Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Twilled Stripe Hat

Twilled Stripe Hat

There's no doubt about it: I fell in love with this Twilled Stripe stitch pattern the first time I used it, in the Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers. But when I got the idea for this hat, which uses a combination of Twilled Stripes and dropped stitches, I thought that the combo might add a new dimension to the stripes. And, indeed, this slouchy hat gives the stitch pattern a whole different look. Not that it wouldn't still match the arm warmers...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #8906 Blue Topaz - one skein

A closer view
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 7 (optional but recommended: one 20" or 24" circular needle in size 7)
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

So let's get this thing going! Before we start, I should point out that the magic doesn't really happen with this hat until you start dropping stitches, so don't worry if it just looks like an oversized rib at first. And now that the disclaimer has been issued, let's begin! Using your size 5 circular needle, cast on 108 stitches, place in marker, and join in round. Then, we'll knit the following ribbing row.

Ribbing row: * p1, k2; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row 6 times and switch to your size 7 16" circular needle. Now it's time to move on to the main pattern, which is a combination of Twilled Stripe from page 147 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and some stitches we'll drop later. There's only one notation note, which goes a little something like this:

Left Twist (lt): skip 1 stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop, then slip the skipped stitch purlwise onto right-hand needle, then slide the knit stitch off of the needle as well

And now that the ribbing is complete and we have our notation down, let's knit one set-up row and then begin the pattern! So first, we'll knit this bad boy:

Set-Up Row: * p1, yo, k5, yo *

And then we'll proceed as follows. If you're going to switch to a longer needle (and you'll soon realize why you'd want to), do it when you're about a half of a pattern repeat into the design.

Row 1: * p2, lt, k3, p1 *

Row 2, 4, 6, & 8: * p2, k5, p1 *

Row 3: * p2, k1, lt, k2, p1 *

Row 5: * p2, k2, lt, k1, p1 *

Row 7: * p2, k3, lt, p1 *

Knit rows 1 - 8 three times, and then we'll begin our decreases. If you switched to a longer needle, you'll want to switch back to your size 7 16" right away. Also, when you hit the dropped stitches, you don't have to unravel them right away. It may be easier to go back and do that once the hat is finished, if you can stand the suspense of waiting!

Decrease row 1: * p2, ssk, k1, k2tog, p3, lt, k3, p1 *

Decrease rows 2 & 4: * p2, k3, p3, k5, p1 *

Decrease row 3: * p2, k3, p3, k1, lt, k2, p1 *

Decrease row 5: * p2, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso, p3, k2, lt, k1, p1 *

Decrease rows 6 & 8: * p2, k1, p3, k5, p1 *

Decrease row 7: * p2, k1, p3, k3, lt, p1 *

Decrease row 9: * p2, k1, p3, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1 *

Decrease row 10: * p2, k1, p3, k3, p1 *

You're going to want to switch to your dpns about now, if you haven't already...

Decrease row 11: * p1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row, k1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row, p2, k3, p1 *

Decrease row 12: * p1, k1, p2, k3, p1 *

Decrease row 13:  * p1, k1, p2, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso, p1 *

Decrease row 14: * p1, k1, p2, k1, p1 *

Decrease row 15: * p3tog, p1, k1, p1 *

Decrease row 16: * p2, k1, p1 *

Decrease row 17: * p1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row, k1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row

Decrease row 18: * p1, k1 *

Decrease row 19: * k2tog *

Clip tail, thread through final 9 stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.





33 comments:

  1. This hat is really pretty and different! I like it!

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    1. Thanks! I'm glad to hear you like it - I'm always trying to come up with fresh designs, so I'm happy when they work out :)

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  2. Wow! How pretty! Love it and need it! :) The difference of your design makes me wish to knit it for this winter!!! ;)

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    1. I'm glad to hear you like it :) I try to knit lots of different shapes, for variety! I also think this may be a good hat for someone with a lot of hair...

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  3. Are you using mm needles?

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    1. Hi! Good question. But no; I use US sizing. Hope that helps :)

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  4. What yarn can be substituted for Cascade?

