Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves

Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves

Did you knit the Sailor's Rib Cowl, but still can't find anything to wear with it? Never fear, these Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves will do just the trick! Made with a reinforced palm and plenty of ribbing to keep them snug around the wrists and fingers, these mitts are sturdy, stylish, and warm. They are also suitable for either a man or a woman, with three sizes for your knitting pleasure.

Note: As of 12/27/17, I have revised this pattern for clarity. If you notice anything amiss, please please please let me know! :)

Sizes: small (medium; large) - directions for larger sizes will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses (and, for clarification, the small is for a hand roughly 7" - 7.5" in circumference at the base of the thumb, medium for 7.5" - 8.25", and large for 8.25" - 9")

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9458 Bainbridge Island Heather - 1 skein

Needles: one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 5, one set of dpns in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

And with that, let's make some gloves! These mitts are designed as mirror images, so we'll work them one at a time, as follows.

Left Mitt

Using your size 5 needles, cast on 36 (40; 44) stitches and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 12 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 12 on your third (12, 16, 12; 14, 16, 14). Join in round. Then we'll work the ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Work ribbing row until mitt measures 2" (2.5"; 3"). Then, switch to your size 7 needles and we'll begin incorporating the main pattern, which is Fisherman's Rib from page 4 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. Anyway, we'll continue as follows. Notice I have given each size's instructions separately, for clarity.

Size Small:

Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Row 3: (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Size Medium:

Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Row 3: k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Row 3: k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Knit rows 1 - 4 of whichever size you're making, and then we'll set up our gusseting rows as follows. Again, I have broken the sizes down, for clarity:

Size Small:

Gusset Set-Up Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1 (+1 stitch)

Size Medium:

Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1  (+1 stitch)

Size Large:

Gusset Set-up Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Set-up Row 2: m1r, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3 (+1 stitch)

Complete these two gusset row for your given size. Once those are done, we'll continue like so. Again, I have broken out the instructions for each individual size.

Size Small:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches)

Size Medium:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches)

Size Large:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches)

Work gusset rows 1 - 4 until you've added 8 (8; 9) extra stitches to your first needle and 7 (7; 8) to your third and you've just completed either row 2 or row 4 of the gusset pattern. Knit across first 8 (8; 9) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and final 7 (7; 8) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb. Then, we'll continue the same pattern we worked before, joining mitt back in round at thumb hole. I've rewritten the pattern rows below, for your convenience, but remember that, if you quit knitting your gusset at row 2, you'll begin the below pattern at row 1, whereas if you quit knitting your gusset at row 4, you'll begin the below pattern at row 3.

Size Small:

Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Row 3: (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1

Size Medium:

Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Row 3: k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Row 2: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Row 3: k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3

Knit rows 1 - 4 of your desired size mitt until mitt measures roughly 1" from thumb break and you've just finished row 2 or row 4 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size 5 needles, and we'll work a ribbing as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1" (1.25"; 1.5"). Bind off loosely in pattern. Next, transfer thumb stitches to your size 5 needles. Knit 5 (6; 7) rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break when you reach it (if that stitch should be a purl, it's fine to pick up a knit stitch on that first row around!). Bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends and block.

Right Mitt

Using your size 5 needles, cast on 36 (40; 44) stitches and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 12 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 12 on your third (12, 16, 12; 14, 16, 14). Join in round. Then we'll work the ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Work ribbing row until mitt measures 2" (2.5"; 3"). Then, switch to your size 7 needles and we'll begin incorporating the main pattern. Notice I have given each size's instructions separately, for clarity.

Size Small:

Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 3: k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4

Size Medium:

Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 3: k20, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 2: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 3: k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, k2

Row 4: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2

Knit rows 1 - 4 of whichever size you're making, and then we'll set up our gusseting rows as follows. Again, I have broken the sizes down, for clarity:

Size Small:

Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1 (+1 stitch)

Size Medium:

Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1 (+1 stitch)

Size Large:

Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2 (+1 stitch)

Complete these two gusset row for your given size. Once those are done, we'll continue like so. Again, I have broken out the instructions for each individual size.

