Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Eiffel Tower Eyelet Cowl

Eiffel Tower Eyelet Cowl

So, there's not too much I need to explain about this cowl, except that it accomplishes the impossible; it makes me love both a purl-background fabric and the freakin' garter stitch, which I typically avoid like the plague (and yes, it's completely irrational how much I dislike garter stitch. I apologize to those of you who love it). It's also a simple enough design to look good with a variegated yarn, although I imagine it would pop even more with a single-color fiber. Anyway, let's cut the chitchat and head to the pattern instead!

A detail shot. See the tiny towers???
Yarn: Berroco Boboli Lace (42% Wool, 35% Acrylic, 23% Viscose; 350 yards [320 meters]/100 grams); #4366 Fondant - one skein

Needles: 24" circular needle in size 6, 20" circular needle in size 6

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started! First, then, using your 24" needle, cast on 192 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. And now, we'll work the bottom border, which is Swiss Ribbing from page 340 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. Or in knitting terms, let's begin like so:

Rows 1 - 4: * k3, p3; rep from *

Rows 5 & 6: * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), k1, p3 *

Row 7: * p1, k1-tbl, p4 *

Row 8: * p1, k1, p4 *

Rows 9 & 10: * p1, slip 1 wyib, p4 *

Row 11: repeat row 7

Row 12: p30, place marker, p132, place marker, purl until end of round

And now, let's begin to incorporate our main pattern, which is Eiffel Tower Eyelet from page 248 of the same volume. And we'll start like so:

Row 1: knit until first marker, slip marker, and then * p4, yo, p2tog * until second marker, slip marker, and knit until end of round

Rows 2, 4, & 6: purl until you're two stitches before first marker, p2tog, slip marker; then, * p4, k1, p1 * until second marker, slip marker, p2tog, and purl until end of round (-2 stitches)

Rows 3 & 5: knit until first marker, slip marker, and then * p4, k1, p1 * until second marker, slip marker, and knit until end of round

Row 7:  knit until first marker, slip marker, and then * p1, yo, p2tog, p3 * until second marker, slip marker, and knit until end of round

Rows 8, 10, & 12: purl until you're two stitches before first marker, p2tog, slip marker; then, * p1, k1, p4 * until second marker, slip marker, p2tog, and purl until end of round (-2 stitches)

Rows 9 & 11: knit until first marker, slip marker, and then * p1, k1, p4 * until second marker, slip marker, and knit until end of round

Knit rows 1 - 12 once, and then we'll add more decreases to the pattern. Or in knitting terms, we'll continue as follows. Oh, and remember to switch to your shorter circular needle whenever the need arises.

Row 1: knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, and then * p4, yo, p2tog * until second marker, slip marker, ssk, and knit until end of round (-2 stitches)

Rows 2, 4, & 6: purl until you're two stitches before first marker, p2tog, slip marker; then, * p4, k1, p1 * until second marker, slip marker, p2tog, and purl until end of round (-2 stitches)

Rows 3 & 5: knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, and then * p4, k1, p1 * until second marker, slip marker, ssk, and knit until end of round (-2 stitches)

Row 7: knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, and then * p1, yo, p2tog, p3 * until second marker, slip marker, ssk, and knit until end of round (-2 stitches)

Rows 8, 10, & 12: purl until you're two stitches before first marker, p2tog, slip marker; then, * p1, k1, p4 * until second marker, slip marker, p2tog, and purl until end of round (-2 stitches)

Rows 9 & 11: knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, and then * p1, k1, p4 * until second marker, slip marker, ssk, and knit until end of round (-2 stitches)

Knit rows 1 - 12 once, and then knit rows 1 - 11 again, removing your extra markers when you reach row 11. Then, you'll be knitting this alternate row in place of row 12:

Alternate Row 12: p2tog, k1, p3, * p2, k1, p3 * until you're two stitches from row marker; end p2tog

And now it's time to move on to our top edging, which goes as follows:

Edging Rows 1 & 2: * p4, k1, p1 *

Edging Rows 3 & 4: * p4, slip 1 wyib, p1 *

Edging Rows 5 - 7: * p3, k3 *

Knit these seven edging rows, and then bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends. Block, if you're so inclined.