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    1. Any worsted weight wool should be fine... the gauge is far more important than the brand :)

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  5. Wow! Everything on your site is incredibly gorgeous! I just started knitting a week or two and can't wait to try out some of your patterns once I become a bit more experienced!

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    1. Hi Emily!

      Thanks for your kind comment :) And if there's ever a project you want to try out or have questions about, don't hesitate to ask! I was a beginner once too, you know, and I am always happy to help.

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  6. What size needles were used establish gauge: (size 5 or size 7) or better stated the smaller or larger size needles?

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    1. Oops! Sorry about that. Size 7. I'll be more clear above :)

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  7. Hi there,
    I'm having a bit of trouble with the part of the pattern that says "switch to larger needles." When you say that, do you mean just do a regular knit stitch onto the larger needle, or do you mean to start the set-up row as you are switching? I'm a relatively new knitter and this is my first hat, so I don't want to mess up!

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    1. Hello Anna!

      Really, you can do either. Sometimes I transfer all my stitches to the larger needle by simply slipping them, sometimes I knit them in pattern as I go. As a newish knitter, though, I might slip them rather than knit them. Less chance to lose some off the end of your circular. :) And please, let me know if you have any other questions.

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  8. Hi Gretchen,
    Another question: on the even rows (p2, k5, p1) , do you treat the left twist stitches as one stitch? I've been noticing that I've picked up stitches when I go to knit the odd rows, and I thought it might be because I've been knitting as individuals the two stitches paired in the left twist....
    Thanks so much for your help.

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    1. Hello again!

      First off - the two stitches in the left twist should always be treated as two stitches, so it sounds like you're doing that part correctly! Other than the set-up row, however, you shouldn't be adding any additional stitches to this pattern. This pattern repeats every 8 stitches, so if you keep having trouble with it, you can always place a bunch of extra stitch markers, one after every pattern repeat. This may help you identify where you're going wrong. :)

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  9. I am trying to help Anna work on this beautiful hat. After doing the ribbing she ended up with 105 stitches, though none were dropped, so she somehow had one fewer repeats of the rib pattern. I thought we could continue that way with one fewer repeats. However, the next question is, how many stitches should
    result after the yarn over row? I calculated that it would be 144 stitches or 18 sets of the 8 st pattern repeat. Is this correct?

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    1. Hello!

      Yes, your calculations are correct. :) Please let me know if you have any other questions!

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  10. Hello again Gretchen!

    First of all, thank you SO MUCH for all of your help and advice so far; I put markers in my work and immediately stopped adding stitches. Finally I have reached the decreasing rows, but I think I may have found a typo in the pattern: on row 5 the pattern instructs you to drop two of your fourteen stitches per pattern repeat, which leaves you with 12 stitches per pattern repeat for rows 6-8. But, on row 9, the pattern repeat is designed for 13 stitches. If this is a typo and if I am supposed to have 12 stitches per pattern repeat, which part of the pattern should I modify to make it for 12 stitches?

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    1. Oops--I know what I did wrong! Instead of doing a slip-sip-knit I was doing a double decrease, thus dropping two of my stitches instead of just one. Thanks anyway!

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    2. Glad you figured it out! But I definitely do sometimes make mistakes, and I always appreciate it when people let me know (you know, for next time). :)

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  11. Can I use ordinary needles in place of circular needles

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    1. Hi there!

      The pattern would need to be converted for flat knitting in order to make it with straight needles, and would probably have a more obvious seam due to the hat's design. Let me know if you'd like help with the conversion! :)

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  12. If i use the 108 stitches will it fit my head? It doesnt look like it will!