Size Small:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of row (and yes, on your first time working this row you will have none left to knit at the end)

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (yes; on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after your m1l)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches)

Size Medium:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k20, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (yes; on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after your m1l)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches)

Size Large:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of row

Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (yes; on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after your m1l)

Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round

Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches)

Knit gusset rows 1 - 4 until you've added 8 (8; 9) extra stitches to your first needle and 7 (7; 8) to your third and you've just completed either row 2 or row 4 of the gusset pattern. Knit across first 8 (8; 9) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and  final 7 (7; 8) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb. Then, we'll continue the same pattern we worked before, joining mitt back in round at thumb hole. I've rewritten the pattern rows below, for your convenience, but remember that, if you quit knitting your gusset at row 2, you'll begin the below pattern at row 1, whereas if you quit knitting your gusset at row 4, you'll begin the below pattern at row 3. 

Size Small:

Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1

Row 3: k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4

Size Medium:

Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 2: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1

Row 3: k20, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round

Row 4: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1

Size Large:

Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 2: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 3: k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, k2

Row 4: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2

Knit rows 1 - 4 of your desired size mitt until mitt measures roughly 1" from thumb break and you've just finished row 2 or row 4 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size 5 needles, and we'll work a ribbing as follows:

Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1" (1.25"; 1.5"). Bind off loosely in pattern. Next, transfer thumb stitches to your size 5 needles. Knit 5 (6; 7) rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break when you reach it (if that stitch should be a purl, it's fine to pick up a knit stitch on that first row around!). Bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends and block.






94 comments:

  1. Gretchen, thanks so very much for designing these gloves. They look great in the pictures. I will get started this evening. I commented under the cowl. You might have sent me an email that I overlooked. I get a bunch and don't check my emails as much like I used to. I think I will be knitting the sailor's rib cowl and the fingerless gloves for Christmas presents. Don't forget the hat to match. I might be knitting a set for each of the guys going on the sailing trip with my son in January around the Caribbean. Again, THANKS from Deborah S Prather, Sailor Girl.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Deborah!

      Yes, I did email you when I posted this pattern, but I'm glad you found it either way. I hope you like them! And I do still have the hat in my queue, although I have a few other projects to finish first. :)

      Delete
  2. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I went back and found the email. I just have not been checking my emails like I used to. I have moved from Louisville, Kentucky to Fredericksburg, Virginia. I am having trouble getting unpacked and settled. I drove back to Louisville to take care of some business and to attend a conference. Turns out I do not have the right needles with me to get started on the gloves. I had brought the circular needles that I used to knit the cowl. I plan to go by Jo Ann's Monday. I do not want to wait until I get back to Virginia next week. I had time to get started tonight (Sunday). Bummer.

      Delete
    2. I'm sorry to hear you don't have the right needles with you. That's always the worst! Anyway, let me know if you have any questions about this pattern once you get started. :) And I hope you have a good time back in Louisville!

      Delete
  3. Gretchen, after the ribbing do knit Rows 1-4 just one time before the gusset set-up? My brain froze. I think it's just one time. I just want to be sure. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  4. I'm sorry, but I'm not really understanding the Gussest Rows. When you say "knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn" do you mean actually knit (not following the pattern) putting 14 stitches on your first dpn?

    ReplyDelete
  5. This is a continuation of the above. Then you write Complete row 3, knit until end of round. I take it that you are to pick up the pattern to finish each row, but I'm just not understanding this.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi again!

      I tried my best to make the gusset for this pattern fit each different size without having to rewrite it three times, which is why my instructions refer back to the original pattern rows. Basically, you're just knitting every new stitch you add in the gusset, and continuing to work all of your original stitches in your four-row pattern. Therefore, when I say to knit until you have 14 stitches left, all I'm trying to say is to knit all new stitches, and then resume your original pattern row once you're back to your original stitches. The same thing goes for the end of the pattern - again, you'll be knitting all of the stitches once you've completed working your original 44 stitches in pattern (since it sounds like you're making a large). I hope that helps! :)

      Delete
    2. I am still trying to figure this out. The knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn is throwing me off. From what you wrote I'm interrupting it that I am continuing to follow the four row pattern and that at the beginning I'll be knitting the added stitches along with the k2 that starts off each row in the pattern. Then I'll be knitting the added stitches that are added in the row. Meaning I'll be "knitting" extra stitches at the end of the rows. Thus the added stitches at the beginning and the added stitches towards the end will all be in stockinet pattern. Does this make sense? If need be could you call me on my cell (502) 550-4798? Thanks.

