) times, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 3: using color B, * sl1 wyib, k1 * until you have 15 stitches left on first needle, ((sl1 wyib, k1) twice, sl1 wyib) 8 (9; 10) times, k1, then; * sl1 wyib, k1 * for any stitches you have remaining on your 3rd needle (yes, you won't have any on your first time around)

Gusset Row 4: using color B, * sl1 wyib, p1 * until you have 15 stitches left on first needle, ((sl1 wyib, p1) twice, sl1 wyib) 8 (9; 10) times, p1, then; * sl1 wyib, p1 * for any stitches you have remaining on your 3rd needle (yes, you won't have any on your first time around)

Gusset Row 5: using color A, knit until you have 15 stitches left on your first needle, m1r, knit across remainder of stitches on your first and second needles; then, k15 from 3rd needle, m1l, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 6: using color A, knit until you have 15 stitches left on your first needle, (ssk, m1r, k1, m1l, k2tog) 8 (9; 10) times, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 7: using color B, k1; then, * sl1 wyib, k1 * until you have 15 stitches left on first needle, ((sl1 wyib, k1) twice, sl1 wyib) 8 (9; 10) times, * k1, sl1 wyib * until end of round

Gusset Row 8: using color B, p1; then, * sl1 wyib, p1 * until you have 15 stitches left on first needle, ((sl1 wyib, p1) twice, sl1 wyib) 8 (9; 10) times, * p1, sl1 wyib * until end of round

Knit gusset rows 1 - 8 until you have 23 (24; 25) stitches on your first dpn and 22 (23; 24) on your third and you've just finished row 1 or row 5 of the gusset (depending on the size mitt you're making). Clip yarn tails and transfer first 8 (9; 10) stitches from first needle and the final 7 (8; 9) stitches from your third needle to a scrap of yarn to save later, for thumb. Now we'll resume the main pattern, as given below, rejoining the mitt at the thumb break. Notice that the pattern will be the same for all sizes, even though you may have left off at different gusset rows.

Row 1: using color A, * ssk, m1r, k1, m1l, k2tog *

Row 2: using color B, * (slip 1 stitch with yarn in back (sl1 wyib), k1) twice, sl1 wyib *

Row 3: using color B, * (sl1 wyib, p1) twice, sl1 wyib *

Row 4: using color A, knit

Knit rows 1 - 4 until mitt measures roughly 1.5" (1.75"; 2") from thumb break and you've just completed row 4 of the pattern. Cut the tail for your color B yarn, since you're done with it. Transfer mitt back to your size 5 dpns and work ribbing as follows:

Ribbing Row: * (k1, p1) twice, k1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 3 (3; 4) times and bind off loosely in pattern. Finally, transfer 15 (17; 19) thumb stitches back to your size 5 dpns, being careful not to place the thumb break at a needle end. Using your color A yarn, work in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break, for 6 (6; 7) rows. Bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends, and make another!






4 comments:

  1. Love these! Beautiful interpretation of moss; one of my favorite things in nature. Your design sense is amazing. I've been looking for a pattern that will adapt for my particular purpose — and it sounds like they will stretch to be large enough. I don't have large hands, but I do need the extra room.

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    Replies
    1. So glad to hear you like the mitts! :) They are very warm and snuggly with the slipped stitches and all. Anyway, let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help!

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  2. Love these! I have really enjoyed the fingerless mittens you gave me. I might knit a pair of my own!

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