18 comments:

  1. Ahhh -these colors! They almost look jewel-like!
    It is odd - because I have seen patterns lately where they talk about hating to purl. And I don't dislike purling at all! I'd much rather knit and purl - because garter stitch alone can get a little mind-numbing - LOL!

    Linda in VA

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That is funny! And I don't hate to purl, per se - I just don't love the look of a purled fabric (and garter I dislike even more). I guess it just took this pattern for me to believe they have their place!!!

      Delete
  2. I do have to say tho - after purling 140 stitches for two rows last night - my hands were cramping up - LOL! And I wasn't liking that purl stitch so much!

    Linda in VA

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I guess you can have too much of a good thing! :)

      Delete
  3. I also have an irrational dislike of garter stitch. I like your pattern though, and I think I'll try it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm glad I'm not the only one! But I really like the Eiffel Tower Eyelet stitch, which definitely helps :)

      Delete
  4. Once again, I popped into a wonderful pattern from my free-knitting site. It ALWAYS pleases me when I see your name on top! ALWAYS!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi Gretchen, I love this design. Can you tell me if there is a way to make this cowl shorter around or would that take away from the style of it? I suppose with the change in the pattern in the back, that might be difficult. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, you totally can! :) Would you prefer to preserve the back shaping, or just do a tube with the Eiffel Tower pattern?

      Delete
  6. Great! So I guess, I'll go with the one that is easier-probably the tube with Eiffel Tower pattern (though the shaping if very unique). Thank you so much!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi again!

      So you're basically just going to need to cast on a multiple of 6 stitches in order to make this pattern in a tube - if you're aiming for, say, 22" around, you'll want to cast on 132 stitches (obviously you can cast on more or less depending on the size you're going for, as long as it's a multiple of 6). Join in round. And then for the bottom ribbing you'll work like so:

      Rows 1 - 4: * k3, p3 *

      Rows 5 & 6: * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), k1, p3 *

      Row 7: * p1, k1-tbl, p4 *

      Row 8: * p1, k1, p4 *

      Rows 9 & 10: * p1, slip 1 wyib, p4 *

      Row 11: repeat row 7

      Row 12: purl

      And once you've finished the ribbing, you can work the pattern as follows:

      Row 1: * p4, yo, p2tog *

      Rows 2 - 6: * p4, k1, p1 *

      Row 7: * p1, yo, p2tog, p3 *

      Rows 8 - 12: * p1, k1, p4 *

      Knit rows 1 - 12 until you're happy with the length, then complete the top edging rows as follows:

      Edging Rows 1 & 2: * p4, k1, p1 *

      Edging Rows 3 & 4: * p4, slip 1 wyib, p1 *

      Edging Rows 5 - 7: * p3, k3 *

      Bind off loosely in pattern, tuck in ends and block.

      Let me know if you have any more questions! :)

      Delete
  7. Wow! thanks for all your time with this adjustment. I really appreciate it. Looking forward to a beautiful cowl.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Great! Again, let me know if you have any questions. :)

      Delete
  8. Hi thanks for the lovely pattern. Do you have an idea how I would adapt for my 12 year old daughrter - about 4'11" - almost adult size. I also seem to have alot more worsted yarn about - could I use that for the cowl?

    thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Mary!

      Yes, you can totally use worsted and make a child size. Here are my recommendations:

      First, cast on 132 stitches instead of 192 using a 16" circular needle of whatever size you need to get roughly 18 stitches = 4 inches as gauge. Then when you reach the first row 12 (the marker placement row), substitute this:

      Row 12: p18, place marker, p96, place marker, purl until end of row.

      Then, work the first set of 1 - 12 rows exactly as written, but only work rows 1 - 11 of the second set (the set with more decreases). Then you should be able to go straight to the top ribbing and everything will work out and birds will sing (or at least that's what I'm anticipating). Let me know if you have any trouble! :)

      Delete
  9. Is there any way you can adapt this beautiful pattern for a shawlett as I really dislike the cowls (Not sure why but I also avoid turtlenecks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, the stitch pattern also works flat. Send me an email at ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com and I'll send you a quick picture of the stitch pattern, not adapted for the round. :)

      Delete