      Delete
    3. Another thing. How do you keep from getting a hole when you m1?

      Delete
    4. Hi again!

      Unfortunately I've got a sick kid home from school today so it's hard to get on the phone (since I get yelled at!!!). However, I definitely think you have the right idea. :) You'll be adding extra stitches at the beginning of your first needle and at the end of your third needle, so the thumb will end up being basically centered around your row break. After you complete your gusset set-up rows, you should have 15 stitches on your first needle (since you already completed a m1r on your first needle in the set up). So, you should knit 1 (your added stitch), and then complete the full pattern row, which covers exactly 44 stitches (and begins with that k2 instruction. When you add stitches on your first needle, they will always happen right before that k2). On the first time you knit gusset row 1, that will cover all of your stitches, since you should have 45 on your needles at that point. When you reach gusset row 1 again, you'll have 17 stitches on your first needle and 16 on your third, so you'll have more added stitches to knit in stockinette before and after you complete your pattern row (since you're right, the thumb is completed in stockinette).

      As far as holes when you make your stitches - sometimes I get little ones, but they usually disappear as you keep working. I like this page for m1r/m1l instructions: http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/92-how-to/1046-make-1-left-or-right-m1-m1l-m1r

      At any rate, I really hope that helps. Let me know! :)

      Delete
  6. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'll get back to knitting tonight. I'm sorry about your sick child. I hope they are feeling better. Though night time can seem worse. I hope the fall weekend goes well for you and your family.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Don't worry, he's not very sick, just not well enough to go to school. And I think that you have the right idea; if you just muscle through the instructions I think it will all start to make sense! :)

      Delete
  7. Another question - You write knit until one inch from "thumb break". What do you mean by thumb break? Is this where you slipped a total of 17 stitches to a yarn holder?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, that's exactly what I mean! Those stitches will become your thumb. :)

      Delete
  8. I do not understand gusset row 1. I am working on a 9" circular needle.
    I am not understanding how to knit this gusset row 1. Thankyou

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there!

      If you tell me which size you're making I can write it out explicitly for you. If, on the other hand, you're just worried that the directions are written for dpns and not circulars, you can just go ahead and place markers where your dpn ends would be. Then you can keep your count straight and continue on your circulars! :)

      Delete
  9. Thank you for your prompt response. I am making a size medium. I would love it if you could write out the directions for me. Thank you so very much!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi again!

      At this point, you've only added one stitch to your pattern. Therefore, gusset row 1 will look like:

      Gusset Row 1: k1 (since that's all you need to knit to have only 12 stitches left on your first dpn); then, k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round (since that's what you need to do to complete row 3 of the medium size)

      Let me know if you have any more questions! :)

      Delete
    2. Thank you again. I ended up putting markers as if I were using the dpn's based on your suggestion. This is helping but I have only finished gusset row. 1-4 once. I hope I get the right amount of stitches on dpn 1 and 3 to put on the scrap yarn.
      Thank you again for your help!

      Delete
    3. Keep working at it and let me know if you have any more problems! I am happy to help. :)

      Delete
  10. Hi Gretchen, Andrea from Boise... I also would like to knit these gloves on circulars instead of DPN's. I have reviewed your emails and think I have it, but do you have any suggestions with regard to this pattern by working in circulars vs double pointed needles?... I may have to switch to ADP N to do the thumb gusset, but any suggestions you may have will be appreciated... Meaning any area I may encounter a problem. I also will be knitting medium, but hope to knit a large at a later time once I get the pattern down. Thank you for your kind assistance and sharing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Andrea!

      My only real advice for knitting on circulars instead is to place stitch markers where the ends of the dpns would be, since I often count in relation to the ends. Other than that, things should work out! And, as always, let me know if you have any more questions. :)

      Delete
  11. Gretchen, I need to thank you for making my Christmas gifting so easy this year. I made a pair for my husband earlier this year, and he loves them so much (and wears them almost daily in the cold mornings and evenings) that I decided to make a pair for all of the men in my life. I just finished making my 3rd pair, and only have 1 more pair to go. These are beautiful, quick to make, and I know will be appreciated. Thank you again with all of my heart.