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    1. The design of this hat adds stitches in order to have a very full look (and then unravels them for the dropped stitches). You can cast on 12 less and still have things work out with the decrease, if you'd prefer, but either way the only part that will fit tightly in the end is the ribbing! :)

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  13. Ok here is my problem. I worked the set-up row and ended up with 144 sts. I believe that is correct. Then I proceeded with Row 1. *p2, lt, k3, p1 * When I get to the end of that row I should end of with a p1. Well that did not work. I was short a stitch. So I decided to check out Row 2, but I did not have enough stitches to complete that row. Is there a typo somewhere that I missed. Please help. I really like this hat. Thanks

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    1. Hi there! First of all, it sounds like you have things set up correctly - you should have 144 stitches after the set up row, and you do. Then, since the main pattern contains 8 stitches repeated and 144 is divisible by 8, things should work out at the end of the row. Unfortunately, my best guess is that you simply missed a stitch somewhere and may have to rip back or examine things closely to see where it happened. Wish I had a less work-intensive answer for you, though! :)

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  14. Hi Gretchen! This pattern is amazing! I just finished knitting it and to my surprise it really did turn out as close as I could ever imagine to your pictures :-) Thank you soooo much for sharing your wonderful creativity. Your patterns are addictive( I couldn't stop till I finished it :D) but in a good way and this one really kept me in suspense till the very last unravelled stitch, which in itself was a fun thing to do thinking back on all the counting aloud for the yo to make sure I didn't mess it all up, plus I didn't read that part of the pattern until I got there as I was curious how come for once dropping off stitches is safe :-) Again...a sincere thanks and please keep creating mesmerizing patterns...when you have time :-) PS: I think I should move to a country with long winters to keep up with my reignited hobby.

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    1. Hi! I'm so glad to hear you liked this pattern. And yeah - it's one that's pretty hard to imagine working until you actually get to that point!!! Also, I totally support your long-winter theory. Nothing better than watching the snow outside while you knit with a hot cup of tea!!! :)

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  15. Hi Gretchen
    Can you kindly share this with straight needles.
    Rachna

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    1. Here you go! I'm not sure how the seam is going to look, but otherwise this should work!

      Using your size 5 needle, cast on 110 stitches. Then we'll knit the following ribbing rows.

      Ribbing row 1 (wrong side): p1, * p2, k1; rep from *, end p1

      Ribbing row 2 (right side): k1, * p1, k2; rep from *, end k1

      Knit these ribbing rows 3 times and switch to your size 7 needle. Then we’ll knit one set-up row and then begin the pattern! So first, we'll knit this bad boy:

      Set-Up Row (wrong side): p1, * yo, p5, yo, k1; rep from *, end p1

      And then we'll proceed as follows.

      Row 1 (right side): k1, * p2, lt, k3, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Row 2, 4, 6, & 8: p1, * k1, p5, k2, rep from *, end p1

      Row 3: k1, * p2, k1, lt, k2, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Row 5: k1, * p2, k2, lt, k1, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Row 7: k1, * p2, k3, lt, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Knit rows 1 - 8 three times, and then we'll begin our decreases. When you hit the dropped stitches, you don't have to unravel them right away. It may be easier to go back and do that once the hat is finished, if you can stand the suspense of waiting!

      Decrease row 1 (right side): k1, * p2, ssk, k1, k2tog, p3, lt, k3, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease rows 2 & 4: p1, * k1, p5, k3, p3, k2; rep from *, end p1

      Decrease row 3: k1, * p2, k3, p3, k1, lt, k2, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease row 5: k1, * p2, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso, p3, k2, lt, k1, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease rows 6 & 8: p1, * k1, p5, k3, p1, k2, rep from *, end p1

      Decrease row 7: k1, * p2, k1, p3, k3, lt, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease row 9: k1, * p2, k1, p3, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease row 10: p1, * k1, p3, k3, p1, k2, rep from *, end p1

      Decrease row 11: k1, * p1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row, k1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row, p2, k3, p1; rep from *, k1

      Decrease row 12: p1, * k1, p3, k2, p1, k1; rep from *, end p1

      Decrease row 13: k1, * p1, k1, p2, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease row 14: p1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k1; rep from *, end p1

      Decrease row 15: k1, * p3tog, p1, k1, p1; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease row 16: p1, * k1, p1, k2; rep from *, end p1

      Decrease row 17: k1, * p1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row, k1, drop next stitch from your needle and unravel it all the way down to the yo in the set-up row; rep from *, end k1

      Decrease row 18: p1, * p1, k1; rep from *, end p1

      Decrease row 19: k1, * k2tog; rep from *, end k1

      Clip tail, thread through final 11 stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Seam from bottom and tuck in ends.

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