    Julie Whetzel (Silverado CA)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yay!!!! I'm so glad to hear that they're getting so much use and love!!! :) Thanks for sharing!

      Delete
  12. Hi Gretchen, just finished the ribbing and starting row 1 size large. I have 44 stitches. So when the pattern says p1 k2 p1 til end of round, by my math I will be ending the first row with the k2 and not the p1; is this correct? Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Andrew!

      Actually, you only (p1, k1, p1) once, and then knit until the end of the round. Does that make sense? Also, let me know if you have any other questions! :)

      Delete
  13. Also, using size 6 as opposed to size 7 which is 22 stitches = 4 inches so I am
    Not sure if I need to adjust the pattern.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi again!

      So the gauge is always a tricky question - I give the needles I use, and the gauge of course, so that you know how many stitches I'm getting per inch, and what to aim for. Some people might get the same gauge working on a different needle size; if that's the case, they should work on different needles than I used, since gauge is more important than needle size.

      All of that being said, if you didn't swatch (no judgement!) and aren't sure of your gauge, but you're typically a package-gauge knitter (not a tight knitter or a loose knitter), I don't think that being off by one needle size on this project is going to affect your finished size very much unless you're knitting for someone with HUGE hands and you were worried they might not fit the mitts in the first place. Just make sure to leave your yarn loose behind your slipped stitches and you should be good to go! :)

      Delete
  14. Oh geez I misread the pattern! Thanks for getting right back to me. Another question: slip 1 wyib, is that slip knitwise or purl wise?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. On my site you can always assume purlwise if I don't say otherwise; this is because a knitwise slip twists the stitch (although I have been trying to be better about specifying on my newer patterns). :)

      Delete
  15. Hello, I knitting size large and have gotten to the end gusset set-up row 2, I'm confused what does the (+ 1 stitch) after k3 mean? At the begining of the row I did the m1r and that stitch is on needle one, am I to make another stitch the end of the row? Or knit that new stitch from M1r onto my needle 3?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! It just means that you've added one stitch to the row, your m1r from the beginning (I include the number of stitches you've added at the end of each row, just to reiterate that you've changed stitch count). Long story short, you don't have to do anything with that information! And let me know if you have any more questions!!! :)

      Delete
    2. Thank you so much, you responded so quickly. I'm new to knitting this is my first project like this.

      Delete
    3. Well I always like to hear that people are trying new things! And I hope everything goes smoothly, but again, let me know if you need any more help!!! :)

      Delete
    4. This part of the pattern tripped me up as well, but I scrolled down and found this answer. I think it might help others if you wrote that into the pattern... because it does seem like you are asking to add another stitch.

      Love all your patterns! Thank you so much for this site!

      Delete
  16. Help! I’m doing something wrong...I’ve made the right mitt TWICE and still come out with a left mitt. Followed the instructions step by step but I must be missing something somewhere.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hmm... just out of curiosity; since I begin with the instructions for the left mitt, did you skip past it and start with the right, or did you follow both sets of instructions (first for the left, then for the right), and end up with two exactly alike??? Either way, I can't see how you'd get two matching mitts if you follow each set of instructions separately... Is there any chance you've got it backwards, with the slipped stitch portion towards the top and the sailor's rib texture at the palm? I'm sorry I can't be more help, but I really can't imagine what could have gone wrong! :)

      Delete
  17. I did them in order...left first then continued to the right. Could it be where I remove the gusset stitches and pick up the pattern for the hand? Is it possible to go in the wrong direction?

    ReplyDelete
  18. Oops...I meant I have two left mitts.....I did the right mitt second, but it is left facing when done. I actually tore it out and started again and it still came out as a left patterned mitt.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ugh, I think I know what happened! I just remembered that I rewrote this pattern recently, and although of course I double-checked everything at the time it looks like I got row 3 of the main pattern rows AFTER the gusset wrong for the medium size - is this, perhaps, the one you're making? And does the pattern look *almost* the same, but not really? If so, I think that's the trouble. Anyway, I'll fix it, and I apologize so much for the confusion!

      Delete
    2. YES! I'm doing it a third time for a size medium and row 3 is where I'm getting hung up! Thank you for reviewing it for me. :)

      Delete
    3. Thank you so much....love the pattern! :)

      Delete
    4. Ahhhhhhh! Well I'm glad we found it! And again, I really apologize!!!

      Delete
  19. Replies
    1. Of course! Try the green Printfriendly button between the pictures and the comments. :)

      Delete
  20. Hi! I am attempting this, in a size large, using the magic loop. This is my first project like this and am sure I'm reading/doing something wrong. I had 44 stitches until the gusset set up row which gave me 45 (with the +1). Now I'm at the Gusset row 2 which seems to require much more than 45 stitches. What am I doing wrong?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there!

      I understand how this can seem tricky, but it's just because the row is written in a way that continues to work as the mitt gets bigger. :)

      Here's what the row looks like:

      GR2: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l)

      And here's exactly how you should work it for the first time:

      GR2: k1 (since that's all the stitches you have added so far), m1r, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, m1l

      That is your 45 stitches, plus two new ones. In essence, you keep working the same pattern you always have in the middle, and knit your new thumb stitches.

      Hope that helps! And let me know if you have any other questions! :)

      Delete
  21. Thank you for your reply! After posting my question, I decided to transfer to dpn to see if I could figure it out. Which I did. My mistake was not using markers on the circular needle. I just couldn't wrap my head around it. So now when I make the right glove, I can use the circular needles and use the stitch markers! I knew I had to be doing something wrong since no one else seemed to have this problem lol. Again, thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you figured it out! And I'm always happy to help. :)

      Delete
  22. Hi, Gretchen, I don't know if my request arrived. I would like very much to have the updated pattern, with the two markers for the gusset (thumb). I am knitting size M and I have the same difficulties as others with all the rows folowing the first 4 rows. Maby thanks in advance. This textured pattern is very nice and I would like to finish the piece with the accurate indications. Silvia

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Silvia!

      I have updated this pattern once; unfortunately, because there are two different textures (one for the back and one for the palm), it's simply a bit trickier to follow. You could always place markers to distinguish the two sections, if that helps you out. Otherwise, the instructions are definitely accurate and should yield the correct result. :)

      Delete
  23. Many thanks Gretchen, I'll try again with markers to distinguish the two sections🎵🎶

    ReplyDelete
  24. Hello Gretchen - I am having trouble with this instruction:

    knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn

    Is "my first dpn" the one that has the first set of stitches of that round or the working needle I use when I start that round? Thanks for any help you can give me!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there! It's the one holding the stitches, so your needle that has the first set of stitches in the round. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

      Delete
  25. Thank you! I realized that some stitches had migrated to a different needle so I started over and made sure the counts stayed the same, and now the instruction makes sense and I am on my way. Cheers!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wonderful! Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

      Delete
  26. Hi Gretchen! Thank you so much for this lovely pattern. I’m currently making a pair for my boyfriend and I can’t wait to finish them! One question though - would it be possible for me to add half-fingers? This is my first time making gloves, and I’m not sure how to add half-fingers. I was thinking of looking at another pattern with fingers and trying to adapt the pattern a bit, but I was wondering if you would have any tips on adding fingers that would work well with the pattern.

    Rowena

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there!

      I am too lazy for fingers, so I don't have any personal suggestions. 🤣 However, I suggest looking on Ravelry to see if you can find a pattern with fingers and a similar stitch count... Then you can use it to adapt this pattern the way you want!

      Delete
  27. Alright, thanks! I just watched a few YouTube videos on knitting gloves with fingers and I've realized that it's as simple as separating the stitches, making sure there are no gaps between the fingers, knitting up the fingers individually, and binding off. So I was overthinking things 😆 It's because these are my first pair of gloves ever and I really don't want to mess them up. I might knit the fingers in a k1 p1 pattern to match the thumb then. Thanks again!

    Rowena

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You're ahead of me then! 😅 Glad you figured everything out, hope they turn out well!!!

      Delete
  28. Hi Gretchen! Rowena here again (I previously asked you about adding fingers to the pattern). I'm also working on a hat concurrently and I recently realized that the hat wasn't turning out the way it should've based on photos on Ravelry of finished objects. As it turns out, since I'm a continental combined knitter, I had been twisting the stitches and doing the whole thing wrong, since apparently continental combined knitting is different in the round. What had tripped me up in the hat pattern was that it called for a twisted rib for the brim (k1-tbl, p1), and since knitting through the back loop is just how I normally do knit stitches, I knitted through the front loop for the k1-tbl stitches instead. I only learned a few days ago that continental combined knitters should work stitches differently when working in the round: do purl stitches as I normally do as a continental combined knitter, but work knit stitches through the front loop instead of through the back loop as I normally do, which means that I should knit through the back loop when a pattern says to in order to intentionally twist a stitch. Which means... I was working the gloves wrong the entire time and now I have to frog and start over, since I was working the k1-tbl stitches through the front loop instead, and doing my regular knit stitches through the back loop as per usual. Before I start the gloves all over again though, I wanted to ask if it would be possible to do a 2x2 twisted rib for the gloves instead of the normal 2x2 rib. Of course, I had already done a 2x2 twisted rib for the glove I was working on since knitting through the back loop is normal for me, but I wanted to ask if you would know if doing a twisted rib would mess up the rest of the pattern before I decide to do so. I just prefer the way it looks to a regular rib stitch, and I've heard that it's a bit more elastic than a normal rib. I just don't want it to interfere with the rest of the pattern since I really don't want to mess up again!
    Thanks and sorry for bothering you again,

    Rowena

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Rowena!

      I am very firmly of the belief that patterns should be modified according to taste, so I strongly encourage you to use a twisted stitch ribbing instead! It will affect the finished look, of course, but it certainly won't cause any problems! :)

      Delete
    2. Yay, thanks! I'm still a beginner when it comes to knitting, so I'm just paranoid about small things.

      Rowena

      Delete
  29. Hello Gretchen! I have a question. When the pattern says "Knit across first 8 (8; 9) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and final 7 (7; 8) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb," does this mean that only the first 9 stitches from the first needle need to be knitted across and the final 8 stitches do not need to be knitted across before they are transferred to the scrap yarn? I am making a size large. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! Yes, that's correct, you won't notice, I promise! I do that so you don't have to clip your yarn. But if you'd rather you can clip your yarn and transfer both sets of stitches without knitting either though! Then you can rejoin and keep going. :)

      Delete
    2. Okay, thank you so much!

      Delete
  30. Hello! I am having trouble understanding this row:Row 2: (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times. Why is the k1 tbl in separate parenthesis? Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am just establishing my terminology by saying that, in future rows, I won't write out knit 1 through back loop, I'll call it k1-tbl. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

      Delete
  31. Hi Gretchen, I made the medium size must and ended up with an extra stitch at each side of the thumb. I just added 1 to the scrap yarn and knit two together on the other side (left mitt). On the right mitt I added 1 stitch to the

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sounds like you handled it perfectly! Hope the gloves turned out well! :)

      Delete
  32. Hi Gretchen, I just knit the medium size mitts and ended up with an extra stitch on each side of the thumb on both mitts. I had the right stitch count where it says to add 8 stitches to 1st needle and 7 stitches to 3rd needle. On the row where you join the thumb I had 2extra. I added an extra stitch to the scrap yarn on one side of the thumb and k2tog on the other side. I don't think I did anything wrong but you never know. I finished my mitts so don't need a response. This is just an FYI. Also,where it says if you ended after a row 4 start at Row 3 in the next section, mine look like there is an extra row of knit in the patterned part. I wish I could show you a picture. That being said, I love these mitts and intend to knit a few more. Is there a matching hat? I would definitely knit that too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! There's definitely a hat pattern hiding somewhere in the comments... Otherwise I *think* the pattern is correctly written based on how many people have made it, although of course I do make mistakes sometimes.

      Glad to hear that your gloves turned out well though! :)

      Delete
  33. Size large - “Work gusset rows 1 - 4 until you've added 8 (8; 9) extra stitches to your first needle and 7 (7; 8) to your third” - counting only gusset rows I end up with 9 new stitches on each end. If I include the first-needle added stitch from gusset row setup, then I can achieve 9 new on first needle and 8 on third. Otherwise, it’s always going to be the same number of new on first and third. Thank you for all your hard work!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! Yes, you do include the stitch you added in the set-up rows in this count, and you're correct that you wouldn't have a different number of new stitches on your first and third needles otherwise. Let me know if you have any other questions. :)

      Delete
  34. Gretchen, I am attempting to make these again as I really like the look, but -sorry making size med. pg 4 Gusset Set Up Row 2 (I have 41 st in total 13-16-13, the las dpn i do not have enough stitches to p4, k1 (k1, slip 1 wyib)9 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round. I have no clue what I am doing wrong .

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there! Based on your comment, it looks like you're actually on gusset row 2, which reads as follows:

      Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l)

      Going through this step by step, once you knit until you have 12 left, etc, you should have 40 stitches left (since you'll only be knitting one the first time around). After m1r, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, you'll have 24 left. The p4, k1 brings you down to 19 left and the (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1 takes care of all of those, leaving you nothing to do but the m1r.

      Is it possible you're knitting too many stitches in the beginning? :)

      Delete
    2. I knitted 12 stitches on 1st dpn and m1r, 2nd dpn k1, (pr, k1-tbl) 3 times, 3rd dpn _ I did p4, k1 (k1, slip 1 wyib)4 times and I am out of stitches. At this beginning of this Gusset Row my total knit count was 40 stitches. I inc 1 so I now have a total of 41 st. From what you are saying I am gathering I should have more stitches?

      Delete
    3. Hi! It sounds like you just have the first instruction wrong. :) It's not knit 12, it's knit until you have 12 stitches left on the first needle. So the first time you do the instruction, you'll only knit 1 (the second time you'll knit 2, etc).

      Delete
    4. Gretchen, thank you so much. I definitely was reading this wrong and had just figured out. I am excited to move forward. Deb.

      Delete
    5. Great, let me know if you have any other questions! :)

      Delete
  35. Working on fingerless gloves. I’ve tried Medium Gusset Setup Row 2 three times and I never have a stitch to knit at the end. What am I missing?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! It sounds like you're doing it right - that's why I've tried to clarify that there's no extra stitch to knit at the end on your first repeat (there will be on the following repeats however). Hope that helps! :)

      Delete
    2. Please forgive me, I’m still confused! So, I should just end with the ninth (k1, slip 1 wyib) and ignore the k1 after that? If I count the stitches for that row, there are 22 stitches before the repeated (k2, slip 1 wyib), or 18 more, accounting for all 40 stitches on my dpns. Therefore, I have nothing left after the ninth repeat.

      Delete
    3. Oh, I just realized that I was looking at the gusset rows, not the gusset set-up rows, which is probably how I confused you. Apologies! Anyway, Gusset Set-up Row 2 reads like this: m1r, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1 (+1 stitch)

      The m1r is a new stitch in that row, so you can't count it as part of the 40 original stitches (since it's the 41st). That means that there are only 21 of the original stitches before the (k1, slip 1 wyib) repetition, and you should be able to complete the remaining 19 stitches afterwards. I can't tell you exactly where you're going wrong, but if you simply can't find the problem, I suggest that you just add a stitch somewhere where it's the least noticeable!

      Delete
    4. Thank you so much! I’m probably a beginning intermediate, so I’m finding this a little daunting. Onward!

      Delete
    5. Yes this pattern is a bit complicated with the different textures and whatnot... But please let me know if you have any more questions!

      Delete
    6. ZHello again, thanks to your help, I’m getting through this! But I think I have one last question. I hope it’s the last. I have just put the gusset stitches on a yarn scrap, and the instructions say if I finished the gusset at row 2 to begin with row 1. I did that but the pattern looks wrong, like there are 2 “flat” rows when there should be “bumps,” if that makes sense? I feel like I should have continued with a row 3 in order to follow the pattern appearance. What am I missing?

      Delete
    7. Hello! I understand what you're saying - it sounds like you're off pattern! If you finished with row two of the gusset, however, that *should* correspond with row 4 of the regular pattern, which would make row 1 of the regular pattern the correct place to start next. But if that's not looking right then definitely adjust! I would recommend ripping back to where you're sure things look right and make note of the pattern on that row. Then just make sure you're starting with the next pattern row based on what you've just knit, not necessarily the instructions, if that makes any sense.

      Delete
    8. I’m getting pretty good at ripping out stitches!😂 You are so prompt to answer, and I appreciate it. Have a great night!

      Delete
    9. Yeah ripping isn't fun, so I'm sorry for that! But hopefully it helps you sort things out at least! Have a good night as well. :)

      Delete